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Hi All, I have a long holiday coming up and to fill the time and challenge my self I bought some broken mainboards from eBay. As you can see from the photo, this boards is butchered! I was wondering if I can use the 1.6 upgrade method to add the missing memory ic?

Last week I purchased a nice OG to revisit a console that I'd had so much fun with 2 decades ago and to do some modding on. I set out to finally recreate one of those Friendtech/trusty/n64freak consoles that I'd wanted to do for a long time, but unfortunately never followed up with. This was made infinitely simpler after n64freak opened up sales of his bare interposer boards, so now the daunting amount of work for engineering these boards myself from the Friendtech patent file and datasheets can be skipped. I sourced the components for the clock switching circuit on the interposer, which totaled an astonishing €5 from Digikey, while I needed to spend €50 to qualify for free shipping. This quickly spiraled out of control, I ordered everything x10... There's another 10 CPUs coming my way and there's a 10-high stack of never-been-opened xboxes behind me already. While awaiting components to arrive, I've been reading about this upgrade and this left me the impression that these CPU-upgraded consoles at some point were highly sought after. I'd like to gauge current interest and am trying to get global idea of what these units should yield when sold. I was thinking of offering the following for €275: - Clean motherboard with CPU upgraded to a 1.4GHz/512kB cache Tualatin using n64freak's interposer - RAM upgraded to 128MB by installing the 4 additional chips - OpenXenium modchip installed (or only with a flashed BIOS for some discount) - no PSU, HDD, DVD, case since cost of shipping twice easily exceeds sourcing an xbox locally for most locations I still have to think about a proper reliable solution for the heatsink if these boards are to be shipped. Any thoughts?

Original Xbox 1.1 are 1.4 all have 128 mb of ram the Clock Cap has been removed I have 6 black and 1 cristal £80 posed £90 for the cristal plus any fees console only it will have a mod chip installed and the 8 gig hdd Some of the dvd drives have week laser possibly

Hi, have a fresh repair xbox 1.4 console but now I should replace hard disk and put a one stock taken from another hard disk how can I do? The console modded with openxenium modchip.

Found a good cable at the right price. This is my 1st time doing this so want to ensure I don't get the wrong thing. Can anyone confirm this is the correct cable for the cable upgrade? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285945357382?_skw=40-Pin+80-Wire+Ultra+ATA+2-Drive+Ribbon+Cable&itmmeta=01J8FJNTK17R82D1ZCRYBY15EN&hash=item4293abe446:g:yyEAAOSwn79miQYA&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8HoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKm7iQbBnl8fbU52nphsfcwuAH31NaccGcUbV80i4JT902JWYi6f4XgAav7Xybkxh1nxEmx63PsR38SqwGwENGp7DTRE3m4H6f0AhMfeEom2EU0mRVj9TTuwmtUl6uPhmVFuEO51x%2B0sBMynTSTKHBWvl%2BZnkE5B4LTOj9bZj1yh6D17INxfH4%2B1L%2FzOqeL5lXFnpHxCNDJ5%2FJmSQ8cYLaxhS1s0aUcQJ4SXR0CWhj88TrZ%2FSk%2FbFas%2FO8OF%2FJ36KPcBkilHyXkb2%2BXk3Cbv59RMRHmkOumHImHfqEueFkznUw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8qp1_LDZA

Introduction: Designing the "Dual 80mm Fan Caddy" was a nightmare... It's been something I've been working on for a few years now. Tolerances were extremely tight, much of it had to be spot-on to fit correctly. The design has been split into separate pieces to better suit 3D printing. This reduces the chance of failures and helps produce quality prints. I was able to send a half dozen samples to volunteers for testing sometime ago. The results were far better than I had expected, I've still not had the chance to see for myself but I trust the feedback that was given to me.

I've been wondering lately about creating a small flex PCB interposer for 1.6 RAM upgrades. The QFP-100 pads are relatively long compared to the actual chip legs, it would be much easer to bend down a flex and solder it directly to the pads than it is to solder to the legs of the original chip (especially when using Hynix chips for the upgrade). I downloaded KiCad but I've never designed a PCB. I can't imagine it would be that difficult to create this flex PCB using an existing footprint placement with slightly extended pads. Has anyone else thought about this? Perhaps someone has already made something like this and I just don't know about it.

Hello everyone. This is the second time I've tried a ram upgrade on 2 different consoles and neither of them works. The first was a 1.4, soldering the chips was easy (used heating gun and kapton tape), it even worked partially with Xblast but then the trouble started, the box constantly freezes after it has been running for a few minutes.. The chips were from an dead 1.4 (clock capacitor death, ram was ok) So I removed all the chips, cleaned the pads (with a magnifying glass!) and there were no bridges or anything like that left, but the problem remained. The box keeps freezing after a while, no matter how often I re-solder over it. So I tried it on my 1.6 and soldered the first ram onto it (this time only with soldering iron 250°C), no heating gun) and hey, it worked for a short time and was also recognized in Xblast. Then suddenly exactly the same problem occurred, after a while the Xbox froze and sometimes showed image errors. Like this: So I took the additional ram off, cleaned everything (pins & pads), re-soldered the original ram but the problem still remained. I also removed the original ram, cleaned it again und resoldered it but nothing... I also re-soldered the components on the back site under the ram. Now i have 2 Xboxes with exactly the same issue. After a while it just freezes. Sometimes with image errors and sometimes just freeze. Sometimes after boot and sometimes after a while. I'm going crazy! Any ideas what causes this issue? It's strange that it's the same issue and it won't go away. Used Ram for the 1.6: K4D263238F-UC50 from AliExpress. It's no hdd issue (it's not connected) or something similar, i boot into the modchip menu where it also freeze. Modchip is also 100% ok. Maybe ram death? If so, why?

Hi all, Thought I would offer these out as they are sitting round doing nothing, bought the adapters and cables in bulk a while back and upgraded the adapters (100ohm resistor installed to R4 giving good boot times), used most but still have 5 kits available, comes with: 1 x brand new ATA 133 IDE Round Cable 1 x M03C IDE/Sata Adapter with 100 Ohm resistor pre-soldered at r4 The cables come with the rubber protectors near each IDE connector, I personally cut these off for ease of installation. £15 per kit plus postage (£17.50 posted)

Hi All, Today I just finished upgrading my 1.4 board with an X3 as the chip to 128mb of ram. The upgrade went great no issues with a hot air rework station. I flashed Xblast OS to one of the banks of the X3 and tested each chip as it was installed, I got a"success" on all 4 chips. Put the board back in and hooked it up, booted into X3 Config Live and the X3 recognizes 128mb of ram. Switched banks to the latest Cerbios release (2.4.1) and the box just hangs at the Cerbios Logo (not the dogs, I know about the issue). Any suggestions on this situation? I tried the 2.3.1 and got the same thing. I tried booting into Cerbios Safe mode with eject and got a black screen (no logo). I tried 2.3.1 udma 2-5. No luck Thanks for your replies, Zagman

