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Hi there, Noob that just join this community for some solid advice/direction for my upgrade, I have a working 1.6A xbox with a Super Aladdin Live modchip running XBMC on a 80 Gb IDE HDD My aim is to upgrade the HDD to a 500 Gb Sata HDD (I know I could go bigger) and also upgrade to Rocky 5 instead.... I currently have: - The 80 wire/40 pin IDE cable (ATA 100/133) - IDE to Sata converter - 500Gb Sata HDD What are my options? Do I have to hot swap the HDD with the disk drive with a program running on the xbox ? Thanks in advance for any help or links for guides/programs to help me !!

Some time back I bought a board with the 1.4 interposer mod already installed but unfortunately didn’t have time to mess with it until now. Checked his GitHub and saw references that say XBMC will always report 1.4 regardless of the switch setting. Is there a way I can confirm if the switch is actually switching between 733 and 1.4? I tried several retail games from disc without patching which I understand should have issues but both worked with the switch on or off. I also verified the blue led on the interposer stays on regardless of switch setting. thanks in advance

Hi, i've read over at reddit that there is some new Beta of UIX Lite which has an integrated FTP Server. Anyone know where to get this version? Eventually someone can enlighten me what those "usual places" are Thanks, Egon

Hi Everyone! I'm in the market for a 1.0 motherboard that has had the extra ram up to 128mb chips added, has had all the caps replaced, the clock cap removed, the TSOP write points restored, and CPU thermal paste replaced. Essentially a nicely restored 128mb 1.0 motherboard that won't give me any trouble for! Optionally it would be nice to have the LPC pin headers installed in the case recovery is needed. I know there is a lot of time in that request between the caps and the ram, so please name your price. I'm in the US.

Hello guys, I just updated the fan of my Xbox and want to set now the default value of the fan to 100%. Unfortunately I don't have a Windows machine to edit the evox.m8plus.v16.fc.137.bin. If someone can tell me how to edit it on a Mac I'm also can also change it myself. Thanks for your help. Regards Nikolaj

I fixed my water damaged xbox today with a lot of help and pointers from some of the guys here. Basically my xbox was water damaged a few years ago, after a long time drying out I turned it on and it would only stay on for about 20 minutes before shutting itself off. I never really planned on fixing it as I have many replacements but today I noticed that the fan was dead and I replaced it, now it seems to be working fine. What led me to do this was another issue, I had forgotten about the damage earlier this week and booted the console up to grab some files, anyway the console shut itself down a few times while I was going about some other things around the house. I don't know much about electricity, basically just hot, neutral and ground, that's about it. So I was thinking about how I had this damaged xbox plugged into a power strip with several other consoles and whether this damaged xbox could damage other consoles sharing its powerstrip if used. Now I have been told by the higher ups here that it is not a problem, but I would like to know why. Basically how does a (specifically 1.6) xbox deal with electrical problems, whether it is a short, water damage, any electrical issues. What prevents it from damaging other consoles that share a power strip or power plug? I know the xbox does not have a grounding prong so what prevents any excess charge traveling to other systems? My xbox had a dead fan which I would assume shorted out from water damage, how does that factor? (specifically a 1.6 xbox) Many thanks guys for all your help and I hope I am not being a pain.

I have several boards (1.0, 1.1 & 1.4) that will not power up with a known good power supply. Capacitors all look good and there are no visible signs of damage or component failure anywhere. Are there typical failure points that I should check? Would it be worth it to replace the power caps anyway? Thanks for any help. I hate to ditch these boards or just use them for parts.

My setup: -Xbox 1.6 -Aladin modchip -500gb sata hdd -adapter sata ide pretty new and funcitonal -truHexen2021 boot disc, booting just fine After i've managed to install everything with the boot disc, the console hangs in evox logo. If boot with the disc, it loads ok. Steps: -Boot disc, prompt "new hdd", formated -Hdd tools, formated again with xbpartitioner 1.3, leaving only f partition 430gb~ -Created only F partition, not g. -Install dashboard: xbmc4gamers: prompt: use as main one? Answer: Yes (on f partition) -Clear cache, check if f is created on file manager, apps folder ok, xbmc4gamers ok. -Took off the disc -Boot xbox -Evox logo hang screen. microsoft text below the screen Did I miss something? Thank you if you read till here.

