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My OG Xbox started to Frag after a recap using the Console 5 kits. The PSU has been successfully recapped, mod chip and the extra ram chips work as i did that before the recap, clock cap area is fine, i removed that cap quite a while ago and cleaned the area with isopropyl alcohol. Every cap is in the right place and in the right orientation. But i did install C3B1 near the AV port, the 100uf cap the wrong away around the first time. I fixed that mistake, powered it on again but i get a Frag. What could be the problem? I reflowed the solder many times, and can’t find shorts either. Images: https://imgur.com/gallery/WIgbUQI

OG Xboxers assemble! Come on guys, how has no one discovered what this Easter egg is? It's just a combination of button presses. Additional info found on Reddit: "That thread points out a section of the Xbox kernel's source code (which contains the startup animation code) which has checks to see if certain controller buttons are being pressed and then it conditionally fires functions to alter how the startup animation looks and behaves. The code has references to changing things like the presence of fog, shadows, the "blob" throbbing effect, and camera placement. There's references to "pause" and "camera under control", which makes me think you may be able to pause the bootup animation and then move the camera around the scene using the controller. The boot animation (and bootup sound) is rendered in real time in 3D and is not a pre-rendered video, which makes this all possible in theory. The presence of this code in the stock kernel indicates that it might somehow be able to be triggered by a user on a stock Xbox, if triggered correctly. Currently, simply pressing buttons during the bootup sequence doesn't seem to have any effect. There might be some missing component to trigger all this. Keep in mind, this is all speculation. Seamus could be referencing something else entirely for all we know. I also don't know for certain that the code in reference made its way into the final shipped kernel. It could have also been only present in certain versions hypothetically. EDIT: the code that handles processing button inputs is not active in retail versions of the kernel from what I can tell. There's a special flag that is basically used to indicate whether or not the build is being used for testing. If this "final build" flag is turned on, inputs aren't processed. Seeing as how you can only do this on non-final development builds, I don't think this is the easter egg he's talking about. I'd still be curious to play around with it though. It looks like a very simple thing to enable so I'm surprised there isn't a version out there currently that has this feature enabled, especially hacked BIOSes. It looks like this is a rather trivial flag to set during compilation."

Hi can you bypass the DVD, I keep getting error 12. I have a DVD which is causing system to not boot. I swapped a DVD with my only working one and I was able to softmod. Can i use the faulty drive for the check.

I've been trying to repair my Xbox this week after accidentally blowing the 110V PSU on 220V . I've got to make it work with a PC 200W ATX PSU yesterday, but this morning, it started to FRAG. I noted that the 3.3V line has gone down to about 2.85V when the PSU is connected to the motherboard and the PSU turn off after a minute or so. I'm pretty sure that there is a short somewhere in the 3.3V line. I noticed that the Nvidia MCXP3 chip is getting very hot when the PSU is connected, I want to know if this is common, because if not, I suspect that the short maybe inside the chip, which will mean that it is dead

hello my friends i have an xbox 1.0 and i want to install modchip for what is best one for it and also mine works with 100.125 ac and i want to change it to 200.245 ac because iam living in kuwait how i can change that and can i change hetsink fan and use thermal grizzly thermal paste

I was looking at the typical Aladdin XT 2 Plus modchips that are still available/being produced for the Xbox a while ago, and I thought to myself that the wiring to permanently ground the BT pad seemed a little inelegant. I took a quick look at the traces on the PCB and lo and behold, they trace back to adjacent pins on the Lattice CPLD chip! Going forward should I ever need to install another XT 2 Plus, I'll forego the wire and just bridge those two pins.

