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hey, im a bit of a newb when it comes to og xbox, but i just bought one for the first time off of ebay. it works great, but i know its a big deal to remove the clock capacitor. it looks like it may have been opened before but i dont have a torx screwdriver to open it up to check. im going to my uncle's on saturday so he can open it up and see. is it fine if i play it with the possibility the clock cap hasnt been removed? it works great in every other regard.

I apologise for the tech OCD, I’m just so stoked to have this console back in my life and every little noise or sound makes me wonder, “What if”? My Xbox has a Philips DVD drive and when I power the system on with no disc inserted or close the tray with no disc inserted while powered on, I can hear the lens move up and down the track 3 times before settling. Is this normal behaviour for this brand of disc drive? I’ve included a video below, you can clearly hear it after the tray closes. Thanks!

I've got 2 XBOX's and one works perfectly and that's the one with a Xenium Ice chip in it, the other has an Aladdin chip I think, I can't recall as it was done about 15 years ago The chip requires that you hold down the power button for about 2 seconds to turn the mod chip on and boot the Xbox to UnleashX. If you don't hold the power button down the screen just goes to no signal and the Xbox doesn't work, it powers on obviously just no signal. If you do hold it down and enable the mod chip the Xbox boots up fine and works well, the only problem is if you do the two trigger / 2 button reboot trick with the M8 bios it does start the reboot process but just goes to a no signal screen. If I go to the option in UnleashX to boot to MSDash it just goes to this same black no signal screen. I tried reinstalling MSDash in case it was a problem with the dashboard, but that made no difference. Does anyone know a solution to this? it's not a big deal but I'd like to resolve it if possible. Thanks in advance.

Hi, I need some help please. After the death of my beloved xbox v1.0 I decided to get a new one, I get a 2002 with motherboard V1.1 and Aladdin XT installed. The console starts and switches off 2 times and then boots normally. By holding down the power button for a few seconds I was sometimes able to start the change. I thought it was faulty and ordered another brand new Aladdin xt plus 2(fake). i notice my old owner had soldered the pins out the mod directly on aladdin main and wired the wires H0 L1 BT D0. it seemed strange to me that it did not use the socket available on the small aladdin board. I then cleaned everything, removed the welds and tried the main and to my amazement it does not start and always cycles on off and then remains on without an image and the LED flashes red. I mount the chip and send D0 to ground and the console magically starts at the first shot without starting the mod, although I set the BT to ground to always leave the mod ON. why does he behave like this? I checked the pins and everything seems okay, the soldering too. I guess it's a motherboard problem right? can you help me please, I really want to make it work again. grazie mille Pietro

hey , so ive read threw prob a few hours of your posts, you are the closest link ive been able to find for what im looking for , having crazy troubles with xboxhdm 23 b3, i dont want to use usb , i have an adapter for sata to ide for inside the xbox , i need to access the sata hdd with xboxhdm without the adapter IE from the internal sata port ,i have read you and a few others referance these modded bat files , ive tried editing them to my spec which was PHYSDRV0 and it still doesnt se the hdd, i dont even want to copy like this just need it to format to the xbox file system , help plz heres a link to my dc if you have a min to chat https://discord.gg/DDeTT8Uz , if not ill just try to keep an eye on here , thanks in advance

