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Found 8 results

  1. Hi I'm currently doing a lpc rebuild on a 1.6 og xbox and I've managed to lift the trace on the trace near R7P4 does anyone know if theres somewhere else on the board I can pick this up? Thanks in advance.
  2. Jargon Buster TSOP - IS THE ONBOARD CHIP THAT BOOTS THE MS BIOS , YOU WILL WANT TO BOOT FROM THIS FOR XBOX LIVE. LPC - THE HOLES WHERE THE MODCHIP CONNECT TO THE MOBO USING WIRES OR PINHEADER OR QUICKSOLDER METHODS. FRAG - FLASHES RED AND GREEN. THE XBOX IS TELLING YOU SOMETHING IS WRONG AND IT CANNOT BOOT POSSIBLY DUE TO POOR SOLDERING. BOOT - WHEN THE XBOX LOADS A BIOS AND STARTS UP THIS PROCESS IS CALLED BOOTING. BIOS - THE PROGRAM THAT IS STORED ON THE MODCHIP OR TSOP. IT'S EITHER MS OR HACKED (EVOX OR X2). PIN HEADER - 2 ROWS OF PINS THAT YOU SOLDER INTO THE LPC HOLES AND THEN SIMPLY PLUG YOUR CHIP ONTO IT. MOBO - SIMPLY MEANS THE XBOX MOTHERBOARD. D0 - THIS IS A LITTLE VIA ON THE TOP OF THE MOBO OR A SMALL PAD ON THE BOTTOMSIDE OF THE MOBO THAT WHEN GROUNDED PREVENTS THE TSOP BOOTING. VIA - A VERY SMALL LITTLE CIRCLE. YOU WILL NEED PRACTICE BEFORE YOU CAN SOLDER TO THESE. YOU CAN AVOID THESE ON EARLIER MODELS BUT NOT ON A V1.6 EVOX DASHBOARD - AN ALTERNATE DASHBOARD FOR THE XBOX THAT HAS A MENU TO LOAD GAMES , FLASH YOUR BIOS ETC. NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH EVOX BIOS WHICH IS DIFFERENT AGAIN. EVOX DASHBOARD IS MADE UP OF A NUMBER OF FILES THAT YOU TRANSFER ONTO YOUR HARD DRIVE OR A CDRW. THE LATEST VERSION IS 3935. EVOX BIOS - A HACKED BIOS FOR THE XBOX , IT ALLOWS YOU TO PLAY BACKUP GAMES AND RUN COOL APPS LIKE EVOX DASHBOARD. THE LASTEST BIOS IS M8 PLUS. X2 BIOS - A HACKED BIOS FOR THE XBOX , IT ALLOWS YOU TO PLAY BACKUP GAMES AND RUN COOL APPS LIKE EVOX DASHBOARD. THE LASTEST BIOS IS 4983. HOT SWAP - THE NAME GIVEN TO THE TECHNIQUE OF BOOTING THE XBOX WITH ONE MODCHIP (WITH THE LID OFF AND THE DVDROM TURNED AROUND THE WRONG WAY) AND THEN UNPLUGGING THE MODCHIP FROM THE HEADERPIN AND REPLACING IT WITH A BLANK ONE OR ONE THAT HAS HAD A BAD FLASH AND THEN FLASHING THIS CHIP. FLASHING - PROGRAMMING A BLANK CHIP OR REPROGRAMMING A CHIP WITH A BIOS FILE. SPIDERCHIP AND ALADDINS NEED A 256K BIOS. DUOX2 NEED A 512K BIOS. ALSO V1.6 XBOX'S REQUIRE THE EVOX M8 PLUS V1.6 BIOS. OTHER MODELS CAN USE THE X2 4981 OR X2 4983 BIOS. FLASHBIOS - A SPECIAL BIOS THAT ONLY LETS YOU DO A FEW FUNCTIONS. (WONT PLAY BACKUP GAMES). ITS MAIN PURPOSE IS TO FLASH YOUR MODCHIP WITH A HACKED BIOS. LOCK - LOCKS A HARD DRIVE SO THE MICROSOFT BIOS AND DASHBOARD WILL BOOT. THIS IS NEEDED FOR XBOX LIVE. UNLOCK - UNLOCKS A HARD DRIVE FOR USE IN A PC. YOU MUST UNLOCK A XBOX HARD DRIVE BEFORE IT CAN BE USED IN A COMPUTER.
  3. Hi guys, I recently attempted an Aladdin XT plus modchip install on my xbox V1.0. Other then trying to suck out the solder from the LPC ports, the process was relatively smooth. When I first went to boot the box, the Aladdin instantly smoked hard so I it off. At the moment I'm trying to figure out whether it was my install error or a faulty chip. When I remove the chip and boot the xbox, it boots fine and normal. As soon as I add the chip back on, which doesn't smoke anymore, the xbox FRAGS. I tested the LPC pins and didnt get any continuity between ones I shouldnt have. I then tested to make sure the 5 and 3,3 voltages were still good and they were. I was gonna test each individual pin and see if maybe Im seeing 5V/3.3V where I shouldnt, but other then that I'm not sure if it was the install, but instead just a faulty chip. I bought it from Modchipcentral and I've gotten good stuff from them before. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks
  4. So my friend and I are trying to replace the front panel LEDs with RGB LEDs using a separate microcontroller. We were able to read the status from the current front panel so we can react to error codes properly, so it isn't just a "dumb" LED replacement with an external controller. Our next goal was to send commands over the SMBus to the Arduino (Nano, ATmega328P) we use to control the RGB LEDs. I customized the XBMC code to send data to the new address I defined for the Arduino, in our case we used 0xE9. Since the Wire library of the Arduino already shifts the bits, we set the Arduino's address to 0xE9 too. The thing is, the Xbox sends the signal, but the Arduino isn't reacting to the given address. We already tried to analyze the signal and we can confirm that there is data being sent through the SMBus. OFC we wired up SDA and SCL correctly, we checked twice and since the logic analyzer is able to sniff data, it should be correct. Has anyone ever tried this yet? I've seen a couple of threads talking about controlling Ambilight over the SMBus but it seems like nobody has tried it yet. I guess we are doing something wrong, but we haven't yet figured out what it is that we are missing. Next thing would be buying a proper logic analyzer, but maybe somebody here has some experience and could lead us in the right direction before we spend the money. Is there any more documentation on the SMBus of the Xbox out there? I've just found the documented stuff on the xboxdevwiki. Thanks in advance!
  5. hi i have been given a v1.0 and someone removed a chip refilled lpc and and all box does if frag is there any v1.0 lpc diagrams available thx in advance
  6. LPC diagnostics (v0.1) Tutorial written by : milingo Last edited: August 5, 2004 Note: Tutorial is for Xbox v1.0 to v1.5. LPC has most points unlinked on Xbox v1.6+ LPC diagnostics, i.e. how to use a multimeter to check a funky LPC or broken traces without losing your faith. My dear (de)solderers, in my search for mod-knowledge (and misadventures with FRAGging 'boxes) I found a lot of misinformation, or better partially incorrect infos, regarding the dreaded LPC. I started organizing these infos for myself but, as the whole scene is about sharing knowledge, I decided to trim the rough edges and write a document out of it. I found it necessary because well known forums disregard 3-letter word searches (like PIN and LPC) and when you're at your first attempt with soldering and end up for the 3rd time with a FRAGging 'box you tend to forget words like PINS, LCLK, LAD0,1,2,3 and LFRAME! My work is 90% forum reading and 30% trial and error, (yes i know it's 120%, but even in nice forums like the one we have, a good 20% of infos you find are bill$h*t). One more thing, you'll find stolen photos and diagrams in this doc. I tried to use watermarked ones so I hope it's clear it's not my work, anyway if anyone feels ripped offended or generally pissed off by it, well... write me and I'll redo the images from scrap. Just one more thing, as many of you have already understood, English is not my mother tongue, so before flaming me please try to understand the concepts underneath! (if you find a sentence particularly awful, write me and I'll try to rephrase it, but things are really quite simple.) How to use a multimeter for voltage and resistance (ohms) testing: A. Voltage testing (cheching cold joints...) 