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Atx Psu To XBox Adapter


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I have decided to have a go at making my own ATX to Xbox PCB version for my Xbox in a PC case mod. What I want to know is if anyone knows where to get the female ATX connector separately as seen in red in the attached picture.

Prefer not to by the whole pico adapter just to de-solder the atx connector.

s-l1600.jpg

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19 minutes ago, finalman said:

Prefer not to by the whole pico adapter just to de-solder the atx connector.

 

You should be able to get one from Digikey

For my testing ATX to Xbox supply I repined the original ATX power supply plug and made adaptor from a old 1.2 board  to connect to a version 1.0-1.1 board.

1401274803_XboxATX.jpg.c5a42355d67a9c2ed980442bb03a6621.jpg

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
 

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So I've been reading a lot about using PicoPSUs for the OG Xbox and I've often read that most of them aren't able to supply the necessary current over the 5V line.

I've seen some people recommend the picoPSU-160-XT as it is able to supply up to 8A on the 5V line, but is that what most people use for their slim projects?

It doesn't look like there is a real consensus which PicoPSUs are the most ideal, but is there anything better than the picoPSU-160-XT? I've seen the "M4-ATX" from Minibox which is capable of providing a whopping 15A but it's not exactly small anymore.

Could anyone enlighten me on this topic?

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4 hours ago, shawly said:

So I've been reading a lot about using PicoPSUs for the OG Xbox and I've often read that most of them aren't able to supply the necessary current over the 5V line.

I've seen some people recommend the picoPSU-160-XT as it is able to supply up to 8A on the 5V line, but is that what most people use for their slim projects?

It doesn't look like there is a real consensus which PicoPSUs are the most ideal, but is there anything better than the picoPSU-160-XT? I've seen the "M4-ATX" from Minibox which is capable of providing a whopping 15A but it's not exactly small anymore.

Could anyone enlighten me on this topic?

I will be using a 160-XT in my mini build, however I will be omitting the dvd drive and using a 2.5" hdd so the initial draw will be a bit less than 13A.

I will also be removing 2 or 3 filter capacitors, I've successfully done this before albeit with a choppy boot up screen. I followed someone else's successful attempt on the old x-s forums, a quote from the person here:

"So, when searching for a replacement PSU, wattage does not really matter, what matters is how much current it can supply on the 5V line,
the xbox tends to use a lot.

I have done a lot of work and experimentation with powering Xboxes from DC-DC power supplies such as this (I even MADE my own power supply),
so trust me here.

From my tests, during normal operation, the Xbox only uses about 60 watts. This can drop even more is you are using a 2.5" HDD, no dvd drive, etc.
However, the majority of this current is on 5V, up to 8 or 10 amps.

So, according to the datasheets, the 60W picopsu Sicknasty used can actually supply more current on 5V than the 120W one, even though the 12V current
is substantially less (but if you are using no dvd drive and a 2.5" hard drive, the current draw on the 12V is next to nothing, the motherboard only
uses 12V to power the fans and one or two small chips), so it's actually a better choice for the Xbox.

But even still, the picopsu is BARELY enough 5V current to power the motherboard. The Xbox motherboard has a lot of capacitors on it to keep the
5V supply clean and smooth so the chips will work correctly. However, when the motherboard first starts up, all the capacitors are discharged,
so the PSU must supply enough current at startup to both run the motherboard AND charge the capacitors (the inrush current can be over double the
normal operating current). So, with the amount of capacitance on the motherboard, the Picopsu can't handle it and will not power up,
that is why some capacitors need to be removed.
That will lower the startup current, but you cant remove all of them because the motherboard still needs to have them there so the board works properly.

On the 1.0 and 1.1 motherboards, MS was nice enough to use a bunch of smaller capacitors all hooked together on the 5V line, so all you have
to do is remove one or two of them and leave the rest there. However, on the 1.2-1.5 motherboards, for cost reasons, they consolidated them
down into one very large capacitor on each side of the motherboard. This cannot be completely removed, else the board won't work. So, instead
of just removing it, you must replace it with one of a smaller value, such as one off a 1.0-1.1 motherboard.

Edit: @NiC_CC - Well, that psu you used (PW200-M) has the same peak current rating on 5V as the 60W Picopsu, so if that one was able to power a 1.2-1.5
motherboard without removing capacitors, maybe it's not necessary on these version motherboards, only the 1.0 and 1.1 (since the have more capacitors
on them)"

Obviously a custom psu would be preferable but that's not something i can create.

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@ShinGoutetsu yeah you also mentioned this on the bitbuilt forums, nice custom case btw!

I found some PicoPSUs on Aliexpress (here & here) that are apparently capable of providing 10A on the 5V line, the 450W ones you can find there.

