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UPDATE: The seller is sending me a replacement board. No longer required. Got sent a board from an eBay seller that is FRAGGING out of the box. Many loose capacitors and I fear more underlying problems. I need a v1.0 or v1.1 board, as all I have lying around are single ATX power supplies. TSOP flashed preferred, but if not, then EEPROM extracted, if possible. Please PM.

Not done a chip install before but decided to take the plunge and have just received an Aladdin XT PLUS2 including pin-header. Thing is I have two options: install on a v1.0 or a v1.6. I've started by bridging the BT to adjacent GND point so when fitted the chip will be always be on. A bit fiddly and I overcooked the solder on one end but it looks clean enough. The question is what to do now: there are plenty of guides for the the v1.6 but that involves rebuilding the LPC which with my soldering skills I'm not 100% confident about. There is also contradictory information about the pin-header set up too. Some guides remove just one pin others like this very clear YT guide recommends removing four pins. The v1.6 LPC hassle made me tend towards using the v1.0 instead but the guides I've found for that are limited and seem unclear in comparison. Nothing at all about using the pin header, if there are any differences, and the pins that need removing or even what needs to be connected to what. Available pictures are particular poor. It also appears that to use the pin header I'm going to have to remove the existing solder from the LPC holes too. Is the info in the v1.6 YT tutorial about using 5v from the right transistor leg to make the LED only switch on when the Xbox is powered up applicable to the v1.0? Advice/info please.

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i recently obtained a broken xbox and i'm having 2 weird problems with it. (not the weird part)1st off, the power supply had a bad solder joint that i fixed so now the system powers on. (weird parts) 1. there is no picture on the tv screen at all even though the the eject button light turns solid green telling me that it detects the a/v cable. it flashes green/orange when the a/v cable is unplugged. but there is absolutely no change on the tv screen. 2. the disk drive does not eject even though i can take the top off of the drive and see the spindle turn and the laser move reacting to me pressing the eject button. i know a stuck dvd drive tray isn't uncommon on these system but i have tried 2 different drives in it that eject fine in another xbox. the only change i have made to the mobo is that i removed the clock cap which appeared to not even have leaked onto the mobo yet(i did this before testing the xbox which i wish i wouldn't have). the system also has mild rust on the tray underneath the mobo which suggest it's had moisture in it(even the dvd laser has rust on the metal around the laser lens). btw, it's a version 1.0 xbox. any idea what the heck is wrong with it? thanks for any advice.

Hi, I have a v1.0 that has recently started fragging, tries to start 3 times, and on the 3rd attempt, flashes red and green. No video. The hard drive spins up. A few weeks ago, it fragged a few times, but eventually it did start up, but now it won't. I got it about 10 years ago, clock cap had leaked, so it was removed, and the board was cleaned up with vinegar and IPA. No damage to the traces as far as I could tell. It performed well in the years since. I've tested it with a second hard drive that was prepared and works in it normally, but same result. I have tested the voltages on the 12 pin connector, and I'm only getting 11.49V on the 12V line. Also, seeing 2.54V on the PowON pin when the Xbox powers up; apparently it's supposed to be 3.3V. Other voltages are ok, 4.98 on the 5V, and 3.27 on the 3.3V. Would these abnormal voltages cause the Xbox to FRAG? Does anyone know what the PowON pin/line is for, is it a voltage from the mainboard back to the PSU?

Hi. I have one of the modded Xbox consoles that I bought from N64Freak last year. It's a v1.0 and the power supply has failed, I've tested the console with an old PC PSU just to verify that it's the PSU and it booted. Since the PC power supply has no chance of fitting into the console, and I can't find a power supply that isn't from the USA, I'm going to buy a broken console for spares and use the PSU from that. So here's my question then, I know that a V1.6 PSU likely won't work since it has 5V on in standby and POWOK has 3.3v in standby, while all the other models only have a 3.3V line active in standby. Will a PSU from a V1.1 up to a v1.5 work if I can source one? The v1.0 seems to have these cables running to the motherboard: 12v = 1 cable 5v = 3 cables 3.3v = 1 cable STDBY = 1 cable (3.3v) GND = 4 POWOK = 1 POWON = 1 The v1.1-v1.5 seems to have: 12v = 1 cable 5v = 4 cables 3.3v = 2 cables STDBY = 1 cable (3.3v) GND = 5 cables POWOK = 1 cable POWON = 1 cable Am I right in assuming I could just route the cables from a v1.1-v1.5 into the headers they belong in on the v1.0 motherboard, and just leave out the extra unneeded 5v, 3.3v, and GND cables? My main concern is whether the newer PSU will have enough wattage to power the console, since I was thinking that the v1.0 might have used more power.

