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This is my second mod and I cannot for the life of me understand why the mod isn't working. Perhaps another modder would be able to help me out? The Xbox already had a softmod and boots up in UnleashX After the mod, the boot animation is showing the EvoX logo. Updating the bios is no problem, installed updated EvoX M8 plus bios Trying to boot from a Hexen, OG xbox install disc or Slayer's disc is not working. OG xbox installer DOES work in the softmod Trying another hdd gives an error 13 (160gb and 250gb ide, and sata 500gb drive with green adapter) I tought the problem could be a problem with a solder joint or a short as a result of my soldering error. Went over them with multimeter, does not seem to be the case. I'm at a loss right now trying to figure out what the problem is..

Hi all, dug out my old xbox original which was last booted up around 15 years or more ago to find it not working as I left it. It's an xbox original with a Xenium modchip in it (one of the ones that you push in and then have a wire that sits in one of the solder holes - picture attached). As an additional problem I can't remember a thing about how it is set up or where the wire should be or what the extension cable (which currently not connected) even does and can't find any of my old notes on it. So any/ all help very much appreciated as to how to proceed on this. Basically, when you switch it on, it currently flashes green three times then goes to a green, red, green, red repeating colour change. If I move the wire out of the hole that it was located in, then it boots into normal mode and I can set the time etc. As soon as I put the wire back to where it was, then it does the not booting and colour sequence as above. Pic attached of modchip. If more information is helpful on something specific please let me know!.

I have this xbox PSU TUSCANY model but with missing components ,and i wanna repair it Can anyone help me with missing components reference. thnx.

Hey everyone, apologies if this is in the wrong place. I recently bought a component cable from eBay, the ones made from a 360 component cable and standard ogxbox composite. I downloaded enigmah-x and changed from pal to ntsc, enabled 480 and 720p. I plugged it in and there’s a weird green tint to everything. The Xbox splash screen seems ok (the evox logo doesn’t appear greener) but the xbmc menu does. Anybody have any ideas what could be causing this? The composite cable works fine. I even turned up the red setting on my tv but that just made everything orange. I love electronics, why don’t they feel the same? Why can’t I just blow into something and it work? I miss my nes. Thanks again, Rob

Hello everyone! I will tell you about my problem: I have an Xbox 1.0 with TSOP and 128Mb of RAM (I bought it pre-modified), I have tried to install an Aladdin Xblast by soldering the pinheaders to the LPC port and soldering point D0 of the motherboard to D0 of the chip (I have also tried soldering D0 from motherboard to ground on motherboard) and got FRAG. I have followed Barnito's Lpc Diagnostics (V0.1) guide (https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php?/topic/239-lpc-diagnostics-v01/#comment-945) to verify voltages and continuity. With respect to continuity everything is correct except pin 2 and with respect to voltages everything is correct (+-10% of the correct voltage) except pin 1 0V and pin 5 1.7V. If I disconnect the D0 cable from the chip or ground, or if I disconnect the Aladdin chip, the console boots correctly with the Cerbios bios that I flashed in the TSOP and boots my Xbmc4gamers. What could be the problem? (if photos are necessary, I'll take them later when I get home from work)

I recently bought a few 1.0 consoles with "no power" issues, 2 of them have this same 47K resistor marked R902 (measured from a good psu) and surrounding area burned, both resistors are basically ash. I have a couple of questions, is this a common issue with this model psu, is replacing these burnt components likely to save these things, or is the issue probably caused by something else that sent too much power through the resistor, such as the large transistor in front of it? Here's a pic of what it's supposed to look like:

Just being curious - i´m struggling with the "Hotplug"- Method in combination with an rather old USB IDE Enclosure (i suppose its from the early XP Times). Things i´ve done so far: While the XBOX HDD (WD80 with 10GB) is attached to it, things get extremely worse on my W7/Linux-PC. Its shown in the Device Manager/Drives as WD80, but not via WMIC, so Tools wont´t find the HDD at all. Hdparm (here /dev/sdc) would not resume and stalls the entire System. W7/Linux won´t shut down as long the Enclose is attached, neither does the PC boot (BIOS ginves me a B4 error, means USB Hotplug error). As soon as i power off the Enclosure/remove it, things will resume. Same happens when the drive is unlocked by the XBOX and hotswapped. But every other IDE drive in the Enclosure works fine. I understand that ATA Security could probably stall that old the Microcontroller in the Enclosure (somehow a 7.5 MHz RISC Controller), but i think as soon the drive is unlocked, this shouldn´t be a problem at all. -Or- the MC somehow resets the HDD again before it tries to obtain the drive data and the HDD is falling back to the point where ATA Security gets in Place, but i think the controller might have at least the ability to read out the drive data (Brand, Name etc) . Of course the Enclosure has always power while Hotswapping. Removing the jumper on the HDD (from Cable Select to Master) doesn´t do it. I got the Key for the HDD via my logic analyzer and its I2C Protocol Analyzer (Key has to be tried out). If things get completely worse, i could try to program an MC by myself and attach the drive to it in order to unlock it via Serial Commands (and remove the lock permanently, as well lock it again). But i think thats too much work. Done a AVR IDE/FAT32-Driver more than fifteen years ago (of course sources are lost by now), but somehow i won´t fiddle around again for only one purpose. I have another Seagate Spare IDE drive with 20 GB, which i could fit in the XBOX and try it to lock via the enclosure (if it does accept the command), but idk where or where to obtain the neccessary OS-files (including Softmod and the ability to connect to the XBOX via LAN/FTP, as well as a driver, wchih allows Access to a USB-Stick attached to a mechanically modified controller port). I understand that there have to be at least two Partition, C and E, but idk which FS (xfat?) etc. Any help is greatly appreciated ! Best regards Stef

Hey all, first post as I stumbled across this page while trying to research my halo edition xbox. I pulled it out of storage and wanted to sell it as I havent used it in forever and am fairly out of the video game collecting these days. Memory is pretty fuzzy on this as it's been awhile, but I bought this new when it came out, used it a good amount and then ended up putting the Xenium Ice modchip in with the solderless adapter. It's been in a closet for at least the past 10 years. I believe the hard drive and disc drive are original, almost positive I never replaced those. I hooked it all up and tested it, works great, the only game I had laying in the closet with it was Sneak King, so I tossed that in to confirm the drive still worked, no issues. The case looks great, no cracks. It is missing one of the rubber feet. Controller, power and video cables are the original ones that came with it. I'd like to get $300 + shipping for it, but am open to offers. Pics attached and happy to take others if anyone needs.

hi so as you may know my X2.6 chip for my 1.4 xbox is bricked I since got a jafar chip off ebay I snipped the plastic plug for my X2 off to expose the wires for solidering as far as i know i have 2 wires (one green one red) no i read on the github you can also "ground" D0 instead of soldering it, ground it to where a pin or what? trying to avoid solidering as much as possiable also used PiPROM to fetch my hdd key (this is a retail unit though im missing a dvd drive so it error 12's if all else fails i'll find a thompson at least to get ti up and running next month

I had originally installed Thief Deadly Shadows from a ROM but it failed to launch. I then ripped it from my disc to SSD and it worked okay when I tested the install. I went to play tonight from the copy ripped to SDD and again, no launch. I am just getting black screen having tried to launch from XBMC4Gamers dash and when using the default.xbe in File Manager. What is stranger still is when I try to play straight from the disc I get the same result. The disc is in perfect condition and everything else is working just fine. Any ideas?

I got a xbox og with no hard drive can I fix it?