HELLO, Hey guys and gals. I have been a OG xbox owner since I kicked my PS2 to the side for real online gaming way back when. I never was much of a collector, just a gamer. As time has gone on I am now more of a collector and less of a gamer due to life and work always consuming the free time. Since I only ever owned a standard black console I have since started collecting for the now aging system, now I have a total of 12 OG xboxes. CIB JAP dead or alive system, a crystal clear system and a ton of the black ones to include an original Trusty mod console with an Xecuter 3 chip and the lovely front panel with screen and bank selection. I've also managed to snag a freshly built N64 Freak system direct from the source to round out the collection. What brings me here? Well all of these stock black consoles. I repair consoles and install mods for fun, started a small business to try and support my desire to tinker. I've done PC-Engine LT, Super CD-ROM, TurboGrafx, Turbo CD, Vectrex, Atari, etc rebuilds. HDMI mods for NES, Dreamcast, N64, OG Xbox, Saturn to name a few. Rebuild laseractives and many IPS screens to many handhelds, gameboys to lynx to wonder swans... At this point I've done most of the hardware stuff and I want and need to deep dive the software side to gain a better understanding. I've recapped, installed HDMI in most and added mod chips to most of the remaining black consoles and I want to upgrade the drives and make these things one stop shopping for gaming so I am here to learn. So if I can help out in any way let me know, talk collecting or share war stories I am all in. Cheers, Joe

Hi Guys So I wanted to share what I was recently able to do using xboxhdm23usb. So I softmodded my xbox, then what I did was null my hdd key. After that I backed up my eeprom and dropped it into the xboxhdm23usb folder. I then took out the hdd and connected it to an IDE to usb adapter and then used xboxhdm23usb to unlock the drive. (This was easy because I nulled the key). I then used a program called HDD raw copy tool and was able to make a complete image of the Xbox HDD. I then relocked the drive and put it back in the xbox (Working fine). I then connected up a spare drive and used HDD raw copy tool to clone the image i made back onto the new drive, then used xboxhdm23usb to lock it. I then popped that into the Xbox and it worked as well. I then used xbpartitioner to give the remaining space to the F Drive. The nice thing about this method, is that I now have an image back up of an xbox HDD with a nulled key. So I can easy clone it to a new drive and pop it into any xbox (Provided they nulled the key on that xbox as well). Let me know what you guys think.

I'm thinking the Ind Bios 5003-5004 as they also have support for 128mb ram

Hello All, I have an original xbox rev 1.3 and already installed an Executer 2.6CE modchip. I'm ready to order an upgraded 2TB or 3TB hard drive. I have been out of the scene for a long time and sure could use recommendations... Is this Seagate Barracuda the best choice? Or recommend something else that will be easiest? https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-BarraCuda-Internal-Drive-3-5-Inch/dp/B07H2RR55Q/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=st2000dm008&qid=1626155702&sr=8-3 Is there a better IDA to SATA interface than this one? https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Drive-Optical-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00EOJNGC2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=IDE+to+SATA&qid=1626155999&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMDIwM1JXUlg1VFg2JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDMwMzQ5MkFHQjZHTUxTRjQ0QSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODk1Mjg4WVlMSk41WFlLTTk4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== And this 80-pin cable ok? Any better one? https://www.amazon.com/s?k=40-Pin+80-Wire&i=electronics&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 Thank you! Robert

Is this possible? Preliminary searches on google show me a few things but I can't be sure so rather than searching high and low I though i'd ask you lot This is something I found btw, i've not even downloaded it yet so don't know if it contains a virus ( link to site, Sites clean ) https://www.h4ck.se/how-to-overclock-your-original-xbox-in-2019/

I recently got an Xbox v 1.1 and it worked for about a week. After cleaning it up and testing a few points to make sure things like caps didn't need replacing my psu stopped giving power to all the lines except the purple 3.3v line. It randomly let's me power it on and one of two things happen: 1.) The green light powers on for a second or two and then it shuts off. 2.) It flashes orange for about 2-5 seconds before powering off. It isn't consistent and only lets me power it on randomly. Any pointers on where to start looking on the psu before I start taking things apart further? Or is it possible it could be due to a fault on the main board that you guys know a little about?

It was a long time ago that I played this game (when I was around 7) so sorry if I can't recall the details or much of the information I'm about to give. Basically there's this 3rd person shooter for the OG Xbox that is very similar to Conker: live and reloaded or Fur Fighters but it's a bit more brighter and colorful. The characters were chibi-like and the gameplay was a team deathmatch and you could play in various maps; the couple I can remember were in a bathroom and the players were very small, another one was in like a circus but for this one I'm not very sure. Thanks for helping and I'm looking forward to the responses.

