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Found 7 results

  1. I am really glad I found this forum website. Last year when I started modding most of the content I found online was so outdated. Somehow I missed this website. Are unopened and unmodded XBOXs becoming more and more rare? Well, I suppose I know the obvious answer to that question - yes. My real question is to the professional collectors. What is your opinion on breaking of the stickers on and opening up suspected rare XBOXs? Do you do it when you get one to inspect for dust and corrosion or is it more important to a collector to keep the stickers intact? Aside from obviously rare limited edition XBOXs what version(s) 1.0-1.6b are the most rare? One would think 1.0 XBOXs are the most valued and desirable. Are 1.0 XBOXs desirable to collectors? Are certain versions 1.0-1.6b becoming more desirable or rare than others?
  2. So there are some things I'm trying to figure out and having a hard time with, due to old, contradictory, or lack of info out there, and I'd greatly appreciate any thoughts. For reference, I have one each of v1.0 and v1.1, both with Xecuter 2.6 Lite chips. If caps require replacement (not the clock cap), are there any known to have special requirements for ripple or ESR? I'm thinking regular polymer electrolytic caps from Rubycon or Nichicon would be fine? Is there any reason to use FlashBIOS instead of XBlast? Assuming they're both stable, it looks like XBlast outright has more features. Are the FlashBIOS/XBlast web flashing interfaces reasonably safe to use? Without exploitable games or an Xbox/USB adapter, would the best way to TSOP flash a modchipped Xbox involve FTP backup of C&E, mod the backup with ndure, FTP it back to the Xbox, and turn off the modchip, then flash TSOP from the softmod dash? Can Xblast be flashed to TSOP safely? I've seen posts arguing both ways. If it can, could Xblast on TSOP be used to flash a modchip, if the chip is turned on after booting?
  3. Very new to Xbox modding here, hopefully this isn't too general of a question for this section but I wasn't sure where else to ask it. Are there huge differences between mod chips to have so many different types or do they all essentially do the same thing just with some bells and whistles to set them apart? I just bought an xbox with a chip on it already(I believe it is an xecuter2) but plan on buying more to mod multiple xbox's. I guess I just wanted to know if I can do the same general thing with all chips or if certain chips can only do certain things.
  4. My issue is that out of all the games I have, probably only every 4th or 5th game actually launches. The rest just go from whichever dashboard I am using, to a black screen, then back to the dashboard without running at all... The screen flickers a bit but stays black and its always the exact same amount of time. Now if its a working game, it works. It loads instantly, no waiting, and it has no glitches or crashes. First the specs: Xbox v1.0 with a OpenXenium modchip recently installed. I am running 3 different dashes (mostly as incremental troubleshooting steps, not to complicate things). The first is a softmodded UnleashX using Rocky5's latest. 2nd boots using M8+ bios to XBMC. 3rd boots to EvoX also using M8+. I upgraded to a 2tb drive and copied over all my original roms, plus a hdd ready set I found on the usual places. I had done a power fix on the motherboard traces and removed the clock cap after it burst(no corrosion), but that was while it was softmodded for the last 13 years, and its never affected the ability of games or applications to run from disc or hdd Troubleshooting: I've done all the usual troubleshooting steps like trying both my Component and Composite cables, and forcing resolutions from 1080i down to 480i. I've attempted to launch all the roms using "launch as NSTC" or "launch as PAL" (forcing PAL-60), and setting regions to auto or default. I've also read that softmods and hard mods don't like working together, so I reformatted C and put back clean C files for the original MS Dash. I did not clear out the UDATA or TDATA folders on E, but I wouldn't suspect that to affect launching specific games. I routinely clean out the drive cache folder, and I have plenty of space free on all my partitions. I've tried running the games from UnleashX, Evox, XBMC, and game mgr in DVD2Xbox. Thinking perhaps it was just the hdd ready set I obtained was partially bad, I tried getting some redumps of a few of the non-working games. I XISO'd them using dvdmulleter, burned them to dvd-r, then ripped them to the xbox hdd using DVD2Xbox(patching and ACL processing enabled). I also tried Qwix to ftp over files from XISOs. Originally I had FTP'd over the entire 2tb hdd ready set using FileZilla using Binary, but these few games I was testing I must have transferred dozens of times for testing making sure it was set binary and that the xbe's were patched first. Those redumps function the same as the hdd ready set. Black screen, then back to dash. Very consistent... if the game will run, it will run no matter how I get it onto the box. If not, then black screen. Where I launch them from has ZERO affect. All my original rips on the hard drive (made by me over the last decade while the box was softmodded) still function fine, including original discs, and maybe 20% of the hdd ready set. Are there some basic step I've overlooked in the modding process? I am new to this OpenXenium modchip. Is there some other bios I should try, either newer or older like M7? It feels like this old v1.0 xbox may not be liking all this newer software and hardware, but thats just my desperation grasping at straws. Any questions, help, or suggestions? I felt like this was the best place for this thread, but I'd be happy to ask a mod to move it or start a new one in the correct forum if "games" is not the best place for it.
