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Hello everyone, I love buying broken electronics and fix them as a hobby, last week i came across 3 xbox consoles ( V1.0 , V1.3 & V1.6 ) . I've never owned an xbox so i'm currently taking my time in learning as much as possible as i go through the repair/restorations, any comments or critiques are very much welcome. Just a FYI below are the status of each model i got, 1. Xbox Version 1.0 : Alot of Clock capacitor leak and very bad corrosion (i'll put a picture of the damage) the xbox was cleaned with contact cleaner and some vinegar as well and used a soft tooth brush, but the are above the clock capacitor is very well much gone and will need to be wired manually , also i can see two resistors non existent (picture incoming later) ; as a result this unit does not even power on at all , my guess is the power or eject button traces going up to the PIC microcontroller are broken i'll check it. 2. Xbox Version 1.3: This one is a USA model (110V) but where i live Mains is 220V so the power supply needs to be replaced with another PAL equivalent ( I'll post pictures later). Clock capcaitor leaked but the damage was not that bad like the V1.0 , all cleaned up . also the 3300uF caps were bulged so i replaced them. ( SIde note : This one is working with a transformer 220V-->110V but obviously I prefer to make it less clunky . I would really appreciate if someone would kindly lead me in the right direction as where can i find 220V power supplies for this model, much appreciated. 3. Xbox Version 1.6: This one had no screws whatsoever , the HDD in it is 80GB i doubt this is stock. The Xbox starts up but gives an error 06 which i believe means the HDD is not married correctly with the xbox so i ordered an aladdin XT to fix this problem ( I think that is the way to go ). Note : All the above CPU and GPU were repasted with a fresh new thermal paste. Please let me know if there are missing information, I'll update this post if needed. BR

have some weird Power issues, researched previous posts but didn't want to hijack their threads and not sure if they were the same situation anyway. Here's the current situation: Bought console off ebay with acknowledgement that power button did not work and that it powered on by simply plugging in or hitting the eject button...(sounds like classic trace rot). Clock cap was removed by seller and area cleaned, he also replaced thermal paste on CPU/GPU and verified that the console worked and played games. I have not verified trace damage extent yet but he said there was a little. The console appears to have other things going on other than trace rot and I wanted to see if there was something else I could test on the top of the mb based on the below current working status before I get to trace rot stuff. When I got it, after a couple of power cycles where it remained powered on plugging it in, it now no longer powers on simply by plugging in, instead it only does by hitting eject button, and when that occurs it only stays powered on for about a second. Stby voltage checks good at 3.3V and POWON just gets to 3.3V before it powers off. POWOK doesn't fully spool up. When DVD removed and only HD power still attached (or even if HD removed), it powers on via eject button for 6 seconds and provides the following readings: Eject button triggers POWON voltage at 3.3V for 6 seconds. POWOK registers at 3.3V as well until it cuts off. Even if button remains held down, voltage drops off on both at 6 seconds and it powers down All other voltages read correct during the 6 sec power on except the yellow which comes in at 11.8vdc Eject button LED comes on and flashes red. If DVD plugged in, when eject button pressed DVD is ejected and retracts before powering down No obvious Cap leakages/bulges discovered. Any ideas? Thank you!