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Hey all, first post as I stumbled across this page while trying to research my halo edition xbox. I pulled it out of storage and wanted to sell it as I havent used it in forever and am fairly out of the video game collecting these days. Memory is pretty fuzzy on this as it's been awhile, but I bought this new when it came out, used it a good amount and then ended up putting the Xenium Ice modchip in with the solderless adapter. It's been in a closet for at least the past 10 years. I believe the hard drive and disc drive are original, almost positive I never replaced those. I hooked it all up and tested it, works great, the only game I had laying in the closet with it was Sneak King, so I tossed that in to confirm the drive still worked, no issues. The case looks great, no cracks. It is missing one of the rubber feet. Controller, power and video cables are the original ones that came with it. I'd like to get $300 + shipping for it, but am open to offers. Pics attached and happy to take others if anyone needs.

Please see link to 10 images of board here https://imgur.com/a/nJotOX1 The machine in question is a v1.0 with fresh electrolytic capacitors installed everywhere a few weeks ago aside from the power supply (Foxlink, with resoldered power leads). It also has an Aladdin mod chip which I was running Cerbios 2.2.0 beta on previously. After successfully upgrading the RAM on a v1.4 machine yesterday I decided to do my primary xbox today. RAM in question is the leaded F-QC50 variant. They appear entirely to be authentic Samsung chips. With XBlast OS flashed to the mod chip, I began with the RAM install. First chip, test, success. Second chip, test, fail. Quick rework and second passes. Then I decide to do the last two together and test afterwards. Test shows 1-3 pass, number 4 fails. This is the one below the CPU and next to the connector from the power supply. Rework number 4 with an iron, not hot air, still fails, rework it again, still fails. Go for a third try and now the Xbox will momentarily boot with solid green LEDs (hard disk spins up, fans spin normal speed, LED on mod chip illuminates) then quickly cuts power. Then will turn itself on again about a second later, usually with no LEDs on the eject button, fans spin normally, LED on mod chip lights, then power cuts out. There is no display. I also swapped in a known good power supply from a different v1.0 and no difference was made. This cycle appears to repeat indefinitely. Sometimes the LEDs on the eject button light up green, sometimes they flash green, other times there is no light at all. I have tried with no disc drive and no hard disk, with just one of those, and with both of them. I removed the fourth RAM chip in an attempt to rule out the chip itself, however the same result ensues. I then removed a factory RAM chip (M-QC50) from a known good console and installed that in the fourth slot, no change. I ended up removing that chip so only ones that passed the test in XBlast are installed. I know it is possible for the chip to be bad, yet still pass. I took the utmost care not to “splash solder” around while installing and/or removing the memory. I taped up the surrounding areas of the board and components with kapton tape before performing any work with hot air or an iron. High quality flux was used and cleaned up. I examined the board thoroughly multiple times and I cannot physically see an issue. Using hot air I carefully reflowed the factory RAM as well as the three that I added. My question mainly is where should I be looking for a solution to this issue? This is not the typical 3 reboots then FRAG problem. Is there a power related component I should be looking at? Any help is greatly appreciated.

I had originally installed Thief Deadly Shadows from a ROM but it failed to launch. I then ripped it from my disc to SSD and it worked okay when I tested the install. I went to play tonight from the copy ripped to SDD and again, no launch. I am just getting black screen having tried to launch from XBMC4Gamers dash and when using the default.xbe in File Manager. What is stranger still is when I try to play straight from the disc I get the same result. The disc is in perfect condition and everything else is working just fine. Any ideas?

I have a 1.0 Xbox. It’s really close to the 1.1 change over but pretty sure it’s a 1.0. It was starting up fans and drives originally but still FRAGing. I tuned up the disc drive and I can tell the HDD sounds like it’s not running well, but still no boot at all. I could at least tell that the clock Cap had leaked so I decided to pull that. I got it out nice and clean and cleaned up the area around it but it didn’t look bad. No corrosion on front or back really. I reassembled for testing and now I’m getting the same FRAG but with no boot sounds. No disk spinning, no fans, nothing except the FRAG light. All I did was take out the clock Cap. Thinking about doing a full Cap replace on the board and PSU. Any other advice or things to test first?

I found that if you rip your disc with DVD2Xbox using the ISO ripper mode, the dump can be used with Repackinator. There are a few steps in the middle but it works great! Technically, you can create any kind of file you like once it is in a format Repackinator will accept. Just keep in mind that scrubbed CCI is the smallest file we can get that still known to work with title updates, DLC, and Insignia.

Hi everyone, There are numerous posts throughout the interwebs with people reporting vertical lines showing in the boot animation and MS dashboard when running in 480i. The standard response when people bring up the issue seems to be be 'check your capacitors' and 'just force 480p'. I've seen some people report their caps are either fine, or they replaced them with no change, and I know that forcing 480p does fix the issue, but what I would like to understand is, are there systems using the Conexant encoder which don't suffer from this 480i issue, or is there anyone who had the issue who actually solved the issue by replacing caps and if so, which capacitors solved the issue? Thanks for any feedback. This just seems like one of those issues which have affected a number of people but that the community maybe doesn't understand the actual cause.

i've seen some bad info out there for noobs trying to mod a xbox for the first time. the 2 main ones are to null or modify your hdd key(without disclosing any of the dangers) instead of just keeping the old hdd as a backup to create another drive if needed and the 2nd one is to pry the gpu heat sink off. please don't do this, especially on a xbox that has sentimental value to u. this is a good way to ruin it. we really need to start being more careful what we tell noobs to do. i know my original xbox has a lot of sentimental value to me because it still has the game saves from where i used to go to lan parties with it back in the mid 2000's. i'd be heart broken if one of these guides caused me to ruin it. many other would probably feel the same way about theirs.

Hello, This is my first post. My xbox is random freezing with buzzing noise. I have no choice but to turn it of. After turn it on, it goes into boot loop, turns on and of automatically. I have to wait an hour and it will work again. It is modded with Xblast and 128mb ram. The clock capacity has been removed, the board has been cleaned and also fixed 2 broken traces a few years ago. I used to play every day without any issues. It's been two months since I last turn it on. I don't see any leaking capacitors or broken traces. The only thing I can think of is the power supply that is very noisy. Was wondering if anyone has encounter this issue?

Lately the hard drive makes strange sounds, like "jumping" or scratching etc. So I formatted it(both low and hard level, with standard partition softwares) , checked it in Windows and done various tests like sectors and surfaces test: no problems were found. I reinstalled Slayer's Evox (latest), reuploaded all stuff, etc: same problems. At first boot, after many hours of inactivity, it goes well, but after a bit or just randomly the HD makes such weird sounds and the game crashes (especially Rallisport Challenge, a little more rarely with other games, both launched with TSR and IGR options set in various ways... though I noticed the problem is less frequent when TSR is on Normal and IGR is enabled). Maybe the HD is ok (also checked its compatibility before buying from the HD compatible chart I can't find now) but something else is wrong? I dusted the Xbox out, reconnected all cables: the problem is still there. Maybe it's not the sectors but the reader or any other part of the HD? Or maybe it's the way how files are uploaded to be wrong ( I use Filezilla, a router and normal ethernet cables, no crossover) ?

i have 2 hard modded xbox's. i just fired up the 2nd one after many months of none use. it has one of the aladin clone modchip's and the evo8 bios. i have it set to show the stock xbox start up flubber and X screen just like a stock xbox startup screen. when it goes to the X, it has a lot of silver in it. the machine seems to be working perfectly other than that. what would cause this and is it anything to be concerned about? everything was working perfectly from the push of the power button till i shut it down before i let it sit for months. it is a v1.6 xbox btw.

