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Howdy. 8 years ago I bought my OG xbox and tinkered with it a bit - but never really found the time to really delve into it. I was confused by how it would boot differently with the power and eject buttons, I think I had attempted to softmod it before I realised it had a modchip installed and that was why it was doing different things with the different front buttons. I think at the time it might have booted with both buttons but I can't fully remember as it was so long ago. Cut forward to 2024 and I finally had some time to look into it so am trying to get help with the various issues I've encountered. Firstly, it would only boot with the eject button. The power button would go to an EvoX logo but then a black screen. The eject button would load into UnleashX dash. When inspecting the board I noticed some bulging and a leaky cap, so bought a cap replacement kit (as well as a clock cap) to do a recap. I've only a tiny bit of soldering experience so it's a little daunting but I hope I'll be fine with it. I've only soldered a wire in my old NES to make it region free so far, so a complete noob at soldering. I also had planned to replace the thermal paste, as well as the stock fan and run power off the HDD power cable, and upgrade the stock HDD to a 250GB PATA I have handy. I assume I need to redo the HDD to get rid of the softmod. But the fact that the power button doesn't boot worries me a little about that part of the process. I don't have a replacement fan yet so was going to do that later on. Today I opened her up to begin the process of replacing thermal paste and attempting the recap, but I forgot that there was a wire connecting the front buttons to my modchip. I must have accidentally pulled this off the pad when removing the drives to access the motherboard. I have read that you suggest to solder this to the chip itself so that it is permanently enabled, however will this cause me issues down the track since my modchip wasn't booting correctly with the power button? Also the wire used for this was SUPER thin. I have some thicker wire I used for NES to ground the pin on the region lock chip to disable it. Would that work ok to use instead, if I removed the existing wire? Should I just re-solder the eject/power button first to reduce potential issues with testing it out after recapping, replacing HDD etc? I forget which pad it was soldered to. Top left corner of the back of the front panel buttons I think? I can't seem to find instructions online. How should I go about trying to get the chip working - just try installing the new HDD and that should get rid of the soft mod? If I do need to flash the chip, how should I go about that? Sorry for lots of questions, just completely new to this process.

I installed the Origins based image and upgraded to 128MB of RAM. Also added an SPDIF port for digital audio. If you would like it, please make an offer. Thanks guys

I softmodded a series of XBox OGs in a marathon week but discovered an issue with model v1.6 and dualboot not working. All versions below seemed to work ok. Anyone else have this issue? Thanks

I have an unmodded japanese xbox (rev 1.0) with a dead HDD. I also have a working HDD from a USA xbox (rev 1.6) that has a softmod on it. If I extract the eeprom from the xbox with the dead HDD, can I use fatxplorer 3 to unlock the working softmodded HDD, then relock it with the extracted HDD password from the eeprom? Or would the xbox not read the new HDD because the model and serial numbers don't match the original eeprom? I've found one tutorial on how to setup the new HDD with the extracted eeprom but that tutorial uses a spare xbox and will format/clear the new HDD, which I do not want since it's already formatted correctly and has a lot of games on it. Any help would be appreciated

I can only join Insignia online after I run the MS Dashboard network troubleshooter and IGR back to Unleash X and launch a game to play online. My configuration is the same for both MS network and Unleash X network settings. I wish to keep Unleash X if possible and in worst case scenario keep doing what works. I am running another router as a wireless bridge client. What is Auto-Detect under network settings in Unleash X? How can I get Insignia to work without running MS Dashboard network troubleshooter every time? Enable Yes Type Static IP Address 192.168.2.4 Subnet mask 255.255.255.0 Gateway 192.168.2.1 DNS 1 46.101.64.175 DNS 2 8.8.8.8 Auto-Detect Yes

I've made several .cut files to launch Doom Wads to play, But now I've got a weird problem where the last file doesn't load in this cut: <shortcut> <path>F:\Homebrew\Odamex_v0.7.0\odamex.xbe</path> <label>DOOM II [A]</label> <thumb>F:\Homebrew\Odamex_v0.7.0\default.tbn</thumb> <custom> <game>-waddir "D:\IWads;D:\PWads\_Addons\Doom 2 Minor Sprite Fixing Project v2.0;D:\PWads\_Addons\Vanilla Smooth Weapons\Extra Fixes by Community\Scuba Steve Fix;D:\PWads\_Addons\Vanilla Brightmaps" -iwad DOOM2.wad -file D2SPFX20.WAD D2DEHFIX.DEH vsmooth.wad SoftFX_32in24_15_tex_v2_cleaned.wad HEADL0_SoftFX.wad</game> </custom> </shortcut> If I move the HEADL0_softFX.wad before SoftFX_32in24_15_tex_v2_cleaned.wad then that loads it, but the last file being "SoftFX_32in24_15_tex_v2_cleaned.wad " doesn't loads. Switching them vice versa only results in the last file not loading. Which is making me think that there's a file limit for the parameters. Here is a preview of the directory of those last files on my XBox: Is this a .cut limitation or Odamex's 0.7.0 limitation in reading the parameters?