But I'm not quite sure how much chinesium they used for building these since there also are not datasheets one has to "trust" that the product they sell is actually capable of what the description says. Yet I'm quite tempted to try one of these.

Edit: I also asked the manufacturer of the Nanum SE-P180Q how much it can deliver on the 5V line, and they said it can deliver up to 8A peak.
Also found the Inter-Tech mini-ITX PSU 200W which apparently can deliver 12A on the 5V line, without the DVD drive and a 2.5" HDD/SSD it should be even capable to drive the Xbox without removing capacitors, right?

Edited by shawly
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1 hour ago, shawly said:

@ShinGoutetsu yeah you also mentioned this on the bitbuilt forums, nice custom case btw!

I found some PicoPSUs on Aliexpress (here & here) that are apparently capable of providing 10A on the 5V line, the 450W ones you can find there.

But I'm not quite sure how much chinesium they used for building these since there also are not datasheets one has to "trust" that the product they sell is actually capable of what the description says. Yet I'm quite tempted to try one of these.

Edit: I also asked the manufacturer of the Nanum SE-P180Q how much it can deliver on the 5V line, and they said it can deliver up to 8A peak.
Also found the Inter-Tech mini-ITX PSU 200W which apparently can deliver 12A on the 5V line, without the DVD drive and a 2.5" HDD/SSD it should be even capable to drive the Xbox without removing capacitors, right?

I'm very wary of the quoted specs for the chinese pico style psu's, from experience of other cheap chinese items I expect them to be extremely optimistic in what they say. I suppose at the low price it might be worth a punt though.

That Inter-Tech psu does look promising though. If it really can deliver 12A (even if that's just peak, for the first 60 seconds whilst the caps charge) then no capacitors should need removing at all. Good find, I think I'll get one and give it a go.

 

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  • 1 month later...

This is great, and I agree that a 1.6 adapter would be useful if possible.  I am building an Xbox test bench and right now (mainly involving dremeling stuff off of an Xbox case, also building a sturdy area for swapping HDDs), but need to swap out PSUs for different Xbox versions.  Also I need to build a cover for the PSU area so that I don't stick my hand in there.  An adapter for 1.6 Xboxes would allow for single, safely enclosed PSU with an Xbox test bench, just a thought.

Edited by DivideByZer0
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17 hours ago, DivideByZer0 said:

This is great, and I agree that a 1.6 adapter would be useful if possible.  I am building an Xbox test bench and right now (mainly involving dremeling stuff off of an Xbox case, also building a sturdy area for swapping HDDs), but need to swap out PSUs for different Xbox versions.  Also I need to build a cover for the PSU area so that I don't stick my hand in there.  An adapter for 1.6 Xboxes would allow for single, safely enclosed PSU with an Xbox test bench, just a thought.

You should be looking at using a ATX supply as a test supply as the it is all ready in a metal box to stop accidental shocks and also a ATX is correctly Grounded/Earthed providing you are using a 3 pin power lead.

This is the red lead on a mounting screw and the black lead connected to the earth pin in the mains power point with the Xbox in standby, That is approx. 1/2 the mains voltage here.

IMG_20191211_082519.thumb.jpg.4b89f1cfcc1b3b554c43646529c61b94.jpg

Also with a ATX supply the 0 volt supply (Black wires) is connected to the mains earth system providing you are using a 3 pin mains power plug and that is a good thing in my view.

An ATX supply needs the power on signal from the Xbox inverted to power it on and the 5 volt stand by supply dropped to 3.3 volt for the 1.0 - 1.4 board,  on mine I have not used the Power Ok from the Xbox to the Power good to the ATX and it seams to work Ok.

With the supply I made I also changed the main power switch on the ATX PSU to illuminated double pole switch so it switches the active and natural AC input leads.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

 

 

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3 hours ago, corona2222 said:

electrified case 🤯 did you receive it like that?

 

Yes that Xbox is 100% stock that was just a random one I had open at the time.

And that's what is called a double insulated item with a switch mode PSU, I think if you got any AC powered item that has a 2 pin reversible connector like the Xbox or the old US 2 pin power plug you would get the same result just it would it would be around 50 to 60 volt AC for a 110 volt supply

Not only are the Switch mode power supplies deadly they emit RF interference like there is no tomorrow.

Sometimes you can also get a shock from 2 metal cased home AV items when connecting the interconnects with the power connected. I tested a brand new Home DVD and a Home receiver and got 110 volt AC (240 volt is the supply here) between the cases. In this case the DVD had a switch mode PSU and the Receiver had a liner PSU (big heavy transformer) and it had the metal casing connected to the earth pin in the power lead.

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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