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  1. og xbox 1.4ghz and ram upgrade anyone have one for sale let me know will pay high cash for one ok thanks
  2. og xbox 1.4ghz and ram upgrade anyone have one for sale will pay asap let me know ok thanks
  3. How? (more specifically, where to get one?)
  4. Hi - I recently updated my hard drive using HDM v 1.9 and it is now ready to mod - I have two options 1. Since I have all the files from back in the day to use Splinter Cell the SID I could mod it easily then I can use put Rocky 5 over it using the Rocky 5 disk. OR 2. Go to the trouble of setting up Rocky 5 Memory card mod -using a flash drive and Splinter Cell - have all the leads from back in the day and recently downloaded all the files and software needed. My question is does it matter if I choose the lazy option (number 1 above) or since I'm starting afresh with a new drive should I take the Option 2 route? Thanks in advance
  5. I have to start by saying thank you in particular to Floydzabarber as I must have watched his video about the RAM upgrade a dozen times. Well, I ordered some chips a couple weeks ago and I gave the RAM upgrade a try tonight. I performed the "surgery" on a rev 1.1 board and all the pads were nicely tinned, which was a bonus. Here are my tools of the trade which made this upgrade a breeze: Hakko FX888D-29BY Digital Soldering Station T18-D16 Soldering Iron Tip (bevelled, which originally came with my Hakko soldering station) Kester 24-6337-8806 245 No-Clean Flux Core Solder, 63/37 .015" MG Chemicals 836-P No Clean Flux Pen JARLINK 30X 60X Illuminated Jewelers Eye Loupe Magnifier 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol Liquid Cleaner (used with cotton swabs) To start, I highly recommend that you stay FAR, FAR away from a hot air / rework station for this project unless you have wicked, magical skills with soldering. Even then, I'm sure it would be way slower to use a hot air / rework station as compared to a proper soldering iron. Prior to jumping into the soldering phase, I installed a modchip with the 256kb crcwell.bin BIOS. That is the XBlast OS which will boot and test the RAM. You definitely need to test that your Xbox is booting into this BIOS before commencing the RAM upgrade. The tip of the soldering iron, for me, is a multipurpose tool. The tip that I identified above was the perfect size (for me) and it had a small bevel that I used as a gauge for how much solder to apply. I would apply a little less solder for the short sides as compared to the longer sides and that same tip was the perfect tool for removing solder from bridged pins. (Do yourself a favour and at least go get a small bevelled tip for whatever soldering iron you are using.) To prep the board, I cleaned the tinned pads with a cotton swab and the Isopropyl Alcohol. (I think if I were doing the mod on a board that didn't have tinned pads, I'd probably tin them first.) I then used a flux pen to wet the pads liberally. I placed the chip in the proper orientation (as the chip next to it) and then I verified that it was nicely aligned by using my eye loupe while keeping it from moving with a soft press of my finger. (Okay, I'm getting old and my sight isn't what it used to be. LOL!) As I held the chip in place, my other hand prepped the soldering iron (set on 750 deg f) to ensure that it looked nice and shiny. (If your tip isn't prepared correctly you will have a problem.) I then put a tiny amount of solder on the tip of the soldering iron and dragged it fairly quickly across the pins on one side. (It is important to note that I only ever added solder to the tip once per side.) I cleaned the soldering iron tip and repeated the process for the other sides. (As soon as you touch a pad with the tip of the iron you can see the solder shoot up the pin to the top. Never hold the iron tip on a pad, not even for a second. There is no reason to ever do that with this RAM upgrade.) After I did all four sides, I noticed that a couple of pins were bridged. (This totally happens and you need to handle the removal of extra solder correctly.) First, I added lots of flux to the bridged area and then I cleaned my soldering iron tip so that no solder was on it. (I used a wet but dry sponge.) Instead of dragging the tip across all pins, I rotated the iron by 90 degrees so that I could "pet" or stroke the chip's legs/feet. It only took a split second for the solder to quickly wick onto the surface area of the tip of my iron. After each attempt, I cleaned the tip and if I noticed that there wasn't enough flux on the pins, I added it before the next attempt. The solder wicks away typically in under three attempts at cleaning the bridge because I don't use much solder at all in this process. When I was happy with what I could see with my naked eyes, it was time to look at the work with the loupe (lighted magnifying glass). I'll start by saying that a jewelers loupe is a very inexpensive item that will easily fit in your toolbox and I believe it to be an essential tool for soldering chips (unless you have a microscope). A lighted jeweler's loupe (for me) is much better than a standard magnifying glass. With the loupe, I checked from the top to see nice separation between the pins and then I changed the viewing angle and looked between each pin on the chip and the pad on the board. Once I completed the verification with the loupe, I cleaned the soldered areas with the Isopropyl Alcohol, hooked up the board to the case and booted it up. It immediately went into the XBlast OS and I saw the 128MB at the top of the screen. From there, I then went into the tools and ran the RAM test and all was good. Anyway, I thought I'd share my experience in an attempt to inspire some of you to try this out. If any of the more experienced members would like to provide me with some good criticism, I welcome that too. Cheers!
  6. I can’t seem to find a clear answer anywhere. Do I remove the jumper pin from the sata HDD since the sata/ide adaptor has its own jumper pin selections? I just need to know the configuration so I can clone it using chimp. Any help would be appreciated thanks!