Intro Since the beginning of time (2004) it was known that the 1.6 was missing the unpopulated footprints for the extra 4 RAM chips and this made the upgrade impossible. I was thinking recently that if all the signals for the extra RAM chips are still available on the board, we can add RAM to the 1.6 by just connecting all the necessary signals. After the tutorial segment I'll go into why this mod works. I'll also post a video on YouTube at some point. Be warned: this is more difficult that a 1.0 - 1.5 RAM upgrade Tutorial Required items Everything mentioned in the 1.0 - 1.5 RAM upgrade tutorial: https://consolemods.org/wiki/Xbox:RAM_Upgrade 4x 90mm long mod-wire. I used enamelled wire from a transformer. ~8 hours spare time Step 1: flash the modified XBlast OS BIOS XBlast OS (as a BIOS) is super helpful in doing this install correctly. It will boot with any number of extra RAM chips and includes a test for the additional RAM. XBlast OS will not show the 128MB test option on a v1.6 Xbox, so I've gone ahead and rebuilt it from source with that check removed. xblast_os_v0.60.bin Alternative Download Link: https://mega.nz/file/eeAwTZKQ#aaFcbACj3htA6cEtKwoiy1L7uK93o4YwUSqkGBEsUz8 If you don't trust my build, this is the line of code that needs removing: At this point, I suggest booting it up and running the test. The test is under Settings > Tools > 128MB RAM test Step 2: Remove the motherboard from the Xbox Step 3: Place the new RAM chip on top of an existing chip You'll want to solder down the corner pins first to get a good mechanical bond and so that you can adjust the alignment. I do this by pushing down pins 30 and 31 and soldering them down to the chip below. Then I check the alignment of the rest of the pins. If it's bad, then the chip can be nudged into position while reflowing the two pins. Then solder the two pins opposite. Step 4: Push down the rest of the pins Except pin 28! That is the chip select pin and it is unique for each RAM chip. Leave this pin floating in the air and don't solder it yet. Pin 30 is marked on the PCB. The pins come in a kind of ‾‾\__ shape. When you push them down, the whole pin will rotate around this end -> ‾‾\__ . I like to also push down the tail ‾‾\__ <- of the pin to get more contact with the chip below. Step 5: Start soldering all the pins Very little extra solder is required. Use lots of flux. I like the tacky flux that usually comes in syringes. I also like the drag-soldering method. If there's any excess solder, you will get shorts between pins and this extra solder can be wicked away. The new pins won't naturally touch the pins below even after pushing them down. Step 6: Check for shorts and missing connections For the first pass, I like to go in with a microscope and nudge each pin (of the new chip) with a cold soldering iron tip. If the pin moves easily, it is not soldered. Also check for shorts at the same time. If you have the patience (and want it to work first try without frying your Xbox), check for shorts and continuity with a multimeter. I skipped this the first time and got bitten! Best to clean the pins and pads with IPA before checking with the multimeter. Step 7: Add the chip-select wire First, figure out which bank you are adding: Then, find the chip-select solder point: Bank 1 CS is left of the label for C4P10 Bank 2 CS is between the labels for C4R12 and C4R13 Bank 3 CS is left and above the label for C4P21 Bank 4 CS is between and above the labels C4R1 and C3R1 For banks 2 and 3, the chip-select wire can go through the hole to the left of the GPU. For bank 2, 90mm may be too short, so check the wire length and cut it as short as possible. I removed the GPU heatsink to access this hole. At this point, it should look something like this: Step 8: Reassemble and test in XBlast For a quick test, I don't bother with adding the fan, GPU heatsink, HDD, or DVD drive. The test in XBlast should look like what I first posted on reddit: If the Xbox reboots twice and FRAGs, check the bios selection (if you have one available). A normal BIOS will not accept between 1 and 3 extra RAM chips. If the Xbox reboots three of four times (and it's faster than a normal FRAG sequence) check for shorts. This happened to me. Step 9: Repeat for the other 3 chips The first one is the hardest. Step 10: Reflash with your favourite BIOS Some 1.6 BIOSs won't support 128MB. The X3 BIOS works just fine and it's the only one I tested so far. xblast_os_v0.60.bin

Thanks to @zzattack and his help I have been able to more successfully complete CPU Upgrades (2/2) with his technique so far! Will be getting some units up for sale as soon as I can figure out the proper cooling technique! The VCORE Voltage Modifications necessary for 1.45volts on a v1.6 xbox is as follows (using 0ohm resistors)

Which Tualatin CPU models are compatible with Xbox for upgrade? 1.4 GHz is too expensive in my country, but 1.3 GHz is very cheap for example. Will there be a big difference in the final performance if the CPU is Hi! Which Tualatin CPU models are compatible with Xbox for upgrade? 1.4 GHz is too expensive in my country, but 1.3 GHz is very cheap for example. Will there be a big difference in the final performance if the CPU is suitable?

Hello, I have a 1.4 Xbox I tried to upgrade with ram chips from a FRAGing 1.6. I put only one RAM chip on as a test and it didn't boot into XBlast OS. So I thought the RAM chip was bad, I removed it, checked for shorts and with the console back in stock configuration it still FRAGs on boot. What could be the issue?

Hey gang. So I’m wanting to upgrade my Hard drive and am about to install a project stellar mod chip with HDMI bundle. I have a version 1.0 motherboard. Any suggestions on good hard drives for me? I wanna download as many games and emulators as possible so I’d prefer a bigger hard drive. Also do you think a ram upgrade would be necessary?