Hello there everyone! I posted a little bit around but then I considered the many peculiarities of my situation and decided that it was better to open a new topic. I am going a little bit out of my mind trying to softmod an Xbox 1.00 fw 4034 NTSC-J. I am aiming to play some titles in english and therefore softmod is a must. I am not totally inept with soldering iron but if I wold like not messing around with the motherboard. I checked my options and it seemed that Hotswap was the best alternative. I found a couple of posts on reddit (here from Rocky5 and here). The second post is interesting because essentially presents my same case and the OP resolved with a previous copy of XboxHDM 2.3 Beta 2 and ndure 3.0 but then in the comments another poster said you can just use the XBHDM utility of Rocky5softmod. This was a long route. I thought to start from the easiest way to edit files in the HDD through hotswap: Xplorer360. I planned to use Xplorer360 with the error 12 unplugging the dvd drive but it gave instead the error 11. The error 11 was just the start, I tried other ways to unlock the drive but it still does not show up in Xplorer360 (despite it showed up in DISKUTIL many times). Used other hotswap strategy. In-game technique seemed the one that produced the best effects since it came up in the DISKUTIL but still never on Xplorer360. I dropped Xplorer360. I upgraded to XboxHDM 2.3 Beta 4 I planned to do with the Rocky5 Build 1.1.8v/Installer Variants/XBHDM. I was able to connect it to the PC via ide-usb cable, check in DISKUTIL and check with XboxHDM 2.3 Beta 4 that the hd is "ATA secutity is: enabled, pw Level Max, not locked, not frozen [sec5]." I would like to make a backup and I want to move the rocky5 files now. I moved the XBHDM build from the "installer variants" folder in Build 1.1.8. load the XBHDM for the drive. When I load the xbrowser in XboxHDM and press f2 for menu it gives me a "Cannot open file /usr/local/share/mc/mc.menu". f4 (edit) blanks the page with "C" [Read only] line 1 of 1 --100%-- which factually makes the XBHDM crash (no way to go back). IN A NUTSHELL: from here I am lost... what should I do? I run everything as administrator but no luck. Should I first unlock the drive and disable ? no Disable? i am really confused... I dont have the eeprom reader so i cannot extract it in that way. I order solder ink pen but it will take time but worst scenario I think I might TSOP, but does that too need a softmod first? Anyway I think that I must be close... any suggestions on how to proceed ? Sorry for the long post and thank you for reading!

I lost my N64 freak 1.4ghz Xbox in a fire last year when our house burned down and am sad to see he no longer makes them. If anyone has one I'm willing to buy. I'm in the USA. Name your price. Thanks, Jake

I think my XBOX overheated last night while playing Max Payne. The xbox crashed and a flashing orange light was visible. The power button did not respond at all. What happened is that I just installed a newly printed case on the startech ide adapter. After putting it together I decided to startup a game. First thing I noticed was how silent it was and I was actually wondering if the fan was even turning. 5 min later it crashed. After letting it cool for some time it doesn’t want to boot anymore. I get red/green light flashing after a few seconds. I connected the SSD to a pc and I can access it without issues wit fatxplorer, was affraid that me pulling the cable out might have damaged the SSD. It doesn’t want to boot to ogxbox installer dvd with SSD connected, but everything works fine with original HDD. The ogxbox installer gets into some bootloop, teal logo is visible and disk makes noise every few seconds. Different HDD gives same problem, it was not formatted to fatx because it contained valuable data. So basically there can be a few things wrong: ide adapter bad, ide cable all of the sudden needs to be a 80 pin or somehow the boot partition got corrupted. I should be able to test startech ide connector by connecting it to my pc via sata with original HDD (ide) right? so basically the reverse from what I do on the xbox. What is the best way to rule out the SSD? I prefer not to format it again, as I spend hours and hours copying/unpacking all the games. The unpacking part I can skip btw now. Is there anything else I need to check?

Hi, i Was lucky enough and get free Xbox Classic. Xbox was manufactured in 2003. During the disassembly i found out that console got modchip, could you help me determine which one modchip is it (see attached)? I did some digging and probably the chip that is installed is Aladdin, and it should start after holding power button for about 1s, but nothing happens after that, just MS Bios starting. I've checked if the wires are still soldered and they hold well. Also found out that there is a leak from capacitor - probably the what that is used to hold the clock. I found information that it can be removed. Please share yours knowledge with me ;)

You've all be great in helping me get my two Xbox's to be awesome, I've got them both to a point I consider them perfect, my last little gripe is the time, they boot up thinking it's 2007. I've noticed the Xbox has a time server function where it can automatically connect to internet time servers and update the time with UnleashX and also XBMC, however every time server address I put in there doesn't work, even though the time servers do work on windows. Is there a time server anyone has found that actually works on the Xbox? I remember years ago I used to use this function and it used to work fine. If I can sort this out it's the last peace of the puzzle to Xbox perfection for me.

