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hi. I get an old XBOX one. when I turn it on, I hear the start up sound but there is no picture on the TV. how can I check if it is a software issue or hardware issue? important thing, hard drive not connected, because I don't have the cable for SATA. i don't know if the xbox should to turn on without HDD.

When using/playing the MS dashboard, Halo CE, or JSRF, there's intermittent signal loss, or at least the behaviour of the TV is if the signal is lost (warning pops up). The audio will continue to work though (if plugged in through the reciever). I've got a video of this happening: Youtube video of signal loss. Setups I've tried: Xbox -> Chimeric -> Reciever -> TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Cheap component cable + cheap ADC with HDMI output -> Reciever -> TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Chimeric -> directly to TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Cheap component cable + cheap ADC with HDMI output -> directly to TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Capture card -> Laptop (no issue) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Cheap projector (no issue) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Capture card (Elgato HD60 S) -> Laptop (no issue) & passthrough to TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Chimeric -> Capture card (Elgato HD60 S) -> Laptop (no issue) & passthrough to reciever and then TV (issue happens) Xbox -> Composite -> Cheap projector (no issue) Xbox details: PAL (Au) Rev 1.0 Delta DPSN-96AP-1 Aladdin XT with IND Unleash X Fully recapped PSU (didn't fix the issue) Replaced the large motherboard capacitors and a couple of the small ones next to the video DAC (didn't fix the issue) Unused Thompson DVD drive (un/plugged doesn't matter) WD 1TB Blue connected through an IDE-SATA (ofc) and 80 wire IDE cable. Molex -> SATA power is on the SATA-IDE card. Still had the same issue with the original WD HDD EEPROM set to NTSC Video output with 480p, and 720p enabled (480i seems to be issue free when using the Chimeric adaptor) Audio output with surround, DD, and DTS enabled No visible signs of trace rot, no signs of capcitors leaking, all removed capacitors looked to be in good condition and tested well. TV is a Sony KD-65X9000F (Au version of X90F) TV settings I've tried (in case auto detection is freaking out or something): Picture mode - Game Auto picture mode - Off Black adjust - Off Advanced contrast enhancer - Off Auto widescreen - Off Auto over/underscan - Off HDR - Off HDMI video range - Tried limited and full Colour space - Tried auto and sRGB "Motionflow" (not exactly, but effectively motion interpolation) - Off "Reality creation" (upscaling) - Off Smooth gradation - Off "Live colour" (Colour processing incl. fake HDR) - Off I've heard Deep Colour (introduced in HDMI 1.3) has caused issues in the past, but I can't find an option to turn it off anywhere, not even in the developer options. Reciever is Onkyo TX-SR494. Have tried multiple known good HDMI cables that can definitely carry 2.0 bandwidth. The Component -> HDMI DAC has an external power supply. This is it: https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B07JYHQRDJ I'm somewhat convinced that either the signal from the Xbox is borked, don't know if it's the PSU drooping, there's electrical noise, some thermal protection very briefly kicks in, or the motherboard capacitors I haven't replaced yet. I don't have an oscilloscope nor a way to monitor the HDMI signal to be able to further troubleshoot what exactly is going wrong. I'm after any more potential troubleshooting ideas, or knowledge.

Hi folks, first time listener, first time caller. I recently inherited a 1.1 console and am going through the motions of getting it rounded out and looking pretty. I went ahead and did the Rocky softmod, and today I successfully converted it over to a 2TB 2.5" WD drive. No issues. I have the MakeMHZ XboxHD+ kit coming tomorrow along with modchip, so I figured I'd go ahead and get this 128MB upgrade knocked out. I'm not a novice solder head by any means, I do a lot of work with my station on a fairly regular basis. I installed all four RAM chips and went to test, got the crappy flashing lights and forced a boot into dash anyway. 2 of the RAM chips didn't pass. No big deal, powered the console off and went back to work. Once I was satisfied with my handiwork (reflowing, checking for bridging, etc) I put everything back together. Now I get no flubber startup, no audio, nothing. The light on the XBOX is solid green and shows no errors. I can't FTP into the XBOX either. Drive eject works fine, the NIC light is flashing in the back when cabled. I've tried the llamma coma tech as well (both sides) and that doesn't seem to force boot the system either. What should I do here?

