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Messed Up Aladdin Install Help Appreciated.


Verynormal
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So i got everything installed and i get the xbox trying to boot 3x (i can see the fan on the gpu spinning) then it flashes red/green and no more fan spinning on gpu but it sounds like my hdd is still going. No picture at any point. I had alot of issues with soldering the D0 point and if im being honest i dont know if its soldered to a proper ground or not i put it to one of the bigger square pads on the motherboard. Also when soldering the D0 point i coudnt get any solder to stay and i couldn't really even see the point anymore so i went above it to another point and scraped off some of the solder mask that was on it and soldered there instead, i was hoping that since it was on the same trace it would work the same but i doubt it works like that. This is the exact chip i used and its a version 1.0 xbox.   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GWQXP62/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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first off: i'm not an expert but here's my two cents

looks like the D0 that you tried to solder to is gone completely. since it's not just a funny dot on the board but a thru-port (not sure of the correct term but it goes through the board and connect to the other side) there's a break in the connection now that possibly causes your xbox to stall.

i won't consider the board dead yet but it might be tricky to fix it

some smaller and solid wire might be a better choice in addition to a smaller or pointier tip on the solder iron.

if your solder iron can be regulated in heat i'd set it to somewhere between 360 and 380 (celsius). that's how i've set mine and although i'm not a pro i haven't burnned any pads or traces yet.

also i'd reflow/resolder the lpc pins on that matter to make better contact with the board since as of now the joints are a bit too sphericalbut should look like 'pyramid' rather.

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1st up the trace is damaged and will need to be repairedDamaged_PCB.thumb.jpg.1e944e64afcc5fb229788afcceba2556.jpg

You will need to link the trace either side of where you tried to solder too.

 

 

untouched.thumb.jpg.dd45b84bcc92aa8eb6f0ae5e05dd2435.jpg

 

2nd try using a thiner wire single strand wirewrap wire is perfect and any reason you have the D0 going to ground and not to the D0 pad on the mod chip.

 

wire_on_D0.thumb.jpg.b69d6b991a7af812984ca0db1004ccf0.jpg

3rd Please clean that mother board and not so much solder on the LPC port.

 

Cheers SS Dave

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use 30 gauge AWG,

Remove that huge wire you have going to ground,

and just use the D0 point on the top (its a smaller pad so be careful,) , like SS_dave said connect it to the modchip not ground,

also follow his advice and clean all that flux off the board use 91% Isopropyl alcohol, Q-tips and a toothbrush then make sure its all dry.

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Sorry for the long winded post it's more of a Tutorial on geting out of a minor stuff up.

All is not lost

I have had PCB's droped on my repair bench with a sh!t load more damage than that in the 40+ Years I have been a tech.

1st up carefully remove that wire and bin it.

Clean the around where you have been working  I use this stuff with an antistatic brush but  an old tooth brush will also work.

Isopropyl.PNG.5d66689da40f668156a6d66d8e030bc0.PNG

A cotton bud (quetip) is ok for where you had the wire is if your scared.

You can also clean the whole PCB with the same stuff. Make sure it's dry befor powering it up a heat gun on low or a hair drier will speed  that up. Cleaning a whole  board like a xbox with a quetip is for beginers. Boards go though a full autrasonic bath in production so a light scrub with Isopropyl is nothing. In a pinch you can use methylated spirits.

2nd Go and get some Kynar 30AWG wire.

While your getting the Kynar wire get some Solder wick, 0.8mm solder and solder flux paste.

Look at this pic below if you solder a wire from where you had your wire at the red mark at the top to the trace beside the red mark at the bottom that will repair the board.

If you follow where you have soldered the wire along the track you will see what i mean. 

It's the trace on the corner of the yellow capacitor.

268369486_D0TraceRepair.PNG.eefddb6acf0785b267ba1d89c05b66f7.PNG

A light scrape of the pcb to remove the greenish paint ( I mean light you only want to remove the paint so you can see the silver/copper track) then add flux, then tin the trace (add a small amount of solder to the track) {work Dr Google for solder tinning } now tin the wire now hold the wire on the tined trace and apply heat. Job done. 

 

The next 2 pics is from a Aladdin install manual

1463975376_D0onmodchip.PNG.483c0f29b2e847d143960f558b780296.PNG1410554856_D02up.PNG.16305009c8720e3a6b696512e7fea043.PNG

To attach the D0 wire to the PBC on the top using the technique above or you can add the D0 wire to the same wire you repaired the track with.

Using the solder wick remove 75% of the solder around the LPC port adding some flux will help use Miss Google again if your not sure on using solder wick.

Now remove the clock cap (do a search)

Give the PCB a good clean and go over your work with a magnifying glass and redo anything your not happy with.

