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heya, i recently bought a commissioned xbox from the US, and it's a 1.0 with a dual capacitor PSU. feels a bit sketchy to just use a 220v-to-110v stepdown transformer for the Xbox, so what can be done to mod it into a 220v PSU? saw from another forum post that apparently 220v "worked just fine" on it, but i'm skeptical and don't want to immediately blow up something I spent money on

Hey all! I have a 1.0 that spools up to boot for about 2 seconds and then shuts down. Does that twice and then I can get it to stay powered with a FRAG 50/50 but never has any detectable video output. Not hard modded. I pulled the five Caps by the CPU and they all checked within limits. Clock cap is removed and there is not trace rot. Power supply works normal with other 1.0 boards. Any ideas? Thanks in advance

If anyone has a non-working PSU they want to sell, Ill buy.

hey fellas. something awful happened. my sata adapter fell on my PSU and sparks flew. I don't know where to start troubleshooting. The Xbox doesn't turn on anymore. I cannot tell if the damage stopped at the PSU or went into the console. The copper ring step down transformer looks fried.

From finland, with xbox original with bad psu.

Anybody have a 120V PSU out of an Xbox v1.6 they wouldn’t mind parting with? The Delta variant PN is 96DP. Not sure what the other ones are. Thanks!

Hi guys, first time posting here. So, I live in Brazil and the OG Xbox never got sold here. Recently bought one with a defective 110V PSU to attempt to repair and have currently reached a dead end trying to solve it. What I currently have is the following: ===PSU's PRIMARY SIDE=== - First filter cap (the really big one near) has a reading of approx. 170V. - When powering off, the voltage drains off filter cap normally. ===SECONDARY SIDE=== - No bulging caps, haven't recapped. Shorted VSTB to POW-ON to test and got the following: - 3.27V on VSTB to POW-ON, which I understand is what is needed. - 3.16V on VSTB to VS, which I think is low. - 5.3 on DNA1002D's pin 1, which I'm not sure is supposed to be that high. - 13.5V on the HV end of the optocouplers and little to nothing on the other end, which I think is wrong. - nothing on the pins for 5V nor 12V when shorting VSTB to POW-ON My best bet is the voltage is off on the secondary part of the PSU, maybe because of a faulty transistor or resistor (haven't found the fault) and POW-OK isn't triggering the feedback circuit, but I'm not entirely sure. I'm an amateur at best and know I shouldn't be attempting to repair a PSU with little knowledge, but am taking every precaution possible. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!

Got a dead XBOX 1.6 for cheap, it was super clean but had been previously opened so I was a little wary of what I'd find inside. Power supply fuse was missing and the attached pic is the soldering butcher job i found. I'm not familiar with 1.6 PSUs, and couldn't find any quality pics of one online to see what the layout is supposed to be, so i'm wondering if there is any saving this? Don't know what continuity (if any) is supposed to exist between the 3 points there. The bottom round hole is where the fuse is supposed to attach. Worried that the damage/solder spill shorted or created unwanted continuity but can't tell since I don't know how it was originally. The brown lines are what appears to be scratches as if someone tried to scratch away solder to keep the points separated? I dunno. If it is fixable, was wondering what could have caused the fuse to blow that necessitated the repair attempt, as in are there any usual suspects I should look/test for on the Power supply? The rest of the Power supply looks fine. The mobo had some bad caps so i went ahead and replaced the 5 usual ones there but other than that no visible defects on either the mobo or power supply. Any help or thoughts on power supply layout and downstream test/checks would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Anyone know what resistor R6 is? I tried googling it. The one in my psu is cooked a little and the color bands aren't readable, it came that way. It has not been a problem but I think I'll get a replacement while I'm buying other things just cuz.

My in January repaired 1.4 Xbox console is dead today, it didn't turn on Both the power and eject button does nothing. It played fine a week ago. I opened it up, disconnected the PSU from the mainboard and used a multimeter to check the voltage between the grey pin and ground according to the diagram below (Delta PSU). It only jumps to 0,05-0,1v when it's connected to a power outlet. It gives no 3,3v. Does it mean the PSU is dead and not easily fixable?