Please see link to 10 images of board here https://imgur.com/a/nJotOX1 The machine in question is a v1.0 with fresh electrolytic capacitors installed everywhere a few weeks ago aside from the power supply (Foxlink, with resoldered power leads). It also has an Aladdin mod chip which I was running Cerbios 2.2.0 beta on previously. After successfully upgrading the RAM on a v1.4 machine yesterday I decided to do my primary xbox today. RAM in question is the leaded F-QC50 variant. They appear entirely to be authentic Samsung chips. With XBlast OS flashed to the mod chip, I began with the RAM install. First chip, test, success. Second chip, test, fail. Quick rework and second passes. Then I decide to do the last two together and test afterwards. Test shows 1-3 pass, number 4 fails. This is the one below the CPU and next to the connector from the power supply. Rework number 4 with an iron, not hot air, still fails, rework it again, still fails. Go for a third try and now the Xbox will momentarily boot with solid green LEDs (hard disk spins up, fans spin normal speed, LED on mod chip illuminates) then quickly cuts power. Then will turn itself on again about a second later, usually with no LEDs on the eject button, fans spin normally, LED on mod chip lights, then power cuts out. There is no display. I also swapped in a known good power supply from a different v1.0 and no difference was made. This cycle appears to repeat indefinitely. Sometimes the LEDs on the eject button light up green, sometimes they flash green, other times there is no light at all. I have tried with no disc drive and no hard disk, with just one of those, and with both of them. I removed the fourth RAM chip in an attempt to rule out the chip itself, however the same result ensues. I then removed a factory RAM chip (M-QC50) from a known good console and installed that in the fourth slot, no change. I ended up removing that chip so only ones that passed the test in XBlast are installed. I know it is possible for the chip to be bad, yet still pass. I took the utmost care not to “splash solder” around while installing and/or removing the memory. I taped up the surrounding areas of the board and components with kapton tape before performing any work with hot air or an iron. High quality flux was used and cleaned up. I examined the board thoroughly multiple times and I cannot physically see an issue. Using hot air I carefully reflowed the factory RAM as well as the three that I added. My question mainly is where should I be looking for a solution to this issue? This is not the typical 3 reboots then FRAG problem. Is there a power related component I should be looking at? Any help is greatly appreciated.

I have a 1.0 Xbox. It’s really close to the 1.1 change over but pretty sure it’s a 1.0. It was starting up fans and drives originally but still FRAGing. I tuned up the disc drive and I can tell the HDD sounds like it’s not running well, but still no boot at all. I could at least tell that the clock Cap had leaked so I decided to pull that. I got it out nice and clean and cleaned up the area around it but it didn’t look bad. No corrosion on front or back really. I reassembled for testing and now I’m getting the same FRAG but with no boot sounds. No disk spinning, no fans, nothing except the FRAG light. All I did was take out the clock Cap. Thinking about doing a full Cap replace on the board and PSU. Any other advice or things to test first?

i almost lost everything in a house fire the fire happened two years ago and at that time i slimmed down my xboxs and only had two of them one just a softmod the other the xecuter 3 now let me tell you these xboxs were directly under my 55in flat screen tv and the tv melted all down on the xboxs now im here to tell you that Microsoft built a tank when they built these things because softmod survived i mean the case is junk both power and eject buttons were melted together i had to break the case apart and pull the power/eject pcb board out to turn it on now i have not cleaned the mother board or anything and it functions so i have hope i have not hooked up x3 to see whats up its the holy grail instead i have it pulled apart and trying to clean the mother board and mod chip and try to get it up and going again the switches are really bad one of the switches got so hot that some of the buttons fell off one switch came apart a spring came out but the switch might still work if you act like there is a spring there it will cycle but they are all melted in some way ie the switches now about the lcd screen i have it all pulled apart i might be able to salvage it it had some sort of tint on the out side of the glass witch is easy i just have to find out about what % tint it was but on the other side of the glass screen for illumination there is a white semi transparent film for even and soft illumination and now mine is is wavy like a pice of bacon and that will effect the screens back light illumination so if i can figure out the tint % and a good replacement for the backlight diffuser i think its what it is lol and to replace these switches https://imgbox.com/g/Pl9bJWtgsZ

I found that if you rip your disc with DVD2Xbox using the ISO ripper mode, the dump can be used with Repackinator. There are a few steps in the middle but it works great! Technically, you can create any kind of file you like once it is in a format Repackinator will accept. Just keep in mind that scrubbed CCI is the smallest file we can get that still known to work with title updates, DLC, and Insignia.

Hi everyone, There are numerous posts throughout the interwebs with people reporting vertical lines showing in the boot animation and MS dashboard when running in 480i. The standard response when people bring up the issue seems to be be 'check your capacitors' and 'just force 480p'. I've seen some people report their caps are either fine, or they replaced them with no change, and I know that forcing 480p does fix the issue, but what I would like to understand is, are there systems using the Conexant encoder which don't suffer from this 480i issue, or is there anyone who had the issue who actually solved the issue by replacing caps and if so, which capacitors solved the issue? Thanks for any feedback. This just seems like one of those issues which have affected a number of people but that the community maybe doesn't understand the actual cause.