Hi guys, I recently attempted an Aladdin XT plus modchip install on my xbox V1.0. Other then trying to suck out the solder from the LPC ports, the process was relatively smooth. When I first went to boot the box, the Aladdin instantly smoked hard so I it off. At the moment I'm trying to figure out whether it was my install error or a faulty chip. When I remove the chip and boot the xbox, it boots fine and normal. As soon as I add the chip back on, which doesn't smoke anymore, the xbox FRAGS. I tested the LPC pins and didnt get any continuity between ones I shouldnt have. I then tested to make sure the 5 and 3,3 voltages were still good and they were. I was gonna test each individual pin and see if maybe Im seeing 5V/3.3V where I shouldnt, but other then that I'm not sure if it was the install, but instead just a faulty chip. I bought it from Modchipcentral and I've gotten good stuff from them before. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks

HELLO TO EVERYONE!! After a long inactivity in this community , I come back with a game, it may be the first time to be modded in xbox, like this one. So I replaced some old textures with better and with a higher resolution (512x512) that the xbox support. And THx!!! Here some of screenshots: DOWNLOAD & More in MODDB

pcb 1.6mm fabrication thickness enjoy. gerbers included Gerber_999999977_20190525051758.zip

Hi guys, I posted over at the subreddit but figured I would get more eyes here: The og Xbox is a v1.0 and I rebuilt the stock HDD with Xboxhddmaker after a failed softmod clone months back. I created my own EEPROM reader following Slot1Gamers helpful video to get the HDD key. More info is in the reddit post, but it might be TL;DR. The fact that this thing is artifacting makes me think it is a hardware issue like the GPU and/or CPU just sh$% the bed or something? The lone suggestion was to reball / reflow the board. Has anyone had similar issues and this solved it? Is there a schematic of a v1.0 board that I could use as a checkoff list if I go the reflow route? i suppose I could just take a photo and mark off areas in MSPaint or something... any tips? https://imgur.com/PCx5bff https://imgur.com/CPG979H Things to note are: - I removed the clock cap https://imgur.com/7C4PWBZ - I repaired Trace A of corrosion damage (B, C, D, E all check out continuity) https://imgur.com/eVqgBYI - I removed factory thermal compound and replaced with ArcticSilver5 Cheers guys, I want to fix this thing!

Hey all! I’ve got a couple Xboxes in the office I’m trying to renovate and maybe get back up and running. They seem to be in pretty terrible shape. This post is primarily about my 1.0, but I also have a 1.1 that boots up three times and instead of standard red/green, it flashes orange and does not power off with the power button. Clock cap leaked, too. A lot. I replaced a few capacitors nearby as they looked bad too but same deal. I cleaned the board three or four times with rubbing alcohol, it looks pristine - can’t find any bad traces. I haven’t looked at the P/E board yet; could this be an issue? Anyway, main part of my post: i have a 1.0 Xbox that seems like it’s FRAG’ing but not quite. It turns on - no video - and after a bit, the front LED flashes green. After a bit of this it goes to red/green, still no video. I haven’t cleaned this one yet, but I have taken a look at the board and can’t find any super obvious problems. Clock cap does look to have leaked a little bit, but a quick cleaning and removal did nothing to fix it. One of the vias nearby looks as if it may be burnt. I’ve attached photos of the entire board here, I hope someone knows or spots something here I wasn’t able to. These boxes deserve good homes!!! Quick edit: this box has never been modded, not was it even opened before I started trying to fix this issue, warranty stickers and all. From the writing on top it looks like she gave out on the previous user and made its way from their garage sale to me.

hi i have been given a v1.0 and someone removed a chip refilled lpc and and all box does if frag is there any v1.0 lpc diagrams available thx in advance

XBOX v1.0 ST TSOP iND-BiOS 5003 06 Minebea PSU SAMSUNG Optical Drive 500GB SATA w/ high performance PATA adapter 1Ghz CPU (courtesy of N64Freak) 128MB RAM (courtesy of N64Freak) Emustation/CoinOps w/ Chihiro ROMS. Dual Dash (Retail + Debug) GhostCase Protected AC Power Adapter A/V Composite A/V Component Aftermarket Controller Aftermarket USB Adapter. Video:

A friend gave me a v1.0 board that was causing problems for him. I put it in a standard early case, attached everything and proceeded to test it. I wanted to update the BIOS (TSOP) so I attempted to run the Hexen DVD. The DVD tray would open, I placed the disk in the tray and pushed the button to close. The Unleash X menu continued to show "Open". I tried this with two known good working DVD drives - one a Samsung and the other a Hitachi.. I changed cables and PSU with no difference. I also checked to see if there were any bent pins for the DVD power cable. All good. I switched-out the power button/DVD drive button harness. No difference. Then I tried a good Thomson DVD drive. Everything worked flawlessly.. What is that all about? Is there a different command structure for the early v1.0 boards that limits which DVD drives will correctly operate with them?

OK, if it has the GPU fan, is it DEFINITELY a 1.0?