Hello ! I have a bought a xbox with Xbmc4gamers installed, and i have a problem with fanarts and posters. When I press Up on the Xbox games carousel to access the dash customisation menu popup. I have only 2 choices about the views ...like something is locked. Impossible to access to the options of the view options. when i clic on the eye, nothing happen. Like something is locked. Also when i go to the settings page, i have the impression that something is missing What do you think ?

Hello guys, This is my first post on this great forum, lots of info and input is amazing! The reason of this probably repeated post is that I want to upgrade my HDD to a 1TB or 2TB HDD (what's the max capacity I can go with my motherboard?), I watched lots of tutorials and seems the way to go is using OGXBox (downloaded and burned version 1.5.3 to a DVD, also have TruHeXEn 2021 on another DVD disc if needed) my questions are mostly regarding how to proceed now, I got this console from a very good friend some 15 years ago, and it was modded as it alwas played back up DVD's, I opened the console to look if there was any physical chip or mod to the board but couldn't find any or I'm too dumb to detect it, seems like it is only soft modded? Current BIOS and Dash versions are attached in pics along with more pics of the motherboard so I don't know if you guys can see any mods performed to it. I already purchased the SATA to IDE adapter and performed the 80 way/40 pin IDE cable conversion and everything seems to be working after that I was able to play my backup DVDs and play from the original HDD as well, so basically which route do I follow now? because I don't want to perform something that might brick the console by interfering with the already installed mod, also is there any specific model of 3.5" SATA HDD I need to choose?, I know there's like a list of working/locked HDD so do I need to consider that when purchasing my new HDD? I was plannig to get a WD blue or Seagate Barracuda. Thank you very much for all your help guys!

Hi This forum is great but i've exhuasted searching for a solution to my problem. What I would like to do is be able to boot two bios. One with the power button to launch XBMC4Gamers and one with the eject button to launch XBMC-Emustation. I've been away from the xbox mod scene for about a decade until recently but from what I understand I should be able to do this with my new aladdin mod chip. My xbox is a 1.6 so i've had to rebuild the LPC. I have modified two M8 16 bios .bin files - One 512k bios to boot to XBMC4Gamers and one 256k bios to boot to XBMC-Emustation (both 480p bios, I have Wii2HDMI internal mod) Flashed the bios files to their appropriate banks on my Aladdin XT Changed the settings from within XblastOS to allow quickboot - power button 512k bios, eject button 256k bios Regardless of what settings I change my xbox will only ever boot the 256k bios and launch XBMC4Gamers. However if i flash bank1 (256k) with the XblastOS bios the settings then it will work and I can choose which bios to boot (either XblastOS or whichever bios i have flashed to the 512k bank). I have tried to flash bank2 (OS) on the modchip with the XblastOS bios but it made no difference. Im thinking perhaps it is a problem with my soldering but i've checked my connections for continuity and they all seem fine. I have also earthed the d0 to the ground screw but the picture below was taken before I made that connection. Hopefully ive explained that okay. Its not a major issue because I can use the xbox as it is but I would like the option to boot into two dashboards, with the touch of a button, if possible. tia