Hello, This is my first post. My xbox is random freezing with buzzing noise. I have no choice but to turn it of. After turn it on, it goes into boot loop, turns on and of automatically. I have to wait an hour and it will work again. It is modded with Xblast and 128mb ram. The clock capacity has been removed, the board has been cleaned and also fixed 2 broken traces a few years ago. I used to play every day without any issues. It's been two months since I last turn it on. I don't see any leaking capacitors or broken traces. The only thing I can think of is the power supply that is very noisy. Was wondering if anyone has encounter this issue?

i've seen some bad info out there for noobs trying to mod a xbox for the first time. the 2 main ones are to null or modify your hdd key(without disclosing any of the dangers) instead of just keeping the old hdd as a backup to create another drive if needed and the 2nd one is to pry the gpu heat sink off. please don't do this, especially on a xbox that has sentimental value to u. this is a good way to ruin it. we really need to start being more careful what we tell noobs to do. i know my original xbox has a lot of sentimental value to me because it still has the game saves from where i used to go to lan parties with it back in the mid 2000's. i'd be heart broken if one of these guides caused me to ruin it. many other would probably feel the same way about theirs.

I believe I seen a Reddit post couple days ago by KaosEngineer touching on this topic the post was sometime back, I'm wondering if it's practical today to even attempt or even flash an pc optical drive. I am aware that you can of course get parts from other consoles.. I asked this out of curiosity as I lack the information and experience on the topic.

i have hard modded a 1.4 and 1.6 xbox. xbmc4gamers is my login screen. when i ftp to 1.4 while xbmc4gamers is loaded, i get great speeds in the mb's. when i ftp to 1.6 with xbmc4gamers loaded, i don't even get speeds over 500 kip's. i am also having network issues in game. unleashX seems to ftp great though. can anyone tell me what is going on? i'm running the same evo8 bios on both systems btu different chips.

i have 2 hard modded xbox's. i just fired up the 2nd one after many months of none use. it has one of the aladin clone modchip's and the evo8 bios. i have it set to show the stock xbox start up flubber and X screen just like a stock xbox startup screen. when it goes to the X, it has a lot of silver in it. the machine seems to be working perfectly other than that. what would cause this and is it anything to be concerned about? everything was working perfectly from the push of the power button till i shut it down before i let it sit for months. it is a v1.6 xbox btw.

Dears My xbox 1.6 is working intermittently. Checking the PSU, it was identified that where it should present 5v, I find approximately 1v. In addition, there is noise in the low voltage sector. In visual analysis, there are no components with deformations. However, this behavior is intermittent and, at the moment I write to you, it is working normally. Any tips on how to fix?

Hello! I know there is a beta version of FATXplorer available and it supports the original Xbox. Is there any good tutorials on how to get started? Other than plugging in my OG Xbox hdd into my computer with FATXplorer running that is as far as I got. Nothing showed up for a drive to use so hopefully I'm missing a super simple step to get started.

Anyone with these tools? vbsp.exe (17 de novembro de 2005) vvis.exe (Sep 7 2005)vrad.exe SSE (Nov 9 2005)

Hi everyone from Italy. I just purchased a component cable to improve the resolution of my xbox, modded with Evolution-X V+3935. I bought the cable after watching some youtube tutorials and reading some posts online where they claimed that by connecting the Xbox through the component cable and selecting NTSC in the game region settings of the Evo-X dashboard, the possibility to select different resolution would automatically appear in the Microsoft Dashboard also on PAL Xboxes. I have done all that but still no option to select different resolutions in the video settings of the Microsoft dashboard. I am stuck with the standard resolution. What am I doing wrong ? Am I missing something ? I read somewhere that on PAL Xboxes the hi resolution settings have been removed from the dashboard, and that this would require softmodding to reinstall them. Not sure if this is required also with an hard modded console, or if I am facing some other problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated !!