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I bought a 1.6 xbox with plans to modchip it. The first time I booted it I got a FRAG, then after turning it off and on it was fine. I tried booting a few times and everything worked, so I chalked the first frag up to disuse for years. I opened the xbox to clean it in preperation for the modchip, make sure caps were fine and all. The metal shield was pretty rusty so following some advise from other posts here I sanded it and painted it with Rustoleum. Other than that, I didn't do anything to the rest of the box. Since putting it back together it FRAGs every boot. Did I cover a grounding connection and need to clear that? Unsure of what move to make. Here are some shots of the board. https://imgur.com/a/iuc8fc1

It does for real..... So I put xbox360 slim inside a og xbox. I rewired the front panel work with original buttons and added one extra button for the sync button. Hardest part was to make the dvd drive to fit perfectly. I had to make some crude legs for it. I added larger fan, but then I was like that's not special enough. This sucker will be watercooled. That's more like it. Just need a little bit slimmer fan and install it under the radiator and cut holes to the top cover. It's a perfect fit. On the bottom window you can see the final resting place for the hard drive. Peace XD

Hello everyone. I just finished TSOPing an Xbox model 1.1 and decided I wanted to flash Cerbios 2.01 Retail, and after flashing I have a red/green flashing light with no picture. The system is hooked up via composite (yellow, red and white) video cables and now I have no picture. I cannot access FTP, either. I was also sure to FTP over the Cerbios.ini and boot animations to the root of C ahead of flashing. Can anyone help or point me in the right direction? Thank you.

Hi, I have a 1.6 XBox with the 5 caps near the power supply bulging a bit, now I want to replace them but I don't know which caps to get. I am currently looking at this set: https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/panasonic-electronic-components/EEU-FK0J332L/9921194?s=N4IgjCBcoEwKwyqAxlAZgQwDYGcCmANCAPZQDaIMALDAJwAMVIAukQA4AuUIAyhwE4BLAHYBzEAF8iAdnhIQqSJlyES5SmADMjCKxCdufIWMlEYjWvMXL8RUpAqbt9AAQBWgGIt2XSCACqwoIcAPJoALJ4GDgArvx4ppT00pbQCujYtmoOIABsAHSaLgBq3vq%2BAUGhEVGx8YkAtBBp1pmq9hRg9CwSvUA Are these good quality ones that will work no problem on the XBox? Sorry if this has been asked for 1000 times but I've not been able to find a post that has exact cap specifications because I don't want anything to go wrong. Thanks.

good greetings all i was given a version 1.0 XBox with a Xecuter 2.6 ModChip it has a controller underneath so you can boot either original XBox dash or the EvolutionX (probably like a partition thing) I couldn’t get FTP to work so used a memory card slot to get CHIMP to clone the drive BUT none of the games or applications carry over to the new dive? there is 70 OG XBOX games and like every available skin ever made for EvolutionX but there not on the new 500gig Western Digital? The settings and skin have copied but none of the files. I don’t want to keep writing again/again to the drive as it was not brand new when I got it i am slightly above n00b level but am comfortable in any instructions you give me file system looks normal in explorer C:// D:// Empty E:// F:// G:// S:// Q://

I am looking for a blue xbox configured with the front faceplate like the above. Thank you.

chimp clones to new HDD with out problems but i get error 16 when i put in the new drive after cloning. i tried the 'fix error 16' button in chimp, it said it was good but when i put back in the new HDD i still get Error 16. The stock 10GB HDD i got with the xbox still works if i connect it. i then tired booting the xbox with the 10GB HDD then turning off the xbox and putting in the new HDD but then i got error 13. plz help i already spent like 70$$ on this shit. my xbox is soft modded i removed the clock capacitor i have a compatible HDD, 40-pin/80-wire IDE cables, a working SATA to IDE converter Thank you

Greetings to all, I have an xbox classic 1.0 that they gave me. As soon as I tried to turn it on the initial boot appeared, but then I heard a noise like something sizzling coming from the power supply. I open the xbox and I noticed some screws springs on the power supply which probably caused a short circuit. Now the console does not turn on anymore. If I try to turn it on, the fan turns half a turn and turns off. In stand by I have 3.25 volts on the purple cable while the transformer on the secondary between the red and black cable gives me 0 volts. What could I check. Thank you

So I was looking back into Xbox emulation to see how it has progressed, and Xemu claims it can play 62% of the games library now. I was reading up on how it works and you can command line load an iso, but it doesn't support compressed isos so I'm not interested in that method. It does also support Xbox hard drive images however, and custom dashes. I'm curious if anyone has used xboxhdm to create a hard drive image with one of the hard drive ready rom sets out there and a custom dash to play them in Xemu? Xemu doesn't specifically piece this all together for you on the website, but it seems that should work. Either way I'm going to try it, but just didn't know if anyone knows.