Xbox takes about ten minutes to load the dashboard if I do not attach the DVD drive. I have more xboxes than I do working DVD drives so my goal is to build a working xbox that doesn't require the DVD drive. My issue seems to match a previous post. I used TruHexen 2021 to write 256K EvoX NoDVD to TSOP. From the previous thread, I see that KaosEngineer recommended using EvTool to customize the BIOS before flashing. I grabbed EvolutionX M8plus Bios.rar from xbins. I am paranoid about bricking my xbox. Before I flash, I wanted to make sure I am flashing the correct BIOS. Within the archive, I see a M8plus.bin file which I believe is the correct one to use for 1.2. The MD5 is 0xdfc6288f6b67fd021e1970491c64c0a0. This MD5 doesn't match the Evox M8 MD5 listed at https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/wiki/bios/md5 of aa4d0820b932009090f780f0ee1d1b1c. Do I have the correct Evox M8plus BIOS for my 1.2?

Looking to purchase power button for og Xbox. Would like power button with blue LEDs. If anyone has one available please message me. Thanks

Greetings from Japan, wonderful people of this wonderful forum! I have been a long time lurker and and even longer time dreamer (to have a OG Xbox). As you might know here in Japan Original Xboxes are rare and come pretty expensive (50 to 120usd depending on the conditions). Anyway I recently bit the bullet and for 4500jpy(40usd) got my hands on a semitransparent black limited edition with controllers HD converters and original cables, all in very good conditions (externally). DVD is finicky but after few shots works. MB should be a 1.0 according to serial number. The seal is still intact which makes me believe nobody has been in there. I got a copy of splinter cell, ordered usb port and ide-to-sata interface, ide cables. I am studying now right usb stick while I was looking my chances for a softmod and maybe an HDD upgrade (I have many laying around). I read discussions in which members say "chip or death" but I am noob with solder - I fix almost everything all the time so I do not know if it is a bit of a complex, Japanese humility or just I am still a noob for real. Let's just say I am not confident enough to try TSOP or modchips on this beauty while just remove the clock capacitor is something I would feel totally ok doing. Looking around for component I stumbled upon this seller online that offers what stated in the title: a modded xbox 128mb ram, 2tb, fanless heatsink, softmodded for 200usd. I mean just the components are about 150usd. The guy clearly loves xbox. The fan-less heat-sink and the lack of a modchip are the only two things that really make me go like "nani?" especially the heat sink so I decided to ask here... I know that later models did not have one but is it safe? also how it is the price? should I just drop it and buy this one or should I softmod it by myself? In case can I swap the "shell" with the one I have or depends on the MB series? Thank you for reading this huge thing. edit: also can you suggest me a reliable and noob friendly step by step guide to softmod?

Hi, i have xbox 1.0 and i have a problem with it. When I turn on, I do not have a signal video and audio to the green LED, it blinks 3 times, then it lights constantly. When I connect the alladdin, the video is sometimes broken, the green LED lights up in the thread. (how was the work, normal work) However, it was from sound, it does not give a video and so every now and then (picture as it is white) The cable component is working. What is your problem? Any ideas please.

Hello, I know PAL games can display 480p if a PAL Xbox is softmodded NTSC. But do those « forced » 480p PAL games are as good as native 480p NTSC games ? I explain my point : on a region free PAL Gamecube, you can force 480p on PAL games with Swiss. But some games aren’t as good as their NTSC equivalent in 480p, because they are optimized for 480i/576i mode, not for 480i/480p mode, and so they can have some issues with their pictures. So, my question is : do PAL Xbox games have this kind of optimization for PAL region, as Gamecube games, or are they strictly identical to NTSC ones ? Thanks for your answers.

Here is just a full set of original xbox trainers so enjoy. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1uDFvudNygx4gigztawEsbteyiyDQk2n5

