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Found 16 results

  1. So as you may know i've already designed 2 different xbox mini cases and I'm also working on a full replacement case. This design sits in between these two, it loses the DVD rom and uses a 2.5" HDD/SSD instead of the full sized HDD. It also keeps the original PSU. The lid incorporates ducting to guide air over the heatsinks and also holds the HDD/SSD. Sttill a work in progress but heres a quick look so far:
  2. I thought that all of the original Xbox forums online were all gone/dead. It's great to see that there are still active ones to be found! For my first post I wanted to share one of my first Xbox consoles I modded. Its nothing special, just something designed to be used at events where hundreds gather where I wont be afraid to have any number of random visitors using it. The Xbox itself is simply softmodded and it has been reworked to use a 2.5" SATA HDD. From the 120gb it now houses coinops and a number of modded Halo, Timesplitter and Battlefront games. The idea is a very multiplayer friendly console that is intuitive to use. While it has an XBMC dash, it boots directly into coinops so any number of people can use it without having to ask what to do. Before I upgraded the HDD I took a snap of the original guts while I was working on the console. The HDD is sitting on a spacer above the motherboard to allow for increased airflow, done after the capacitors were rewired and replaced. For fans I am using a Sunon for exhaust and the famous Iceberq 4 for the chipset. The PSU has been wired externally similar to a laptop. While I could have used a picopsu, this defeats the purpose of the console being cheap, easy and worry free with strangers using it. It's nothing fancy. But it looks great, its robust, it doesn't overheat after 12+ hour sessions, I have very little money invested in it and I built it so I wouldn't be afraid of strangers mashing on it.
  3. I've got 2 xboxes, one X3 with the inbuilt menu and one slim no-dvd xbox. I'm getting deja vu that I've had this problem before and managed to solve it. In the X3: - It powers on, I was able to get into the X3 menu by holding the white controller button, no issues. - But I wasn't able to get into my dashboard (i know it works, I used it a few months back - and I can see the game titles / menu titles on the LCD screen) - I remembered the issue was something to do with the region/video mode not matching, so I think I switched the region to PAL 480i initially directly via the X3 menu and managed to get into the dashboard. All my games etc everything is working fine, but only in 480i now. - So I go to enigmah X and switch back to NTSC thinking this would allow me to go back to 720p, no dice, now the X3 menu won't show up (again, I can see it loading correctly via the LCD screen, there's just no video out) - I tried switching to a SCART cable to try "force" PAL mode again, and I can see via OSSC's readout that i'm getting 480i but again there's no video out. What can I do here? I vaguely recall that using a composite cable somehow hardware-forced it back to default 480i and fixed this issue. The slim: - Powers on, loads up, works fine, OSSC says 720p out, can't see anything obviously wrong with it - The picture is blurry. Literally just very blurry. I've tried switching back and forth between 480/720p and it's still extremely blurry, I really can't explain why. Last time I used it the picture was crystal clear. Please help you guys!
