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Diy XBox AtX Adapter Pcbs


N64 freak
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Decided to post about my ATX to Xbox adapters as i've been contacted about them a couple times now.

I won't build more of them in the future as it's quite a time consuming process but you can order the PCBs and build them yourself.

The bill of materials is printed on the bottom layer and assembly is pretty straight forward too.

The solder work isn't hard to do so even a beginner is able to get it done!

 

You can order the PCBs here:

Rev1.0-Rev1.1

Rev1.2-Rev1.5

 

The ATX Port and Cables can be reused from a dead (or unused) Xbox PSU and motherboard. The end result might look like this 2 examples here:

 

IMG_0801.thumb.JPG.ca6d847d3408d9674288e2b4cf61b0e3.JPG

Edited by N64 freak
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  • 3 weeks later...
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  • 1 year later...

Hey @N64 freak, I bought some of your Rev1.2-Rev1.5 PCBs a few weeks ago.

Now I got a 1.0 a couple of days ago and I'd rather use that one for my ultra slim mod, so I wanted to ask if the Rev1.2-Rev1.5 PCBs could technically also be used for 1.0's? Looking at the pinout I don't see why it wouldn't work, but I wanted to ask if there is any difference between the PCBs apart from the Xbox connector.

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  • 5 months later...

1. So if we choose the "max 10x10 +$5" The PCBs will be the same size as the ones pictured in the OP?

2. If we order through DirtyPCBs we get 10 PCBs right?

3. DirtyPCBs link is only for the bare PCB/s right?

4. What about the copper thickness is 1oz OK?

Sorry for all of the questions but I previously purchased a prebuilt one off of you directly.

dirtypcb.PNG

Edited by finalman
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  • 3 months later...

The BOM on the backside of the pcb doesn’t state a required wattage for the resistors. The standard 1/10 watt resistors are prefectly fine.

No special higher power resistors are necessary as the logic level converter on the board is not handling any real currents but simply does level shifting.

Edited by N64 freak
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Note to N64...

Too late for me as I already purchased PCBs recently but if you update your design again you should join both of the 12v pads rather than just the one. That way if there is a poor/dirty/damaged contact using a 20pin power supply switching to using a 24pin power supply will allow access to the 2nd 12v rail.

Edited by finalman
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My mistake as I was looking at the bottom my the PCB I bought a few years ago and couldn't see the join between the two. Also couldn't see it on the dirtypcbs pictures. Turns out it's on the top of the PCB.

Edited by finalman
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