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Xbox 1.6 not working


Mattia99
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Hi everyone! After much hesitation I decided to replace the capacitors in my Xbox 1.6 ... well it didn't go as expected. The 3300uf caps were a pain to desolder for an unknown reason and I lifted 4 pads in total (the positive of C1F2, both pads of C1G10 and the positive of  C6G3). So, initially I didn't know that I made such a disaster and the console FRAGged with alterating green/red light after attempting to booth two times with green light and also no video. Troubleshooting I noticed that the dvd drive didn't want to open unless I unplugged it from the IDE cable and that no error was showing even with only the motherboard and psu connected. As adviced by some kind guy on Reddit I checked the joints of the 3300uf caps and I discovered what I did with the pads. The same guy said that in order to repair the traces I had to connect the positives of C1F2 and C1G10 toghether an then to one of the legs of the coil above (L2F1); the negative of C1G10 to ground an finally the positive of C6G3 to the positive of the cap next to it (C6G2).

Done all that the Xbox doesn't boot anymore. When pushing the power button there is a soft buzzing noise. So I decided to check the voltage of the 220-240V Delta PSU. I found that the voltage doubled: orange is 10.3V, red 10.3V and yellow 0.5 in stand by and 24.8V when pressing the on button. I also tested the transistor next the clock cap and it says 6.3 V.

What can I do? Please help me, I don't want to lose my cherished xbox. Thank you in advance!

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The Xbox main board is a 3 layer design and ripping the caps out would have damaged the middle trace.

If you really want to know that inductor (L2F1) is the 1.7 volt supply to the CPU/GPU

 

PXL-20230330-235725646.jpg

 

Your Motherboard is toasted

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
 

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48 minutes ago, Prehistoricman said:

Test the voltage on a battery that you already know the voltage of (like a fresh PP3) to make sure your meter isn't lying to you.

It's not a flat battery and the meter is not lying!!

This meter is around $1100Aud

PXL-20230331-011102899.jpg

 

And the Oscilloscope still fetches $600 to 800Usd

PXL-20230331-010858297.jpg

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
 

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8 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

The Xbox main board is a 3 layer design and ripping the caps out would have damaged the middle trace.

If you really want to know that inductor (L2F1) is the 1.7 volt supply to the CPU/GPU

 

PXL-20230330-235725646.jpg

 

Your Motherboard is toasted

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.
 

I checked on mine and it says 0.2V

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1 hour ago, Mattia99 said:

I checked on mine and it says 0.2V

That inductor is connected to the transistor Q2F1 and Q1U1 and it's  job is to reduce 5 volts down to 1.7 volts based on the resistor network R2E2,3,4,5,6,7,9,11 next to the CPU.

I would highly suspect the two reducers are also toast along with the four ram chips.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

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3 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

That inductor is connected to the transistor Q2F1 and Q1U1 and it's  job is to reduce 5 volts down to 1.7 volts based on the resistor network R2E2,3,4,5,6,7,9,11 next to the CPU.

I would highly suspect the two reducers are also toast along with the four ram chips.

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

Thank you for your precious informations. I used a different multimeter and now the voltage is correct for the psu but still 0.2 for the inductor and the transistor near the clock cap is 3.3v so it was the previous multimeter at fault. The 3300uf caps are shorted. If you said that it is toasted I think that there is nothing more that I can check and it is not repairable. If I find another 1.6 xbox can I swap the motherboard an use the dvd drive that I have? It is a Philips and works like new.

 

Thank you again

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17 hours ago, Mattia99 said:

Thank you for your precious informations. I used a different multimeter and now the voltage is correct for the psu but still 0.2 for the inductor and the transistor near the clock cap is 3.3v so it was the previous multimeter at fault. The 3300uf caps are shorted. If you said that it is toasted I think that there is nothing more that I can check and it is not repairable. If I find another 1.6 xbox can I swap the motherboard an use the dvd drive that I have? It is a Philips and works like new.

 

Thank you again

Can you test this part.

The red arrow should be 5volt and the yellow should be 1.7volt

PXL-2023.jpg

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

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20 minutes ago, SS_Dave said:

Can you test this part.

The red arrow should be 5volt and the yellow should be 1.7volt

PXL-2023.jpg

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

 

Hi! Where points the red arrow it shows 5V, the yellow 0.

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27 minutes ago, SS_Dave said:

Is that reading after you have pressed the power button? and did you change the 3 caps next to the heat sink?

Before and after gives the same values only a 0.1 of difference for the yellow point. The 3 caps near the heatsink are new. I recapped all the board before the disaster.