  4. So I just slimmed my first xbox. I like it; but it leaves me wondering how slim can I go? I got a couple GPU fan/heatsinks for the GPU/CPU. I plan on doing a custom PSU with a pico atx PSU (that can supply 10A on the 5V rail) Will have to do something with the front buttons (not quite sure yet) Was thinking of cutting the case right down to where the controller ports mount (rather than the strip where the DVD drive would be). Has anyone done anything like this? I know people have put motherboards into custom cases; just wondering if anyone knows of a slimmed xbox beyond the norm that has been done? Thanks
  5. Here is my version of a slim XBOX that I designed. I tried to make the case as small as possible, and still look like an original xbox. I removed the DVD drive and the power supply from the xbox. I pulled my 1.4V xbox out of storage and it was fragging. Got tired of troubleshooting it (the clock capacitor was already removed). So I bought a 1.0 on ebay with a broken dvd drive for $15. The finish on the XBOX is not super, planning to reprint in white filament ( I ran out on my test prints), and only paint the black portions of the case. https://imgur.com/gallery/o58Nul0 I am using a Xbox 360 slim power brick to power the system. The power brick has 6 wires: 2 Yellow Wires (12V), 1 Red Wire (5V), 1 Blue Wire (Power OK, when it receives a signal back it enables the 12V rails), 1 Grey Wire (needs to be grounded to enable the 5V rail), 1 Black Wire (Gnd). The 360 slim brick outputs 5V and enables the 12V rail when it receives 5V back. I wired in a tiny 5V to 3.3V convertor on the red wire on the power brick to the 3.3 standby on my 1.0 motherboard. The Power OK on the motherboard back to the blue wire on the power brick. I then wired in a 12V to 5V 20 Amp Buck/Step Down Convertor and a 12V to 3.3V 6 Amp Buck/Step Down Convertor to the yellow wires on the power brick and connected those to the 5V and 3.3 V spots on the motherboard, and wired 12V directly. Here is a crude drawing of the wiring scheme. I added a 6 pin molex connector to the back of the case and wired it directly to the power connector socket on the bottom of the motherboard. When the power brick is enabled it illuminates the led on the brick orange and the 5V rail is active. This is being dropped down to 3.3V and going to the standby on the motherboard. When the power button is pressed the motherboard sends 3.3V back to the 360 power supply (which is high enough to enable the Power OK on the brick) and enables the 12V rail. The led on the power brick turns green. This sends the 3.3V, 5V, and 12V back to the xbox and it powers on properly. When you turn the xbox off, it removes the 3.3V from the power ok line and the 12V rails are powered off (power brick led turns orange) and the SMC is reset. My xbox powers on just fine without removing any capacitors or anything, but the flubber does stutter occasionally, but always boots up to xbmc4gamers. I installed an openxenium chip in the console. I am running indbios. The system has a 500gb 2.5 inch sata hdd. The power button I put in the case interferes with the daughter board on the 1.0 motherboard, so I unsoldered the connectors for the motherboard from the daughter board and added wires to extend the board. this board is zipped ties to an ogx360 which is soldered to a 360 rf board I salvaged from a 360 console. I do not have any original controller ports in the system as I will only use the wireless 360 controllers. These board just sit in the front of the case for now. At some point I want to develop some sort of mount for these so they are not just loose in the xbox. I designed the mount for the hard drive to use some of the motherboard screw holes to mount it to the case. The fitment for the ide-to-sata board is very tight so I removed the sata connectors from the board, and soldered on a female sata connector I salvaged from a dead 360 console. I cut the ide ribbon to about 6 inches and I am using a 6" sata cable to run to the hard drive. The ide-to-sata board is powered from the dvd drive connector. I cut a molex to sata power cable and soldered it to the ide-to-sata board where the dvd connector attaches. This allows me to put the ide board on the side of the case besides the hard drive. The case is too small to use a stock case fan, so I am using the stock fan on the gpu, a 50mm fan on the cpu, and a 50mm fan in the rear of the case. I designed the case to have ports like the stock case on the side and added them to the top of the case as well. I have not seen temps go above 50C yet. I am using Noiseblocker BlackSilentFan XS-2 for the 50mm fans. The final mod I made was to remove the stock video connector and add an internal wii2hdmi board. For future revisions I am planning the following: an attiny board to allow the 360rf board to display the controller leds and run the sync functions. I will add these leds in the case similar to how the 360 displays them. Add a sync and eject button below the power button so I can sync the controllers and get into the openxenium menu if needed. Find a better connector for 6 wires for the power as the current connector is large and doesn't mount to the case very well. (feel free to post suggestions).
  6. What the title says. I've flashed my smart xx with X2 5032 and tried manipulating both the text file in the e-petition as well as as using X2 config maker to confirm that the DVD check is removed. Unfortunately it just refuses to boot I know that the config is working because the wireframe flubber shows up but it will just sit endlessly loading after that. It boots correctly with a drive plugged in. Any help?