Hello everyone, I want to store my game collection in the most authentic way possible (matching Redump) but that takes a lot of storage. So, I did a little bit of research and now I have few questions (and few requests) that I hope someone could help me with. It seems to me that there are three main formats for storing a retail OG Xbox disc: (1) Redump ISO (2) XISO (3) Extracted files/Game Folder I did some testing with: Halo - Combat Evolved (USA) (Rev 2) {crc="013986d0"} JSRF - Jet Set Radio Future (USA) {crc="b2a882df"} Mortal Kombat - Deception (USA) {crc="007bcbcc"} A ----------------- In the Xemu documentation it is mentioned that you can create an emulator-compatible .iso file by using either of the commands: -with dd: dd.exe if={redump_game_name}.iso of={output_game_name}.iso skip=387 bs=1M -with extract-xiso: extract-xiso.exe -r {redump_game_name}.iso But these two methods produce different .iso files. The one created with dd.exe is much bigger. A1- Are these two different forms of XISO or is the .iso file created with dd.exe just a trimming hack and not a proper XISO? A2- Is what is trimmed with dd.exe the same for every retail disc (meaning we can just keep one copy to rebuild every disc with it)? A3- What is the effect of using the two commands together? A4- In this post JayFoxRox says that we can separate the video and game partitions and recombine them later. Also he says that the video partition is the same for most retail games. Is that true? What games have special video partition? How to separate the two partitions and recombine them to give the original Redump CRC? If the video partition is the same for all/most games, that would mean that we can keep one copy of that partition to recreate the Redump ISO from any XISO file (saving a lot of space). The exception being the random padding that we need to find a way to recreate. B ----------------- Extracting the files from a Redump ISO with with extract-xiso extract-xiso.exe -x {redump_game_name}.iso then generating a .iso with them extract-xiso.exe -c {Folder_with_all_the_files} gives a .iso file with a different CRC32 to the .iso file that is created from extract-xiso.exe -r {redump_game_name}.iso I tried to use IsoBuster 4.8 (free) on a Redump ISO. It worked for listing the LBA for the files and for extracting the game files. IsoBuster always showed 4 partitions for the Redump ISOs: SEP13011042 SEP13011042072 VIDEO XBOX and two partitions for the XISO created with extract-xiso: - {it's just a dash} XBOX The files didn't change (I extracted again and compared) but I noticed that the some LBA for the files is different. Maybe there is something else that is different as well? B1- Is there a program that can create/edit ISO files based on LBA information (maybe like PS3 ISO Rebuilder with IRD files)? B2- Does this mean that we need to create files like IRD files for the PS3 (Layout files?) to be able to recreate an XISO file from extracted files? B3- Anyone knows a program that can do that for XISO files? For Redump ISO files? (similar to Redump2IRD) Note: I tried IsoBuster 4.7 and didn't work for me. In their release notes for 4.8 they mention {better XISO support}. General Questions: 1- Do you think we should start a database for the random blocks seeds using the tools in HERE? (even though we can't do it for all discs right now) 2- Can anyone provide the attachments from this thread? 3- Can anyone provide a compiled version of this program?

Hello Everyone. I am kind of new/kind of old to the scene, as I have an rev 1.6 Xbox that I bought brand new in 2006, softmodded and installed a 160gb harddrive, which is(was?) limited to 137Gb useable space, copied all my bought games to it, threw in a couple emulators, and then just used it on and off and basically forgot anything involved in the process to the mists of time. Recently it wouldn't power on, so I replaced the common 5 3300uF caps that were leaking, and it was good to go. My brain noted that the 16 year old IDE hard drive will not run forever, and I should look at upgrading to a SATA configuration. Due to the time gap, very old versions of software, I have now read so much conflicting information at this point am not sure what to do in 2021. I no longer have the original drive. I don't appear to have an image of either drive (8gb or 160gb) in any of my backups either. My fuzzy memory says this is bad because of linked keys. I do not have a PATA usb adaptor, or computer with PATA. I have an Xbox to USB adaptor, but I don't think I have a compatible thumb drive. Based on my research I've ordered the "correct" Startech SATA/PATA adaptor. The existing drive already has an 80 pin cable. I do have ftp access without issue. I'm attaching a 2 screenshots of my drive/system info, my questions are: Is that key in the screenshot all I need? If not what is the best way to go about backing up the drive/board key "Just in case" things go bad. And is Chimp (https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/wiki/chimp/) still the best way to clone it to a new drive in 2021? I undoubtedly will have more questions, but backing up is my first priority, and once I have a confirmed backup I will be much more comfortable playing with it, and hopefully updating the various software I have loaded. Any "critical hints" or gotchas would be appreciated as well. v

I have an old Xbox that has an Xecuter 2 chip installed, it still has the stock HDD so i'd like to upgrade it to a 500GB SATA. Weirdly I cannot physically see any chip soldered to the board, I can see some yellow wires going out the front of the console so i'm not sure if this is where the chip is located? (see pic). In any case I have downloaded the HeXen 2018 installation disc, and I have the necessary parts required to convert from IDE to SATA. Is this disc capable of setting up a HDD with this chip? I took a couple of pics showing my kernel and the fact my current HDD is locked:

I chip modded my Xbox 20 years ago when I was in college. Not sure the type of chip but I can find out if need be. Evolution X executor rox my box load screen. Fast forward and now I have 4 kids who have resurrected the Xbox, ages 4-11. I suspect one of the kids messed up the bios but I really don't know. One day, the kids can't get into system utilities anymore and load games. Here is the screen it boots to. Not sure where to go from here to get the machine working but I can follow directions and my 11YO is as nerdy as I used to be, so I'm hoping all is not lost. Any guidance appreciated.

I lost my N64 freak 1.4ghz Xbox in a fire last year when our house burned down and am sad to see he no longer makes them. If anyone has one I'm willing to buy. I'm in the USA. Name your price. Thanks, Jake

Hi all im still very new to the og xbox. i bought my xbox from a modder that had everything setup for me yes i should have done it myself so i could learn lol on my main menu i have all my emulators listed but i have lost my shortcut to xbmc4gamers i can still load it by going to programs and selecting it but it was nice to have a shortcut for some reason today my whole dash reset to default i have no idea why and this is why i have lost my shortcuts and as i did not set this xbox up i have no clue how to get the xbmc4gamers shortcut back. thanks

Xbox takes about ten minutes to load the dashboard if I do not attach the DVD drive. I have more xboxes than I do working DVD drives so my goal is to build a working xbox that doesn't require the DVD drive. My issue seems to match a previous post. I used TruHexen 2021 to write 256K EvoX NoDVD to TSOP. From the previous thread, I see that KaosEngineer recommended using EvTool to customize the BIOS before flashing. I grabbed EvolutionX M8plus Bios.rar from xbins. I am paranoid about bricking my xbox. Before I flash, I wanted to make sure I am flashing the correct BIOS. Within the archive, I see a M8plus.bin file which I believe is the correct one to use for 1.2. The MD5 is 0xdfc6288f6b67fd021e1970491c64c0a0. This MD5 doesn't match the Evox M8 MD5 listed at https://www.reddit.com/r/originalxbox/wiki/bios/md5 of aa4d0820b932009090f780f0ee1d1b1c. Do I have the correct Evox M8plus BIOS for my 1.2?

Hi folks, A friend pointed me in your direction, and I hope you can shed some light of this issue. I picked up an immaculate Xbox today, boxed, sealed manual, still had the plastic over the eject and power buttons, not a mark on the case I played some OutRun2 and Dead or Alive 3, no issues. I then decided to “stress test” and run a game for half an hour, and chose Halo 2, letting it sit in its promo/demo loop. After around 35 mins, the game froze. I ejected the disc, returned to the dash, and reloaded the disc … nothing. The green light around eject just flashes, but there’s no action from the drive other than 3 whirs then nothing. Tonight I took the console apart, and it’s immaculate inside. No leaks, no dust, no bulging caps, not even a spec of dust on the fan … I doubt this console has seen much use, which is what makes this issue even harder to understand. When I had the lid off the drive, I tried to load a game, OutRun2 … but the behaviour is the same for any disc. The lens moves to the top of the track and back 3 times, and each time it returns to its “home” position next to the disc spindle, the spindle tries to turn and moves, if it’s lucky, a centimetre or two. It does this 3 times, then nothing. I don’t get any disc read errors, because the disc doesn’t seem to spin up. The drive, like the rest of the system, is very clean but it just stopped working so suddenly. Any and all advice will be greatly appreciated. I don’t want to return this to CEX for them to scrap it, especially given it’s condition, so I want to try and save it. If the drive is toast, as I suspect it may well be, what are my options in terms of modding without a working disc drive? Thanks all. Edit: I have uploaded a video of the drive in action, here:

So I got a soft modded console with Maxtor 40GB IDE drive, listed as working. Got it, plugged it in, browsed around for maybe 5 mins and then it just crashed. The board is now dead and the HDD is locked. Being locked I know my options are already limited. I basically just want to format it completely and rebuild it for use on another machine. Here’s where I run into the major issue. I first tried my OpenXenium Xbox to try and unlock the drive. No luck it won’t let format or any of the options available. I just get an error saying it couldn’t complete it yada yada yada. I was however able to sign into the drive with FTP and it’s completely empty. Hexen won’t boot since I can only get as far an error 9 with a locked drive. PC does not recognize the drive at all when plugged in via IDE to USB adapter. FYI, It does have a power source running. Where can I go from here? I hate to throw away a 40GB drive if it’s salvageable. If it’s dead, then so be it.

