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Why is it the ram and cpu upgrades on the original xbox are done. But those that do fail to upgrade the next most vital component in your console pcs. Upgrade you power supplies to a larger one to give the system better response time and a deeper well of wattage to pull from. Put an atx in there that has 2 12 v rails and make sure that board has all the power running to it efficiently a 80 or 90 % percent efficient 400 or 500 or 300 watt power supply will give you so many more options for cooling and give that mainboard all the power it needs to function better than ever. Also put low esr capacitors on the board or aluminum polymer capacitors that run at a lower frequenzy and run cooler for you system to truly modernize it. I see the cpu upgrade the ram upgrade, the firmware upgrade, the cosmetic upgrades, but no power upgrades, no capacitor component upgrades. Why are you people not doing this with your retro game consoles. Seriously why has no xbox with the formentioned upgrades that are common talked about not complimented with a larger power supply. And don't give me that crap about the system only uses so much power blah blah blah. That isn't true. A more efficient power supply and low esr capacitors will do wonders for you system. I did a power supply upgrade for the playstation 2 and i can tell you it works better than ever and i can put a 12v fan in it and still give the main board all the power it could ever need with a 180 watt imac power supply from an apple imac A1224 i have 3 for sale on ebay see them there nicely painted and perform better and have a big boy pc grounded 3 pin 110v-250v ac in plug. Also line filters Emi filters, get them there amazing.

I have an Xecuter 2.3 lite+ that I hard wired from years ago, but there is no video output. I have unplugged the DVD/HD and turned the chip off and dont get a video signal. There is a blue light on the mod chip that should be solid, but is flickering when I attempt to boot in this manner. I watched this video: and the dude put a heat gun on what appears to be the power supply capacitors and it worked. I tried something similar with mine and got it to boot one time with a solid blue light on the mod chip, but not since. I tested the power supply plug with a multimeter and all the voltages looked within spec/steady under no load. If the power supply caps are indeed the problem, should I just replace the power supply, since it appears that cap kits for it are the same price if not more expensive based on what I can google? Is there a better option to get it working again? Cheers

Hello.. Ive seen a Universal one floating around, but i have a Dead 1.0 PS and a good 1.6PS.. I was wondering if there was a diagram where id be able to splice in the 1.0 connector and remove the 1.6.. thanks in advance

I've been trying for days but to no avail I need a power supply with 220v input in one with 127v input A delta DSPN-96AP-1 I have seen that they are practically identical to the ones that have turned into DSPN-96AP it does not have the simple jumper Everything else is identical I removed the transformer and made the jumper and I powered with 127v Unfortunately the power supply does not turn on Do you have any advice?

Was given a few broken xboxes. The one im having trouble with is a 1.4. No power at all. History: was told they replaced the power supply on this one and "something blew up". I see absolutely no signs of anything blowing up. What i have tried: another known working power supply. Another case (incase power button was problem). Changed all the caps to new ones although they looked to be in like new shape. Checked bottom for tracerot from clock cap (which was already removed). Looked over whole board for any previous work (none everything is stock except clock cap was removed). I don't want to give up on it. It is the best looking one of the three I was given. Just not sure what to check or change. I haven't removed the heatsinks to check gpu and cpu. Any input from anyone would be great. I have a multimeter and can check things as suggested. Thanks in advance.

Hi everyone, new to the forum but looks like it's the right place for me to visit. I have an Xbox 1.6b (2005, Australian 240V model). Tonight it wouldn't fire up at all, completely dead and unresponsive to the power button. I opened it up and there was no obvious damage on the mobo. All i could measure on the 20 pin molex from the psu were some very low voltage (0.6V) on the 5V pins. 12V was reading 0. Ac input fuses showed good continuity. The only thing that looks suspect on the psu is the component in R10. I measured across the pins for R10 and its reading open circuit. I reflowed the solder on the AC input pins, no change. The xbox has been moldded since purchase but has been working perfectly until tonight. Nothing has been changed in the last 15 years. Still in original case. The original power cable seems to be intermittent now but other cables tried and no change. Any suggestions to help diagnose would be appreciated as I couldn't t find any replacement psu online anymore. OG psu is Tuscany rev 1.0. Tyia, tssfka

This is just a show and tell post. While doing my other Xbox research, I am powering on and off the Xbox a lot. I also do the power + eject sequence to load the backup bank on the Xecuter X3 a lot. I was thinking this would be slightly more convenient if I had a remote control so I found some spare IR receivers and a small board with a microcontroller on it and got to work. The install is pretty stealthy. It's on the left of the front panel. Microcontroller is on the back of the board. Connected up with thin enamelled wire from a transformer. Board is held in with Earth's greatest material: hot glue. I used the spare pin on the front panel connected to carry 5V to power the thing. Series resistor to limit the current or act as a fuse in case it shorts out. I programmed it to use volume up and down on a generic remote for power and power+eject. This sounds inconvenient but I never use those buttons.

