Search the Community

I think its a good idea to have a thread with all of the 3d printable parts listed here so that others can find them easily. I'll start by adding my own creations, here is a replacement CPU/GPU bracket. Made in Fusion 360: Original Xbox CPU/GPU bracket by ShinGoutetsu | Download free STL model | Printables.com Feel free to add links to your own!

I coulda sworn I heard about this in some thread that I can not locate. But I thought that there was a way to 3Dprint a bank select button for the X3CP. Is this true? Cuz I'm missing one. I want to buy one more X3 box plain and I have a CP for it. It's just missing a button. Any guidance you guys can offer?

I don't like that the Startech SATA-IDE adapter doesn't have a case, so I designed one for it, and thought I'd share it. It's printed in two halves and snaps together (if all goes well). sata-adapter-case.stl

Here is my version of a slim XBOX that I designed. I tried to make the case as small as possible, and still look like an original xbox. I removed the DVD drive and the power supply from the xbox. I pulled my 1.4V xbox out of storage and it was fragging. Got tired of troubleshooting it (the clock capacitor was already removed). So I bought a 1.0 on ebay with a broken dvd drive for $15. The finish on the XBOX is not super, planning to reprint in white filament ( I ran out on my test prints), and only paint the black portions of the case. https://imgur.com/gallery/o58Nul0 I am using a Xbox 360 slim power brick to power the system. The power brick has 6 wires: 2 Yellow Wires (12V), 1 Red Wire (5V), 1 Blue Wire (Power OK, when it receives a signal back it enables the 12V rails), 1 Grey Wire (needs to be grounded to enable the 5V rail), 1 Black Wire (Gnd). The 360 slim brick outputs 5V and enables the 12V rail when it receives 5V back. I wired in a tiny 5V to 3.3V convertor on the red wire on the power brick to the 3.3 standby on my 1.0 motherboard. The Power OK on the motherboard back to the blue wire on the power brick. I then wired in a 12V to 5V 20 Amp Buck/Step Down Convertor and a 12V to 3.3V 6 Amp Buck/Step Down Convertor to the yellow wires on the power brick and connected those to the 5V and 3.3 V spots on the motherboard, and wired 12V directly. Here is a crude drawing of the wiring scheme. I added a 6 pin molex connector to the back of the case and wired it directly to the power connector socket on the bottom of the motherboard. When the power brick is enabled it illuminates the led on the brick orange and the 5V rail is active. This is being dropped down to 3.3V and going to the standby on the motherboard. When the power button is pressed the motherboard sends 3.3V back to the 360 power supply (which is high enough to enable the Power OK on the brick) and enables the 12V rail. The led on the power brick turns green. This sends the 3.3V, 5V, and 12V back to the xbox and it powers on properly. When you turn the xbox off, it removes the 3.3V from the power ok line and the 12V rails are powered off (power brick led turns orange) and the SMC is reset. My xbox powers on just fine without removing any capacitors or anything, but the flubber does stutter occasionally, but always boots up to xbmc4gamers. I installed an openxenium chip in the console. I am running indbios. The system has a 500gb 2.5 inch sata hdd. The power button I put in the case interferes with the daughter board on the 1.0 motherboard, so I unsoldered the connectors for the motherboard from the daughter board and added wires to extend the board. this board is zipped ties to an ogx360 which is soldered to a 360 rf board I salvaged from a 360 console. I do not have any original controller ports in the system as I will only use the wireless 360 controllers. These board just sit in the front of the case for now. At some point I want to develop some sort of mount for these so they are not just loose in the xbox. I designed the mount for the hard drive to use some of the motherboard screw holes to mount it to the case. The fitment for the ide-to-sata board is very tight so I removed the sata connectors from the board, and soldered on a female sata connector I salvaged from a dead 360 console. I cut the ide ribbon to about 6 inches and I am using a 6" sata cable to run to the hard drive. The ide-to-sata board is powered from the dvd drive connector. I cut a molex to sata power cable and soldered it to the ide-to-sata board where the dvd connector attaches. This allows me to put the ide board on the side of the case besides the hard drive. The case is too small to use a stock case fan, so I am using the stock fan on the gpu, a 50mm fan on the cpu, and a 50mm fan in the rear of the case. I designed the case to have ports like the stock case on the side and added them to the top of the case as well. I have not seen temps go above 50C yet. I am using Noiseblocker BlackSilentFan XS-2 for the 50mm fans. The final mod I made was to remove the stock video connector and add an internal wii2hdmi board. For future revisions I am planning the following: an attiny board to allow the 360rf board to display the controller leds and run the sync functions. I will add these leds in the case similar to how the 360 displays them. Add a sync and eject button below the power button so I can sync the controllers and get into the openxenium menu if needed. Find a better connector for 6 wires for the power as the current connector is large and doesn't mount to the case very well. (feel free to post suggestions).

I wanted to switch out the stock fan for a Noctua and still retain some of the OG look and feel, this is the result. Maybe it will be of use to someone else as well. The design is up on Thingiverse and PrusaPrinters, whichever you fancy. Print instructions are there as well. Enjoy. PS. I'm also working on a design that's more compact and easier to print (in two or three parts), I'll post it if I ever get around to completing it.