I've got 4 Xboxes I've softmodded for my family using Rocky's softmod tool, and I nulled the keys as well during that process (all zeros, but will soon upgrade to all ones to be compatible with Insignia - hopefully its an easy process to upgrade the softmod dashboard/tool). I currently have a larger drive in one of them that has the dashboard, emulators, and games set up just the way I want it. I want to put larger hard drives in the other three and have all four be the exact same setup. Rather than cloning the stock hard drive to a larger drive during the upgrade process and then spending the lengthy time FTPing over the hundreds of MB's of data with the data rate transmission limitations and drop outs inherent with FTP, since all the XBOX's have nulled keys I was planning on just taking the larger drive I've already set up and cloning it 3 times - and then putting those cloned drives into the other 3 xboxes. Much simpler and quicker. However, with Insignia needing the Serial Number, HDD Key, and Online Key for each Xbox would cloning a hard drive from one xbox and putting that newly created hard drive into another xbox change the way the serial number or online key is read in the "newly upgraded" Xbox and make it incompatible with Insignia? Or does it not matter as it will just pull the serial number and online key from the mobo and doing what I described above will still be compatible with Insignia? Thanks all!

Hello! I know there is a beta version of FATXplorer available and it supports the original Xbox. Is there any good tutorials on how to get started? Other than plugging in my OG Xbox hdd into my computer with FATXplorer running that is as far as I got. Nothing showed up for a drive to use so hopefully I'm missing a super simple step to get started.

https://imgur.com/a/OJsz0Uw please click that link so that u can see a video of what i'm talking about. you'll notice that there are vertical static(static as in fuzzy static on a tv not, static as in "unchanging") lines on the screen when there is a dark scene. the video doesn't show it too well but they are even easier to see in person. that is the opening sequence of xmen legends. i have this problem on 2 of my stock xbox v1.0's and on my modded v1.4(i also have the diagonal lines on it). the lines do not appear on my v1.6's. i've tried it on 2 stock and one modded 1.6 and none of the 3 have the problem. i am connected thru the official hd xbox thing(with the component cable outputs). i'm wondering if it is an issue with certain capacitors that cause this? if so, does anyone know which specific ones cause it? the reason i ask is because it would be a pain to fully recap each board of the xbox when they are functioning perfectly in all other areas so i'd rather just replace the specific ones instead of recapping the whole board. btw, none of the cap are bulging or show obvious wear. i know that the 1.4's are very prone to the diagonal lines because of bad caps but i don't which ones are the problem.

Dears My xbox 1.6 is working intermittently. Checking the PSU, it was identified that where it should present 5v, I find approximately 1v. In addition, there is noise in the low voltage sector. In visual analysis, there are no components with deformations. However, this behavior is intermittent and, at the moment I write to you, it is working normally. Any tips on how to fix?

Getting a quiet clicking noise when trying to boot, sound seems to come from the psu.

i have hard modded a 1.4 and 1.6 xbox. xbmc4gamers is my login screen. when i ftp to 1.4 while xbmc4gamers is loaded, i get great speeds in the mb's. when i ftp to 1.6 with xbmc4gamers loaded, i don't even get speeds over 500 kip's. i am also having network issues in game. unleashX seems to ftp great though. can anyone tell me what is going on? i'm running the same evo8 bios on both systems btu different chips.

HI people old timer here, with 3 og xboxes. Also have a series x, ps5, xbox 360 slim e and a ps3. regarding my original xboxes, i have an: OG1 (unknown mod picked it up at yard sale) with working dvd and 230 GB hdd. OG2 xbox with motherboard flash apparently or something? and another OG3 Xbox stock with a dead dvd drive. Ive long been into the modding scene, but never shown my face kinda thing. love og xbox and the memories i have with it. Im wondering if someone can direct me to where id get help with my army of xboxes. how do i figure out if the xbox is softmodded or modchipped without taking it apart? whats a motherboard flash? ive never heard of it but the guy i bought it off says its not softmod and its not modchip if u have 2 working modded xboxes with working dvds and a unmodded stock with a broken dvd, what would be the best way to also mod that? Im a big fan of Mr Mario and constantly look at his videos. Thanks all! have a great sunday/monday!