Hello, Got a v1.1 Xbox today that i wanted to TSOP flash, but it has some issues, before doing anything the console was tested. The hard drive is making some loud whirring sound, but it manages to boot to dash, this will be replaced with a bigger drive. The DVD ROM was locked solid, so after opening the console and the DVD ROM, and giving it a good clean, that is now working again. But when i tested the DVD to see if it ejects, which it does, every eject press the console now appears to soft reboot, i mean it restarts but doesn't power cycle. Anyways i soldered the points on the mobo, and continued to flash which was successful, but the problem still remains with the eject. The console hadn't been opened before today, as far as i remember it didn't reboot on eject when i 1st turned it on to test and was trying to eject the tray. Have tried an alternate power/eject board but no change, also the console boots with no DVD drive connected also with no change, so i am out of ideas. Has anyone experienced this, or know of a fix ? any help is appreciated.

A while ago I removed the clock capacitor from an Xbox v.1.1. Some days ago came the new capacitor I had ordered and I got to install it. Now, since I'm a complete amateur on the soldering thing, I may have damaged the capacitor or the mb, or the soldering job I did isn't good enough, BUT, how long is the date/time expected to last with a same rating capacitor? I never actually used a new Xbox and I don't know. My first results show that I must have messed up the installation. As far as I can tell I put it in the same place where I removed the old one (there was a leftover capacitor leg in one of the holes) and I used the correct polarity (the negative of the capacitor to the white side of the board's schematic). The capacitor I used is the one in the picture below. Thank you!

I've been able to customize just about everything in XMBC4gamers, I have a softmodded xbox original, and I noticed in the profile select screen, where I can either select manage profiles, or select a profile with my xbox games or emulators. The profile select screen is what boots up for me right away when I turn on the xbox, so the first thing I see is like crummy boxes and a baby blue background. Is there any sort of dark mode? I don't need a crazy skin, I just want to change the colors, is there anyway to change a line of code in a file to change it? Does anyone know how to contact the creators to ask? This would be the icing on the cake for me after setting up a sweet system Thanks!

Hello, I bought an OG v1.1 recently and worked just fine, it came with an Aladdin (I don't know what model, but assume is an old one). The chip doesn't worked so I softmodded and left the chip in its place. After a few weeks playing the xbox simply shutdown in the middle of a Mario Party gameplay and when try to turn it on it tried to boot from the modchip (I think it activates holding the power button for a few seconds). I though it was the CPU overheating, so increase the fan potency (x3), replace the thermal paste and remove the clock capacitor finding little to no corrosion in the board but quite a few components rusted, which I cleaned. When I tried to play again it was even worse, it shutdown more often than before and when I turn it off the thing turn on again trying to boot from the modchip. Then I check for trace corrosion and there was nothing visible, but made the bypass for the 4 traces either, nothing new happened. Maybe the modchip was the problem, right? Well, no. After removing it, the only difference was that it booted normally. Then I remembered that the freaking fan was on x3, and put it back to x1, since then no more unexpected turn offs or ons, it works as good as before. I came here to ask the experts: this makes any sense at all?

Since buying the classic back in 2001 & modding it, then three more in 2004 & modding those also, this week i decided to crack them all open and get them back up together after many, many years of service.... untouched! The upgraded HDD's are getting noisy & the rom trays stopped working way back when, so i would just ftp games across. I have so far stripped & cleaned them thoroughly, desoldered the clock cap in two and fixed the rom draw trays in all consoles. ... however i need to advice on parts! At least one of the rom drives are failing to read discs so i want to replace the laser, as tweaking the potentiometer would be only be a temp fix imo. Where would be the place to go to buy * Replacement lasers * Timer caps ( this is what im considering atm) 5.5v/1F https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283213698254?hash=item41f0da14ce:g:exAAAOSw8-lccKry * Belts, as one of those is looking a little warped ? I found some stuff over at Aliexpress (modchips) but unsure about the rest Giving back>> I found that over time the case screws had become sloppy and would not tighten even though the top screw case standoff's were not cracked. which is the usual case. The internals of them are basically just bored out to much. To fix, i cut the end off a Cable tie (Zip tie) to match the length of the stand off and inserted it. Thats it, all tightened up as should be at the cost and ease of nothing Hope this help someone.

if u have a v1.6 that is connected with a component cable(green,blue and red cables) then u probably know there are a few games that are scrambled if u try to play them in 480p and u have to set the xbox to 480i to unscramble the the picture. here is a simple workaround that i just discovered. 1.power on your xbox and pull the power cord with the system on.(the step may not be needed but it sometimes it) 2. plug your xbox in, hold a controller in one hand and hit the power button with the other, then click in the left and right sticks along with holding down the L and R buttons and hold all 4 buttons until u get to the xbox desktop(make certain the system doesn't have a game in it so it will boot to the desktop). 3. if u did things correctly u should see the screen flicker and go into 480p mode as the desktop is coming up. hit the INFO button on your tv remote to make certain that the display is in 480p mode(and not 480i). 4. make certain the 480p mode is set to YES in the system settings menu and then throw in a game and see if it works. i used fable(non-lost chapters version) and it worked perfectly.

