Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Magicaldave

Frag? V1.0 XBox

Recommended Posts

Hey all! 

 

I’ve got a couple Xboxes in the office I’m trying to renovate and maybe get back up and running. They seem to be in pretty terrible shape. 

 

This post is primarily about my 1.0, but I also have a 1.1 that boots up three times and instead of standard red/green, it flashes orange and does not power off with the power button. Clock cap leaked, too. A lot.  I replaced a few capacitors nearby as they looked bad too but same deal. I cleaned the board three or four times with rubbing alcohol, it looks pristine - can’t find any bad traces. I haven’t looked at the P/E board yet; could this be an issue?

 

 

Anyway, main part of my post:

 

i have a 1.0 Xbox that seems like it’s FRAG’ing but not quite. It turns on - no video - and after a bit, the front LED flashes green. After a bit of this it goes to red/green, still no video. 

 

I haven’t cleaned this one yet, but I have taken a look at the board and can’t find any super obvious problems. Clock cap does look to have leaked a little bit, but a quick cleaning and removal did nothing to fix it. One of the vias nearby looks as if it may be burnt. I’ve attached photos of the entire board here, I hope someone knows or spots something here I wasn’t able to. These boxes deserve good homes!!!

 

Quick edit: this box has never been modded, not was it even opened before I started trying to fix this issue, warranty stickers and all. From the writing on top it looks like she gave out on the previous user and made its way from their garage sale to me.

52449F55-D4CE-4468-AB8C-0D03482CE212.jpeg

8D875631-1376-4F4D-9ACB-4982FE7715CE.jpeg

9493B4BE-EC99-45B1-BF96-E8FC9DAC6267.jpeg

361D0D0F-008E-4BDD-88AD-68CC574F9F27.jpeg

2DD82AA2-0D29-4BD3-9FCE-2A02E373A496.jpeg

F8C4DF29-7CBA-4C26-9B5F-0B1B4A23A2EB.jpeg

D6AEF884-8456-4471-A37B-757D52D9CCC1.jpeg

D8ADA11B-7E8E-4EFD-AA40-353B5026A2E6.jpeg

7BA088BE-9775-4FE7-8426-786E9BC8089B.jpeg

BDE6CF80-844A-430C-A232-EC75C040D7F4.jpeg

Edited by Magicaldave
Additional info

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For the 1.0 with the weird startup problem and no video.  It could be a problem with part of the BIOS in the TSOP flash chip.  The 1.0 and 1.1 have a 1MB flash memory chip that holds 4 copies one after the other.  The actual BIOS is only 256KB bytes.

Adding a wire or two to force an Address line low to load from one of the other banks can sometimes make such a comatose console boot properly.

One of the old Xbox resellers posted information on their site now long gone but the Wayback Machine (archive.org) has a capture of that web page.

The Wayback Machine capture of llamma.com's Please login or register to see this link. .

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Leaked electrolyte can damage the 4 very thin traces on the bottom side of the motherboard that carry the power and eject button closures and red and green front panel LED control signals to the System Management Controller (an always powered on PIC processor).

2YESah9.jpg

See: Please login or register to see this link.  for information on testing and repair.

Edited by KaosEngineer
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Front panel LED error codes:

error_lights.png.cb8ced111845d4ae9cdfa38b1ea65724.png

The FRAG (Flashing Red And Green) condition, next to the last line, the fault condition of Digital Core error is a bit cryptic but means any major system component failure CPU/GPU/BIOS/other caused the system to fail to boot. Therefore, this error is displayed on the front panel eject ring.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, KaosEngineer said:

For the 1.0 with the weird startup problem and no video.  It could be a problem with part of the BIOS in the TSOP flash chip.  The 1.0 and 1.1 have a 1MB flash memory chip that holds 4 copies one after the other.  The actual BIOS is only 256KB bytes.

Adding a wire or two to force an Address line low to load from one of the other banks can sometimes make such a comatose console boot properly.

One of the old Xbox resellers posted information on their site now long gone but the Wayback Machine (archive.org) has a capture of that web page.

The Wayback Machine capture of llamma.com's Please login or register to see this link. .

Amazing! Second, third, and fourth BIOS banks allow it to boot properly. 

 

Except then it displays another red/green code, this time apparently for hard drive. Goes to service screen with no error, although drive is spinnging. I have an Xecuter chip laying around somewhere I think I can fix that with. 

Edit: I’m not entirely sure this drive is dead... seems to spin fine although does make a weird noise when starting. Should ai just go straight for a swap here or could there be more to the drive?

