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So I modded my old XBOX with the SID 5.11 (I think) and then used FTP to add more old emulator images to make it fun for my grandkids but then the oldest grandkid did "something" clever (I have no idea what wasn't there) and the machine reverted to it's original boot state (unmodded) and I am wanting to get it back to modded again. Any ideas or suggestions on how to do this and I would very much appreciate if someone could point me to instructions on how to build the old SID boot USB that goes with the Mechassault DVD - still got my custom USB cable and DVD but need to build a new SID USB because no idea where the old one went. You'd be making seven grandkids and one grandpa very very happy (Christmas morning level happy) Thank you in advance for any info you can offer me!

I have an unmodded 1.4 Xbox with a Samsung SDG-605B drive that won't read discs. The drive sounds like it's trying to read a disc, but then gets kicked out to the Xbox menu. I've tried all the usual things: cleaning the laser, greasing the rails/gears, adjusting the pots (anywhere from +10% to -20% of the original resistance) with no luck. Determined to get this fixed, I ordered a few replacement lasers from: https://alltroniccomputer.com.sg/products/cd-dvd-xbox-optical-pickup-sohd16-soh-d16-xbox360 My original laser pickup is SOH-DR16S, but it should be interchangeable with this one-- SOH-D16. I ordered 2 just to be sure and neither one of them worked. And yes I desoldered the anti-static blob and played with the pots. I read on another thread that the SDG-605F resistor arrays NR601 - NR606 can commonly fail. I checked the analogous resistors on the SDG-605B but they seem to measure the correct resistances. Lastly, I swapped DVD drives with a working Xbox and sure enough the working Xbox won't read discs, while the broken Xbox is fixed. So I'm pretty sure the problem is isolated to the DVD drive. There is such a scarcity of information on this drive on the internet and this forum seems to be the best resource. Any ideas on what it could be/what I could do next?

I'm planning to order some boards from Lukas and performing this mod on my main box and a couple other ones, but I have some questions that I need answers to and I don't want to annoy him with this stuff. If you guys would be willing to offer some advice, I would really, really appreciate it. -What is the best way to "ball" the underside of the interposer? Do I just have to organize the solder balls by hand, without a stencil or anything? That will be tedious as fuck. -When preparing to solder the CPU to the interposer, Lukas' github instructions say to "flux" every pad individually, but I think he means "tin" them? Otherwise the CPU pins will have nothing to bond to! Can anybody clarify this? Also, (and I wasn't able to find anything helpful with a google search about this) am I going to have a problem soldering the CPU to the interposer without ruining the bond I've established between the interposer and the board? Or the components (caps, etc.,) I've soldered to the interposer? I don't want to reheat everything I've already soldered if I can avoid it... -What is the best way to align the interposer to the board? Do I have to just eyeball it and see that the interposer balls are lining up with the pads on the mobo? If so, then god DAMN.... -How do I hook up a #STPCLK switch to the VCC/GND leads? -Lukas has already recommended a good rework station that I will pick up in 3-4 weeks or so, but does anybody have recommendations for a soldering iron/station? Maybe some sort of kit that comes with everything I will need for this project? In fact, what WILL I need for this project? I only have a few tools in mind that I'm sure of so far. I have basic soldering skills. Modchip installs are cake. But this is a huge step up from soldering a friggin' pin header and some random wires. -Could I theoretically use XBoverclock to push this CPU even higher? Maybe to 1.6Ghz? I am seriously overwhelmed here. I will have no problem being able to do this once I know where to start and gain some momentum. I learn things pretty fast and am pretty coordinated. I thought about maybe starting on some RROD 360s or something and then moving on to this after that. Once I set my mind to something, I do it, whether I succeed or fail. So I will not be swayed by anybody saying, "Dude, I think you probably shouldn't bother. You're in over your head." Yes, I'm afraid of fucking up, but I know for a fact that I want to do this. It will give me immense satisfaction knowing I was able to pull this off. I need help though! Once I get 3 done, I will order more interposers and start upgrading boxes regularly, along with extra ram and the MakeMHZ Xbox HDMI. Hopefully I can start selling them to people for a non-rip-off price, because I know people want this done and it would make me really happy to be able to make it a reality for people without them having to spend 1,500 bucks on ebay. I love the OG Xbox and I want to be a useful contributor to the scene! Can you guys please give me some advice? I suppose this is a step in the right direction? http://www.easybga.com/en/supply-bga-reballing-kit_l101_p9.html