  7. I've near zero experience with hard mods on the og xbox. I'm pretty savvy with soldering so I'm considering doing a ram upgrade. I've got an aladdin XT clone in the mail. My question is this: Which bios will I need to flash on a 1.6 xbox for it to recognize 1tb of storage and the 128mb of ram?
  8. Selling a tsop'd v1.2 mobo w/ ind-5004 bios & 128mb RAM upgrade... $80
  9. Hello OG Xbox Members i am new here and i am here to stay.... However i am in trouble with something right now i recently picked up a MAXTOR PATA133 DIAMOND MAX 10 200GB (IDE HDD) and it seems to be failing when cloning with chimp not sure if i have to reformat the drive and repair the bad sectors but how would i do that using my PC is there a way i can use the IDE cable from the xbox and plug it into my motherboard from my PC and clone my HDD that way any programs out there for such activities Or would it be best for me to buy a IDE to sata connector from ebay and just use the 2TB 3.5" barracuda HDD that i just have laying around not sure if i will even need that much space unless i download the A-Z games list has me thinking thos please any suggestions to help me sway my ideas would be helpful sorry for any mistakes whilst typing Tired moments Kinx Gorilla
  10. Tryin to upgrade a hard drive. Its a 1.4 . . . It IS just the 2 bridges i need to do right? . . .
  11. does anyone on here know how to upgrade the cpu on a original xbox cause I would like to preform that mod but I do not know what to buy to do it.
  12. What would it cost to get this done I’ve tryed looking no good
  13. I’m thinking of upgrading the ram not sure is it worth it
  14. So I really want to upgrade the HDD but I'm super worried about bricking my system. How risky is it and what are the best steps to take for preventing a brick?
  15. Hi guys, I have an odd issue with my ram upgrade. At the moment I have 3 of the 4 chips soldered to the board and it boots "properly". When I initially had the 4th chip installed, the system would still boot but it would not give me the full 128mb only 64. I figured it was re-flow. So far I have gone through many rounds of remove, reflow and wick and such and it has brought me to the current point I am at now with 3/4 chips installed. I thought I could use Xblast (through .xbe launcher) to try and see if the chips are at least working but whenever I try the RAM test it always freezes up the system. I was using the newest version of Xblast OS. I was wondering if anyone had any solutions on this situation? Ive spent way too many hours trying to figure this out so far. All RAM chips are of same model number as well. Thanks
  16. Hi guys, I have an odd issue with my ram upgrade. At the moment I have 3 of the 4 chips soldered to the board and it boots "properly". When I initially had the 4th chip installed, the system would still boot but it would not give me the full 128mb only 64. I figured it was re-flow. So far I have gone through many rounds of remove, reflow and wick and such and it has brought me to the current point I am at now with 3/4 chips installed. I thought I could use Xblast (through .xbe launcher) to try and see if the chips are at least working but whenever I try the RAM test it always freezes up the system. I was using the newest version of Xblast OS. I was wondering if anyone had any solutions on this situation? Ive spent way too many hours trying to figure this out so far. All RAM chips are of same model number as well. Thanks
  17. I used chimp program, to unlock a hard drive , but when I try to lock it back up . The hard drive doesn't lock and i get error message. Is there a better way and how . thanks
  18. Hi Everyone, I have a Winbond TSOP flashed 1.4 xbox, Using EvoX M8+ F and G bios. Used the Hexen 2018 disc. just upgraded to a WD 2TB HDD. After upgrading I got a black screen. I put everything back to normal (original HDD) and is working. The adapter I'm using: SATA Adapter Cable I'm using: 80 wire cable Video of xbox turning on: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qTHcKnIUwF4 After looking at the SATA to IDE adapter, the capacitors looks bad. They have some white stuff. Could this be the adapter? the adapter is set to master Capacitors: https://image.ibb.co/bP0yd9/20180808_190838.jpgInsert other media https://image.ibb.co/mQ5mWU/20180808_190845.jpg https://image.ibb.co/cpgRWU/20180808_190852.jpg
  19. Is there a place where I can get an upgrade for my old xbox? I was looking for one those freidmtech dream series, but to my bad luck their website is Offline? is there any possibility to get and upgrade console somwhere else? ebay doesn’t have any. Thanks for any possible replys.
  20. I have been working on my first moded xbox i Tsops flashed ind bios on it and all went well next i was working on a HDD Chimp would lock up every time the new drive was plunged in so i went to format it useing HEXEN 2017 it did finish the format when i boot this drive i get to a Black screen no errors and i can reboot hexen tried it 2 times last night any ideals of what i can do info on this hdd its on the list for 1.6 with 80 cables i figured it would work on a 1.0 with tsop and 80 cables its SATA have a converter with compactors and a jumper and padding on back im at a Total loss at this point
  21. I'm after a little assistance if you can. I've TSOP'd one of my units successfully for the first time so I'm rather happy. I'm now trying to upgrade the Hard Disk and I have the Hexen 2017 burned. I've installed the HDD and it's detected by Hexen at boot and formatted it all ok. Problem I have now is in the menu I'm trying to basically install a dash etc.. and its asking for a password. I'm entering the password as shown on the screen but it says password is wrong. I've attempted this a few times and I know I'm entering the password correctly but it's not accepted. Am I missing something or am I just dumb? Any help would be fantastic.

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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