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About Me

Found 9 results

  1. thanks to redherring32 we are now able to safely remove the clock cap in a 1.6 rev xbox. research and testing done by redherring32
  2. As the tittle states I'm looking for some advice on removing the internal molding marks on a crystal case, the rf shield was rusted tf so it was removed (and might try removing the posts that held it in too) Trying to do a dvt-3 devkit inspired build and wanting it looking primo. Cheers folks, Kalps
  3. So I thought I'd try out life without a DVD drive but I've run into some issues after removing it, attaching just the mainboard to power/IDE, and flashing a noDVD M8+ BIOS patched for XboxHD+ and 128MB RAM. My symptoms: - When I try to start up CoinOPS Ninja, it just hangs on a black screen - When I press the controller buttons to reset the console, it enters a boot loop, eject flashes green and shows Xbox logo then black screen over and over again. Is the soft reset shortcut somehow tied to eject and the DVD drive? Xbox games themselves and other emulators seem to be launching fine btw.
  4. OK, I had a lot of trouble getting the AV port out of my v1.6 XBox. The solder pump I was using removed the traces on the underside of the board. Traces on the top are fine so I am able to tap the SPDIF and 5V. However, on the bottom, I tried using bodge wires soldered directly to the resistors going to pins 11, 12 and 13. My work so far has unfortunately been messy at best and I am getting flashing orange when starting the XBox so I am pretty sure it is my bodge work that is the issue. Does anyone know if there is a better way to short pins 11/12 and 13/14 elsewhere if my AV port through holes are toast? Reference picture of pins below... http://i.imgur.com/pyjq4y6.jpg BTW, the specific behavior I am seeing is I get a green light on the Xbox initially. The HD+ blue light blinks slowly (about every 3 seconds on 3 seconds off). After 10 or so seconds the Xbox flashes orange and needs to be unplugged to turn off. I did check the ribbon cable installation a couple of times. I checked for bridged connections. I also checked that I got continuity all the way from the ribbon far edge to the opposite side of the resistor that the trace was soldered to. So I believe the cable is soldered correctly (I'm sure, however, I could be proven wrong). I also tried checking continuity from by bodges to the other side of each resistor and had mixed results. I checked my soldering and it appears to be good. Not sure if maybe I fried the resistors if that is possible. Maybe I need to jump across the resistor (not sure if they do anything when pins 11/12 and 13/14 are bridged).
  5. I plan on installing the MakeMhz HD+ native digital mod in my 1.6. The only thing I'm concerned with is the AV port which has large solder joints. They remind me of the power jack on my laptop that I tried to replace but was unable to with my soldering iron because the solder had a higher melting point than the 450 celcius my iron is supposedly rated for. Should 450C be good for the entire job?
  6. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1N4Oes8MeRA Very good and useful video about how to remove the Xbox's disc tray bezel/faceplate but at between 30 - 45 secs the guys says: "........................... you're going to think you've broken it but you didn't" or words to that affect, repeated several times. Well..............................................guess what: I tried this with the spare dead disk drive and thought I'd broken it.............................and I had. The shower of black plastic pieces was a good indication. What broke were both the retaining channels each end which slide down over the edge of the tray front not the locking tabs as you might think. I believe I understand what went wrong; when I pulled the tabs clear of the bottom edge of the tray I continued twisting the bezel just that little bit too much. What you should do is when the tabs are just clear of the bottom of the tray stop pulling out/twisting up the bezel any more and change to pushing it straight upwards to slide it off the tray. Once the tabs are clear of the bottom edge of the tray and you start to push up they are actually lodged against the flat tray front surface behind the bezel and from that point all you're doing is sliding it up and off. No more twisting or pulling out is necessary. The little crack you may here is, or should just be, the bezel pinging back into shape as it is under tension. If that is accompanied by a small shower of plastic then you've done it wrong. In short: you do need a bit of firm physical persuasion initially but after that be gentle. Bezels do break.
  7. Hi all, I have recently got into the modding scene and after some successful Wii mods have decided to turn my hand at the OG Xbox. I had one of these when I was a kid with a chip on it (don't know to much info as was a kid). I recently picked up 2nd hand Crystal OG Xbox's. One of them already has been softmodded and the other is a virgin, never had the lid popped. I am aware that the clock capacitor needs removing off of all motherboards rev. 1.1-.1.5 however, I have read places that you can cause the system to boot loop if not done correctly. My question is, I have a virgin, a softmod and a chip. Which of these is is safe to remove the capacitor from without getting into a bootloop? I am also finding the most up to date software and guides/information hard to find as there is information floating around from over 10years ago so hoping someone can push me in the right direction with dashboards and other ""basic info" on the latests and most supported software that would be a god send. Many thanks
  8. Dear All, I want to unplug or remove the DVD from my XBOX What is the most convenient way to do this, do you remove the DVD player from the box leaving a tray open for better air flow and afterwards how do you cover the opening, or just unplug the IDE + Power cable and leave the DVD on the box. As the combination of FTP and larger HDD, the DVD Player gets completely obsoleted. Thanks
  9. I’m new to the modding scene, and I’m not an electronics wizard or software genius. I have a 1.1 and I keep seeing that I should absolutely move the clock capacitor. I have looked into why, and I guess it has a tendency to leak all over the MB? Can somebody clarify this for me? (This is the best spot I thought to post this due to motherboard alteration)

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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