I had a softmodded xbox back in 04/05. A friend had done it for me and i have many finf memoies of it. Buy i had no idea what it was actually capeable of. Now i have an og xbox that i just picked up and am looking to get the most out of as i can through an extended period of time.

Thank you in advance for any and all help provided, So I installed a X3 chip along with the LCD face plate that has USB on my v1.0 Xbox (not windbond/Sharp). I managed to flash bios to the chip but I am unsure of how to understand the bank switches. Bios checker always show unknown bios. I get Evox Bios to load when all 4 switches lights are on. I get X3 Bios to load when switch # 2 lights is on. Every other switch combination my Xbox just powers cycles on/off 3 times with power button flashing before it shuts down. I can't even get to the flash Bios menu anymore. So my questions are.... Question 1: On the face plate are my switches are ON if they light up or are they OFF if no light is on! Is this correct? I don't see the on/off wording on it. Question 2: How do I determine where to flash a Bios? 256k/512k/1MB/2MB? Question 3: The graph description below shows what bank you are on depending on the switch combination, yes? 256k Bank Bank 1: on on on on Bank 2: off on on on Bank 3: on off on on Bank 4: off off on on Bank 5: on on off on Bank 6: off on off on Bank 7: on off off on Bank 8: off off off on 512k Bank Bank 12: on on on off Bank 34: off on on off Bank 56: on off on off Bank 78: off off on off 1MB Bank Bank 1234: on on off off Bank 5678: off on off off 2MB Bank Bank 12345678: off off off off

Hi! I just got an 1.6 xbox with unleash x and the game installed on the hdd but when I launch the game there's no text on the menus and no dialogue, the characters just stay still until skip the cutscene then the game works fine. I've tried downloading a raw iso redump and convert it to xiso and extract the files to the hdd but I get the same issues. does anybody else has this problem?

Hello everyone, Yesterday i was trying to repair my Xbox (wich is a 1.4/1.5, manifactured in 2003), i removed the clock capacitor and everything was fine (i dont care to put the date every time i plug it in) but from point blank it shut down and never came back. when i plug it in it FRAGs and i'm not getting out of this. This is my motherboard : https://imgur.com/a/ZycVKLW i have a modchip installed (not by me, but by someone in the early 2000s), but not a softmod as my xbox read only backups in DVD as far as i know. i made a post on reddit but i had no luck. i tried connecting my HDD to a PC with an adapter and it get recognized by the Devidce Manager but xboxhdm23usb and xplorer360 doesn't seem to detect it and i cant figure out why. i don't care to lose my data, but i just want my xbox back up and running, any suggestion is welcome, but i don't have a EEPROM reader nor a backup and neither a pc with serial port. help me getting this bad boy back to life

So I'm repairing my motherboard after the dvd drive kept ejecting. Unfortunately my mb is a victim of that super capacitor. I removed and cleaned the board however the nearest transistor and resistor to the right corroded off. I managed to solder the transistor back on but I can't find the resistor. Anyone know what the value of that resistor? I tested the traces, so all of that looks good, so I'm guessing that resistor is the trouble maker.

Hi! I have a softmoded xbox with dualboot (when i click the power button it boots UnleashX, but when the DVD drive is opened - xbmc4xbox). So i want xbmc to be my main dashboard. UnleashX is located in C:/Dashboard, while XBMC is in E:/Alt Dashboard (it's here, so i could boot it, if the dvd drive is opened). Should i temporarily install EvoX and then swap the UnleashX and XBMC directories (xbmc will go in C:/Dashboard and UnleashX - in E:/Alt Dashboard) using the build-in file manager or FileZilla? Or there is some other way to do this?