Dave C. Posted August 28, 2017 Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaosEngineer Posted August 28, 2017 Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 Nice job! What did you use to clean the green paint off as seen in the first picture? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave C. Posted August 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2017 Don't laugh. An orbital sander. It turns out that when you paint it, at least with a solid color (pretty sure a translucent color would not work, that it appears perfectly clear. I am working on a pretty badly damaged one where I had to sand the front as well (by hand). I will post a pic if it turn out nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MvZiC MaN Posted August 29, 2017 Report Share Posted August 29, 2017 (edited) Looks awesome man!! i love the look of the black jewels on the black consoles. What grit sandpaper did you use? Edited August 29, 2017 by MvZiC MaN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave C. Posted August 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted August 29, 2017 As Tim the Toolman would say, 220, 221 whatever it takes Actually I used 320 with say medium speed on a decent Bosch orbital sander. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlimBoy Posted September 15, 2017 Report Share Posted September 15, 2017 Job well done. Looks very nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big F Posted September 17, 2017 Report Share Posted September 17, 2017 A good way is to use Mr Muscle over cleaner spray. You have to be careful not to get it into the logo but it has the desired effect on loosing the green. Dont laugh but you can polish them with toothpate also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incursion64 Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 You can use an orbital sander, I usually use 1000 grit pads (add a little water to the pad first), then sand by hand using one of those car headlight kits. Wet sand using the two pads that come with it and buff it with the attachment that hooks up to a hand drill. Clear looks awesome and perfect for painting. I usually get the scuffs off the front also with that kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Incursion64 Posted October 12, 2017 Report Share Posted October 12, 2017 (edited) Started at 8:40, finished at 9:13 Step 1 - Remove RF shielding from underside of Case Top. Use a heat gun or hair dryer on the underside where the jewel sits above. Don't heat too long and move the air around, too much heat can warp or burn through the plastic. Once you have sufficiently warmed the bottom, the foam tape under the jewel will have softened. Use a prying tool or a thin flat head to pry up. Don't force it too much, you don't want to damage the edge of the jewel. Once you get the flat head under the jewel a little ways, lift the handle of the screwdriver upward so you are lifting the jewel with the shaft of the screw driver instead of the tip. Lift slowly, the tape is stretchy and will work itself free. The jewel can be fragile, you don't want to fracture or crack it. Step 2 - Use thermal paste remover to soften tape if needed.. On that hard rubber tape that some units have I had to re-apply and scrape off, I actually used the flat heat a little for that (carefully). The soft stuff you can just wipe with a rag. Just like when removing thermal paste the more moist the substrate, the more it penetrates what you are removing. I actually used that to completely get rid of all the green also by wiping over it.. BE CAREFUL IF USING - If you let the remover sit too long it can damage the plastic. When I did the jewel above, i had no issues, i did another yesterday and completely screwed it up. ALTERNATIVE - Sand it down, start with a little grit like 320 or so, if you can get the tape off by warming, peeling, goo gone or whatever, you can probably go right to 600 grit (can use an orbital here). Then do the wet sanding at 1000 grit, then 3000 grit. Step 3 - using Meguiars Headlight kit, I wet sanded using the 1000 grit (have used orbital also, but easy enough by hand). I did both sides of jewel, continuously adding water, then used the 3000 grit pad on both sides jewel. step 4, Use about a nickels worth of plastX cleanser and polish (to both sides) and buff with the drill wheel. Dry with microfiber cloth and ready for paint or leave as is if you want a clear jewel. The kit you can get on Amazon. It comes with the buffing wheel, 2 sanding pads, an the plastX solution. Edited October 17, 2017 by Incursion64 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob Posted November 27, 2017 Report Share Posted November 27, 2017 Nice, what paint did you use on the Jewel and has any one had any issue when sticking the newly painted jewel back down - i.e de-laminating due to reaction with paint and glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave C. Posted December 6, 2017 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2017 Hello, I had been using Testers Modeling Spray Paint but it is very expensive. I get the same or better results with the Rust-Oleum (but only that version in the picture below). I only use that Gorilla Tape to mount them and never have had a problem with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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