I've got a 1.1 XBOX, made October 2002. I soft modded it using Rocky5 files and then did a TSOP flash with EVO X with F & G. All went well and I next tried to upgrade the HDD from the stock one to a Segate 2TB after upgrading the IDE cable to 80 wire one. I tried the first adapter from the top of the picture you see below but the XBOX didn't see the HDD, so then I tried the second adapter (middle one). The XBOX saw the HDD and HeXen 2018 loaded up from disc, it installed all the dash/app files, then usex XB Partioner to split F & G into equal sizes 926GB (approx if I recall from memory). At this point everything was going well and the XBOX would boot fine into dash, I even managed to transfer some games and then started installing XBMC and some emulators, during this the XBOX seemed to freeze and not respond. I rebooted the XBOX but it kept giving me error 7 and sometimes error 9. I tried everything possible including formatting the hard drive on the PC and reconnecting, tried other hard drives but all gave the same result. I then tried the first adapter from the top and the XBOX would boot but won't run anything from the DVD drive. Finally I bought the third IDE to SATA adapter, third one at the bottom of the picture and this arrived today This sadly has not changed the outcome and I continued now to get error 7 with all 3 different adapters With all this mentioned, the XBOX boots fine into dashboard with the original hard drive and current EVO X BIOS flash. I've also tried all jumper settings on both second and third adapter that has jumper pins. At this point I'm lost to what is the problem, could I just possibily ended up with 3 bad Chinese IDE to SATA adapters? I've ordered StarTech.com 40-Pin IDE PATA to SATA Adapter Converter and this will land in the next day or two for me to test. Any input on this would be appreciated.

hello guys i have an xbox with 80gb hard drive i have another 120gb hard drive my question is how i can replace it with the 80gb my xbox has Aladdin modchip

I recently bought an original Xbox It worked fine (would go to date and time page on every start up) up until last week now on start up it does the date and time screen, I try to get past that page by to play the game but there is no response from the console I have tried 2 different controllers and a dvd remote and still no luck. Any input on what the problem could be and a resolution is much appreciated

Hi all! I'm having some trouble with installing an OpenXenium purchased from MakeMHZ into an Xbox 1.0. I'm relatively new to this, and have surely made some mistakes. When I start it up, it does this: https://imgur.com/a/HTHYrU2 Here's what I know: Stupidly, I soldered the D0 pad on the modchip to the 1.6 pad - that has been fixed. I don't think this is the issue, because I have a second chip that I did not make this mistake with, and it still does not work. I didn't scrape the solder mask off LPC ports, and really had trouble flowing the joints. The one I'm most concerned with is the bottom right joint of the first photo. Can I run a jump wire from that to one of the nearby test pads? I'm fairly confident the D0 pad on the modchip is correctly connected to D0 on the board - I tested the continuity from the chip to the both points on the board, and was good. I have photos available here: https://imgur.com/a/FX7R43B Thanks for any info in advance!!

Im looking for some ideas to try before I look for a replacement xbox. Im not sure if i can do anything else at this point. My xbox was soft modded for some time, but I wanted to do a tsop to unlock the drive and then put in a 2.5 inch 500 gb sata drive. I did the tsop (i have a v1.5) soldered the 2 point and flashed the tsop with hexen 2021 disc. Put in my sata driver with adpater and 80 pin cable and everything was great. I started uploaded the library that i have. I also removed the supercap. I was down to my really scrached discs and was trying to see i could get good copies from them, but gave up. I picked up some new titles and went to install them and the xbox wouldnt boot. I get the evo/xbox splash screen to a blank screen with the orange led. Tried booting hexen or soft mod or game disc and nothing. I tried cleaning out the dvd drive, that didnt help. The last thing i did with the drive was watch it with the cover off. It doesnt appear to be trying to focus nor does it appear to be emitting a laser. It does move the laser head unit on the rails. But i dont think this should stop a boot to harddrive? I went back to the ide drive and the 40 pin cable and no change. I tried combinations of hooking up pc cdrom to the ide and dvd on the power. Thought maybe the dvd drive was corrupting the ide bus. Ive checked my caps and board multiple times. The only thing i was suspicious of was a pin point spot on the nvidia chip, i hope it didnt melt itself inside. So thats where im at, i think my dvd is toast and maybe the ide on the motherboard is broken.

