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About Me

Found 12 results

  1. I think I got lucky. I was looking for an Xbox below 1.6 to do a RAM upgrade on. I found one with the X3 front switch panel for the same price as any old Xbox without it. Just got it and it turns on. The chip turned out to be the newer CE version. But it's installed with the Xapt3r adapter. In https://command-tab.com/static/x3_ce_v10_v16.pdf there is an image of the standard kit: The parts that came with this Xbox are 1, 2, 3, 4 and 7. If I want to solder it I will need 9 also. That I can make myself from one of the scrap headers I have. But what is 8 and 10? My guess is that 10 is irrelevant. Is 8 for some drive activity led flashing? Is it available to buy somewhere?
  2. I'm so proud so far I'm a totall newbie to soldering but i just did my first succesfull total refurb of a transluent 1.4 box (full recap mobo, powersupply and DVD player, new cooler paste & pin header mod chip install) and it still works hahaha but i'm unable to find the location where the D0 cable needs to be soldered to the 1.4 mobo (i believe its called the Xbox motherboard D0 point) to let the Openxenium chip to work fully. I know i'm probly overseeing this but is there a picture where i should solder this to the the mobo? i see a lot of 1.0 and 1.6 YT clips but none for the 1.4 Thanks !!!
  3. Hey everyone. So, I find myself in a unique situation. I will try to break down my problem as simply as possible: ::I have an S-Type (small) Original Xbox controller with a bad cable. I only have this one controller. ::I do not have a breakaway cable to connect the controller to the Xbox, BUT I have an Xbox controller port to female USB port cable. (pictured here: https://ibb.co/wJTTYfL ) My question is this: could I desolder the Xbox controller cable from the controller board and solder on a USB cable with a standard type-A (male) USB connector to connect to the Xbox, through the pictured-above female USB port?
  4. I'm thinking about buying a proper temperature controlled, all bells and whistles solder station which will likely get used for Xbox stuff more than anything so I'm looking for recommendations available in the UK/EU. Budget up to about £150. I'd prefer lower but I'd go slightly higher if there was good reason. Reliability, longevity ie. well built/well designed and likely to last a long time are my main buying criteria. However if it includes a hot air gun in the package I'd definitely be swayed.
  5. Hey all. Sorry if this has been posted, but I searched and couldn't really find anything. I have a 1.0 Xbox that was handed to me by a friend. He said he couldn't remember much about it, but that him and his kid tried to mod it a long time ago, and now it isn't working. Upon opening it, I found a pin header, no modchip, tsop points soldered, and the underside D0 pad ripped off. When I try to start the xbox, it cycles power 3 times then frags out. I'm assuming this is due mainly to the ripped D0 trace. I've tried repairing the trace, and bridging the two pads connected by the green line, but I can't seem to get the solder to stick. Is there any other way to repair this, or is this the only way? Relatively new to xbox modding so any tips would be appreciated. Thank you!
  6. From what I can tell I butchered my r7d3 pad on the top of the 1.0 board. The bottom pad I did fine but I'm looking for the alternative now. I was looking at the pictures but just can't tell where to place the jumper now. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I linked a picture where I think I can and a picture of the board .Thanks !! From what I can tell I butchet d my r7d3 pad on the top of the 1.0 board. The bottom pad I did fine but I'm looking for the alternative now. I was looking at the pictures but just can't tell where to place the jumper now. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks !! http://imgur.com/gallery/EDufPoH http://imgur.com/gallery/ZkWBmNA
  7. Hi guys, I recently attempted an Aladdin XT plus modchip install on my xbox V1.0. Other then trying to suck out the solder from the LPC ports, the process was relatively smooth. When I first went to boot the box, the Aladdin instantly smoked hard so I it off. At the moment I'm trying to figure out whether it was my install error or a faulty chip. When I remove the chip and boot the xbox, it boots fine and normal. As soon as I add the chip back on, which doesn't smoke anymore, the xbox FRAGS. I tested the LPC pins and didnt get any continuity between ones I shouldnt have. I then tested to make sure the 5 and 3,3 voltages were still good and they were. I was gonna test each individual pin and see if maybe Im seeing 5V/3.3V where I shouldnt, but other then that I'm not sure if it was the install, but instead just a faulty chip. I bought it from Modchipcentral and I've gotten good stuff from them before. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
  8. hi all just a quick tip for those wanting to tsop but cant solder and dont have any conductive paint cut 2 tiny squares of copper tape (slug tape) about 4mm square, then cut 2 pieces of insulation tape about twice as big, stick the copper tape in the centre of the insulation tape dont try to peel the backing off the copper tape its too fiddly the plastic tape is sticky enough. make sure the shiny side faces out, now take these two conductive "Bandaids" and stick them on the tsop points, make sure they are stuck well and reassemble the xbox. run bios checker to make sure its flashable, if you were successful it will tell you your chip type and say tsop in brackets, flash your chip with your bios of choice, i recommend removing the "bandaids" after flashing, as this is temporary if you leave them they could come off and short something this wont work for sharp type chips due to the extra wire, but i flashed a 1.4 today as an experiment and it worked. alu foil might too though iv'e not tried it.
  9. I have completely taken apart a 1.0 system and removed the clock capacitor, cleaned the CPU, GPU and both heat sinks and reinstalled them with good quality thermal paste. I intend on TSOPing this system. I know it has to be soft modded first. I’d like to solder the two points on the board to unlock write capability of the EEPROM while the system is apart. Is it okay to do this , then put the system back together, do the Softmod and finally the TSOP flash? Or do I have to put the system back together and do the Softmod before I solder the points on the board? Thanks for your help.
  10. I rebuilt the LPC port on my Xbox v1.6 today and had kind of a tough time with it, so I'm curious what everyone else uses to mod their consoles; type of wire, flux, solder, soldering iron/station, soldering tip, soldering temperature, cleaning solution, etc. I used some 30AWG wire-wrapping wire from Amazon, an Aoyue 937+ with the fine tip that came with it, RadioShack rosin flux paste, and RadioShack 62/36/2 rosin-core solder. I've soldered quite a few 0.1" headers on microcontroller and FPGA development kits with great success, but their pads were like twice as thick as those on the Xbox's LPC port. I had a hell of a time getting the pads to heat so that the solder would flow nicely. I also ended up burning the solder mask in a couple of places where I left the tip on too long trying to get the pads heated. Fortunately it still seems to work, but the joints look pretty bad. I think part of the problem was the fine solder tip, but I didn't have much luck with a chisel tip either.
  11. Quick_Solder_Install.pdf

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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