Search the Community

I went to turn on my xbox and it keeps telling me to calibrate the screen when booting into XBMC4GAMERS. I calibrate it and then it tell me it needs to restart for the changes to take effect. I restart it and the same thing happens again. It says Script Failed in top left corner. Ive attached the log if anyone can help. xbmc.log

I recently tried watching a DVD and realized that there was no audio. I switched over to Analog output, and I got audio through my HDMI Audio Extractor headphone amp. Once I was done watching tough, I noticed some 60-cycle hum and went, "Oh god, NO." I use this thing to listen to 1400Mbps music and a low noise floor is pretty much essential. I switched it back to digital output, but the hum persists. XBMC is the ONLY application doing this. the MS Dash is completely fucking silent and the music sounds nice and clean through it... like how my XBMC installation did before I screwed around with it all day. I believe XBMC is not outputting digital properly somehow and everything else IS. I have a Pound converter handling the encoding of analog and digital into the HDMI signal. Any ideas, guys?

Hi all, I had originally posted in softmods regarding a softmodded Xbox that would throw an Error 07 whenever booting from a newly cloned drive. Now, I can't even boot properly into the dashboard with the original HDD because it will just reboot constantly so I think this part of my problem might be more at home here. Revision is a 1.1 (Kernel 4817). Softmodded with Rocky5's Softmodding tool (use SC Pal save exploit from a USB stick) - all went flawlessly. Before putting the xbox all together, I thought I'd clean the underside of the motherboard and while I was at it, remove the old thermal paste and repaste. I used a hair dryer on low with a couple of temp spikes to speed up the process on the GPU. After my problems with the new cloned drive, I gave up and thought I'd just use the console as is for now, cause I can still play my physical games. However, I'm confronted with a new problem : It will do the boot animation and then 2 scenarii : 1) If I'm on my new Tv with my component cable (had to resolder everything cause I misinterpreted the schematics as being from the back but it now works properly as I see the boot sequence -s can this badly soldered cable have shorted omething?) : I get a black screen with the occasional flicker. 2) Now, on my LCD PC monitor I'll have either a) it boots and I can go about the menu and all, played a game (too scratched to really start but menu was there, buggy music but working). or b) the picture flickers and I catch a glimpse of the boot menu for a split sec and it disappears. I tried going to applications and enigmah to change it back to pal, but my monitor seems unbothered by that (recognises ntsc fine) and every time I press down, thinking I'll be in applications, next flicker I see of the menu, it's back at the top, meaning it's actually rebooted in the meantime. Here's a video to visualise it : https://imgur.com/a/EmA5mmy I've managed to have a stable boot and changed Enigmah back to Pal to be on the safe side. Now, I checked for continuity on all traces, on MadMartigan's advice, and they beep effortlessly. Here is a pic of both sides. I know top looks pretty gnarly but all was cleaned with 90% alcohol and cotton swabs. I didn't scrub it though. https://imgur.com/a/y72odPm The little transistor O7G1, right from the original clock cap on the second picture, looks a bit weird at the pads. Could this play a part? How would I test it? Thanks in advance for your insights and time! Cheers

Hi, I need some help please. After the death of my beloved xbox v1.0 I decided to get a new one, I get a 2002 with motherboard V1.1 and Aladdin XT installed. The console starts and switches off 2 times and then boots normally. By holding down the power button for a few seconds I was sometimes able to start the change. I thought it was faulty and ordered another brand new Aladdin xt plus 2(fake). i notice my old owner had soldered the pins out the mod directly on aladdin main and wired the wires H0 L1 BT D0. it seemed strange to me that it did not use the socket available on the small aladdin board. I then cleaned everything, removed the welds and tried the main and to my amazement it does not start and always cycles on off and then remains on without an image and the LED flashes red. I mount the chip and send D0 to ground and the console magically starts at the first shot without starting the mod, although I set the BT to ground to always leave the mod ON. why does he behave like this? I checked the pins and everything seems okay, the soldering too. I guess it's a motherboard problem right? can you help me please, I really want to make it work again. grazie mille Pietro

Hello, I am stuck in a pickle and hope someone can help. I just TSOP flashed in my Xbox and it is now stuck in a boot loop. The Xbox logo appears along with the Microsoft logo and then the system resets to do it again. I first installed the rocky 5 softmod, used the bios checker disc to make sure it was ready to flash (it displayed "TSOP?") and then used the TSOP flash mode of the extras disc to flash the system. everything went like normal and then after the BIOS was flashed and the system rebooted it just kept rebooting itself. It is at the 3:56 mark in the attached video . I'm new at this and out of my element here, please help.

Hi The other day I grabbed my console from my loft, it's a 1.1 with a Samsung Drive, fitted with an X2 chip from back in the day. Before switching it on I had it apart and removed the clock cap, I cleaned up the area and couldn't see damage apart from to one of the unused VIAs under the cap (it looks like it's designed to allow a different sized cap in this spot right?). I did a visual inspection of the other caps and couldn't see any bulges or obvious leaks. I don't know which version BIOS is on the X2, looking around the HDD it's likely 5031 or 5035, and it's got an EvoX dash on it, I found a Slayers 2.7 disc so I'm guessing I used this. Now the actual problem! The tray keeps ejecting whilst I'm sat on the dash. It ejects, I close it and the dash reports INIT in the disc status, i hear it trying to read and then it gives up and ejects again, then goes around in a loop. I had to goto work then, so switched it all off and left it. Returned from work later and try again. This time whilst it was doing the eject, init, eject ini loop I was searching for solutions and trying it with the X2 disabled and enabled. Finally the tray stays shut. I launch a game off of the HDD and it's fine. Booted my Slayers disc and it was fine. Search results were saying that Samsung have tray getting stuck issues normally. Check for things obstructing in the drive and give it a grease. Other results were saying that the clock cap could have caused some damage that relates to this (but that also depends on mobo version). I'm leaving it off again now, to see if it misbehaves after cooling down again (which is what happened earlier), and then I'll be pulling it apart again to have another look. I'm a bit gutted that I ordered a bunch of Cap Kits from Console5 last week for other machines but wasn't thinking about the old xbox at the time. Ordering just the xbox kit will cost more in shipping (to the UK) than the caps and be slow at the moment. I'll have to look for a UK supplier or stop being lazy and buy the individual caps! Can anyone advise on what is most likely out of the causes I mention, or even if there's more things to look at ta Pete

Ok guys got an issue that is getting on my wick. Slapped a 2.3b Lite into a 1.6, used a clone LPC Rebuild Kit and proceeded to boot the console. D0 was connected to the board and ground was connected to the screw hole as usual. As soon as you put power to the console it will boot up then reset 2 times before FRAGGING. Only when D0 is connected and chip is off. With chip on with M8 1.6 Bios I can get a boot with Evo shield but it hangs after that and still turns on as soon as a power cord is plugged in. Front panel doesn't work at all. Remove the chip or D0, and it'll boot fine to the original softmod it came from. I've reworked it with my iron, even given it a hot air rework. Which point is most likely the culprit? Apologies on the lead free solder. Was using a friends over my own.

I'm new to the xbox modding scene. I was given a v.14 og xbox from a friend that was never modded/tampered with. I'm thinking about doing a tsop since I like the idea of not having to deal with locking/unlocking hard drives. My question is, if I remove the clock capacitor, which bios make sure I don't run into a clock boot loop error 16?