I’ve been running into issues left and right after swapping from and OpenXenium with the HD+ to Nemesis Xenium. I finally got everything up and running fine and seemingly no issue at all with the swapping. Updated to the latest PrometheOS and HD+ firmware before the swap. I can play around in Prometheos as long as I want, doing FTP, flashing banks, etc. As soon as I load into Cerbios HD I get the normal XBMC login screen, but that’s as far as I can get. It freezes almost every time I attempt to sign in. Once I was able to login, but it froze when I clicked on apps. I’ve done a full reformat and reinstall of everything. Also have made sure I’m running the latest XBMC4Gamers. I was trying UDMA 6 and then tried UDMA 5 on a brand new 2TB HDD, with the same results. Anyone else ever run into something like this? This is happening on my precious Skeleton that I’ve slowly been trying to get done.

So peeps, The metal RF sheilding in your xbox's, do you keep yours, throw it, paint it or something else?? I used to throw mine away if they were rusty but just recently I have painted a couple and I am pleasantly surprised with the results. Here one where I used a Canary Yellow... Will be adding a yellow ring of light to this one and swapping out the power leds for yellow too. This box currently has red leds in the control ports too. Might change those to yellow too....

Hey everyone, I'm having a problem with an original xbox that will turn on, with a solid green light for a second, then turn itself off. Then back on with an orange blinking light, then turn itself off and on again until finally staying on with a blinking orange light with it's fan running what I think is full power (haven't confirmed this). I can open the disc tray when in this state, but I can't power the xbox off unless I unplug the power from the back. I opened up the xbox. I believe it's a v1.2 motherboard. It was in pretty good condition I thought considering the original owner said it sat in a closet for the past decade or so. This xbox was not modded. I read that an orange blinking light could mean the xbox was overheating, which would explain the high fan speed. So I removed the old thermal paste, and added new thermal paste, put it back together, plugged it in, and the same issue is happening. I have tried a brand new A/V cable and power cord that I bought on amazon and that didn't seem to make a difference. Does anyone know what an orange blinking light and this sequence of powering on and off mean? I can't find good documentation on it anywhere. I'm also looking to try anything else at this point if you have any recommendations. Here is a link to a video of the symptoms described above and some pictures of the montherboard. Thanks for any help in advance! https://imgur.com/a/7hMZWFn?

I think I got lucky. I was looking for an Xbox below 1.6 to do a RAM upgrade on. I found one with the X3 front switch panel for the same price as any old Xbox without it. Just got it and it turns on. The chip turned out to be the newer CE version. But it's installed with the Xapt3r adapter. In https://command-tab.com/static/x3_ce_v10_v16.pdf there is an image of the standard kit: The parts that came with this Xbox are 1, 2, 3, 4 and 7. If I want to solder it I will need 9 also. That I can make myself from one of the scrap headers I have. But what is 8 and 10? My guess is that 10 is irrelevant. Is 8 for some drive activity led flashing? Is it available to buy somewhere?

Hi Everyone, i'm currently offering these replacement cables in an effort to bring back to life as many original xbox Microsoft branded controllers as possible! This cable includes a 5 pin connector so it has all of the data lines that the xbox cable uses. It's a simple replacement, just de-solder the existent pin connector, and put this in it's place. This is a full length cord, includes the breakaway, ferrite cores, strain relief etc. It can also be used as a replacement on most (maybe all) of the cheap aftermarket controllers if you want to be able to use sit further from your monitor/TV. The new connector inserts vertically, the old one lays on it's side, this has no effect on the shell. There is one other difference i will point out for complete transparency. The original xbox controller uses 5 data lines, and has 1 chunky stranded line of shielding that is soldered as a 6th pin. These do not have that 6th pin. For comparison, the cheap aftermarket controllers use 4 pins in their wiring (missing the yellow wire), have no breakaway cable, and are only 5-6 feet in length. These ship from the US, and currently listed at $5.99 per cable. I do have a shopify store for easy payment options, but will not link that here until i have permission to do so. If you are interested, please drop a comment and feel free to PM me. Bulk rates are an option, just have to figure out the best method of shipping whatever qty it is you may be interested in.

I believe I seen a Reddit post couple days ago by KaosEngineer touching on this topic the post was sometime back, I'm wondering if it's practical today to even attempt or even flash an pc optical drive. I am aware that you can of course get parts from other consoles.. I asked this out of curiosity as I lack the information and experience on the topic.

