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Psu Failed In V1.0


Steo1024
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Hi. I have one of the modded Xbox consoles that I bought from N64Freak last year. It's a v1.0 and the power supply has failed, I've tested the console with an old PC PSU just to verify that it's the PSU and it booted. Since the PC power supply has no chance of fitting into the console, and I can't find a power supply that isn't from the USA, I'm going to buy a broken console for spares and use the PSU from that.

 

So here's my question then, I know that a V1.6 PSU likely won't work since it has 5V on in standby and POWOK has 3.3v in standby, while all the other models only have a 3.3V line active in standby. Will a PSU  from a V1.1 up to a v1.5 work if I can source one?

 

The v1.0 seems to have these cables running to the motherboard:

12v = 1 cable

5v = 3 cables

3.3v = 1 cable

STDBY = 1 cable (3.3v)

GND = 4

POWOK = 1

POWON = 1

 

The v1.1-v1.5 seems to have:

12v = 1 cable

5v = 4 cables

3.3v = 2 cables

STDBY = 1 cable (3.3v)

GND = 5 cables

POWOK = 1 cable

POWON = 1 cable

 

Am I right in assuming I could just route the cables from a v1.1-v1.5 into the headers they belong in on the v1.0 motherboard, and just leave out the extra unneeded 5v, 3.3v, and GND cables?

 

My main concern is whether the newer PSU will have enough wattage to power the console, since I was thinking that the v1.0 might have used more power.

Edited by Steo1024
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Thanks for the reply. I would keep the header from the old PSU and put the cables into the correct spots. I tried to source the original PSU, but I could only find them on ebay.com from the US, and I assumed it would blow up the transformer if it was used in Europe.

That's a pretty handy one you have there since it can fit anything aside from a v1.6.

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3 minutes ago, KaosEngineer said:

Xbox v1.0 and v1.1 use a 12x1 row connector while v1.2-1.5 and v1.6 (not suitable though as power levels are different) use a 2x10 ATX-style connector for the motherboard's power supply connection.  Therefore, you need to find a v1.0 or 1.1 Xbox to use it's PSU as a replacement.

have a look at the pic I uploaded. I have used that one on a version 1.0 and on version 1.2.

I also have a adaptor here some where that went from a version 1.0 to a version 1.6 same as the 1 for sale on the dutch web site

 

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Haha yeah, I was just doing it to be sure it worked, but then I thought I'd share the picture when I seen how ridiculous it looked. 😛


At least I know the console still works, and I've managed to source a 2002 console (v1.1) that should have the right PSU. I should have it sorted after the weekend.

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I got the V1.0 Xbox earlier today and just used the PSU for my 1GHz Xbox for now. The Xbox was listed as faulty, stating that the power button gets stuck and the laser is weak. I tested the Xbox today, and it's actually the eject button that's finicky, but it still works. I tried Splinter Cell Chaos Theory, which I'm almost sure is a dual layer disc, and it was working fine. It's a Thomson drive, just like my other V1.0 originally had, but I replaced that one with a Samsung.

 

Since that other Xbox seemed to work fine aside from the sticky eject button (which is something that can easily be fixed), I'll still keep an eye out for another power supply, or another cheap Xbox that actually had something such as the HDD fail so I can use the PSU from that. It would be good to have this working too as it can be TSOP flashed also.

 

Another weird thing is that I expected it to have the GPU fan, but it has the passive heatsink too, and was missing a couple of screws. Whoever owned it before me must have gotten the GPU heatsink replaced.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Steo1024

Looking at the pic you posted the Caps near the input connector look as if they maybe on there way out . I might be worth giving it a work over.

Other than that good score now you need a 1.4 to 1.6 adaptor and you have a good test supply.

 

SS Dave


Those who can hard-mod, Those who can’t soft-mod.

 

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Yeah they are bulging quite a bit, you can even tell from the picture despite it being focused on the cable. It was in the box, but it must have been used, as not only are those caps bulging, but the actual AC input connector was slightly bent. I did get it for around €10 though, to that's not bad.

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For that price it's not a bad buy'

I would replace the cap's and re-solder the 2 pin power connector before putting in to use as those caps could explode at worst at best they just fizz the smoke out( and that smoke stinks) and are more than likely not doing there job.

 

SS Dave


Those who can hard-mod, Those who can’t soft-mod.

 

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nice, its like those multi fit ones from the dutch website, i have ordered one of those through a mate that lives in holland, he is fluent in dutch and will post it to me when he gets it, for 12 euro they are a steal.

especially since they are new in box, given the choice between used and new for about the same money its a no brainer its just a shame they dont have an english mode on their website for ordering direct.

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I have tested the PSU to be sure it works and it does, but I will definitely replace those caps, as they are bulging quite noticeably. For how cheap caps are, it's not worth letting the PSU destroy itself. That's probably what happened to the previous PSU anyway, one of the caps on that looked like it was splitting.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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