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Lifted a Trace Trying To Tsop


Gorrillasnot
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My old eyes and lack of soldering skills has caused a problem.

Plan was to TSOP a 1.0 Xbox. Top side bridge R7D3 went fine, but on the bottom of the board at R7R3 I burnt off the pad and the trace lifted up (bottom arrow).

Can I solder a wire from the lifted trace to either the pad above it if I can get it to stick or the surface mount resistor above that pad (seen in pic)?

Xbox is softmodded and still working. Maybe i should just quit while I am ahead lol

pad.jpg

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20 minutes ago, Gray1 said:

I have had terrible luck with the conductive ink. Maybe it was just me. I have had good luck with Bare Electric Paint from Amazon.

 

What exactly is the difference? Just easier to apply since it’s not in pen form? I’ve never used either but the ink seems pretty popular. 

Glad to hear you got your box in ship shape!

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I got bored and tore the Xbox back down for 1 more go at repairing the trace..success! I soldered a small wire from the surface mount resister to the lifted trace.

popped in bios checker and now it says hynix bios 4034 or something like that.so I think I am now successfully TSOP'd which brings me to another question? versions 1.0 and 1.1 have a 1MB TSOP so when choosing the BIOS to flash in hexen I would chose non winbond, but do I want 256MB or 512MB?

Also which BIOS is best, ind v503/504 or evox m8 plus?

 

thanks

Edited by Gorrillasnot
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You’re halfway there, anyway! Now that you can write to the TSOP, feel free to choose any BIOS. The 1MB TSOP chips don’t have any restrictions on what BIOS you can run, besides that you CANNOT USE X3 BIOS. 

but that’s not in HeXEN anyway. I’m personally partial to INd 5003 as it’s highly customizable. EvoX M8+ is more of an “out of the box” kind of BIOS - nothing too fancy, but it’s quick to start, has no DvD check, and gets the job done. I hear a lot of users complain about the big pink EvoX shield. 

There is a tool for customizing EvoX BIOS here on the site, EVTool. This rebuilds the BIOS and allows you to flash your customized version. 

If you choose InD-bios, make sure to put an ind-bios.cfg into your C:/ folder. I believe the HeXEN disc has one, and it may or may not install it for you. Worth doing yourself just to be sure though. 

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Sweet success followed by the bitter taste of defeat lol

I put in the hexen 2019 DVD in and chose non winbond and figured I'd try the 256 evox m8+ with f and g. Pressed y and it began to erase then hung close to the end of the erasing process. Been on this screen for 20min so I'm guessing my repaired trace somehow lost connection.

I'm guessing if I powered off the Xbox would be bricked? Is there anyway to recover..maybe a a cheap aladdin xt modchip?

 

thanks

P_20190620_174327.jpg

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Don’t buy a replacement board to fix a bad flash, you’ll still have a deader. 

You can use the EvoX M7 Recovery bios - will link when Ali can find it - but that requires a chip. If you’re inclined the “coma console” fox might help, although it seems like you fanaged to get enough of a flash that it’s hard to say. 

 

https://www.xbox-hq.com/html/xbox-tutorials-226.html

 

M7 Recovery BIOS: http://assemblergames.com/threads/1-0-1-5-tsop-recover-bios-tsop_m7-bin.54493/

Edited by Magicaldave
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I've ordered a aladdin xt 4032 from ebay and waiting for it to arrive.

In the meantime I have been reading various install guides and some say to wire D0 to the chip and some say wire D0 to ground. Which would be best? if D0 to ground, where would be a good ground location on a 1.0 board?

 

thanks

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I’m sure I may be corrected on this as regards the chip, as I’ve just received my first Aladdin Xt after accidentally frying my old X2. 

As far as I’m aware, the XT does not actually release D0 from ground like some more proper modchips do. Similar to removing the LFRAME trace on 1.6 consoles this increases voltage in a place where it shouldn’t really be increased (MCPX?) and *can* theoretically cause failures, but I’ve also never heard of that actually happening. 

Tl;Dr, D0 to chip VS D0 to GND doesn’t make much difference here except how easily you can remove the modchip  

The best ground to use would probably be the screw pad nearest the LPC port, just above, but you can use any of the screw pads or even the metal shielding of the console itself. Would suggest using the Alt D0 point on the bottom of the board as it’s much easier to solder to. 

