Jump to content
OGXbox.com

Unknown error lights


evilduks
 Share

Recommended Posts

Tried to turn my Xbox on, it attempted to start 2 times and stayed on the 3rd with blinking orange/green lights at the same time (half orange, half green) and no A/V output. It is a 1.1 and I have removed the clock cap and jumped some trace rot that was causing it to turn on whenever it was plugged it, but the flashing and lack of A/V out persists. I have a reddit thread that has video of the error lights and shots of the main board and power board before clock cap and trace repairs. I am stumped. I cannot find that error anywhere and I don't have much experience diagnosing Xbox problems. Any help would be great.

 

Edited by evilduks
Left out some information
Link to comment
Share on other sites

One of the current limiting resistors must be damaged or missing on the motherboard or a wire disconnected from the motherboard to the front panel. (Flashing orange but the right side's RED LED is not coming on.)

There's a signal for the RED and the GREEN LEDs coming from the PIC processor to turn them on / off. These signals go to two transistors that power the RED and GREEN LEDS on both the left and right-hand side of the front panel Eject ring.  The output of the drive transistor goes through two separate current limiting resistors.  One for the left and right side tri-color LED's green and red half.

When ORANGE, both the RED and GREEN LEDs are lit.

 

Front Panel Connections to SMC (pin numbers corrected).jpg

Edit: Make sure the resistor that connects to pin 7 of the FPIO connector is present and not broken on the motherboard and that the wire to pin 7 is still connected.

spacer.png

Source: http://web.archive.org/web/20180818113253/http://modzone.dk/forums/showthread.php?threadid=252

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

33 minutes ago, evilduks said:

How could that be causing no A/V out or the error? Or do you mean that it may be intending to flash orange, but one side's red LED isn't lighting?

 I believe it is flashing ORANGE; however, the right-hand red LED is not working.

 

Edit: Is the exhaust fan running at full speed too?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I think it is. It has only run at one speed with each of the errors regardless of the time left running or if it was fully in its case. I've cleaned the whole board with 91% isopropyl and a toothbrush and rinsed the area around the removed clock cap with the same. Do you think it's the ADM1032 at U6F1? My issue kind of matches up with this thread, but with an LED signal issue confusing me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Do you have an oscilloscope and/or multimeter?

 

You need to take a look at the output signal voltage levels from the PIC processor, SMC in the above schematic, that control the RED and GREEN front panel LEDs. 

SMC Signal Pin Numbers

  • POWSW - 18
  • EJTSW - 5
  • LEDR - 2
  • LEDG - 3

874833380_PIC16C63Pinout.png.068938171a2dc3c3a0d123e34a207e58.png
PIC Processor Pinout

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a multimeter, but not much experience using it. What pin/s do I measure for the input or am I looking for the voltage difference between the output and ground.

Sorry for all the questions, but we've gotten well outside of my areas of knowledge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just now, evilduks said:

I have a multimeter, but not much experience using it. What pin/s do I measure for the input or am I looking for the voltage difference between the output and ground.

Sorry for all the questions, but we've gotten well outside of my areas of knowledge.

To measure the voltage level present on a pin of a device, (e.g., the PIC processor), connect/touch the positive probe of the multimeter, usually the red insulated wire lead, to the pin the signal is on and connect the ground/common, black insulated, lead to the RF shield of the case. Since all voltage readings are referenced to the power suppy's Direct Current (D.C.) ground  level, a more permanent type of connection, alligator clip, for this lead is suggested.  The ground connection is being kept without having to always hold onto it. You can then easily move the positive probe between various points of interest to take measurements. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, KaosEngineer said:

SMC Signal Pin Numbers

  • POWSW - 18
  • EJTSW - 5
  • LEDR - 2
  • LEDG - 3

874833380_PIC16C63Pinout.png.068938171a2dc3c3a0d123e34a207e58.png
PIC Processor Pinout

I got these results

POWSW 3.21V

EJTSW 3.27V

LEDR bounces around rapidly. Max is 3.18V, min is 0.12V.

LEDG is doing the same as LEDR.

Does this confirm your suspicion of a bad resistor before pin 7 of the button/LED board?

Edited by evilduks
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/7/2023 at 8:48 PM, evilduks said:

I got these results

POWSW 3.21V

EJTSW 3.27V

LEDR bounces around rapidly. Max is 3.18V, min is 0.12V.

LEDG is doing the same as LEDR.

Does this confirm your suspicion of a bad resistor before pin 7 of the button/LED board?

Your multimeter may not react fast enough to track the alternating LED on (3.3Vdc) / off(0Vdc) voltage level driving the flashing LED.

Next, you need to check the voltage level at the base left side pin of the two PNP drive transistors by the front panel connector.  I believe one may be on the top and one on the bottom of your motherboard.  After that, the voltage level on the collector, bottom pin without the arrowhead, in the schematic. Then, past the TBD labeled resistor for each LED on the motherboard that connects the front panel connector.  Then, through the connector wiring to the front panel PCB's connector and finally at the Anode of each LED.  These tri-color LEDs are common Cathode - the shared pin between the two LEDs in each package that connects to ground.

775718269_FrontPanelConnectionstoSMC(pinnumberscorrected).jpg.0422b2efe177e5aefb72db230a8bb178.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ah, I see where I messed up.  I thought both the MMBT4403LT1 and MMBT3906LT1/LT1G were labeled the same - 2T; however, they are not.  MMBT3906's are labeled 2A and MMBT4403's are labeled 2T.  Both are PNP transistors and will work.  

The MMBT3906's continuous collector current rating is -200mA while the MMBT4403's is -600mA.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 6/9/2023 at 2:39 AM, KaosEngineer said:

LED PNP Drive Transistor Pinout

1670186182_OnSemiconductorMMBT4403LT1.JPG.cf71a1120e8ec2a2ee46bc96df3bcf33.JPG

I got 3.30V on pin 2 for both, alternating 3.3V to 2.5V on pin 1 for both, and alternating -4V to 2.5V off pin 3 for both

R3V1 (pin 8 ) -3.8V - 1.8V 

R3V4 (pin 7) -6.1V - 2.5V

R2G9 (pin 5) -2V - 1.7V

R2G10 (pin 6) -2V - 1.7V

Mainboard pins 

5) -2.7V - 1.4V

6) -3V - 1.5V

7) -3.5V - -2.5V

8 ) -3V - 1.8V

Similar numbers at the panel PCB connections.

At the LED connections

5) -3.5V - 1.7V

6) -3.8V - 1.6V

7) -2.6V - -2.3V

8 ) -2.5V - 1.8V

Edited by evilduks
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

Board Life Status


Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.