  7. I have an xbox slim without a dvd drive. The 40 GB hard drive starts up without a problem. Unfortunately 320 gb disk, frozen logo. I have formatted the disk several times and unfortunately the same continues. If the dvd drive is plugged in, the xbox will boot without problem. Any suggestions?
  8. Any of you consider it? I have a few Xboxes to play with and I'm really thinking of making one.
  9. coliver80

    Og Slim

    So I tried my hand at making a slim. Case has been cut down. Shield inside has had all its sides removed. OEM fan has been trimmed to fit. Interior trays have been trimmed to fit. Front controller ports shaved. Factory power button is now sync button for internal ogx360. Factory eject button is now power button with xbox one slim button jewel. full sized 1tb hard drive installed where dvd drive use to be and ogx360 and receiver mounted where hard drive use to be. LEDs replaced with white leds. pic looks like something is wrong with right of front panel.. not the case.. cant see anything in person. Thinking of doing the top jewel like a carbon gray.. haven't done it yet.. not solid on the idea yet. Not perfect but I like it.. looks clean.
  10. Updated 4/25/17 Slim Xbox Original Laptop Build Photos are attached below. Hey everyone this is a log for my very own Ultra 5cm Slim Xbox Original Laptop Build. The goal for this build is to keep the Xbox originals originality by using the Xbox original case and to slim it down into an Xbox original laptop with wicked accessories. The Xbox will be cut down to just above the controller ports. The sides of the lid and the back corners of the lid will be cut off, sanded and reattached to the bottom of the case. The Xbox will then have a removable top plastic flat cover and or palm rest added to the case to replace the original lid. The original lid will no longer have sides or back corners on it, the lid will be cut to fit a Laptop LCD screen which will be powered on through the Xbox's Molex cable by using a shortened Y splitter cable. This cable will turn the Xbox's hard drive on and the Xbox's LCD screen on. The Molex cable Y splitter, splits the Amps the new Xbox pico psu outputs while the voltage remains the same. The LCD screen will either be a 15.6 inch laptop screen or a slightly smaller screen around 14 inches and will have a frame on the front of it and a cover on the back of the lcd. Two Xbox jewels will be used at the moment on this Laptop build. One jewel will be used and attached either in the center and or bottom right of the Xbox's LCD screen back cover. Another jewel will be cut into a rectangle around the Xbox logo and will be flipped over to the Xbox indentation logo side and displayed on the front of the console. There will be two to three models of the Xbox Ultra Slim Laptop at the moment, one will include two wireless controller inbuilt and will be the first model, and will be build into the Xbox Original case. The second model and third model details are yet to be released. Accessories included The accessories which are included are: The Xbox disc drive, modified into an external sata drive which can be plugged into an Xbox when its off and used easily for ripping games and playing disc games. The Xbox has to be turned off while plugging the drive into the new sata ports on the side of the Xbox and turned off while unplugging the drive. An Xbox original wireless handheld portable home device with a controller inbuilt into it. This is similar to a wii u like controller. The idea is to be able to walk around the house and be able to play Xbox as you go. These will be available for sale and the transmitter and receivers have already been tested and do transmit the video signal to screens away from the Xbox. The Xbox original will be powered by a 12volt DC 250watt pico psu, the psu is capable of outputting 20 - 20.83 amps. Whats inside the Xbox The Motherboard. The controller ports, LED modified. The 12 volt DC 250w Pico psu. A heat sink with an 80mm fan to cover the CPU A laptop IDE to sata adapter connected to the hard drive, the laptop hard drive will be positioned over the av and lan ports at the back of the console, between the ide slot and the gpu heatsink. A modified 80 wire ide cable will be used to keep the build tidy. Two Xcm wireless controller transmitters, which can be turned on and off by the use of switches on each transmitter. There will be four controllers used for this and only two can work at one time. Two controllers will be made into Wireless Xbox Portable Devices. Xbox will still be fully capable of handling wired and other plug in wireless controllers by turning off the transmitters inside the Ultra slim Xbox by the use of switches on the right hand side of the Xbox's. The Xbox will have the capacitors replaced to increase the amount of size available inside of the Xbox, by installing aluminium electrolytic capacitors which are smaller. The Xbox will contain one battery. A LCD driver board to connect the LCD to the Xbox's video signal. Two speakers connected to the driver board, receiving the audio signal from the Xbox's motherboard. An 80 wire ide