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thanks ..yep I used the pad on the bottom side of the board, my old eyes wouldn't have been able to even see the 1 on the top side lol

Next issue is this board has the LPC ports soldered over..what would be the best way to remove that solder or should I just leave it and heat the points as I'm pushing the pins of the pin header in?

I saw a youtube video where a guy made it look easy using  solder wick, but in my previous experience trying to clean a pad with solder wick, if you aren't careful the solder wick will solder itself to the board and with my luck lifting a trace would be the result.

 

thanks

 

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As above, gotta get yourself some flux to use the wick, because otherwise it’s just gonna stick like an old piece of gum and a lifted trace would probably be the least problematic thing to have happen upon its removal. 

A way I had to get around this recently was simply to improvise a pin header by taking some pliers and using them to forcefully remove, them clip, the data pins from an IDE DVD drive. Really anything you’re not using with some extra free pins would do. You just have to be really careful not to apply too much pressure while sliding those pins in individually, or let them go so far through that it just hits the metal shield and shorts out. 

I guess you could try taping over the pin header, flipping the board over and soldering individually, but if you’re able to make that work it’ll probably be a lot more time consuming and difficult than is really necessary. 

Alternatively, if you’re more inclined to just keep the chip and use a 256k BIOS than screw around with M7, you can just use the quicksolder pins. It’s called quicksolder for a reason, but you’re not gonna be removing that thing without some legwork. 

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thanks for the info guys.

I managed to get the LPC cleaned up by applying flux then using my smallest conical tip and a solder sucker on the back side, the ports cleaned right out. whew! it made me nervous..lol

I am still waiting for the modchip to arrive, but when it does and if I can install it successfully I think I will just leave it in permanent, which brings me to a couple more questions.

Xboxwiki says pin 6 on the LPC provides 5v and on 1.6 versions always on 5v even when the xbox is just plugged in but turned off, which I think would mean the modchip LED would be lit all the time even when the xbox is powered off..This won't be the case on my 1.0 though would it?

and the second question is what would be the best BIOS to flash to the modchip?

 

thanks

 

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Dude. With a solder sucker? Nice fucking work! I gave up on using those years ago, let alone to clear an LPC port... nice work, seriously. 

 

Pin 6 of the LPC only provides standby power on 1.6 units, partially because those PSUs supply 5Vsb instead of 3.3Vsb like earlier revision consoles. No problem here. 

As far as the BIOS goes, I personally would recommend IND-BIOS 5003. Can’t remember offhand but there is a version of 5004, I think 5004.67, that just bricks whatever you flash it to. IND bios is the most feature packed and easiest to customize unless you’re using an X3 modchip. Also, you’ll need an ind-bios.cfg file on C:\ or it won’t work. Don’t recall if HeXen intalls this or not, but i’m pretty sure the disc has a copy of the .cfg file needed on it and can be copied manually from HeXen’s File Explorer.

Do not attempt to install X3 bios, you’ll have the exact same problem. 

If you’re not so much into customizing it, especially the colors and models in startup video, or whether you see them at all, use EvoX M8+ or X2. I *think* there’s a 256K version of X2. Personally the only difference I’ve ever noticed between the two is the size, but also the only experience I have with X2 is using it for a few days and replacing with EvoX. 

If you wanna get REALLY exotic, you can also install Yoshihiro’s debug BIOS which runs retail and development code, plus allows remote video capture. Never done this one myself but I’ve got a copy I’m planning to install soon. 

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My Xbox version is a 1.0...sorry for the confusion.

My modchip arrived today, installed the pin header no prob, attached the BT wire to the appropriate points, the D0 is wired up from the D0 point to ground on the board (not to the modchip), put it back together and when I power on I get the microsoft screen with the Evox logo on the top left, but then it goes to a blank screen.

Tried booting Hexen 2017, 2019, and AID 4.53..None of them will boot. Before I messed up the trace trying to TSOP the Xbox was softmodded.

Do I need to pull the HDD and unlock it and put it back to the stock 5960 dash, then re lock it and start over or do u think I did something wrong with my chip install?

 

thanks

Edited by Gorrillasnot
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