Listing of materials tested:
OSSC V1.6 Chimeric HDMI Konig component Full RGB AV+optical Composite original Pound (2020) Mcable gaming Mclassic Monster component x400 Monster component x200 Variety of wall chargers and HDMI cables
All the combinations and configurations had tested.
Tested with 4 TV and two Xbox : V 1.6 no modded, V1.0 XBMC ( when it was possible, but no one did consequential differences )
Xbox+Chimeric+Mclassic (green led (alimented wall)) +Mcable gaming (alimented wall).
The monster component x400 was a little better than konig component, and the monster x200 was like composite because the three plugs are video x1 and stereo x2. Not three RGB like I had thinking. Next, I tested all settings of the OSSC expecting upgrade my video with a HDMI solution. The picture was worst than the monster. With the good material, perhaps it's possible. But the OSSC loose always a part of the signal, event it is alimented.
The pound (with mini usb port) was very poor. Yes, it's very better than composite but: Green filter. Not very sharp etc.
But it's wasn't a problem because I had bet all on the Chimeric.
Finaly, I recived the chimeric, and horror, the monster component smashes far more once again , with is colors very realistic and the picture very compatible with the signal source. I pluged the Mcable and the Mclassic, but this changed nothing.
I thinking pass all my life with monster x400.
There was some additionnal issues like horizontal lines "flapping" or noise in the textures.
After to have expected an issus of fabrication, I Shipped an message to Chimeric system. Before to receive a response, I had set up the stuff again, and this is it! It work fine. Mclassic was alimented in the pc port, but we need to put it in the wall. We need to find the perfect Tv setting too because the signal is different of any sources. So the best mode need to be (desatured with wider spectrum. All spectrum of light and colors).
Now it is better than the monster component.
And better than the chimeric only. The stuff do all that it must to do.
But, after that, I upgraded the output video another time with an astuce.
I bought some different wall charger more powerful and the video become consequently much higher.
Now with the good wall charger.
It's a masterpiece.
How setting this Winning combination.
Xbox dashboard- Audio : Use Stereo if you have 2 speakers (or stereo+DTS). Souround + dolby for 5 speakers.
Mclassic: Mode green. Alimented by a wall charger 5v- 1.8 A. Little bit hight or less.
Mcable Gaming: Alimented by a wall charger 5v -2.4 A
Tv(Flat): Here my setting for exemple : Contraste 100, Brillance 63, Couleur 50, Netteté 100, image-ia EF, cats HF, reduc HF
If the TV has more pixels than the video source, zoomed in will not do appear new details in the pictures, but increase the sharpenes and clarity of theirs . See picture 1-2. A higher format TV will provide more sharpeness and natural with this set up. But it's the inverse result with a cheap ultra-HD tv. Picture 3-4.
The winnig TV was : 1080p Panasonic TC-L32U3. Second place : Panasonic TC-L32X5. The two other TV ultra Hd (were very bad) : LG 47LN5750-UH and SAMSUNG UN50TU7000F
The V1.6 xbox, with Panasonic tv and Chimeric, added vertical shadow lines with halo 2 and halo 1 on the sky and on the pale background textures. But nothing else. It run perfectly since 2004.
The V1.0 XBOX XBMC added horizontal artefacts with all the games and emulators. But don't has the precedent problem with the shadow lines. His cd drive works poorly.
The second best set up was : Pound alimented wall (with the same settings and stuff) . Only switch the chimeric by the Pound. For exemple, the set up with Chimeric seem that.
The monster component x400 do the best picture and sound for easy and low budget. And the colors are more natural than the Pound.
Konig: AV component RGB+optical in one. Show details clear. Dont't blur. But did a video quality inferior than Monster x400.
The V1.6 OSSC : With all the settings, in x1 and x2 too, and with two TV, did the signal and the colors loose their intensity. The picture was pale and bleach. And in X1, there was no global difference compared good component (except the previews problems). In x2, the game was pixelised like 2D 1987 games, without degrad. He was made for keep the squarred pixels of old console. He was not made for the Xbox or consoles 480p or more. Audio problems : Not make to transfer the best audio possible because he can not out put the audio by HDMI. To plug somewhere, it need an extra connector because the input is a jack 1/8. and that cause a losing of signal. He is not do for the Xbox or console 480p or more.
Good Generique HDMI cable: Make the stone texture more natural than the mcable gaming, but was less good for the shiny-lustred surfaces and did the picture more pixelised. The mcable gaming did the surfaces that was clear or polish (like water, electricity, and metal) more realistic and upgraded. Halo2 has textures 3d-like based on the details of mapping. So, when I added extra signal boost with the wall chargers, and used the mcable gaming, it was like if new textures was appears.
Chimeric: Added red filter with the TC-L32U3 TV, and perhaps very little with the samsung TV . He did thin shaded lines in the bleach textures of Halo2 with the V1.6 xbox.
Pound: Added green filter impossible to remove completly. Plus has the same issu than the chimeric (horizontal shaded lines) but this lines were only with halo 2 on the panasonic TC-L32U3 and the xbox V1.6)
Mclassic : Works with all. TV Cartoon too. Need wall charger of 1.8 A (approximately). The two modes don't affect the defenition. Only the resolution.
Souround 5.1=5 speakers . Stereo=two speakers. That mean that dolby souround on XBOX is useless if you don't have the stuff. Note that the sound was really better with a good component than with the composite. But, I noticed no audio differences between monster and this winning set up. My external stereo speakers cleared the sound compared to my internal tv speakers. If you want speakers, you need receiveur Yamaha. Speakers only don't work. If you want for gaming, select the speakers with a natural sound, and did for classic-JAZZ musics. Games need hight frequency sound ( metalic, robots, cars crash, bullet impacts, shield, bird cry, wind, radio, snap-crunch). And take speakers that have not box shape, to have realistic sound. I am using a Yamaha receiver R-s300 with two small Paradigm that have a rounded plastic shape.
Finaly, the https://makemhz.com/ seems to be better than the chimeric. So I will change the chimeric for it and keep all the settings and materials in this set up.
Thanks SS_Dave for help.
Hi, hope you can all help, I've done my research, searching and have the same issue as in the other thread, but creating a new thread so that his issue doesn't get complicated.
I've had my NTSC box since day one purchase, softmodded when that first became available, upgraded the harddrive. All was working fine when I used the xbox last year.
Plugging it in today and I get solid green light, no video, no audio, no flubber, and no eject DVD.
What I've done so far.
Bought another PAL XBOX from ebay (just in case I can't fix the other one) - it's a 1.6. Swapped what I thought was the faulty DVD drive to the new xbox, it works fine. Tried the red, yellow, white cable and SCART (no image) Tried the HD component box (no image) I've inspected the board, I don't think anything as leaked, here are some pictures.
I don't think any cap has blown leaked.
Is the fix at this point, to try to do the coma fix as above I'm a soldering noob, so going to need to practice that first! Is there a way of getting anything off the old harddrive? I've kept eeprom etc or do I have to try the above first as can't swap the harddrive to the new xbxox. Do I need to check the underside of the motherboard? I've not done this yet.
Any help, much appreciated, thank you.
Hey guys, just wondering if someone could confirm a suspicion of mine.
So a while ago I dug out my old OG Xbox (V1.3 I believe) and found it wasn't working, it would switch on for a couple seconds then power off again. Did some research and found that the dreaded clock cap had leaked and one of the traces on the back was broken. So I removed the motherboard with the intention of repairing it, but then life got in the way and I didn't have the time so it sat in pieces for the best part of a year before I found the time to fix it. So I managed to remove the clock cap and clean the board, then I jumped the broken trace with a wire between the test points. (All good there, no shorts that I could find)
I also changed the thermal paste on the GPU and CPU to Arctic MX4 while I was at it.
So I put it all back together again, plugged it into my old SCART tv, it turns on from the power button fine, has a solid green light, you can hear the hard drive starting up too (still has the original in it right now) but there is no audio or video output to the tv. I tried a different AV cable but got the same result, and I know the tv is good cause my Sega Saturn works fine through the SCART.
Also worth mentioning that the DVD drive (Samsung) won't open by it's self. I cleaned up the belt and greased the slides but same result. I tried it with the top of the DVD drive off so I could see and it looks like the laser moves about like it wants to open but the motor makes no attempt to spin up.
So in short I have a V1.3 Xbox that shows a solid green light, No video, No audio and the DVD drive doesn't open.
From what I've read on here so far it sounds like I may have a corrupt BIOS/coma console on my hands (though I heard V1.0 and V1.1 were more prone to that).
What do you guys think?
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48