I’m attempting to upgrade to a 1 TB SATA HDD. I have the following: Xbox 1.4 Aladdin Advance modchip EvoX M8+ (EvoX.m8.ece.67.noDVD.UX.256.bin flashed from OGX Installer 1.5.4. MD5 4737a026fde9e799d9c7392d05971505) Seagate ST1000DM003 1 TB SATA HDD StarTech IDE2SAT2 adapter Gigabyte 80-wire IDE cable OGX Installer 1.5.4 (DVD-R burnt with slowest speed) I installed the SATA HDD and initially used the stock 40-wire IDE cable since the 80-wire IDE cable is a tight fit. I booted the Xbox with OGX Installer to setup the HDD. The DVD drive tries to load the disc but makes strange noises. It sounds like the laser head is stuck in a loop. It doesn’t do this when I boot the disc without the IDE2SAT2 adapter. After 30 seconds I ejected the disc as I didn’t want to possibly damage the DVD drive. I got the same result with the 80-wire IDE cable. I also tried the IDE2SAT2 adapter in master and cable select mode. The SATA HDD is listed in the Xbox Hard Drive Compatibility Chart, but I don’t think that matters since I’m using a modchip and the drive doesn’t need to be locked. The BIOS I’m using should have LBA48 support. What would be the most likely cause of this issue?

Hello, I have bought chips for this mod. I want to ask if after putting the chips 1 by 1 it is possible to test if it is soldered well or do they all have to be soldered?

I have the Aladdins. I made the jtag cable with 3.3v output utilizing a USB blaster. I managed to get the drivers installed in windows 11. I have the XBlast Aladdin svf file. I have quartus. I have a tl866II. I have the SST flash adapter for the xgecu. I have 1mb flash chips. I should have the software installed for the SST flashing. I have everything. Just don't know how to use the software. Tried urjtag and it just gave me bullshit errors and I don't wanna fuck with it. What do I do? @sweetdarkdestiny @KaosEngineer @SS_Dave @ModzvilleUSA

Hi All I thought I’d share my custom prints and files used for the OG CPU upgrade. https://github.com/ACE-AU I’ve done a heap of upgrades as of late. You can see them on my YT channel. https://youtube.com/@aceconsolerepairs?si=RRgvNWeJkBL1a7it I usually stream them live and there is a couple of uploaded vids showing the process. I hope someone has some use for the files etc.

The microscope is a total game changer. It's nice to be using brand new, unused RAM chips instead of having to question the chips I'm using. I think I'm confident enough now to perform this mod on all the boxes that now pass through my possession. Need to sell them though... Hopefully Facebook Marketplace can help me there!

Holy shit. This was quite the process and really tested my patients. First off I installed all 4 chips at once since I didn't think Xblast could be flashed to the tsop or that it wasn't a good idea. I know better for next time. Took me about 2 hours to get all the chips installed and I thought my soldering looked really good. No bridges, but all this xbox would do is frag. After fucking with it for about 4 hours I decided I had enough and put it away thinking the box was dead. This morning I decided to have another go at it, went back over my soldering and once again thought it looked really good but the damn machine still wouldn't boot. Now, I'm really frustrated. I take out the solder braid and start wicking off the solder in attempt to remove the chips. I notice that a couple of pins are slightly bent and might be touching other pads. I proceed to straighten them out, partially lifting a pad in the process. Once I get all of that done, I'm thinking there is no way this thing is going to start now. Well it surprised the shit out of me, it booted and all 4 ram chips passed. Maybe today is the day I should go buy a lottery ticket cause I feel pretty damn lucky this actually worked. If I do it again I'll be putting xblast on the tsop.

One down! 3 to go...

So I done a ram upgrade which resulted in a freeze, red/orange then frag (wasn’t able to test 1 by 1), removing all 4 chips didn’t fix the issue. Attempting it again with another board, first chip was a success with xblast, second chip was installed by the cpu, xblast then froze when checking that chip and now that console is fragging, again removing that one chip doesn’t fix the issue. Are the boards dead or is there things I can try?

Got a modchip installed in a xbox 1.4 that can be turned off when short pressed power on. What’s the easiest way to upgrade to a 2tb that it can be locked so it still boots factory? Chimp or just use a slayers disc format the new drive then lock it. There is nothing on the original 8GB that I want or need. Do I need to back up the eeprom?

I am upgrading the hard drive I installed sometime between 03-05 when I first modded my original xbox with an Xecuter 2. I don't recall which version of the chip I purchased I have all the parts I've seen suggested to begin. My issue is that I have not upgraded BIOS so its sitting at 4983.something. My board is 1.4 What is the recommended method and BIOS to get this upgraded or even upgrade my whole setup so I can utilize the full hard drive?