I have a v1.4 that doesn't seem to be getting power at all, zero response from power/eject so I've tried a bunch of stuff: - Replaced 3x 3300uF 6.3V, 3x 1500uF 6.3V, and 2x 3300uF 10V caps, all the big ones - Checked continuity on those 4 lines that usually get rotted, 3 were good, rebuilt 1 and confirmed continuity with the top of the board - Reflowed the 20 pin ATX header - Tested with 2 known good PSUs - Tested with 2 known good front panel PCBs I haven't seen this behavior (or lack of) before and had it not be bad caps, but if there's something to be tried short of an entire recap, I'm unaware of what that would be. Anyone have any ideas?

I have a Tuscany PSU that is a 1.6 version and I wanted to know can this be tested with out the xbox? The 5VSTB (reds) on the 20 pin connector is measuring 3.9V. Is this normal if not connected to xbox?

I have this xbox PSU TUSCANY model but with missing components ,and i wanna repair it Can anyone help me with missing components reference. thnx.

When I was looking for a extra gamepad, I came across a "duke" gamepad including a whole Xbox for 10 bucks, I couldn't resist not taking it Everything works, but inside the Xbox it looks like it has a 1.0 board. I've read things about the Foxlink PSU in 1.0 units... and this one has the Foxlink The pins on the AC connector are slightly movable and the solder is cracked, but working. After taking the picture I resoldered it. Is resoldering the only fix for it to prevent melting away some day? Second thing is the fan on the GPU heatsink which makes noise the first minute it's tuned on. The same noise PC fans make when they are worn. But with a PC fan I can remove the label to reveal the bearing and put a drop of oil in it, letting it run quietly again for a couple more years. But removing the label on this GPU fan doesn't reveal the bearing. Is this fan repairable in a different way?

Dears My xbox 1.6 is working intermittently. Checking the PSU, it was identified that where it should present 5v, I find approximately 1v. In addition, there is noise in the low voltage sector. In visual analysis, there are no components with deformations. However, this behavior is intermittent and, at the moment I write to you, it is working normally. Any tips on how to fix?

Hi, Long story short i brought a v1.1 Board and PSU- TSOP with x2_5035 BIOS i was told from the seller, Then brought a Stock faulty xbox (Trace rot), installed new board and PSU into the faulty xbox, Kept he stock HDD and DVD Drive from the faulty Xbox...... Anyway powers up (No Flubber) say's EXECUTER2 CONFIG LIVE LOADING..... and stays on that screen, Eject button FRAG's Is it looking for somthing from the HDD? I did try Hexen and various other Installer DVD's that work on my other consoles. Faulty DVD drive? Im a total TSOP noob and would appreciate some advice please, Theres a video i upped to my Dropbox so you can see what im talking about. Thanks all. https://www.dropbox.com/s/d4t4sh6u1k9zvp0/PXL_20221128_181143241.mp4?dl=0

I'm working on a mini Xbox and I'm going to be using a picoPSU for power. I've already read up on the 5v amperage issues and I bought one that should work fine. I've wired up all the ground, 12v, 5v, and 3.3v wires, and connected the Xbox's 3VSB, PowOK, and PowOn all to 3.3v. However, when I enable the ATX power supply and press the power button on the Xbox, I get green power LEDs for a couple seconds, then they blink green and red, and the console never powers on. Need a little guidance on what I should be changing in my setup.

It would appear that the power supply I have in my "project" xbox is faulty. Tested with another psu from my other xbox, and it works, so definetly the supply. Anyone got one they would be willing to part with at a reasonable cost? In Australia preferably (220v) Cheers

I have a 1.0 model xbox with a faulty 3rd party PSU installed by a previous owner, I also have a 1.4 with a bad video out port that I use as a parts console. I was wondering if there is anywhere I could buy a 1.4 PSU to 1.0 PSU adapter so I can swap the 1.4 PSU in, or if there is a pinout diagram so I can do the pin swap myself. Thanks