Hello, my name is Carlos, I have an original xbox, I am connecting it by the eject button, because the power button is not working, when analyzing the tracks under the board I did not find corrosion, could someone please provide me with the scheme for measuring the points contact of the four tracks? so I can really check if they are broken.

Someone knows if this PSU will work on a 1.4 console? Mine is faulty and I saw that one for sale in my country (OG Xbox stuff is extremely rare here) Pics from the seller, thanks for your time.

Hi all, I have a 1.1 motherboard that is dead, I know it's not the psu as I have another 1.1 and it works in that console. Basically I was trying to add LEDs to my case which needs a 12v source. I used a Y splitter on the molex connect for the HDD, it worked for a few mins then the console died and now won't power on? I have replaced the 5 caps near the psu connector aswell. Thanks

Xbox original controller modded communicator shell with power button and USB port.... This requires modifications to be done to the console for this to function with the power button. USB port works as is. make sure you Google what this is before you ask me any questions. $20 USA Shipped. Cash App or PayPal goods and services only

I'm about to install some Internal mods and needed to know how to power them, do I just tap into the hdd's molex? I'm not using the DVD drive so I was thinking of using the 12pin header but I don't know what is a safe amp limit. The mods would draw around 2.5A, how do you guys safely power multiple Internal mods like leds, temp sensors+display, wireless controller & remote control, wifi, Extra fans?

Anyone know if there's a way to use ogx360 to power on/off the Xbox using this? Would be a really nice quality of life upgrade to the OG

I have several boards (1.0, 1.1 & 1.4) that will not power up with a known good power supply. Capacitors all look good and there are no visible signs of damage or component failure anywhere. Are there typical failure points that I should check? Would it be worth it to replace the power caps anyway? Thanks for any help. I hate to ditch these boards or just use them for parts.

Hey guys, this week I've had two xboxs that were untouched seals still intact and clock cap leaking everywhere just starting cleaning when i noticed both had the same issue, the two screws on the hard drive caddy that screw the hd to the caddy have unscrewed with vibrations from the drive I would guess as they are both the same side right looking at the front of the xbox,( if the hd spun up the other way probably be the other two) and ended up in the power supply. May be worth a drop of lock tight or a shake proof washer for anybody still using one. the screw is nestled in between the the heat sinks next to the transformer. Ted

Hi all, I recently came across a 1.4 xbox that would not power on, and after replacing the power supply with one from a working 1.4 console it came to life. i checked the fuse for continuity and it was blown, so i replaced it and now this piece blew up (see picture) and instantly blew the fuse again. i was wondering if anyone knows where i can get a replacement of the piece that exploded, cheers.

I made a post a few weeks back about getting a 1.6 with a HDD that immediately died after booting. Couldn’t get eeprom in time. Looks like someone was trying to tinker around and really screwed some things up. Without the wires and chip, the Xbox will boot into HDD failure error which I’m fully aware of. I tried getting two Aladdin chips fitted and neither one of them will boot. They both flash green light for a second and then power off. One chip shows red light and the other shows yellow. I’ve reflowed solder points countless times and still the same result. I’ve tried D0 grounded to board and the chip and other various places I’ve seen and read about, but nothing works. As you can see from the board, there have been several trace lifts, but from what I’ve seen I have everything linked up properly accordingly to the lifted traces. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I do not want to keep the chip inside so I have not cut the L-Frame. I just want to pull the eeprom and build a replacement drive. These Aladdin chips on 1.6 are proving to be a real pain in the ass.

Hi all, so I've just done a really dumb/bad thing and was hoping to get some advice please... Putting a different HD into my modded box, the X3 chip wasn't booting (it sometimes doesn't sit right and has to be wiggled) and stupidly, without thinking, I tried moving the disc drive unit on top of it, while the unit was still plugged in... One loud pop, a flash on the power board and a blown trip switch in my flat later: the Xbox is now dead... :-( So my question is: am I screwed? Or can I swap out the power supply board for a replacement one? I have 2 spare working Xboxes in the cupboard - so could I just replace the whole power supply board? Or is that gonna be "way too easy"... (I'm guessing they were a few different types of power supply boards back in the day: the attached photo is the one in my modded box...)