Hi I wanted to use the xeniumprogrammer on one of my chips. It runs fine until the Verify part of the flash memory, I have looked for shorts and nothing out of the orinary. Everything seems fine.

Hi all, I have recently acquired a hardmodded crystal 1.6 box from a popular online auction website, which has with a 200gb hdd. I opened it up and gave it a good lean as it was pretty disgusting! Literally spiders inside. It has an Aladdin XT hardmod, I don’t know when it was installed. Current dash is EvolutionX V+3935. I had a good poke around in EvoX settings, it states that it has unknown BIOS. Says the same in Xbox BIOS checker 5.0. I can’t see anywhere to backup EEPROM (I read that this is important) – do I need to do this? There are no options that I can find in EvoX that will allow me to backup. There are various apps, including XBMC, Avalaunch, etc. Should I just delete them? If so, how? The app ‘Xenium’ when loaded states “You have a Cloned Fake Xenium” – what does this mean? I assume that the BIOS is out of date and so is the dash. I read that UnleashX and Xbox4Gamers is the best combo to have. How can I update to these please? Thanks in advance all!

I have a 1.4 with a flashed TSOP on Cerbios running XBMC4Gamers. First symptom I noticed was a half-second complete video and sound blackout every so often which wasn't too intrusive, but I had other boxes to play on, so never thought too much about it until now when I've started using this box again. I'm not getting the half-second drop-outs like before but what I am getting is really stuttery FMV playback. It's a bit weird in that it plays game preview videos OK, but once I start a game, any video sequence playback is all stuttery - like a record skipping every second or two. The gameplay itself is flawless. I swapped the HDD into another system and it played fine while the other system HDD had the same issue in the problem box. When I got this particular system it looked almost like brand new - and still does, and looking at all the caps, they look in pristine condition. Does choppy video playback point to anything in particular to anyone?

i have a skeleton black that would not boot from the tsop (was never opened so just the tsop went bad). i stuck it in my t48 programmer and it gives me pin detect errors, so i took a tsop off of a parts 1.1 and sure enough it reads without issue, i was comparing the k4034 image on the chip to other 4034 images and it is slightly different, just want to know if it is infact the stock 4034 kernel on the chip or if it is some other bios on it. i've attached the dump from the donor chip [email protected]

Hi all, After the Google problems were fixed I was finally able to download the video previews for the artwork manager and while they look perfect, the sound on them is distorted. Is there any special settings on XBMC4Gamers regarding that? Do you experience the same? I'm on a PAL Xbox. Thanks,

Hello Xbox friends. I plan to play Shenmues 1 to 3 (father of all open world games by Yu Suzuki and SEGA) on macOS and Windows and want to use a controller that's as close to the Dreamcast as possible (I understand the Xbox is popularly known as the spiritual successor of the Dreamcast with Microsoft collaborating on Windows CE on the Dreamcast), also I like that it's big and won't cramp my hands but will an Xbox 360 USB breakaway cable work with the Xbox "Duke" controller flawlessly? Do they have the same exact pinouts? Thank you in advance. God bless, Revelation 21:4

Hey guys. So I'm working on a softmod and I wanted to try the dual boot with different dashes, and controlling the boots with eject and power. Any help would be much appreciated.

Hi does the spi2par2019 for the xenium work with the newheaven oled? or should I stick with a normal lcd? OLED-Modul Gruß

I haven’t worked on this one in a week or so but I pulled it out last night to see what was up. Here’s what it does: It will boot fine and run for hours with no issue. If you reboot or turn it off after a certain point you’ll get a solid green light but no video. It will recognize if you’ve pulled the av cable out but when you plug it back in there’s still no video. Once you get to the no video stage you can’t even make it frag. I pulled the dvd and hdd out both separately and together but nothing changed. It will boot to a game during this time though. The odd part is if I unplug it and let it sit for ten mins I’ll have video again until a reboot or shutdown. If I let it sit overnight it’ll work and you can even reboot or turn it off and on successfully for a bit. While it was working today I decided to do rocky5’s softmod. That worked fine as usual. I bring this up to note this. When it goes to the no video stage it won’t even boot far enough to the led to orange like rocky5’s softmod does. When it has video it does this fine. I’ve tested voltages, replaced cables, caps, etc. The problem still persists but I at least know more about it and can recreate the issue. Any thoughts? I’m leaning towards failing/bad bios. I’m curious if throwing a hard mod on it would remedy the issue. @Bowlsnapper this is that weird one you and I talked about briefly a couple of weeks ago.

