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Got a dead XBOX 1.6 for cheap, it was super clean but had been previously opened so I was a little wary of what I'd find inside. Power supply fuse was missing and the attached pic is the soldering butcher job i found. I'm not familiar with 1.6 PSUs, and couldn't find any quality pics of one online to see what the layout is supposed to be, so i'm wondering if there is any saving this? Don't know what continuity (if any) is supposed to exist between the 3 points there. The bottom round hole is where the fuse is supposed to attach. Worried that the damage/solder spill shorted or created unwanted continuity but can't tell since I don't know how it was originally. The brown lines are what appears to be scratches as if someone tried to scratch away solder to keep the points separated? I dunno. If it is fixable, was wondering what could have caused the fuse to blow that necessitated the repair attempt, as in are there any usual suspects I should look/test for on the Power supply? The rest of the Power supply looks fine. The mobo had some bad caps so i went ahead and replaced the 5 usual ones there but other than that no visible defects on either the mobo or power supply. Any help or thoughts on power supply layout and downstream test/checks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

where to solder ground? To DC return? 5v - pin 1 data - pin 6 ground - pin 24?

I bought all the bits to make an openxenium and I've watched SMT soldering videos to learn techniques using soldering iron and airflow with solder paste, and I watch this video it makes it look so easy and they're zipping through it I've persevered trying to solder it all together a few times but im doing something wrong. I assume the guy in the vid above uses a magnifier like in my setup but its still too small for me, I can barely see the parts, so apart from good eyesight whats his setup off camera? is it likely a microscope/camera and looking at a screen? the next problem is soldering, dragging an iron across the legs makes the solder arches up the IC legs and really difficult to get off again no matter how much flux I use, it took me hours to solder on the IC's "nicely" and ripped a couple of pads trying to get solder off then running traces, absolute pain but all good practice. I ended up using a combination of the tips, the small one for fix ups. I used reflow and solder paste on the caps, resistors and transistors, that worked easy enough and they still showed near enough correct values after, I consider this luck with the way I blasted them to get the solder to melt into place. I had trouble trying that technique with IC's though. The end result doesn't look pretty but I've tested connectivity with the multimeter, found a huge blob of solder under one IC leg shorting to the neighbour, anyway next step programming the firmware see if it actually works I can't understand why soldering SMDs turns out painful for me compared to the video, he zips through it. does everyone go through this with SMT soldering? what do I need to improve? different gear or just more practice?

Hey everyone, I'm new here. I have two OG Xboxes. The first I bought pre-softmodded and which cannot be turned off by the power button, I gather because a trace was eroded; I did take out the clock cap and cleaned it up, however. And the second I softmodded myself as a project because a guy was giving it away for $5. This one doesn't have power/tray eject button problems, however, it did start to make a buzz (the HDD?) or loud fan noise before this happened, but I'm not sure if that's normal for this model. Yesterday it died on me as I was playing a game, for the first time. I took it off power and gave it a rest and then tried again, and it died after a few seconds. Now it doesn't turn on at all. I did some research and given that this one never seemed to have leaked capacitor fluid, and given the caps all over are fine, no swelling, I think it must be the power supply. I thought I would check with you guys first, as I am not very computer savvy and if all I have to do is solder these, I'm not sure I could do it myself tbh, or if it would be cheaper to just hire someone who already has the tools and know how. But I need to know if these are indeed the culprit.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XFT1TPJ/?coliid=I34W0053FX96LE&colid=3BP1APT3T9SB8&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

I plan on installing the MakeMhz HD+ native digital mod in my 1.6. The only thing I'm concerned with is the AV port which has large solder joints. They remind me of the power jack on my laptop that I tried to replace but was unable to with my soldering iron because the solder had a higher melting point than the 450 celcius my iron is supposedly rated for. Should 450C be good for the entire job?

I've 3 xbox with the soldering pads are destroyed there is just the hole...so there is a chance to solder the leg of the caps to another place? Thanks...

Must not be the right points to bridge

Hi all. I'm looking at buying my first soldering kit from ebay and I'm looking for protips from experienced modders What are the necessary things I need with my soldering tool? I'm definitely considering buying a magnifying glass and possibly a stand as well. What is the right type of solder and flux I should want to use with my hardware? I plan to start with making USB adapters and repairing frayed controller cords but I want to gain the ability to do things such as repair dead traces and install chips. I understand the meticulous nature of this activity and that's why I'm asking for some guidance first before I jump in feet first like I normally would. Thanks! - Jake

I have an Xbox 1.0. I have an Xecuter 2.3B Lite+ mod chip (solderless with the pogo pins). It was working fine both with or without the mod chip, however I was keen on changing this to a TSOP as the d0 pogo pin can sometimes move out of position causing 3 boots then FRAG (Christmas Lights). Through a combination of bad skill, a bad iron, and bad solder; I managed to lift all of the solder pads in question (R7D3 and R7R3), plus one of the alternate solder points to R7D3. See the attached images of the board with the lifted pads highlighted. Now without a mod chip, it Christmas Lights. I wasn't expecting this as I thought lifting the solder pads wouldn't actually cause any issues (since they are all at the end of a trace rather than in the middle), just prevent me from performing a TSOP. With the mod chip it still works fine. Also strangely if the mod chip is switched to Disabled, it now boots the mod chip. My understanding is that this indicates there is something so screwed with the TSOP that it's booting from LPC even without d0 being grounded. I'm wondering if there is anything that can be done to repair the TSOP here? I have checked every trace I can in the vicinity with a multimeter and they all seem to have continuity. The R7D2 resistor seems to still be connected just fine. There are a few traces I can't really check as they go under the Nvidia chip. Or am I best to give up on the TSOP and get an Aladdin XT-4032?

Hi all. I've found that at age 40 my near vision started to really degrade. I'm 50 now and wear contacts for reading, but still don't see the small points on a motherboard very well for soldering. Do any of you use a magnifier of sorts when soldering? What do you use? I had bought some jewelers glasses, but the focal length was way off for me.