1 You need to select on the voltmeter (or multimeter) the V scale DC current, set it to 10/20 (not lower than 10!) cause maximum voltage to measure is 5,0 volts, and we don't want to fry it (modern voltmeters are protected but you'll never know what kind of grandpa's voltmeter someone can come out with...) 2 You need to switch the 'box ON, remember that you have to access the LPC on the mb so hd and dvd must be peeped out of the case or removed completely (but take note that it will FRAG anyhow if you don't keep the discs connected and powered). 3 Put one tip (black one usually) on a ground like the screw near the LPC (or pin 2 of the LPC, but it's easier a farther point). 4 Push firmly but softly and with a steady hand the red stick in the hole you want to test, or keep it pressed against the pin you want to check (just remember not to touch more than 1 pin at a time otherwise you'll never know which one are you reading... ) 5 Read on the voltmeter your current. This is my friend the LPC A good working LPC, and a nicely installed pin header, should roughly read, for me it's always a bit lower (as far s is 10% near the number it's ok): picture by ozxmods.com Pin Name Voltage 1 LCLK 0.2V * 2 GROUND 0.0V 3 LFRAME 3.3V ** 4 doesn't exist! 5 LRst 3.3V 6 VCC5 5.0V 7 Lad3 3.3V 8 Lad2 3.3V 9 VCC3 3.3V 10 Lad1 3.3V 11 Lad0 3.3V 12 GROUND 0.0V * not 3V, if you want a precise reading switch the scale to 1-2 V) ** on V 1.3+ 'boxes (0.0V it's disconnected) Common misinformation I found in the forums "...all pins should read 3.3V except pin 2 (0.0V) and pin 6 (5.0V)..." as you see pin 1 and pin 12 do not read 3.3V... B. Resistance testing (checking trace continuity...) 1 Select the ohm scale on your Multimeter (or Omega greek letter, the one like a reversed U, like the watch brand if it still exists) 2 Keep your 'box OFF, there's no need to risk to fry it... 3 Put one point (it's the same which one) in the pinhole and the other in a corresponding check point (see image white lpc point goes with grey eye-point, like the d0, on the mb) 4 In a circuit like this with little resistance, if trace is ok the ohm-meter should read nearly 0, if it's broken or messed up it shall read a high number say 1 This is a useful photo that pinpoints back of the mb with the lpc pins and corresponding check points. picture by baldbouncer.co.uk Somebody wrote in a forum this image has one grey check point wrong. Please help me find the culprit (if any)! Really this image has the points differently/oddly numbered but I'm too lazy to redo it right now so I enclose this translation table Rightfully numbered LPC pin Baldbouncer's Image numbering 1 1 2 11 3 2 5 3 6 10 7 4 8 9 9 5 10 8 11 6 12 7 Just be sure to double check before you start swearing!! Well that's it. My friend I hope it's been useful. Cheers! Your friend Milingo If you need to contact me try thru xbox-scene forum.... Version 0.1 (any corrections are welcome!) Tutorial written by : milingo
  7. I have a LPC Rebuild Board called the OXC LPCorrectr. I have included the files needed to have it made and it’s completely open sourced. .6 thick OXC_LPCorrector_v2.zip
  8. As we know, v1.2-1.4 Xboxes don't have an easily-accessible LFRAME# signal, so modchips work on the assumption that the southbridge will never abort a cycle early by asserting LFRAME# and driving 0b1111 onto LAD[3:0]. That may be true for memory read cycles, but what about memory writes and I/O read/write cycles? Besides a timeout (which shouldn't happen anyway if long wait states are used), is there ever a case where the MCPX might abort an LPC cycle? EDIT: I may have posted this in the wrong section. I need this info for a hardware mod, but it might be better suited in the Modchip or General forum. Sorry about that.

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