XBox Won't Turn Off, No Visual Trace Corrosion

[Planktonic]

Hi guys, 

So I've got a problem just like the title says my Xbox is being weird and not turning off.

I've opened it up, removed the clock cap and cleaned up the very minimal corrosion that I could find and gave it a good scrubbing with a soft toothbrush and isopropyl, I've inspected the traces, poked around with my multimeter and have continuity happening and can't see any damage at all even under a magnifier.

But I'm getting some odd symptoms that I've read about where I can't turn it off and it opens the dvd drive.

Now the reason I find this weird is that it doesn't happen all the time, from a cold boot it's totally fine, but I lose the ability to turn it off only after the xbox has been on for about 30 minutes.

Wondering if you guys can think of any other things that could be the problem?

Thanks!

[Xbmcmodsforxbox]

huh weird i have never heard of that that is pretty weird

[Gray1]

I am gonna go ahead and say this but you probably already know it. When a clock cap on a V1.1-V1.5 goes bad it usually leaks acid, it runs to the front of the board and run over and underneith to the bottom traces. The traces run almost all the way accross the front of the board on the bottom. With this problem thats the traces you should be looking at and maybe you are. Take a magnifying glass and check those out real good. It only takes a small break. If that is what your doing and there are no breaks then I have no idea what else it could be. Reguards

[KaosEngineer]

These are the four (4) traces running along the front edge on the bottom side of the motherboard.

IIRC, the outer two carry the power and eject button signals respectively from the front panel to the always-on System Management Controller (v1.0-1.5 - PIC processor or v1.6 - custom Xyclops chip) and the next two are the green and red front panel LED control signals to drive transistors that turn on/off the eject ring LEDs.

For information on troubleshooting, see http://diy.sickmods.net/Tutorials/Xbox1/Power-Eject_Pinouts/

Edited March 5, 2019 by KaosEngineer

[Ging3rguy]

Found this article that might be useful http://fillwithcoolblogname.blogspot.com/2011/02/1st-gen-xbox-trace-corrosion-repair.html

[KaosEngineer]

While the Xbox is disconnected from AC power, use a multimeter to test continuity of the traces from the associated PIC processor pin to the pull-up and signal current limiting resistors.  Then, from the front panel switch to pin 2 of the front panel connector on the motherboard.  Test the switch to make sure it's not broken, etc.

A v1.6's pull-up resistor setup is a bit different. This version of the console uses 5Vdc instead of 3.3Vdc as the always-on standby voltage supply and a 20KOhm and 10KOhm resistor are used to form a voltage divider to drop the 5Vdc level to 3.3Vdc. One leg of 20KOhm resistor is tied to the 5Vdc standby voltage level. The other side connects to a 10KOhm resistor which then connects to ground.  The voltage divider equation is:

(20K/(20K+10K))*5Vdc = 3.33Vdc

So, the connection between the 20KOhm to 10KOhm is 3.33Vdc.

Source: http://web.archive.org/web/20120121023414/http://diy.sickmods.net/Tutorials/Xbox1/Power-Eject_Pinouts

Edited March 8, 2019 by KaosEngineer

[cryptblood1986]

I fixed a 1.6 with an eject button not responding issue by doing this.