Looking to purchase power button for og Xbox. Would like power button with blue LEDs. If anyone has one available please message me. Thanks

Hey everyone, I'm new here. I have two OG Xboxes. The first I bought pre-softmodded and which cannot be turned off by the power button, I gather because a trace was eroded; I did take out the clock cap and cleaned it up, however. And the second I softmodded myself as a project because a guy was giving it away for $5. This one doesn't have power/tray eject button problems, however, it did start to make a buzz (the HDD?) or loud fan noise before this happened, but I'm not sure if that's normal for this model. Yesterday it died on me as I was playing a game, for the first time. I took it off power and gave it a rest and then tried again, and it died after a few seconds. Now it doesn't turn on at all. I did some research and given that this one never seemed to have leaked capacitor fluid, and given the caps all over are fine, no swelling, I think it must be the power supply. I thought I would check with you guys first, as I am not very computer savvy and if all I have to do is solder these, I'm not sure I could do it myself tbh, or if it would be cheaper to just hire someone who already has the tools and know how. But I need to know if these are indeed the culprit.

Searched a good bit on the general symptoms of power button failure for Xbox original but most lead back to trace corrosion issues. The case here is a very small person got access to my original xbox and spent an unknown amount of time mashing the power button. The next time I went to turn her on, the power button flashed for a brief second and hard drive spun as well but then died. A few more attempts and now nothing happens. The switch still clicks audibly for what thats worth but no sounds that power is getting to anything and no light. I've opened it up to start looking at possible source of damage but have not come up with anything. Looking for any suggestions or guidance on where and what to probe. Thanks.

have some weird Power issues, researched previous posts but didn't want to hijack their threads and not sure if they were the same situation anyway. Here's the current situation: Bought console off ebay with acknowledgement that power button did not work and that it powered on by simply plugging in or hitting the eject button...(sounds like classic trace rot). Clock cap was removed by seller and area cleaned, he also replaced thermal paste on CPU/GPU and verified that the console worked and played games. I have not verified trace damage extent yet but he said there was a little. The console appears to have other things going on other than trace rot and I wanted to see if there was something else I could test on the top of the mb based on the below current working status before I get to trace rot stuff. When I got it, after a couple of power cycles where it remained powered on plugging it in, it now no longer powers on simply by plugging in, instead it only does by hitting eject button, and when that occurs it only stays powered on for about a second. Stby voltage checks good at 3.3V and POWON just gets to 3.3V before it powers off. POWOK doesn't fully spool up. When DVD removed and only HD power still attached (or even if HD removed), it powers on via eject button for 6 seconds and provides the following readings: Eject button triggers POWON voltage at 3.3V for 6 seconds. POWOK registers at 3.3V as well until it cuts off. Even if button remains held down, voltage drops off on both at 6 seconds and it powers down All other voltages read correct during the 6 sec power on except the yellow which comes in at 11.8vdc Eject button LED comes on and flashes red. If DVD plugged in, when eject button pressed DVD is ejected and retracts before powering down No obvious Cap leakages/bulges discovered. Any ideas? Thank you!

I've got a 1.4 mobo that I purchased that's supposed to be in working condition. I have a known good 1.4 PSU. Clock cap was removed when I got it and there is no trace corrosion whatsoever and I've checked for continuity and correct voltages in all the correct places. I've replaced all the CPU capacitors. The motherboard looks pristine, however there is no response whatsoever to pressing the power button. I've even tried different power button boards. The PIC is getting the correct voltages to the correct pins when I press the buttons. What is left to check or repair?

My power supply died recently and I'm looking to take readings to test different areas to rebuild it. I was curious if anybody had diagrams with ratings for the single row connector revision of the power supply? If not could I get ratings for the components that blew in the picture attached to this post?

Hello, first time Xbox repair-er here. So I took an old Xbox out of storage (10-ish years). Turned it on and it powered up fine, clock set screen came up which was expected since I assumed I was going to be ripping the clock cap out anyway. Also the disk tray wouldn't open, again an easy fix, no big deal. I open it up, clean the DVD drive and reset the belt (boiling water, etc.) and put it all back together. Only this time it doesn't turn on. I can hear a faint noise coming from the hard drive but nothing else, no indicator lights, no disk tray activity, nothing. My guess is more than one of the caps was going bad and that final power on I did was just the nail in the coffin. I plan to open it up and do a full cleaning to see if there's anything obvious, but the fact that the HDD seems to still be getting power makes me think that I possibly broke something. Is it possible that bad caps could cause power to stop going to certain components but not others?