I've got a 1.1 XBOX, made October 2002. I soft modded it using Rocky5 files and then did a TSOP flash with EVO X with F & G. All went well and I next tried to upgrade the HDD from the stock one to a Segate 2TB after upgrading the IDE cable to 80 wire one. I tried the first adapter from the top of the picture you see below but the XBOX didn't see the HDD, so then I tried the second adapter (middle one). The XBOX saw the HDD and HeXen 2018 loaded up from disc, it installed all the dash/app files, then usex XB Partioner to split F & G into equal sizes 926GB (approx if I recall from memory). At this point everything was going well and the XBOX would boot fine into dash, I even managed to transfer some games and then started installing XBMC and some emulators, during this the XBOX seemed to freeze and not respond. I rebooted the XBOX but it kept giving me error 7 and sometimes error 9. I tried everything possible including formatting the hard drive on the PC and reconnecting, tried other hard drives but all gave the same result. I then tried the first adapter from the top and the XBOX would boot but won't run anything from the DVD drive. Finally I bought the third IDE to SATA adapter, third one at the bottom of the picture and this arrived today This sadly has not changed the outcome and I continued now to get error 7 with all 3 different adapters With all this mentioned, the XBOX boots fine into dashboard with the original hard drive and current EVO X BIOS flash. I've also tried all jumper settings on both second and third adapter that has jumper pins. At this point I'm lost to what is the problem, could I just possibily ended up with 3 bad Chinese IDE to SATA adapters? I've ordered StarTech.com 40-Pin IDE PATA to SATA Adapter Converter and this will land in the next day or two for me to test. Any input on this would be appreciated.

Hello everyone, Thank you for all the great resources on this site, was able to figure out issues with games like JSRF, Panzer Dragoon, Voodoo Vince and more. I'm still having issues with 2 games on my list that I was dying to play - Fatal Frame 2 & Call of Cthulhu. I've tried different Bios' different launchers, launching the game in different resolutions, multiple downloads and more. Next thing I'd like to try is applying an ACL patch using DVD2xbox, but I can't locate the ACL file needed to do this without burning. Eventually I'll try that if nothing else works... Running an X3 chip on the latest bios on XBMC from a 1.6 Xbox for context. Does anyone have any advice or the ACL files I need to run these games? I think they're trying to access specific assets from the DVD drive, they keep freezing at the exact same point Everytime I load it up.

So I've just completed my openxenium install along with spi2par2019 / LCD display and Segate 2TB HDD. There are 4 bio on the openxenium which are x2.5035.137 bin, IND-BIOS.5004.67.bin, evox.m8plus.v16.fc.137.bin and Retail Kernel. If I boot with the evox.m8plus.v16.fc.137.bin bios, the console hangs up on the xbox logo and the word microsoft when its trying to load the dash. If I reset the console by ejecting the disc and closing it, it reboots fine striaght into the dash. If I use either x2.5035.137.bin or IND-BIOS.5004.67.bin then console boots straight into the dash from the first time. I tried different HDD, different IDE2SATA adapter both chinese and StarTech ones with all giving the same problem. This leads to believe that the issue is with the evox bios. Any suggestions or idea, should I be using a different evox bios? HDD is formatted with extra G & F partitions, I resized the partions to a smaller size, restarted and then re-partitioned again to the correct size as suggested in a previous post.

Hi all! I'm having some trouble with installing an OpenXenium purchased from MakeMHZ into an Xbox 1.0. I'm relatively new to this, and have surely made some mistakes. When I start it up, it does this: https://imgur.com/a/HTHYrU2 Here's what I know: Stupidly, I soldered the D0 pad on the modchip to the 1.6 pad - that has been fixed. I don't think this is the issue, because I have a second chip that I did not make this mistake with, and it still does not work. I didn't scrape the solder mask off LPC ports, and really had trouble flowing the joints. The one I'm most concerned with is the bottom right joint of the first photo. Can I run a jump wire from that to one of the nearby test pads? I'm fairly confident the D0 pad on the modchip is correctly connected to D0 on the board - I tested the continuity from the chip to the both points on the board, and was good. I have photos available here: https://imgur.com/a/FX7R43B Thanks for any info in advance!!

I recently bought a few faulty Xboxes yesterday and I want to try sort out this 1.1 which FRAGs. When I press eject it will often not open the disc tray, sometimes it will open quarter or half way or not close when it does open. I've tried 3 disc drives and they all have the same issue indicating a motherboard or possibly daughterboard problem. I have removed the clock capacitor which was only starting to leak. I've cleaned up what little leakage there was. Any ideas?