I made some homemade og xbox component cables using og xbox av cables and xbox 360 component cables. At first the homemade cables didn't work as I had read the diagram backward. Eventually it worked with what I assumed was fine colors until I took some comparison photos. Once going into xbmc, I noticed that colors were missing, specifically green and red. I've checked all the connections with a multimeter to make sure they go to the correct output. I also checked with a multimeter to make sure nothing was bridged. Everything appears "fine". https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1p4oX9jJtl0ok6f0cWt4hHe7HL04pc1k8?usp=sharing That's some photos showing a comparison photo of my pound hdmi vs my homemade component cables and the connector itself for the component cables. Any advice on what could be happening would be appreciated. edit: Everything is ntsc, incase that's relevant information

Hey everyone. So, I find myself in a unique situation. I will try to break down my problem as simply as possible: ::I have an S-Type (small) Original Xbox controller with a bad cable. I only have this one controller. ::I do not have a breakaway cable to connect the controller to the Xbox, BUT I have an Xbox controller port to female USB port cable. (pictured here: https://ibb.co/wJTTYfL ) My question is this: could I desolder the Xbox controller cable from the controller board and solder on a USB cable with a standard type-A (male) USB connector to connect to the Xbox, through the pictured-above female USB port?

I've been through hell with this Xbox over the past couple of weeks so let me give a bit of a rundown. I've got a 1.6 Xbox that I installed OpenXenium on using an LPC rebuild board, Chimeric's IDE cable, StarTech IDE/SATA adapter, and a WD 2TB drive. For the longest time I had issues with the OpenXenium install where it would FRAG if the chip was installed. I checked continuity and everything was fine with each VIA to its corresponding point, so I redid my soldering twice and it booted into OpenXenium. I then install a dash, setup the new drive, and put the Xbox back together. However it FRAG'ed again whenever I put the top case back with all the bottom screws. Took the case off, still FRAGing. I realized it was FRAGing with just Chimeric's IDE cable after a couple hours so I got a replacement cable, and everything worked fine with the top case back on. Until it didn't. After turning the Xbox off for a few hours it wouldn't turn back on, period. I took the top case off, and it powered on fine, but after a couple seconds I heard a loud whine/squealing noise from the right side of the Xbox (which I assume was the PSU) > turned the Xbox off > and then it never turned back on again, even with just the bare board. So I replaced the PSU. Issue fixed, it powered back on fine. But when I put the top case back on, it wouldn't power back on, and now I'm at the same spot I was before. The Xbox is not powering on no matter what I do. So here's what I've done so far since then to try and narrow this down: I do not know for 100% certain that the motherboard has been case swapped, but I have no reason to believe it was. The bottom stickers were all intact and the screws were not exposed, and there are no missing/extra screw posts on the bottom of the case compared to the board. I've also tested power with the board and PSU isolated from the case and I'm still not getting power, so the case is not the issue I've checked continuity with all VIAs to their corresponding points with a multimeter and they all have continuity. LFRAME is also not grounded I've checked the PSU using this chart here . I'm getting 5.3v on every orange, 0v on white, 0v on red, 0v on yellow, and 0.3v on blue I'm getting 3.25v-3.26v on the collector chip Anyone have any ideas on where to go from here?

Hello, I managed to split the XISO of Enter The Matrix, but when I ran it, It goes back to dashboard. Im using latest EvoX m8+ noDVD 480p 256kb BIOS. Also, want to know how to mount an small XISO (I dont have or dont know how to create attach.xbe) It seems faster, safer, and better to have ISOS on the Xbox than millions of small files, specially, when transferring them.

Was cleaning attic and found old xbox from about 10 years ago, It had xecuter 2.6 solderless chip with pogo pins and D0 wire and 250gb drive , turned it on and it went straight to MS dash, opened up xbox cleaned it out took chip of pin headers cleaned it also resoldered the 3 wires from chip to back of motherboard. Booted up and again loaded MS dash so cleaned and resoldered again and tried and once again went to MS dash. Chip must have went faulty so unsoldered wires and took chip out..So now I have a 250gb hard drive that boots to MS dash. I did have a backup of the eeprom on my old pc back then but that has long gone and do not have any backup eeprom now. So i now have a 250gb hard drive with all the stuff on it and can not access it...Have included a picture of chip that was in xbox the three wires red,green and grey were soldered to underside of motherboard...Is there any way to access the drive which is locked ? Any help

Have a tsopped OG Xbox with a barracuda 2Tb hdd, it works fine no problems but I decided that making a clone of the hdd would be a good idea in case the one installed failed. I tried using regular pc hdd cloning software but they don't recognize the drives, I tried using chimp but ran into a couple of problems with my xbox to hdmi adapter but eventually I got it working. Problem now is that it would take chimp to clone my hdd 3 days (doing bit by bit since they are both the same type of hdd) and I'm not sure if its a good idea to keep it on for that long. The hdd is almost full so it will be cloning almost the entire 2Tb, I have it in an enclosure in my entertainment center but its open in front and I've installed a rear fan in the cabinet to help with trapped hot air coming from the xbox. What do you guys think, leave it on for the 3 days or maybe there's a faster way that I don't know about, not a lot of info out there for this other than maybe something to do with fatxplorer but there isn't any cloning options I see in the program, I don't want to stop chimp unless I know there's a better way.

