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Got a dead XBOX 1.6 for cheap, it was super clean but had been previously opened so I was a little wary of what I'd find inside. Power supply fuse was missing and the attached pic is the soldering butcher job i found. I'm not familiar with 1.6 PSUs, and couldn't find any quality pics of one online to see what the layout is supposed to be, so i'm wondering if there is any saving this? Don't know what continuity (if any) is supposed to exist between the 3 points there. The bottom round hole is where the fuse is supposed to attach. Worried that the damage/solder spill shorted or created unwanted continuity but can't tell since I don't know how it was originally. The brown lines are what appears to be scratches as if someone tried to scratch away solder to keep the points separated? I dunno. If it is fixable, was wondering what could have caused the fuse to blow that necessitated the repair attempt, as in are there any usual suspects I should look/test for on the Power supply? The rest of the Power supply looks fine. The mobo had some bad caps so i went ahead and replaced the 5 usual ones there but other than that no visible defects on either the mobo or power supply. Any help or thoughts on power supply layout and downstream test/checks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Hi, I'm trying to repair my xbox v1.6 with a Delta 220v PSU because it doesn't power on at all(even the fan isn't spinning). Backstory: the xbox stopped working all of a sudden(it worked just the day before even with the leaked/bulging caps), so thinking that maybe the power and eject buttons got broken, I tried to turn it on by shorting the SW1 Eject or SW2 Power(I can't remember which) to GND according to this diagram of the front panel connector. I don't think this was a good idea since the xbox didn't turn on and I heard a small spark but I'm not totally sure. Now from the PSU, not plugged into the motherboard(so in stand-by I guess), I get a ~5v reading from the orange wires but 0.1v from the blue wire(which should be 3.3v even on stand-by according to this table) and ~0 volts from the other 3.3v and 12v rail as it should be. Moving on to the motherboard, after removing all the bad capacitors, I still get a short between the 5v rail and ground(measuring the pins of psu connector on the motherboard). I also tried measuring the caps under the CPU(starting from C2P1 to C2P17) and they're all shorted to ground. The caps C2E2 and C1E1 too. Also, measuring the VRM(?) FAN5059M I'm getting a short on the pins(apart from GND) 2_SW, 6_VID2, 8_VID0, 20_VFP. All this leds me to believe that the CPU is fried but I can't really wrap my head around how I could have done that, is there something I'm missing/misunderstanding? Image 1 mobo Image 2 mobo Image 3 cpu caps

Hello, I have been trying to diagnose a no video scenario with one of my xbox that I originally thought was being caused strictly by a bad bios flash. I original posted some questions about it in flashing and bios forums, troubleshooting has lead me to believe that my main problem is now related to eeprom issue so I figured post should be here, as it is no longer relevant to those forums if that is incorrect and I should of just continued posting in one of those previous thread I apologize... This xbox originally had a dead hard drive so I tried to read the eeprom with ch341a and a test clip. Being 1.0 xbox there was not much room to fit the test clip and after many failed attempts I gave up with the clip. At this point I unsoldered the eeprom and read it directly on the reader, I obtained good read with no issues then resoldered the eeprom. I continued to flash the tsop with xblast and upgrade the ram to 128mb. ram test passed with no issues after many heat cycles. I proceeded to flash a new bios to the tsop, except I bumped the power at the end of the procedure got an incomplete flash with frag. I was able to test some of the other sections of the tsop with recommended 3 wire trick and the xbox would boot but with flashing green and no video. I tried bypassing tsop with Aladdin but again no video and flashing green. Thinking I corrupted the eeprom I desoldered the eeprom and verified contents match the backup, and resoldered the eprom. The last modchip I tried was xblast modded Aladdin and to my surprise the xbox boots with video like normal, I believe this bios is working because it is Cromwell/Gentoox based and is ignoring the eeprom. In looking at the eeprom, I can read and write the chip no problem off board but I cannot read/write it in circuit through lpc header.... when I hook up programmer through lpc I get a red light on the programmer indicating incorrect pin or short. I now think I must of shorted something out when fighting with the test clip originally. Anyone have any idea on what I might of fried or what area I should start looking? is there any motherboard schematics floating around? I'm not ready to banish this poor box to the parts bin yet if I can help it lol. again thank to all that have helped me.

Long story short While modifying my Xbox, I accidentally shorted out the 5 volt rail. Now the thing doesn't turn on. I'm wondering what exactly I killed on the power supply. I checked the fuse near the 120Vinput and it appears to have continuity. I notice basically right next to the wires for 5v there appears to be a regulator or a mosfet. Perhaps it just needs a new mosfet? The short only occurred for less than a second. Personally I find it kindof rediculous how it killed it so quickly but nonetheless. Needs fixing now. Also on another note. I know this is a long shot, but could the power supply from an Xbox Revision 1.0 be rigged into a newer box. I see that the connector for the old Xbox is only 12 pin and the newer one is a 20 pin ATX. What crossed their minds to change over to the ATX power supply?