C64MidRezzie Posted August 12, 2020 Report Share Posted August 12, 2020 Can I swap a cable from an official S controller and a Duke. I can solder so was thinking I could open my Duke as the lead is snagged - still working perfectly. I was planning on cutting the wire just inside both controllers and then soldering the non frayed wires from the 'S' to the Duke. Has anyone tried this? Should I just leave well enough alone? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bolofski Posted August 12, 2020 Report Share Posted August 12, 2020 you can swap the wires yep, the green wire on the duke controllers seems a bit more meaty, theres a white connector on the board and if you cut the legs off it with a sharp knife you can see the top of the pins that are going through the board, so you can solder directly to them, or join the wires if you like whichever you prefer. as the old saying goes though 'if it aint broke.....' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sosai880 Posted August 12, 2020 Report Share Posted August 12, 2020 I have now plug my original black controller ( no duke) in a femelle port controller that output in usb male, and next, the usb male plug in usb femelle that output in male controller direct in xbox. And that work perfectly with the logitech dongle too. So there is a very big tolerance of compatibility with this console. And the plug on the mother board for the cable controller is the same it's seem ( about them I openned) . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sh0rtlife Posted August 20, 2020 Report Share Posted August 20, 2020 any compatibility problems you will find 99% of the time lays squarely in the controler board itself, wires and buttons are pretty generic, so much so that i often save busted controlers as "parts" units, good cords good cases etc as you never know what parts you will need or can save from a bad unit one of my fav controles is a clear aftermarket unit for the n64, its a BIG unit and fits my paws like a glove, ive stolen parts from OE controlers to keep it going as the stick tends to wear first and start "drifting" the biggest issue ive ever run across in fact is USB cords not being "standardized", you will often find the same colors but not have them match polarity, nothing will get damaged it just wont function..i mention it because ive gotten into a new habbit of anything USB when the cord starts to die, i open up the device and cut and mold the end plug into the unit so your left with a usb "nub" and then i buy generic usb extension cords, theres a couple bonuses here, 1 if the cord dies you grab another cord, big deal, and since its almost always the cord within the first 6 inches of the device this issue is eliminated permanently, the other bonus is the "trip & snag"..weve all triped yanked and snagged on usb cords, if this happens the cord simply pops out with no damage to anything...the trickiest thing to do it on is mice as there is useualy no room..another bonus is packing stuff up unplug, coil and box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GoTeamScotch Posted August 28, 2020 Report Share Posted August 28, 2020 Yes. I did this 2 weeks ago. Works fine. Me soldering an S-controller cable to a duke. Just match the colors and don't cut the wires too short. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prtscn Posted September 4, 2020 Report Share Posted September 4, 2020 you can cleanly unsolder whole connector, not cutting wire by wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohanSweden Posted March 26, 2022 Report Share Posted March 26, 2022 What is the black plastic thing on the controller cable and do i need it? I have the old type xbox controller, and the cable is damaged just outside the controller In order for me to resolder the cable it seems I need more lenght, is it possible to remove the aformentioned plastic thing near the controller? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mu. Posted March 26, 2022 Report Share Posted March 26, 2022 Its just strain relief, best to keep it on if you can rather than take it off entirely. Or if you're an uncaring monster you could use hot glue or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohanSweden Posted March 26, 2022 Report Share Posted March 26, 2022 I mean the cylindrical shaped plastic thing on the cable like one inch from the controller Don't worry this is just a temporary fix so I can play Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corona2222 Posted March 26, 2022 Report Share Posted March 26, 2022 (edited) 7 hours ago, JohanSweden said: I mean the cylindrical shaped plastic thing on the cable like one inch from the controller noise / data interference suppressor sleeve, a ferrite tunnel found on a lot of types of data cables like USB cables and flat ribbon cables https://www.jaycar.com.au/u16-ferrite-voltage-spike-protectors-noise-suppressors-pk-4/p/LF1292 it will work without but interference on the cable will cause message lost or resend/slow down therefore highly recommended to keep the ferrite sleeve close to one end of the cable. on some cables the sleeve is weakly glued on and can be heated a bit and slowly worked to move along the cable if needed Edited March 26, 2022 by corona2222 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohanSweden Posted March 28, 2022 Report Share Posted March 28, 2022 Okay then ill try to keep it on. If it wont move with some applied heat it should be possible to just cut away the plastic around the core and then just put some heat shrink tube on the core i guess Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tod Posted December 24, 2023 Report Share Posted December 24, 2023 Hey fellas I know this is a long shot but I just completed this repair (swapping a cable from an S controller to a duke) I was just testing things and noticed that there is 1.4 ohms resistance between the two outer pins on the cable, they appear to be the power and the ground. Is that normal? I assume not but all the buttons seem to work just fine though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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