Hey guys, I've got a 1.2 that I spent the weekend revitalizing with all new fresh capacitors and upgrading the RAM to 128mb. Everything went well. I had Xblast reading all 128mb, and everything was working a treat. That is until I went to pull it apart for final disassembly to clean the case and everything up before putting all back together for the last time. I first removed the SATA/IDE adapter from the HDD, leaving the molex connector in place and holding it by the cables and moved the HDD tray out of the way. It was then, that I somehow managed to let the SATA/IDE adapter dangle enough for it to brush the PSU right along side the big 470uF 250v capacitor without realizing it. And in my excited haste, I had not yet disconnected the power cord from the Xbox... As soon as I saw the bright flash and pop that was the SATA adapter getting completely obliterated, my heart immediately sank. The adapter, of course, is thoroughly destroyed. The logic IC and one of the voltage regulators quite literally exploded. At that point, I knew I'd be extremely lucky if it was the only casualty. On the Xbox itself, it blew the T3.15A on the PSU. I had some spare 3 amp glass slow-blow fuses, so I rigged one up until I get the proper cylindrical fuse to replace it later this week. Surprisingly enough, the PSU still works fine, albeit with a slight discolored battle scar on side of the big capacitor... However the motherboard is a different story. It now 3 boot/FRAGs both with or without the X2.3b lite I've had installed for years present. Thinking I had fried it, not feeling too optimistic about fixing it, I harvested the newly installed RAM, and original RAM but subsequently reinstalled the original, after changing my mind on giving up so quickly. Anyway, I've tried all the troubleshooting methods I could with what tools I have at my disposal, which is not much. All the PSU voltages are good. I've swapped PSUs with another, just in case. One observation I made is that the MCPX X3 gets really hot very quickly, so I'm sort of thinking it's shorted and therefore also toast, and that's what's causing it to FRAG. In any case, I figured, maybe I'd share my story for your entertainment, and maybe even see if any of you had any suggestions on what else I might try to test before I go on the hunt for a replacement board and continue scavenging useful parts from this one.

I've been through hell with this Xbox over the past couple of weeks so let me give a bit of a rundown. I've got a 1.6 Xbox that I installed OpenXenium on using an LPC rebuild board, Chimeric's IDE cable, StarTech IDE/SATA adapter, and a WD 2TB drive. For the longest time I had issues with the OpenXenium install where it would FRAG if the chip was installed. I checked continuity and everything was fine with each VIA to its corresponding point, so I redid my soldering twice and it booted into OpenXenium. I then install a dash, setup the new drive, and put the Xbox back together. However it FRAG'ed again whenever I put the top case back with all the bottom screws. Took the case off, still FRAGing. I realized it was FRAGing with just Chimeric's IDE cable after a couple hours so I got a replacement cable, and everything worked fine with the top case back on. Until it didn't. After turning the Xbox off for a few hours it wouldn't turn back on, period. I took the top case off, and it powered on fine, but after a couple seconds I heard a loud whine/squealing noise from the right side of the Xbox (which I assume was the PSU) > turned the Xbox off > and then it never turned back on again, even with just the bare board. So I replaced the PSU. Issue fixed, it powered back on fine. But when I put the top case back on, it wouldn't power back on, and now I'm at the same spot I was before. The Xbox is not powering on no matter what I do. So here's what I've done so far since then to try and narrow this down: I do not know for 100% certain that the motherboard has been case swapped, but I have no reason to believe it was. The bottom stickers were all intact and the screws were not exposed, and there are no missing/extra screw posts on the bottom of the case compared to the board. I've also tested power with the board and PSU isolated from the case and I'm still not getting power, so the case is not the issue I've checked continuity with all VIAs to their corresponding points with a multimeter and they all have continuity. LFRAME is also not grounded I've checked the PSU using this chart here . I'm getting 5.3v on every orange, 0v on white, 0v on red, 0v on yellow, and 0.3v on blue I'm getting 3.25v-3.26v on the collector chip Anyone have any ideas on where to go from here?