Xbox original controller modded communicator shell with power button and USB port.... This requires modifications to be done to the console for this to function with the power button. USB port works as is. make sure you Google what this is before you ask me any questions. $20 USA Shipped. Cash App or PayPal goods and services only

Xbox original controller to USB cable. $7 USA Shipped. Cash App or PayPal goods and services only.

Xbox original Tony Hawk Pro skater 4. One of the 4 softmodding games. $18 USA Shipped. Cash App or PayPal goods and services only

Xbox original communicator. $20 USA shipped Cashapp or PayPal goods and services

Xbox original softmodding kit. $40 USA shipped Cashapp or PayPal goods and services.

Xbox Original Modded Console. Custom Painted with Case Window and LEDs. Controller Custom Painted. RGB AV Cable. Power Cord. $160 USA Shipped Cashapp or PayPal goods and services.

I purchased a xbox communicator adapter hoping I would be able to use a stereo 2.5 mm plug. I am unable to fit the plug to the adapter b/c of raised edge interference. I rather use what I have if possible. What are my options? Do I disassemble the adapter leaving half intact. Do I file down the raised edges so the jack is flush. Does anyone know where I can get an old mono headset with mic used for cell phones 2.5 mm plug? Does anyone know if there is a 2.5 mm cable extension that would fit or is it all proprietary. I am having difficulty disassembling the communicator adapter, it seems to catch at the top, I don't know why. Has anyone disassembled one before?

A service installed an Aladdin xt modchip into my xbox, works perfectly, the problem I have is that if I press the power button it drops me into the official MS dash, if I hold the power button for 1 sec it takes me to the Slayers custom dash, so I can play anything. I wanted the modchip to be permanently enabled so I dont have to hold every time the power button, so I soldered two joints as shown here: This causes my xbox to turn on as soon as I plug it into the wall, even without pressing the power button, and the xbox can't be turned off. Is it a normal thing? I mean this automatic power on obviously not normal, but that one that I have to hold the power button to enter custom dash, is it normal? Or the service messed up the soldering points with the modchip on the motherboard? I have a 1.6 motherboard I guess.

Just getting back into Xboxes after being out since 03-04. I found 14 cds/DVDs of backups and utilities, emulators and bioses. I built my son one was in clear case remote power on and at the time a huge 160gb hd. With a Xenium Ice chip and programer port.

Hi all, I had originally posted in softmods regarding a softmodded Xbox that would throw an Error 07 whenever booting from a newly cloned drive. Now, I can't even boot properly into the dashboard with the original HDD because it will just reboot constantly so I think this part of my problem might be more at home here. Revision is a 1.1 (Kernel 4817). Softmodded with Rocky5's Softmodding tool (use SC Pal save exploit from a USB stick) - all went flawlessly. Before putting the xbox all together, I thought I'd clean the underside of the motherboard and while I was at it, remove the old thermal paste and repaste. I used a hair dryer on low with a couple of temp spikes to speed up the process on the GPU. After my problems with the new cloned drive, I gave up and thought I'd just use the console as is for now, cause I can still play my physical games. However, I'm confronted with a new problem : It will do the boot animation and then 2 scenarii : 1) If I'm on my new Tv with my component cable (had to resolder everything cause I misinterpreted the schematics as being from the back but it now works properly as I see the boot sequence -s can this badly soldered cable have shorted omething?) : I get a black screen with the occasional flicker. 2) Now, on my LCD PC monitor I'll have either a) it boots and I can go about the menu and all, played a game (too scratched to really start but menu was there, buggy music but working). or b) the picture flickers and I catch a glimpse of the boot menu for a split sec and it disappears. I tried going to applications and enigmah to change it back to pal, but my monitor seems unbothered by that (recognises ntsc fine) and every time I press down, thinking I'll be in applications, next flicker I see of the menu, it's back at the top, meaning it's actually rebooted in the meantime. Here's a video to visualise it : https://imgur.com/a/EmA5mmy I've managed to have a stable boot and changed Enigmah back to Pal to be on the safe side. Now, I checked for continuity on all traces, on MadMartigan's advice, and they beep effortlessly. Here is a pic of both sides. I know top looks pretty gnarly but all was cleaned with 90% alcohol and cotton swabs. I didn't scrub it though. https://imgur.com/a/y72odPm The little transistor O7G1, right from the original clock cap on the second picture, looks a bit weird at the pads. Could this play a part? How would I test it? Thanks in advance for your insights and time! Cheers