BigBoi73 Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 k i have a 1.6 version xbox here tested unit before trying and all was good whilst fitting an aladdin chip and doing the lpc rebuild do dar one of the pads on the mb has lifted https://circuit-board.de/forum/index.php/Attachment/72198-Aladdin-XT-installation-Guide-pdf/ using the above guide its the cable from the top right point on the header to the contact/point (this is the oine thats lifted) between r7t3 and c7t3 i think the track is damaged i have removed all wires installed elsewhere and re assembled and unit now showing FRAG is it fubared? or is there a way to fix/sort? thank you in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magicaldave Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 (edited) Hey, thanks for joining! It is most likely fixable. You should see some of the things I have accidentally done to a console and managed to recover from, these things happen Ahh I misspoke. r7T3 and C7T3 are clearly evident on the underside of the board; obvious, since you mentioned this happened during the lpc rebuild Please post a photo of the affected area if you can! This can help us to figure out what the extent of the damage is. It may be possible to re-run the trace if necessary, using something like a bit of speaker wire or spare IDE cable. Edited June 10, 2019 by Magicaldave Misspoke regarding silkscreen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBoi73 Posted June 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 K thank you for the response. Will take a pic later and post up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ging3rguy Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 Get yourself some kynar 30 awg wire to fix any traces. Have you left the pinheader attached, if so check for any solder bridges on the pinheader. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBoi73 Posted June 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBoi73 Posted June 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBoi73 Posted June 10, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 plz note i did try do desolder/remove the header hence why soldering is a tad poor at the mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magicaldave Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 First thing I would do, if you haven’t already, is just give it a nice break. In my experience battering your head against these things just makes it worse eventually. I see two locations that appear to be damaged. The uppermost pad at R8R1 looks to have almost completely been lifted. It doesn’t look to go anywhere so it may be supplying power directly to the other side of the board. Gently, push it down as far as you can and dab on some solder to try and hold it in place. This should at least get your electrical connection back. Next, directly above, or to the left, of C7T3, that pad is just gone. If you follow the trace on both ends, you should see small holes - vias - on both ends. Take a very very fine, sharp object, and scrape JUST A TEENY TINY bit to remove the solder mask and reveal the trace underneath. Be very careful when doing this as it’s easy to overdo it and take the whole trace. This way, you should be able to take some spare wire or as Ging3rguy mentioned regular kynar wire, and solder it into these holes. Try to tin the wires a bit beforehand as this tends to make them fit better. In general, it looks like the board is getting way too hot. Go a bit easier on it. You wanna melt the solder, not your board 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ging3rguy Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 What type of solder are you using, if you use lead solder you will not need as much heat? Also use either a small chisel or conical tip on your soldering iron and plenty of flux. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ging3rguy Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 Get yourself a conductive ink pen to fix the trace and then see if it boots up. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magicaldave Posted June 10, 2019 Report Share Posted June 10, 2019 28 minutes ago, Ging3rguy said: Get yourself a conductive ink pen to fix the trace and then see if it boots up. Man I always forget about this. Easily the best way to do it! Fiddling around with an iron is a pain especially if you don’t need to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Traace Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 Oh that board looks really burned. To much heat applied. That's also a reason why the pads got lifted. Don't worry we all started somewhere . I suggests practice soldering on any other broken or unused boards first, web guides can't give the true experience. You can also send me this 1.6 mainboard, I can probably still safe it! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magicaldave Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 1 hour ago, Traace said: Don't worry we all started somewhere . I suggests practice soldering on any other broken or unused boards first, web guides can't give the true experience. This right here. I once lifted some pads on a 1.4’s TSOP and ended up destroying all of the pads for said chip out of frustration. That console works great now with a simple modchip install. There are few, if any, repairs that are impossible. It’s just not the case. Granted you may not be equipped to figure them out or do that fix yourself... doesn’t mean they can’t be done. On that subject I have some spare boards I can send out if anyone is willing to pay shipping costs for them I have gotten my practice out of them and stole the components I cared about having. Useless to me now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VoltXT7 Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 6 hours ago, Traace said: Oh that board looks really burned. To much heat applied. That's also a reason why the pads got lifted. Noob here. For this kind of task, what's the "ideal" temperature or "range" temperature for a soldering iron ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magicaldave Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 4 hours ago, VoltXT7 said: Noob here. For this kind of task, what's the "ideal" temperature or "range" temperature for a soldering iron ? Sorta depends on your iron, but generally speaking, as low as you can go. Leaded solder should melt at 183C/361F. Two problems with this: highly depends on your solder. Go as thin as possible, I use this. Unless your iron is very expensive, it either isn’t adjustable at all or doesn’t adjust based on a specific temperature. E.G mine goes from 1-5, my solder melts just under number 3 but depending I will crank it all the way up. Flux and desoldering braid will also make your life way easier. These are just what I like, so find what works for you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VoltXT7 Posted June 11, 2019 Report Share Posted June 11, 2019 (edited) 3 hours ago, Magicaldave said: Sorta depends on your iron, but generally speaking, as low as you can go. Leaded solder should melt at 183C/361F. Two problems with this: highly depends on your solder. Go as thin as possible, I use this. Unless your iron is very expensive, it either isn’t adjustable at all or doesn’t adjust based on a specific temperature. E.G mine goes from 1-5, my solder melts just under number 3 but depending I will crank it all the way up. Flux and desoldering braid will also make your life way easier. These are just what I like, so find what works for you. Thanks for your answer. I've got the leaded solder (0.8 & 0.5) I've got the flux. My soldering iron is temperature adjustable. I only used once to fix a couple of cold solder points on my Xbox Power Supply (V 1.0) The temperature I used was 450F; according to you looks like it was a little too high. At the end, my Xbox Power Supply PCB did NOT look "burned" like the pictures above. Edited June 11, 2019 by VoltXT7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Magicaldave Posted June 12, 2019 Report Share Posted June 12, 2019 (edited) 13 minutes ago, VoltXT7 said: The temperature I used was 450F; according to you looks like it was a little too high. At the end, my Xbox Power Supply PCB did NOT look "burned" like the pictures above. Hey, it’s temp adjustable for a reason, right? I usually go closer to 450 to heat the entire area better when desoldering. A lot of that “burned” look usually is just the solder itself as opposed to the actual board. As far as working on the power supply PCB, they’re constructed a little bit differently. Essentially, it’s just a breadboard specifically slotted for the installed components. So you’ll notice there’s no solder mask on top, and I don’t believe the PSU uses surface mount components at all. Ends up being a bit more durable for this reason. Happy modding, pal Edited June 12, 2019 by Magicaldave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBoi73 Posted June 17, 2019 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 lo sorry for delay thanks for all the advice k sort of sorted but now when plugging in unit will not power up full stop? i will say that the board was in a crystal shell and i had an other unit which was already modded via tsop thingy i swapped over shell between console but i am not sure if i mixed up the power supplies somehow i will have play and see if i can swap the psu's over in the 2 units to get the above working Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ging3rguy Posted June 17, 2019 Report Share Posted June 17, 2019 Did you swap the psu as well as the motherboard, check the main supply connection are compatible? Sounds like something is connected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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