Once  you have compleated the repair and it's all working and your happy with your self give your self a pat on the back and post us pic of your work.

A hint DO NOT work on this type of repair when tried, stressed and have plenty of light. Also don't rush it just take yor time.

If you get stuck or are not sure if your doing it corectly just ask.

 

Good Luck

 

Cheers 

SS Dave

I am just blowing my own trumpet here. This is pic of one of the  PS2 Mod chip's I fitted sometime ago.PS2_Duo3_Ultra.thumb.jpg.b8555305f7a5c32241710956a366246e.jpg

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Well i probably bricked this poor thing, tried to fix that D0 and when i was soldering by the capacitor i pulled the trace up off it, tried to get it all back together but it still does the same thing as when i started. Guess i wont be doing anymore hardmods but at least it was an interesting project, even if i failed.

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Good to here you got it going and I think it's going to live. It also looks like you removed some of the excess solder from the LPC port

 

Here is part 2 of my Tutorial with pictures.

 

1st step Clean off the paint.

1963678923_1Tracewithpaintremoved.jpg.be19f3f2b4803a9d80750d044420f0ee.jpg

 

I cheated and used a Glass fiber pen to do that but gentley scraping the track is ok you only nead to remove the paint.

1158599507_1FiberPed.jpg.f2965aff5cc1754da19972d42daeb017.jpg1323367282_1FiberPenTip.jpg.5bb65f918ac22d13989ab6a87ae6b7f3.jpg

 

2nd Step Add flux to the board

1180482434_1TracewithFlux.jpg.0ea2dd090018ee6a0c892cd563d52c62.jpg

 

3rd Tin the trace

2125886261_1TinnedTrace.jpg.30f490c52caca9ae2070c54add9182f7.jpg

 

4th Prep the wire you are going to use

1237117358_1WireIAmGoingToUse.jpg.45d64d5e0bcb57cf0964c3807aa028c5.jpg

 

5th Tin and trim the wire. I should have trimed it a bit shorter

772491058_1WireThatsBeenTinnedandTrimed.jpg.99dbfb106afe9fcca64e929414b204db.jpg

 

6th Lay the wire on the tinned trace and apply heat.

1239961257_1AtachedWireStillWithFlux.jpg.12b36995f23dac9ccf3e0a83f1157c17.jpg

 

7th Clean up the PCB

1379049360_1CompletedandCleaned.jpg.c47a5b0def5d2237f29495b26bf83fca.jpg

 

Now rince and repeat for the other end.

Once you have tested it and your happy a small dob of hot melt glue or even a dob of super glue to stop the wire moving. Not on the solder joint say 5 to 10mm(1/4 inch) from the solder joint.

Once you have it up and running I suggest you use the D0 point on the other side.

Then when it can read backup disk's think about putting on the TSOP flash links even if you use conductive paint and reflash the board and keep the chip for a your next one. A search will fill you in how to do that.

The best thing I did was get a memory card and the 007 agent under fire game.

Easy add the TSOP flash solder links copy game save to Xbox from the memory card then insert the 007 game in drive and reboot the Xbox when game has loaded load the saved mission then less than 5 minutes later it's reflashed.

 

Any way let me know how you get on with the repair.

 

Cheers

 

SS Dave

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All the solder on the pin header connections to the LPC Debug port are just sitting on top of the pin not making a connection to the motherboard.  The solder should flow into and around each pin inside the thru holes of the motherboard.

If it FRAGs with the modchip connected, D0 is grounded forcing the loading of a BIOS from the LPC attached flash memory device on the modchip.  However, the BIOS is not loading thus the FRAG. 

Reflow all of the LPC pin header solder joints to make a good connection to the motherboard not a ball sitting on top of each pin.

See: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering/common-problems

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10 hours ago, KaosEngineer said:

All the solder on the pin header connections to the LPC Debug port are just sitting on top of the pin not making a connection to the motherboard.  The solder should flow into and around each pin inside the thru holes of the motherboard.

If it FRAGs with the modchip connected, D0 is grounded forcing the loading of a BIOS from the LPC attached flash memory device on the modchip.  However, the BIOS is not loading thus the FRAG. 

Reflow all of the LPC pin header solder joints to make a good connection to the motherboard not a ball sitting on top of each pin.

See: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering/common-problems

That maybe the case but he needs to repair the damage to the PCB 1st. Lets get it working then look at modding it.

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Well Done and congratulations that wire link you have put on PCB this time is much better.

You should add some flux to the LPC pins and reflow the solder as some look a bit susspect the common name for a conection looking like that is a dry joint which can fail easly with heat/cold and vibration. You can apply a little bit more heat compaired to the other tracks have a look at the power connector pins and you should get the idea.

Give the entire board a clean and reasamble and then enjoy!

Cheers

 SS Dave

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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