Greetings to all, I have an xbox classic 1.0 that they gave me. As soon as I tried to turn it on the initial boot appeared, but then I heard a noise like something sizzling coming from the power supply. I open the xbox and I noticed some screws springs on the power supply which probably caused a short circuit. Now the console does not turn on anymore. If I try to turn it on, the fan turns half a turn and turns off. In stand by I have 3.25 volts on the purple cable while the transformer on the secondary between the red and black cable gives me 0 volts. What could I check. Thank you

Hello, i bought a used v1.0 xbox some months ago, which i've modded. but lately i've had problems with it. It manifested by some times i would turn it on and it does the 3 on/offs then christmas lights. Then all of a sudden it can work again for 5 times, next day i turn it on again, and it won't boot. Have to take out the motherboard and inspect my solderjoints, all ok, into the xbox and it might work again, if not repeat process etc. past 2 days i've used it, it's been working perfect then i noticed it just suddenly freezes and throws a high pitch sound on the speakers without me doing anything but just idling in xbmc menu somewhere. And now it won't start sucessfully at all. just christmas lights. And no occasional luck booting it up successfully either. I installed a aladdin modchip in it and have long been suspecting the solderwork there, since sometimes it boots and sometimes not. But now i'm thinking it might be the PSU that is the root of the problems. I looked at another thread and did the voltage testing on the 12v plug pin by starting the PSU and not connecting it to the motherboard. All the wires showed correct voltage except two. The blue wire (or grey as it is on the plug pin) is supposed to be 3.3v but shows 0.04v and the yellow wire which is supposed to be 12v but is showing 5.89v. I'm posting a picture of the psu and you can see 1 capacitor that is very bulged, i've marked it with red arrow. Should i swap out these caps with new ones? are they responsible for the incorrect voltage on specifically those 2 pins? Also the big caps on the motherboard is not bulged but i understand they can very well be off also, even it doesn't show to the naked eye. So basically are the problems coming from the PSU or the motherboard, Would it be enough to just swap out the 3 caps on the psu, you think? What about the big black 400V 180uF one? that can be a culprit too? Btw, when i started up the PSU with no load i can hear a sound coming from the big black 400v capacitator. it's buzzingsound with short 10milliseconds stops in between like as if electrolytic fluid is boiling and hissing in there. is that normal? With load it makes a lower clicking sound. it's prob just the hz from the powerline maybe.

Let me share some context: The past year, I read about the clock capacitor, so I decided to open my xbox to check the clock capacitor status and I found there was some leakage, but fortunatelly it didn't corroded other components nor traces. So I removed the clock capacitor and cleaned the area with isopropyl alcohol. Then proceeded to softmod the console with Rocky5 tools and I also updated the harddrive to a 2TB SATA HDD. Then I played almost all Rally Sport Challenge 2 cups (except the last one) to test it and after that I moved the console to the living room. Another day, I started the console to continue playing and, as soon as I started it, I heard a strong crack inside the console and some burned electronic smell, so I turned it off. Then I opened the console and I found a small tube moving around, so I started looking for its original place until I found it was one of the PSU capacitors, the one rated as 25V 47uf in a delta PSU. Then I ordered a couple of new PSUs from ebay, a delta and a minebea. As soon as they arrived, I replaced mine with the Delta one and the console can be powered on, but there was a strong burned electronic smell, so I quickly turned it off. By looking at the CPU capactitors, there was some brownish color, so I changed the 5x 1500uf 6.3v by 3x 3300uf 6.3v Panasonic FM, then turned the console on again and it was FRAGed and the smell it's not longer strong, BUT I still can smell a light "funny smell", this time it smells like "new" electronic. Please help me to throubleshoot this issue, I really would like to repair this xbox as it is the one I used 20 years ago. If you need pictures of anything please let me know.

Hey everyone, I'm new here. I have two OG Xboxes. The first I bought pre-softmodded and which cannot be turned off by the power button, I gather because a trace was eroded; I did take out the clock cap and cleaned it up, however. And the second I softmodded myself as a project because a guy was giving it away for $5. This one doesn't have power/tray eject button problems, however, it did start to make a buzz (the HDD?) or loud fan noise before this happened, but I'm not sure if that's normal for this model. Yesterday it died on me as I was playing a game, for the first time. I took it off power and gave it a rest and then tried again, and it died after a few seconds. Now it doesn't turn on at all. I did some research and given that this one never seemed to have leaked capacitor fluid, and given the caps all over are fine, no swelling, I think it must be the power supply. I thought I would check with you guys first, as I am not very computer savvy and if all I have to do is solder these, I'm not sure I could do it myself tbh, or if it would be cheaper to just hire someone who already has the tools and know how. But I need to know if these are indeed the culprit.