cable. A Molex Y Splitter cable. A wireless xbox original internet receiver. An Ide to sata adapter on the left hand side of the Xbox positioned next to the ide port for the Xboxs external disc drive and other external accessories. LED Strips A custom assembled ATX cable. A 5volt sb to 3.3 volt standby converter made by me A 5volt sb to 3.3 volt standby converter final made by and purchased from N64 Freak. A 1tb - 2tb laptop drive. In total 2x 1tb - 2tb laptop hard drives drives, In the bigger laptop model, through the use of a hard drive selector and possibly modified original disc drive. Switches to allow for the turning on and off of the wireless Xbox controller transmitters and for the swi An additional fan port GPU heatsink Additional fans Power button Eject button Plastic to isolate the laptop hard drive and ide to sata adapter from the motherboard. Four Xbox Screws for the controller ports Six Screws to replace the Xbox original case mount screws. To hold the top casing with the bottom casing. HDMI Composite converter board, purchased from N64 Freak. Slide in DVD drive, possibly in this model or another model, although will only play burnt games and dvds and not Xbox Original games at this stage. Eight 1500uf 6.3 volt capacitors to replace the original 1500uf capacitors and the 3300uf 6.3 volt capacitors. At this stage possibly a new soldered on board ATX right angle plug for the Xbox original. At this stage possibly a new soldered on board ATX right angle plug for the Pico Power Supply. Xbox hard drive isolation and Xbox hard drive ide to sata adapter isolation. Xbox power supply isolation. Xbox heatsink isolation support. 15.6 inch or 14inch laptop screen with matching driver board. Additional 64mbs of ram, to make the Xbox have a complete 128mbs of ram. Xbox duo x chip or aladdin chip. Multiple USB ports, to allow for mouse and for inbuilt directly wired keyboard functionality for use on the Xbox Originals XBMC dashboard and on the Xbox original avaliable operating systems, including at the moment Linu , Windows 98, and Windows CE. The Xbox External Disc Drive Power button will be cut off from the eject board/power on board and wired directly back to the eject board while the eject board is mounted else where in the case. The IDE port will have an IDE to sata connector directly wired to it for the external disc drives port to best fit in the Xbox Ultra Slim Laptop, while a single double ide cable will be used to go from the ide port directly to the laptop hard drive. The disc drive will be made an external accessory by using its own IDE female to sata adapter plugged which will be plugged into the back of disc drive and use a sata cable to connect to the sata ports on the side of the Xbox Ultra Slim Laptop. An Xbox dvd drive power cable extension and port will be added as follows, Male to Female connector, which then goes from the Female connector to the Xbox left hand side mounted Male connector. The male connector which will be added to the side will allow for the power, eject in, eject out, to be connected to the drive. To avoid the Xbox throwing an Error from the drive not being connected in general, the Xbox will be chipped or tsop flashed. If the sata doesn't work due to the Xbox originals DVD drive adapter not having a slave pinner, an ide cable will be used instead. The Wireless Controller Device The Wireless controller device will include a video transmitter connected into the Xbox originals av port which will be powered by the Xbox's power new pico power supply or battery power included within the Ultra Slim Xbox Original Laptop Build. The transmitter is capable of transmitting the Xbox's video signal to another LCD screen when the video receiver is plugged into the composite av video port if that LCD screen. The video receiver will be powered by battery and will be connected to an LCD screen. The LCD screen will have a wireless controller build around the screen, inside of a custom case, which will likely be build out of an Xbox original case, to keep the Xbox's original case style. The back of the device will have an Xbox Original Jewel mounted. The wireless controllers being used are XXX XCM Wireless controllers these controllers are power by battery. The power required to use the controllers, an LCD screen, blue tooth speakers and the video receiver will be combined within the handheld device and the batteries will be rechargeable. The Project Log 1 Here's the ultra slim laptop at the moment. I have cut the power and eject button in half and will jump the power to the eject board. The eject button will be mounted on the front of the Xbox. The power button will stay in its originally place. The eject half circle hole where the eject button used to go will be fitted with leds for an on light and standby light. The original led lights for the Xbox errors will be present still. The power supply is a 12volt, 250 watt power supply, that will be turned on by battery. The power supply is almost set up at this time, although the wiring is not yet finished at this time. The Xbox is working at this stage with the new installed capacitors.
