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Hdd Won't Power Up


Smeagolized
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Short answer: sounds like your Xbox PSU is busted.
Long answer: you need to check for continuity on the wiring from the Molex cable down to the points they connect to on the PSU. If the Xbox is otherwise working, then the proper voltages are still being properly generated (at least up to the power connector). Therefore I would suspect a loose connection for the Molex wiring and you'd need to reflow the solder holding it in place on the PSU to ensure a reliable connection. Also check the two black wires (ground) are connected properly on the PSU. A continuity meter here is your best friend. If you find that there is a break in continuity you might be able to solder some wires underneath to repair the connections, though at this point I would suspect that the PSU board has cracks in it, so it might be worth a sensible examination overall. Hopefully helpful pointers: the red wires toward the power connector should have continuity to the red wires on the Molex connector, same for the yellow and black wires.
Sources: Sometimes I've had wierd issues where laptop size drives would work, but desktop sized ones wouldn't. Eventually I traced it to: the 12V wiring was not connected properly, but the 5V wiring was. Most laptop sized drives (except enterprise ones) only need the 5V circuit, but desktop ones typically need both.

If you do not have the tools to diagnose and trace breaks in the circuits on the PSU, I would recommend replacing it for the time being, but plan to fix it later if and when you can get tools to do so. Or give it to someone who can repair it. There is only a finite supply of original Xbox components after all.

EDIT: Sensible disclaimer: Do NOT try testing continuity whilst the PSU is plugged into the mains. Also always press the power button on your Xbox after unplugging from the mains: you will notice it will briefly turn on then off. This will help drain the capacitors on the PSU to avoid a potentially nasty shock while handling it, and you should give it a few minutes before taking it out anyway (don't ask me how I know this!). I apologise in advance if I sound like I'm insulting your intelligence, but it is better to be safe than assume/be sorry!

Edited by samspin
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If you have a multi-meter I'd test the 'faulty' molex connector to see what the output was on each connector socket.

https://www.lifewire.com/molex-4-pin-peripheral-power-connector-pinout-2624582

I've never tested them myself but I'd assume they are standard molex outputs: yellow = 12v, black both = ground and red = 5v.

Should either or both the 12v or 5v be low that's the problem.

It could be a loose connection at either end caused by stretching the wires. I've known cheap molex cable have bent pins(M) or spread sockets(F) or even work loose inside the plug shell itself so it doesn't make good contact with the receiving device. Those are the things I'd be looking for. 

   

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