I installed and Open Xenium mod chip and the MakeMHz XboxHD+ HDMI mod in my old 1.6 Halo SE Xbox, along with a cheap SSD. I initially had everything running, & was able to boot into the EvoX dashboard as well as play games. Once I put all the case screws in & set it up, it booted normally once. After that boot, any other attempt was met with 3 failed boots followed by flashing red and green. I disconnected all the wires, reconnected them, and tried again. Again, 1 normal boot followed by endless FRAG results. Like in Greyleaf's thread, my Open Xenium chip doesn't light up at all with the FRAG boot attempts. I am a soldering novice, having only completed a Boxy Pixel GBA SP Unhinged build and GBC build. I did get some recommendations from a fried for better flux partway through the mod. I accidentally lifted a pad on the HD+ ribbon cable, but I ran a small wire to the trace farther up the cable . My first attempt to solder the cable had some issues. I completely removed & resoldered it. When the system boots, I do have functional video output. If I remove my Open Xenium chip from the pin connector, it boots into an error 16 page (I guess no surprise with a modified dashboard & unlocked drive). I replaced the clock capacitor and reflowed the solder for the Open Xenium. None of this has solved the issue. I also made a Reddit thread when I started troubleshooting. I think I've written the important details here, but it's there if I missed anything important. Summary: 1.6 Xbox Halo SE Delta DPSN-96DP PSU Open Xenium mod chip MakeMHz XboxHD+ HDMI port SSD upgrade I'm a novice Successfully boots once after reassembly (so far at least) Second boot attempt leads to 3 boot attempts then FRAG No lights on Open Xenium chip during failed boot process Normal lights on XboxHD+ during failed boot Disconnecting Open Xenium mod chip gives error 16 boot screen Looking for any troubleshooting help. Thanks.

Reposted with pics on Imgur: https://imgur.com/gallery/rH19myY I need help flashing this corrupt Bios chip on my Og Xbox. Unfortunately this is the only way i can reflash it, as i attempted to flash it but forgot to bridge the points now my Og Xbox only works with a modchip. I got around to picking up a programmer TL866II Plus with Xgpro v11.90 Flasher tool. But i keep getting a pin detect error. I first tried it with a new exact replacement chip using a TSOP 40 adaptor. Then ended up losing that chip. And desoldered the one from the motherboard. I also removed the cold solder from the adaptors and added some fresh new high quality solder with flux to make sure that isn’t the problem. I socketed it into the slot and no luck “Pin detect error”. I then ordered another adaptor this time without a socket and i soldered on the bios chip. I also redid the solder joints, as the ones on that adaptor were dull aswell, and no luck. I picked up the correct or the closest settings on the Xgpro v11.90 software. I tried TSOP 40 Hyundai and Hynix HY29F080 with no luck. It yet again gives me a “Pin detect error”. I even tried auto detect and it says chip not supported. On the chip it says Hyundai HY29F080T-90, but i can’t find that exact model number on the menu. Could that be the issue or is it something else. I have no idea as this is my first time using a programmer. And saw a video or two on how to use it.

i, like many others, started having problems with my xbox after replacing the thermal paste. graphics glitching, freezing, frag'ing, and sometimes it would just go into a coma on me. it appears that the problem is that some of the solvent for cleaning the thermal paste gets underneath the gpu chip and causes a short. 1st off, i do not recommend replacing the thermal paste on these consoles but if u already have and are now having problems then here is how to fix it. get a bottle of 91% rubbing alcohol with a squirt top on it(i suggest a quart bottle), hold the motherboard on it's side, and squirt the alcohol all over it. be certain that plenty is going under the gpu. next, take a hair dryer and dry the board very well. be careful not to get it too hot. a good rule of thumb is that if any part of the board is uncomfortable to lay your hand on and keep it there, then it is too hot and should be allowed to cool. next, sit the board in the xbox, hook up the psu, connect a tv and power on the system a few times to be certain that it appears to be working before full reassembly. BE CERTAIN TO REAPPLY THERMAL PASTE AND HEATSINKS BEFORE POWERING ON! i'm not certain that it will overheat the chips without the heatsinks for a quick test but it isn't worth the risk. this fixed my xbox that i was concerned i had forever killed.

I have the Aladdins. I made the jtag cable with 3.3v output utilizing a USB blaster. I managed to get the drivers installed in windows 11. I have the XBlast Aladdin svf file. I have quartus. I have a tl866II. I have the SST flash adapter for the xgecu. I have 1mb flash chips. I should have the software installed for the SST flashing. I have everything. Just don't know how to use the software. Tried urjtag and it just gave me bullshit errors and I don't wanna fuck with it. What do I do? @sweetdarkdestiny @KaosEngineer @SS_Dave @ModzvilleUSA