  11. My current project is this slim xbox. -No DVD 128Mb Ram Upgrade -2Tb Hybrid SSD Drive -Low Profile Laptop CPU cooler -Xbox A/V output removed internal HDMI out added -Custom Bios -Integrated wireless controller support -Arduino Controlled LED lit Jewel and ports -Power supply upgrade (now runs on a 12v adapter)
  12. I am considering building an og xbox slim through the usual method of cutting out the disk drive area. has anyone experienced heating issues with their slim models? Please let me know.
  13. Kik5u

    Black and Slim

    My first attempt to make slim model. Still need to find shorter bolts for the top cover, maybe I just trim them down?
  14. I'm starting a slim xbox project in my spare time. Updates may be infrequent. The idea is hopefully to keep the entire box under 50mm thickness. I want to try and cram in a 2TB 2.5" HDD with SATA adaptor, a picoPSU, and Ryzee's wireless 360 controller board. The motherboard is a 1.0 that I've TSOP flashed and upgraded with 128MB RAM. It's going to be a very tight squeeze for sure. I've modeled a case for it that needs to be 3D printed--though the expense from Shapeways is a bit much for me right now, and it's too big for the local printers! The edge of the case will be sanded and wrapped with a brushed metallic vinyl. The top acrylic will be attached using press-in brass inserts and machine screws. The bottom of the case will be a frosted LED diffusing acrylic. Hopefully, I will have room to put some LEDs underneath for a nice soft glow. Today I started by attaching the cooling solution. I'm using a Dynatron A48G that I've drilled and tapped so I can attach it from the bottom. Two nylon washers were used to ensure proper mounting pressure without bending the motherboard PCB. I was planning on using a 120mm slim fan (only 15mm thick!) as my active cooling, but if I'm low on space and can't fit something I may have to use a 92mm instead. Right now with the 120mm fan it runs at 46c CPU, 40c M/B which is sufficient.
  15. Xbox Slim Ghost White This is one of my projects that I finished in 2018. -vga mod -ssd Samsung 500GB - slot for ps2 joypad -128MB Ram -1 GHz processor -lcd screen with smartxx chip -wifi mod
  16. Now i have started on my first slim XboX. It is an 1.1 xbox i bought a while a go, it has a Xcuter2 Lite chip it, so my first working chipped xbox. Thought this was i good candidate for an slim, since i can run it without the DVD PCB. I rigged the "dremel" and got ready to cut (after reading a couple of guides) But the switch broke when I tried to start it..... Had to fix it: Found the bigger toy for cutting the shield Test fitting while cutting: I mounted a 60mm fan to the shield. And test fitted it in the bottom And finally fitted the newly cut down dvd caddy with HDD (not the one i am using yet). Need to get a molex extender, since it wont reach as it is. I am pretty happy with my first slim xbox. It is not finished yet, i am thinking of tinting the lid. Not decided what style jewel to go for yet, or if I should mount the shield again or not. Maybe leave as is, or black out the interior. Maybe even som led mods? But it seems like the hardes part of the mod went pretty well, I'll let you decide. I also have to make or source some bolts to use, and not decided if tinting it black, red or red with black on top...... Sent fra min NX551J via Tapatalk

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