Hi everyone from Italy. I just purchased a component cable to improve the resolution of my xbox, modded with Evolution-X V+3935. I bought the cable after watching some youtube tutorials and reading some posts online where they claimed that by connecting the Xbox through the component cable and selecting NTSC in the game region settings of the Evo-X dashboard, the possibility to select different resolution would automatically appear in the Microsoft Dashboard also on PAL Xboxes. I have done all that but still no option to select different resolutions in the video settings of the Microsoft dashboard. I am stuck with the standard resolution. What am I doing wrong ? Am I missing something ? I read somewhere that on PAL Xboxes the hi resolution settings have been removed from the dashboard, and that this would require softmodding to reinstall them. Not sure if this is required also with an hard modded console, or if I am facing some other problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated !!

i've asked this question here before but was unable to locate what i needed. i would really like to play marvel ultimate alliance with the extra characters that came out later on the xbox360. does anyone know of a version of this game with the characters modded in that will play on my hard modded og xbox?

This is happening on a stock console btw, I've read that the Microsoft logo appearing indicates an XBE has been found to launch so it's more likely to be something besides the HDD, there's no error code or change in LED color. I could put a chip in it and see what happens but maybe someone else who's seen this before could share their experience and save me some time.

Hi, I have a 1.1 xbox with cerbios 2.0.3R, a seagate barracuda 2tb hdd, startech adapter and 80 wire cable from amazon. The problem is that the optical drive works only if cold booted with a disk in. After that I can swap disks without problems and everything is working. If I cold boot without a disk in, and I insert it after a dash has booted after checking the disk the dvd status become Busy (XBMC) or unknown (unleashX). Same for games or audiocd. The only quirk is that if I coldboot with an audiocd and swap for a game, the xbox still see the disk as an audiocd. I also tried m8+ and it's the same. Interesting is that if I set cerbios without the nodvd patch it can't find the dvd drive and frag but if I cold boot with a disk in, it finds the drive and boot as normal. Where could be the problem? Thanks

Hey folks It has been some time since I last posted. Hope you're doing well... What have you been up to? I recently preordered the new version of the HDMI+ mod from MakeMhz which will arrive in july and i wanted to upgrade one of my my existing xboxes with it. Since I'm going to solder anyway and i got some RAM chips laying around, i thought about upgrading the RAM as well. In this regard, i was wondering if there is a BIOS that supports both (HDMI and 128MB RAM). Is the MakeMHz-BIOS taking advantage of 128MB RAM? Does somebody have some experince with this? Thanks in advance for you thoughts! Greetings Bot

Hi. I just got a second xbox classic, but with the problem that it's missing the hard drive. It's hard-moded with xc-changer chip. I have some knowlage, but still need some help. My plan is to first backup the eeprom using rpi or arduino (i have both). After that I have to find a compatible hdd (or maybe ssd). And at the end I have to use the eeprom backup to change the hdd key using a pc (forgot the name of the program). Correct me if i'm wrong. I appreciate your help.

I've placed all the files properly and set jumpers correctly. BFM loading seems to happen and then blank screen. I'm using a Pound HDMI adapter. Do I need to buy composite cables? I've read that that is probably the reason for my present misfortune. Anybody have luck running with HDMI? As a side note, ANY time a BFM is loaded on my machine, my partition table is ERASED. It's kinda freaking me out. I keep having to boot with my X3 bios, run XBPartitioner, write the table, and then Cerbios will see F:. Any idea why BFMs keep wiping out my table? ISO loaders do the same thing.

A few of us at Steel Battalion Online OG Xbox community have put something together just in time for Insignia's beta launch. A relatively simple & cheap method to use modern gaming headsets with the OG Xbox Voice Chat Comm's. No hard mods necessary just a couple adapters from Amazon and you will be Golden. We've tested and with your modern headset you will get game audio, voice chat and microphone compatability all in the one headset like it should be. Full Guide can be found here with links to required hardware. https://www.reddit.com/r/steelbattaliononline/comments/yr9d7u/a_few_of_us_steel_battalion_players_have_figured/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=android_app&utm_name=androidcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button