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XBox V1.4 or V1.5: Boots and Then Shuts Down By Itself After About 2-5 Minutes.


Xeon
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Can you post a pic of the main board?

And is it the same timing ie 2 minutes every time or dose it very.?

I am leaning to Bad power filter caps near the heat sink or bad solder joints on the power supply assembly

It could also be over heating from the fan not working but you would normally get some flashing lights

here is also a small chance the HDD is failing

So get snapping with your camera and include both sides and the power supply as well.

 

Cheers

SS Dave

 

Those that can Hard-Mod. Those that can't Soft-Mod.

 

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7 hours ago, Xeon said:

Hello, so I have no idea what the possible problem is, I've removed the clock capacitor, check the power supply unit and haven't noticed any damage. The power button is useless at the point however I can use the eject button to power the console on.

I have a video of which can be viewed here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/b6KK7FcXXmsNTKc87

The electrolyte leaking clock cap damages traces on the under side of the motherboard on the front edge of the printed circuit board.  There are 4 very thin traces that carry the power, eject and front panel Red and Green LED control signals to and from the Xbox's System Management Controller (SMC) - a PIC processor on v1.0-1.5 consoles and the Xyclops chip on v1.6 models.

The damage can cause phantom power on and off operation of the console and DVD tray load/unload problem if really bad.

Remove the clock cap and clean the residue off both the top and bottom of the motherboard.  Look for damage on the bottom side of the motherboard such as shown in the following picture:

spacer.pngRepair the damage.  There are several ways to go about doing so.  Fix each trace by cleaning off the solder mask and solder a wire on each end to bridge over every small damaged section of the trace.  Or, find the starting and ending points for all 4 of these traces and solder a new wire to connect the front panel signal to the SMC bypassing all 4 traces.

Use 26 - 30 Average Wire Gauge (AWG) insulated wire-wrap wire.

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11 hours ago, KaosEngineer said:

The electrolyte leaking clock cap damages traces on the under side of the motherboard on the front edge of the printed circuit board.  There are 4 very thin traces that carry the power, eject and front panel Red and Green LED control signals to and from the Xbox's System Management Controller (SMC) - a PIC processor on v1.0-1.5 consoles and the Xyclops chip on v1.6 models.

The damage can cause phantom power on and off operation of the console and DVD tray load/unload problem if really bad.

Remove the clock cap and clean the residue off both the top and bottom of the motherboard.  Look for damage on the bottom side of the motherboard such as shown in the following picture:

spacer.pngRepair the damage.  There are several ways to go about doing so.  Fix each trace by cleaning off the solder mask and solder a wire on each end to bridge over every small damaged section of the trace.  Or, find the starting and ending points for all 4 of these traces and solder a new wire to connect the front panel signal to the SMC bypassing all 4 traces.

Use 26 - 30 Average Wire Gauge (AWG) insulated wire-wrap wire.

The clock capacitor wasn't leaking nor was it bulging. I took it out because I didn't want to have to deal with it later.

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17 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

Can you post a pic of the main board?

And is it the same timing ie 2 minutes every time or dose it very.?

I am leaning to Bad power filter caps near the heat sink or bad solder joints on the power supply assembly

It could also be over heating from the fan not working but you would normally get some flashing lights

here is also a small chance the HDD is failing

So get snapping with your camera and include both sides and the power supply as well.

 

Cheers

SS Dave

 

Those that can Hard-Mod. Those that can't Soft-Mod.

 

I will when I can. Have you seen the video yet. It was in the link that I included.

Also yes it does very, sometimes it won't even send a signal before it happens.

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First check the traces for corrosion. 

 

Every Xbox I have seen with power button issues and random booting/shutting down had trace issues, some where not even visible. 

 

If your trace is broken, the input for the Pic chip is floating around and chooses to boot/shutdown completely ramdom. 

 

Easiest way to check is to use the beeper on a fast multimeter, one point on the switch and just slide across the feet of the Pic chip and you should get a beep at one feet, if not then there is a trace broken. 

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8 hours ago, Wouter A said:

First check the traces for corrosion. 

 

Every Xbox I have seen with power button issues and random booting/shutting down had trace issues, some where not even visible. 

 

If your trace is broken, the input for the Pic chip is floating around and chooses to boot/shutdown completely ramdom. 

 

Easiest way to check is to use the beeper on a fast multimeter, one point on the switch and just slide across the feet of the Pic chip and you should get a beep at one feet, if not then there is a trace broken. 

I didn't understand that last paragraph. What do you mean by multimeter. Also I'm an Aussie so I do use metric.

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1 minute ago, Xeon said:

I'm sorry but I don't think that's gonna help since I have either the 1.4 revision or the 1.5 revision. I can tell because I have the "Focus" video encoder. Also the country of manufacture is China.

That's the same as my version 1.4 and the points on the PIC IC would be the same on 1.0-1.4.

If you have a version 1.5 then it's probably worth a $10,000 as yet no one involved in the OG Xbox scene has seen one.

 

Cheers

SS Dave

 

Those that can Hard-Mod. Those that can't Soft-Mod.

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Here's a Tutorial/Guide for Testing the Power and Eject signals to the Xbox's System Management Controller (SMC) a PIC processor or the MS custom Xyclops chip from the now defunct diy.sickmods.net web site.

 

SICKmods _ Xbox1 _ Power Eject Pinouts.pdf

Edit: Changed PDF to one with clickable links to WayBack Machine captured content.

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7 hours ago, KaosEngineer said:

Here's the 1.2-1.5 version of the Power/Eject signals to/from the PIC and front panel connector:

pe_trace_12-15.jpg

XboxPicchippinout.jpg.9d8e9b3c966edbdcf5580836d52e52bf.thumb.jpg.1e31ccb7b91fdd579d1ada623f035136.jpg

7 hours ago, KaosEngineer said:

The front panel and PIC connections are the same for v1.0-1.1 and 1.2-1.5; however, the layouts are slightly different with a few of the other parts around those items having different part numbers.

Whats the difference between the pic I posted and yours?

 

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15 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

Whats the difference between the pic I posted and yours?

There's no difference between the PIC connections and front panel connections.  There are slight trace layout differences and some of the parts on the motherboard in slightly different locations in the area of the PIC processor and front panel connector.  There are some people that are sticklers.  Which will say, "Hey, there are parts next to my front panel connector not in the picture you posted for a 1.0/1.1. I have a 1.x (1.2-1.5) motherboard. What's it look like for my motherboard?"

Not that those parts make any difference in making the connections for the power and eject button to the System Management Controller - the PIC processor. :)

 

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