Edited by Magicaldave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Update again: followed the doc above for my 1.1. My multimeter doesn’t test continuity, unfortunately, and I think I fried the resistor measurements on a previous attempt (live circuit.) however, I was able to measure a little bit of voltage going end-to-end on both the power and reset lines on the top of the board. 

All four resistors are present and don’t look burnt out or damaged. 

I followed all four traces on the bottom of the board straight up to the SMC and they look great! There was one part of the power line that almost got damaged but it looks like I removed the clock cap before it reached the power line. Still, I retraced about an inch of the power line around section 7. No change. I’m gonna try to pop the SMC from my 1.0 into this system and see if it boots. 

 

 

Update:welp, SMC swap mostly went okay but did nothing. I’m at a loss. 

Edited by Magicaldave
Update

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, I gave up on the 1.1 and scrapped it’s TSOP, SMC, and RAM chips for later use in case I need them. But the SMC swap killed my 1.0 I just saved. It actually FRAGs now. Three reboots and all. 

 

I accidentally removed a few extra components from the board on the SMC swap and attempted to resolder them. This seems to have worked but the Xbox is still dead. Attached are some after pictures. If anyone could help I’d really appreciate it. My 1.1 didn’t have much hope but I just fixed this damn thing...

 

 

Also, here’s a list of the components onboard I lost: R6C1, R6C2, R6C3, C6C2, 50, C6C1, and C6B11. A couple of these were knocked loose from their original homes, and one (50) was sourced from the 1.1 board. 

 

I have a loose component I can neither identify nor find on the 1.0 board which is black and has the text “089” in white letters. Perhaps this is the culprit?

 

thanks again! -Magicaldave

image.jpg

image.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Decipher Xbox Silkscreen Labeling 

First letter - Component type: 

R = resistor
C = capacitor
U = integrated circuit
RP = resistor pack
Q = transistor
etc.

The next two a digit then a letter are the quadrant determined by the sections marked on the edge of the board.  thus the board is divided into a grid and components inside that square are labeled one after the other.  

The last digit is the device number for each component of a specific type found inside a particular grid section numbered consecutively (e.g., R6C1 to R6C6 are the labels for the five resistors found in grid section 6C).

R6C1 and R6C2 look important.  From the thick trace on one side, I'd say a power supply voltage applied to that side of the resistor.  

R6C1 & R6C2: label 101 = 10 x 10^1 = 10 * 10 = 100 Ohms

Please login or register to see this link.  

C6C1 C6C2 and C6C3 look like decoupling caps.  

From google.com: A decoupling capacitor's job is to suppress high-frequency noise in power supply signals. They take tiny voltage ripples, which could otherwise be harmful to delicate ICs, out of the voltage supply.

They are most likely 0.1 microFarad.

Pin 20 of the PIC processor, VDD, is connected to 3.3Vdc standby power that is always on when the Xbox console is plugged into AC power.

C6B11: Also is most likely 0.1uF cap but in a smaller SMD package.

50 What part is that in the picture?

Are you talking about the 50 you see printed next to the RAM chip. That label is for the pin number at that corner of the chip, not a part.  I don't think there is a part labeled 50. 

The RAM chips, Samsung K4D263238M-QC50, have 100 pins, You can see other numbers around the chip.  Pin 1 is indicated by the white dot next to the part number (e.g., U6D1) with other pin numbers going counterclockwise around the chip.  Around U6D1 I see 20, 40, 50, 60, 80 and 100 indicated near the particular pin of the chip.

089 - What does it look like? Post a picture of it, please.

Does it have many pins or only the two ends like the other resistors on the printed circuit board?

If a resistor, it would be 08 * 10^9 = 8GigaOhms.  

 

Edited by KaosEngineer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Took a closer look at the board, “50” is actually C6C9. Didn’t think 50 seemed right... 

 

the 089 resistor is pictured above as R6C6 and R6B8. Not sure that was actually the problem. I looked the board up and down about a dozen times and could only find four, two on each side, around pin 30 on each RAM module. 

 

The 1.1 I scrapped has three left, so I guess I was just being kinda clumsy and the resistor ended up in my parts tray? 

 

I tried rerunning some of the components and lost a pad, so I ended up creating a really miserable bodge to pin 53 to fix the ram errors I was getting, so it’s a mess now but that data line works okay  

 

The voltages on pin 20 of the PIC are good but I’m not sure what to do with this. I followed the trace for a while and it just goes under the PIC? 