  5. is upgrading the hdd the main reason for doing a tsop flash/modchip? will a basic softmod allow me to ftp and install dlc and do basicly everything but upgrade the hdd?
  6. We all know Rocky5's work on Chimp to update it and make it as user friendly as possible and it is but I'm still discovering a few new things about using it and Chimp in general which maybe useful. This all refers to something I was doing earlier today: trying to clone a softmodded retail HDD to a 2.5" 80GB IDE HDD I'd bought for an old that laptop that died before it was fitted. The thing has been sitting around for years factory sealed and as I had a spare Xbox I'd done little with except softmod it made sense to use it for that. Bought an 2.5" IDE to 3.5" adapter and a 3.5" bay adapter too. Using the final version of Chimp 261812:- 1). Despite several attempts swapping the IDE cable to the new HDD whilst Chimp was running the 2.5" HDD was not recognised. I went back to my normal technique: swapping it on the main UnleashX dash. That did work eventually however the the swap had to be clean and fast. I had several failures. That is unlike most HDDs (IDE and SATA) I've used Chimp with before where you can take your time. Possibly caused by the 2.5" to 3.5" IDE HDD adapter. 2). The jumper settings - I'll admit I forgot about this first time as I assumed it was set to Cable Select. It wasn't. Chimp loading screen just froze. When it twigged I'd made that embarrassing boo boo I used a jumper from the pack of 25 I have. Long story - I eventually realised the jumper to set it to Slave was actually loose and not actually bridging the pins. The jumper pins on the 2.5" IDE HDD are a slightly different shape and may be slightly thinner. Whatever the reason the jumper had to be modified to ensure it was connecting both pins. 3). Next problem encountered: Chimp's GUI was green not the normal white on blue background. Now I know Chimp works and displays perfectly using an RGB SCART cable on my other softmodded Xboxes so what was the problem? Answer seems to be: this Xbox is a v1.6 with the Xcalibur video chip. Tested and confirmed - used the same cable with a v1.4 - no problem, using a SCART adapter ie. not RGB worked fine with both but with RGB SCART plus v1.6 the green display problem returns. Another v1.6 oddity and annoyance. 4). Finally had everything set up and working correctly, cloning took about 7 mins in total. Locked slave or so I thought but something made be check the status again and it was shown as unlocked. It was, I tested it and got an error 7. This is where I have a slight issue with Chimp 261812. Before when you scanned the connected devices Chimp would show the full status of the slave drive. That has been pruned down just to show locked status. Only after the clone when you come to lock the HDD do you get the full information screen and at that point you assume everything is OK and click to lock it without really reading anything there. That was a mistake because when I realised the locking had not worked I took more notice and saw that the HDD was shown as one that can not be locked. I tried from the MB (my normal choice) and using "TEAMASSEMBLY" too. No joy. The Seagate Momentus ST980815A 2.5" IDE HDD apparently can't be locked on the Xbox. Never had a HDD that could not be until now. Not wasted time, I did learn something but certainly a disappointing ending.
  7. Hey guys, I’m new to the forum. Up til now I have only softmodded Xboxes, and it has been quite a while. I haven’t had an Xbox for the last couple years and I decided I miss them. So, I picked one up a couple days ago. It is v1.1 and have already softmodded it. I also picked up a 2TB HD, SATA adaptor, and 80 wire IDE cable. But I’m thinking that before putting the drive in, I’d like to try TSOP flashing it, then doing a clean install with HeXEn 2018. I have a small list of questions, hopefully I can get answered first. First, I read somewhere on here (I think under the HeXEn 2018 post), that some of the bios have the dvd check turned off by default. So this is going to sound dumb but, will it still boot from dvd (for HeXEn?) Second, I know I have a 1mb TSOP (mine is the ST.) Can someone recommend a bios? I don’t plan to use more than one, Third, I’ve heard that after you TSOP flash, you should remove the jumpers to avoid accidental damage. What are the thoughts and/or dangers on this? Wouldn’t the only potential problem be another flashing? My understanding is I need to leave the HeXEn disc in the drive before I begin. Then I would take out the board, solder the points on top and bottom of the board. Then put it back together and boot to HeXEn and flash it. Then when it’s done, I can turn it off, swap the drive, and boot to HeXEn again and do a clean install. Is there anything I missed, or anything else I need to leave on the hard drive? Like I said, I already did the softmod. And is there a way to check that the solder worked, and I have TSOP access, prior to flashing? Any help is appreciated.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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