Hello guys, This post will be somewhat long because I want to include as much relevant information as possible. I have a v1.1 NTSC-U Xbox console, which I purchased brand new back in 2003. I modded it with a Xecuter 2.0 Pro mod chip sometime around 2004. It worked great for 2-3 years with no issues whatsoever. Then, out of nowhere, it started to intermittently FRAG. Sometimes it would boot just fine, but other times the Xbox would flash red and green and require me to reboot it 10 times in a row before it would boot to dashboard. Also, sometimes the Xbox would boot just fine and work for 2-3 hours straight and then, for no apparent reason, lose the video output. Interestingly enough, it would lose the video output only, but not audio. I tried different BIOS versions as well as different banks on the Xecuter 2.0 mod chip, but to no avail. After all that, I decided that it was too much trouble and just stopped using this FRAGging Xbox. Fast forward to 2020, and I decided to connect this old v1.1 Xbox to my TV and test it out. It worked great for the first two weeks, but then started FRAGging just like 14 years ago. It behaves exactly the same way as it used to – it might boot just fine 10 times in a row, or it might FRAG 20 times in a row. I reflashed the BIOS again, but to no avail. I also noticed a few more things. First, the removal of the DVD drive and/or hard drive does not seem to affect the FRAGging at all. The console can still FRAG with both drives completely disconnected. Also, if the Xbox boots to dashboard with no issues, I can easily make it lose the video output by knocking on the table on which the Xbox is sitting or by touching the AV cable. If I reboot the console immediately after that, the Xbox would usually FRAG. Bad AV cable, right? Nope. I tried four different AV cables/adapters and this is happening with all of them. All said cables work perfectly with my v1.0 Xbox and no amount of knocking on the table or touching the cables can make this second Xbox lose the video output. Here is the list of AV cables that I tried with the same result (i.e. intermittent FRAGging on my v1.1 Xbox and no issues on my v1.0 Xbox): 1. OEM Microsoft Composite cable 2. OEM Microsoft AV pack 3. OEM Microsoft HD AV pack 4. Third party HD AV pack Here are a few more things that I did: * Sprayed the AV connector in the Xbox with DeoxIT D5 and inspected it for damage * Reflowed all solder joints on the AV connector, twice * Inspected the traces on the motherboard near the AV connector Here is a list of things that I could still do (but would rather not): * Stop relying on the AV connector. Instead, solder the wires to it and add component video and coaxial audio jacks to the back of the Xbox console. Unfortunately, there is no guarantee that this will solve the FRAG issue. This Xbox was used by an adult and was never dropped or abused. At this point, I am not sure what else I can do besides soldering wires to the AV port and adding audio and video output jacks to the back of the Xbox. Does anyone have any idea of what might be happening? P.S. The pictures of the motherboard are attached to this post.

I have Xbox moded with Aladdin XT Plus2 (I bought it moded few years ago). ODD started failing a while back (had much trouble to recognize disc and even if it did, it had trouble reading it to rip it to HDD). I eventually ignored it and started to upload games through FTP. But recently HDD started failing, it does clicking noise at startup, sometimes it doesn't start and displays error page "service required...", if it eventually starts then sometimes it works ok and sometimes it crashes during operation with HDD making those clicking noise. So, i opened my Xbox, connected HDD to one of my PC I use for older games (Core 2 Duo, WinXP, ATA connector on motherboard) and it started ok, it was seen in device manager, but disk management didn't see it. I googled around and it seems drives are ATA locked on Xbox and that is why I didn't see any partitions. So I run SMART Extended test using smartmontools and it didn't detect any errors, also SMART attributes didn't show anything unusual (I'm familiar with this since I do computer repairs). So I googled some more and it seems I could just insert another ATA HDD to Xbox and use recovery disc to prepare HDD. I had some spare Samsung 40GB so I inserted it in Xbox and I have disc labeled as "XBOX Master Installer v2 (recovery)" but I couldn't get it to work because ODD have trouble reading it. So I'm really in a pickle. Is there some alternative way to do this without replacing ODD?

Hello Friends. I need some help: my Original Xbox 1.6 (has an aladdin modchip and 500GB SATA HD) used to work very well. Suddenly one day it started to show error 13. Now I realized that it only works when I connect the HD on the middle connector of the IDE cable and the DVD drive on the end connector (this way it works correctly). If I connect the normal way (DVD in the middle connector and HD in the end connector) it shows error 13. I am using the stock IDE cable and I tested other 40 wire IDE cable and the result is the same. Does anybody know why this is happening? Is this happening because I am not using a 80 wire IDE cable? But it used to work with this stock cable. Can somebody help me to understand this problem?