 

R6C2 gets 2.6V as do a lot of the caps nearby. It splits that into 1.33V, then R6C1, C6C2, C6C3, and C6D3 receive this current and all seem to split it again into 12.6mV. 

 

C6C1 does the same with 3.3V from the PIC, as do C6B11 and C6C9 with the 2.6V they receive.

Unless I’m reason these voltages wrong everything here looks fine? I checked nearby capacitors and resistors for similar function and got exactly the same measurements. There is even a similar array of resistors/capacitors at R5F1 which measures the same. 

 

I tried to to follow the source of R6C2’s power onto the other side of the board, but it seemed not to go anywhere. I realize this board is multilayer so am I just not seeing the trace?

 

Edit: I’d thought about installing the mod chip I originally planned to use to fix the hdd, and this gave me the idea to test the lpc port. I dug around the forums and found each of the pins on the lpc port seems to deliver the right voltage but pin 5 only shows 175s after the console stops rebooting instead of 3.3V. Peaks at 2.1 while the system is restarting, is this maybe something to look at? The name LRst leads me to think it’s related to restarts somehow but it doesn’t seem to get quite the right voltage even when that’s the case.

 

5183FD64-8EB5-47F6-93EA-097B35D57168.jpeg

659A542B-BEF7-4CAA-BFE1-2097A9E30AF5.jpeg

CFFF57A3-65CF-4C96-8F03-5EE2AFB464A1.jpeg

Edited by Magicaldave

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/4/2019 at 1:17 AM, Magicaldave said:

Took a closer look at the board, “50” is actually C6C9. Didn’t think 50 seemed right...

The SDRAM chips use 2.5Vdc and C6C9 is most likely a decoupling cap tied between Vdd and GND - 0.1uF as are many other caps around memory chip.

Not sure what voltage spec would be used.  All the SMD caps on the board may use the same voltage rating be it for 2.5Vdc, 3.3Vdc, 5Vdc or 12Vdc decoupling - 16V. The same cap can be used for any decoupling location on the board without being tied to a different rating for each supply voltage level.

Edited by KaosEngineer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 2/4/2019 at 1:17 AM, Magicaldave said:

C6C1 does the same with 3.3V from the PIC, as do C6B11 and C6C9 with the 2.6V they receive.

C6C1 is a decoupling cap for the Vdd supply at pin 20 of the PIC16LC63A microprocessor.

Update: Not sure why the different sizes of SMD decoupling caps if they are all 0.1uF. The larger ones hold more charge or what...?

Edited by KaosEngineer

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not much of an update, but I did manage to change the behavior somewhat. I replaced the original PIC thinking maybe there was an issue with compatibility or just bad installation, and also reflowed some of the nearby ICs in case there was an issue there. 

 

First time I powered the system on, just shorted the power pin and it stayed on. No reboot. Okay...

 

Came back a few minutes later and powered it on, then it rebooted once. 

 

Third reboot, it’s back to rebooting three times. 

 

At this point I’m only working with the board so I hooked up a P/E board to see what the LED is doing. Solid green the entire time. No G/O as for missing cable, no G/R for missing drive and whatnot. 

 

Thought this his might be an extension of the original corrupted BIOS (removed my bodge wire just in case) and replaced the wire on back... and my PSU exploded because I accidentally sat it on some desoldering braid. 

 

Sigh. I have an extra PSU and fortunately the board looks okay, but it’ll be a day or two before I can get at my parts. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

Board Life Status


Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
  • Similar Content

    • By Xbmcmodsforxbox
      Hey everyone does anyone know how to hookup a nes or snes controller to a og xbox
    • By thePiratePimp
      Here's my tower of power

      My pure White #0108/1000 "Dreamcast"

      Here's my Hulk (came before the Dew's no matter what people say)

      Most of my controllers

      Orange Xbox Live Controller

      Please login or register to see this link.
      Please login or register to see this link.
      Please login or register to see this link.
    • By RMM
      While tinkering with my Ndure softmodded Xbox, I have managed to mess something up with the files on the hard drive.  I now get error 21.  I'm not too concerned as I was sure to back up the eeprom.   What I would like to do is use something like xboxhdm to build a new hard drive but have the softmod files included when the hard drive was being built.  This way I simply put the hard drive in and I dont have to go through the process of softmodding all over again as it was included when I built the hard drive.  From there I will probably just go ahead and TSOP flash the Xbox to make any future issues easier to deal with.
      What would be the easiest way to do something like this?
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.