I have had a duox2 Hyundai edition installed forever ago in a Xbox 1.6 and pulled out the old fella for some burnout revenge to my dismay and four year old son’s disappointment I am receiving no signal when powered on .chip is flashing red ,eject button solid green however cannot open disk draw ,second bank frags red and green on eject button. normal Xbox works fine and appears to have all saved files from burnt/installed games. I am currently checking all connections to mod chip. Does anyone know if this is a bios issue , chip issue or HDD issue . If this is a bios issue does installing a new bios require formatting the drive and same question if I replace mod chip to a modern chip now available as I can’t find any duox2’s for sale.

So I found my old Original Xbox from a while ago and decided to turn it on to see what games I had and what was on the system. When I turned on the console using the power button the screen was black (no signal). But, when I pressed the disk eject button it started up with the boot screen playing but sent me to the error screen with the code 05. The console has a Duo x2 Fujitsu mod chip and from what I remember the console used EvolutionX as the dashboard. The mod chip also flashes red when I turn on the console (not sure if this is bad or not)? I didn't make any changes to the console so I'm confused as to what happened to it? Does anyone know what the problem is?

Hi, Today a colleague and I replaced the DVD drive in my Xbox 1.6 with a cross-flashed GDR 8163B. Unfortunately we were a bit careless with the connections on the bottom of the DVD controller board and ripped off the solder pad for READY. The drive works to an extent regardless, I can launch games when they're inserted at boot and Video DVDs also work in XBMC. The drive status in EvoX dash is constantly "Ejecting" as it seems. Now, the only thing that bugs me is that the Xbox's LED is constantly blinking (alternating orange/red). It only stops blinking while the tray is out. It's probably confused because the pin is not connected and it thinks the drive is getting ready all the time. Am I right to assume that the blinking is done entirely in hardware? I couldn't find any LED setting code related to it in the kernel. Can somebody tell me what kind of signal the Xbox motherboard is expecting for the ready pin? Can I solder it to ground to stop the blinking but keep things working?

I've got 2 XBOX's and one works perfectly and that's the one with a Xenium Ice chip in it, the other has an Aladdin chip I think, I can't recall as it was done about 15 years ago The chip requires that you hold down the power button for about 2 seconds to turn the mod chip on and boot the Xbox to UnleashX. If you don't hold the power button down the screen just goes to no signal and the Xbox doesn't work, it powers on obviously just no signal. If you do hold it down and enable the mod chip the Xbox boots up fine and works well, the only problem is if you do the two trigger / 2 button reboot trick with the M8 bios it does start the reboot process but just goes to a no signal screen. If I go to the option in UnleashX to boot to MSDash it just goes to this same black no signal screen. I tried reinstalling MSDash in case it was a problem with the dashboard, but that made no difference. Does anyone know a solution to this? it's not a big deal but I'd like to resolve it if possible. Thanks in advance.

Hi, i have xbox 1.0 and i have a problem with it. When I turn on, I do not have a signal video and audio to the green LED, it blinks 3 times, then it lights constantly. When I connect the alladdin, the video is sometimes broken, the green LED lights up in the thread. (how was the work, normal work) However, it was from sound, it does not give a video and so every now and then (picture as it is white) The cable component is working. What is your problem? Any ideas please.

So yesterday i decided to flash a new bios to my V1.1 Xbox Modchip Super Aladdin with the SST49LF020 to remove de DVD drive check and used EVtool to edit a EvoX M8+ 256K Bios, but me being stupid i also decided to change the EvoX logo to be sure the Bios was indeed changed, big mistake. The flashing completed, the Xbox turned off and now when i press for 1 second to activate the chip i get no signal from the TV, no animation, no sound nothing. I even put Hexen 2018 but nothing, it's dead. But it boot to the stock dashboard with a quick press. I've been searching for hours, but still have some questions: 1) If i buy one of those Aladdin XT PLUS2 XT+4032 that come with a SST49LF020A can i just replace that with mine and it will work? I saw that it comes pre-flashed with a EvoX M8 bios? 2) Do you know were to buy just the SST49LF020 with the Bios? I feel very sad about this, because i treasure my consoles and this was my main and first Original Xbox and would like to restore it.