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10 minutes ago, Mattia99 said:

Before and after gives the same values only a 0.1 of difference for the yellow point. The 3 caps near the heatsink are new. I recapped all the board before the disaster.

Are the caps next to the heat sink the same direction as in the pic I posted?

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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I would say it's beyond economical repair  

5 volt in too components that are normally supposed to run less than 2 volt is not good

There is a really slim chance it's just that transistor that shorted and stopping the Xbox from working. A test would be to lift the leg with the yellow arrow and do a résistance test from ground to where the leg was. You should get reading that starts from around 30-50ohm and increases the longer you keep the meter connected.

If that happens then you could try and replace that transistor, But in saying that I don't think you have the experience or soldering equipment to perform that sort of job.

Was this Xbox modded?

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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On 3/30/2023 at 4:58 PM, Mattia99 said:

The same guy said that in order to repair the traces I had to connect the positives of C1F2 and C1G10 toghether an then to one of the legs of the coil above (L2F1); the negative of C1G10 to ground an finally the positive of C6G3 to the positive of the cap next to it (C6G2).

I checked on my board and L2F1 doesn't connect to the C1F2 cap. You need to remove that connection.

If that doesn't fix it, can you post pictures of your soldering?

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23 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

I would say it's beyond economical repair  

5 volt in too components that are normally supposed to run less than 2 volt is not good

There is a really slim chance it's just that transistor that shorted and stopping the Xbox from working. A test would be to lift the leg with the yellow arrow and do a résistance test from ground to where the leg was. You should get reading that starts from around 30-50ohm and increases the longer you keep the meter connected.

If that happens then you could try and replace that transistor, But in saying that I don't think you have the experience or soldering equipment to perform that sort of job.

Was this Xbox modded?

So I tested the point that you said and it gives around 0.6 or 12 ohms on a 200 scale depending on the multimeter I'm using, so it's nowhere near to your values. 

Well about experience, I'm learning and this is the first project gone bad, I had much more luck with crts and other consoles, maybe because they had less layers of pcb. Well if it wasn't for the bad advice that it was given to me on reddit this would have ended differently for sure since the missing pads were not so a big problem, only the outer pad fell off.

Yes the xbox was softmodded.

18 hours ago, Prehistoricman said:

I checked on my board and L2F1 doesn't connect to the C1F2 cap. You need to remove that connection.

If that doesn't fix it, can you post pictures of your soldering?

Yes it is correct but unfortunately I discovered too latethat the advice given was incorrect. I tried with a new connection, supposedly correct but it doesn't work even removing it.

I warn you, the soldering job on this connection is bad and ugly but it was just to try if it worked. The other caps are soldered with good shiny joints that attach perfectly to the pads. 

The photos are not so good, in person the look much better.

20230402_101402.jpg

Edited by Mattia99
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2 hours ago, Mattia99 said:

Yes the xbox was softmodded.

I would start looking for another mother board and you can reuse the DVD drive, PSU and case, If you get another version 1.6 it will drop in.

Unfortunately unless you have a backup of you eeprom data from the old MB re-using the hard drive is a bit more involved.

If you have the eeprom data file you can unlock the hard drive using Fatxploer v3.0 beta and then relock with the eeprom file from the new mother board, The other option is to swap the eeprom from the old MB to the new MB.

Quote

So I tested the point that you said and it gives around 0.6 or 12 ohms on a 200 scale depending on the multimeter I'm using, so it's nowhere near to your values. 

I think it's time to bite the bullet and start looking for another Mother Board

 

 

Cheers

SS Dave


Soft modding is like masturbating, It gets the job done but it's nothing like the real thing.

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2 hours ago, SS_Dave said:

I would start looking for another mother board and you can reuse the DVD drive, PSU and case, If you get another version 1.6 it will drop in.

Unfortunately unless you have a backup of you eeprom data from the old MB re-using the hard drive is a bit more involved.

If you have the eeprom data file you can unlock the hard drive using Fatxploer v3.0 beta and then relock with the eeprom file from the new mother board, The other option is to swap the eeprom from the old MB to the new MB.

I think I'll buy a complete 1.6 with a bad shell and just use it as parts for mine after modding and upgrading the hdd.

Thank you again for your precious answers.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Unfortunately, that board is beyond economical repair. I mean, you could possibly keep going through testing individual components but, you'd be best to sell it as a parts board (there is demand) and get yourself another 1.6 board.

 

If you're going with a 1.4 board, you'll need a 1.4 power supply as well as removing the metal tab for shield and a bit of plastic right by the screw hole near(ish) to the video port

Edited by Lina_Inverse_
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