TSOP - IS THE ONBOARD CHIP THAT BOOTS THE MS BIOS , YOU WILL WANT TO BOOT FROM THIS FOR XBOX LIVE.
LPC - THE HOLES WHERE THE MODCHIP CONNECT TO THE MOBO USING WIRES OR PINHEADER OR QUICKSOLDER METHODS.
FRAG - FLASHES RED AND GREEN. THE XBOX IS TELLING YOU SOMETHING IS WRONG AND IT CANNOT BOOT POSSIBLY DUE TO POOR SOLDERING.
BOOT - WHEN THE XBOX LOADS A BIOS AND STARTS UP THIS PROCESS IS CALLED BOOTING.
BIOS - THE PROGRAM THAT IS STORED ON THE MODCHIP OR TSOP. IT'S EITHER MS OR HACKED (EVOX OR X2).
PIN HEADER - 2 ROWS OF PINS THAT YOU SOLDER INTO THE LPC HOLES AND THEN SIMPLY PLUG YOUR CHIP ONTO IT.
MOBO - SIMPLY MEANS THE XBOX MOTHERBOARD.
D0 - THIS IS A LITTLE VIA ON THE TOP OF THE MOBO OR A SMALL PAD ON THE BOTTOMSIDE OF THE MOBO THAT WHEN GROUNDED PREVENTS THE TSOP BOOTING.
VIA - A VERY SMALL LITTLE CIRCLE. YOU WILL NEED PRACTICE BEFORE YOU CAN SOLDER TO THESE. YOU CAN AVOID THESE ON EARLIER MODELS BUT NOT ON A V1.6
EVOX DASHBOARD - AN ALTERNATE DASHBOARD FOR THE XBOX THAT HAS A MENU TO LOAD GAMES , FLASH YOUR BIOS ETC. NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH EVOX BIOS WHICH IS DIFFERENT AGAIN. EVOX DASHBOARD IS MADE UP OF A NUMBER OF FILES THAT YOU TRANSFER ONTO YOUR HARD DRIVE OR A CDRW. THE LATEST VERSION IS 3935.
EVOX BIOS - A HACKED BIOS FOR THE XBOX , IT ALLOWS YOU TO PLAY BACKUP GAMES AND RUN COOL APPS LIKE EVOX DASHBOARD. THE LASTEST BIOS IS M8 PLUS.
X2 BIOS - A HACKED BIOS FOR THE XBOX , IT ALLOWS YOU TO PLAY BACKUP GAMES AND RUN COOL APPS LIKE EVOX DASHBOARD. THE LASTEST BIOS IS 4983.
HOT SWAP - THE NAME GIVEN TO THE TECHNIQUE OF BOOTING THE XBOX WITH ONE MODCHIP (WITH THE LID OFF AND THE DVDROM TURNED AROUND THE WRONG WAY) AND THEN UNPLUGGING THE MODCHIP FROM THE HEADERPIN AND REPLACING IT WITH A BLANK ONE OR ONE THAT HAS HAD A BAD FLASH AND THEN FLASHING THIS CHIP.
FLASHING - PROGRAMMING A BLANK CHIP OR REPROGRAMMING A CHIP WITH A BIOS FILE. SPIDERCHIP AND ALADDINS NEED A 256K BIOS. DUOX2 NEED A 512K BIOS. ALSO V1.6 XBOX'S REQUIRE THE EVOX M8 PLUS V1.6 BIOS. OTHER MODELS CAN USE THE X2 4981 OR X2 4983 BIOS.
FLASHBIOS - A SPECIAL BIOS THAT ONLY LETS YOU DO A FEW FUNCTIONS. (WONT PLAY BACKUP GAMES). ITS MAIN PURPOSE IS TO FLASH YOUR MODCHIP WITH A HACKED BIOS.
LOCK - LOCKS A HARD DRIVE SO THE MICROSOFT BIOS AND DASHBOARD WILL BOOT. THIS IS NEEDED FOR XBOX LIVE.
UNLOCK - UNLOCKS A HARD DRIVE FOR USE IN A PC. YOU MUST UNLOCK A XBOX HARD DRIVE BEFORE IT CAN BE USED IN A COMPUTER.
I recently attempted an Aladdin XT plus modchip install on my xbox V1.0. Other then trying to suck out the solder from the LPC ports, the process was relatively smooth. When I first went to boot the box, the Aladdin instantly smoked hard so I it off. At the moment I'm trying to figure out whether it was my install error or a faulty chip. When I remove the chip and boot the xbox, it boots fine and normal. As soon as I add the chip back on, which doesn't smoke anymore, the xbox FRAGS. I tested the LPC pins and didnt get any continuity between ones I shouldnt have. I then tested to make sure the 5 and 3,3 voltages were still good and they were. I was gonna test each individual pin and see if maybe Im seeing 5V/3.3V where I shouldnt, but other then that I'm not sure if it was the install, but instead just a faulty chip. I bought it from Modchipcentral and I've gotten good stuff from them before. Any input would be appreciated.
Hi. I have one of the modded Xbox consoles that I bought from N64Freak last year. It's a v1.0 and the power supply has failed, I've tested the console with an old PC PSU just to verify that it's the PSU and it booted. Since the PC power supply has no chance of fitting into the console, and I can't find a power supply that isn't from the USA, I'm going to buy a broken console for spares and use the PSU from that.
So here's my question then, I know that a V1.6 PSU likely won't work since it has 5V on in standby and POWOK has 3.3v in standby, while all the other models only have a 3.3V line active in standby. Will a PSU from a V1.1 up to a v1.5 work if I can source one?
The v1.0 seems to have these cables running to the motherboard:
12v = 1 cable
5v = 3 cables
3.3v = 1 cable
STDBY = 1 cable (3.3v)
GND = 4
POWOK = 1
POWON = 1
The v1.1-v1.5 seems to have:
12v = 1 cable
5v = 4 cables
3.3v = 2 cables
STDBY = 1 cable (3.3v)
GND = 5 cables
POWOK = 1 cable
POWON = 1 cable
Am I right in assuming I could just route the cables from a v1.1-v1.5 into the headers they belong in on the v1.0 motherboard, and just leave out the extra unneeded 5v, 3.3v, and GND cables?
My main concern is whether the newer PSU will have enough wattage to power the console, since I was thinking that the v1.0 might have used more power.
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48