Hi guys, first time posting here. So, I live in Brazil and the OG Xbox never got sold here. Recently bought one with a defective 110V PSU to attempt to repair and have currently reached a dead end trying to solve it. What I currently have is the following: ===PSU's PRIMARY SIDE=== - First filter cap (the really big one near) has a reading of approx. 170V. - When powering off, the voltage drains off filter cap normally. ===SECONDARY SIDE=== - No bulging caps, haven't recapped. Shorted VSTB to POW-ON to test and got the following: - 3.27V on VSTB to POW-ON, which I understand is what is needed. - 3.16V on VSTB to VS, which I think is low. - 5.3 on DNA1002D's pin 1, which I'm not sure is supposed to be that high. - 13.5V on the HV end of the optocouplers and little to nothing on the other end, which I think is wrong. - nothing on the pins for 5V nor 12V when shorting VSTB to POW-ON My best bet is the voltage is off on the secondary part of the PSU, maybe because of a faulty transistor or resistor (haven't found the fault) and POW-OK isn't triggering the feedback circuit, but I'm not entirely sure. I'm an amateur at best and know I shouldn't be attempting to repair a PSU with little knowledge, but am taking every precaution possible. Any help is much appreciated. Thanks!

So I got my Xbox back after 20 years and it no longer boots into the dash. Its like its stock but the boot screen still says xecuter2 instead of Microsoft so I have hope that is still working. Could it be booting to the stock menu cause the chip is disabled? I'll attach a pic of my mod chip.

Okay, I wanted to use SweetDarkDestiny's TSOP flash kit for all of my consoles that I am trying to flip and sell. I'll save money on modchips , and I want to be able to manage my TSOP AND flash it if that's possible, with an Xblast Lite. The xblast lite can do this, correct? With 1.0 and 1.1 consoles of course (1 meg flash). I do want to know if the xblast menu for the Lite will let me flash the TSOP? I mean, since it can manage it, whatever that means ,I'm sure it can flash it, correct?

I am trying to set Cerbios to launch XMBC off of E drive. I edited to the .ini to say "DashPath1 = \Device\Harddisk0\Partition1\Dashboard\default.xbe" and placed it in C:\ I then put the XMBC files in E:\Dashboard and it doesnt boot. The only thing the BIOs boots into is C:\xboxdash.xbe. I am trying to do this because I want to put MSDash on C and not XMBC. What am I doing wrong? I want to be able to boot stock dash when I want. Its a pain in the ass when the dash doesnt boot because I keep needing to put the HDD into my Stellar xbox inorder to FTP again. I dont have a IDE port on my PC.

I just need to know how to wire these LEDs up and what the resistor values are. I can't find any place that is either still up or still hosting photos.

I bought an xecuter 2.6 modchip not realising it was flashed for a 1.6 xbox but mine are all 1.0-1.4 how would I go about reflashing so I can install and use this in one of them. Any help greatly appreciated.

After i Tsop my xbox with Evox M8 plus the dash won't boot and i was know about this then i tried to install unlashx dash from hexen 2021 disc then i installed in E/Dash and then i got message says: do you want to make it your default dash, i click in Yes, after that the boot animation frozen with microsoft and when i tried to boot hexen nothing happend :(

Hello!I am trying to softmod my original xbox.I tried to do it using this clip:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbSb7BFRQNo I did everything in the video correctly.So the problem is:I dont have ide ports on my motherboard so i tried using ide to sata adapter and when i plug it in my pc and turn it on,it shows in disk management as not initalized,but when i tried to use xplorer 360 it says could not find fatx drive.I tried with 2 hot swap techincs,setting compatibility to win xp sp3,running it as administrator,tried different programs.But nothing works.I dont have xbox friendly usb drive and i also dont have any game that has save game exploits.Sorry for bad english.

i have some time today to clean my xbox then i noticed something missing inside the controller daughterboard… browsing on ifixit took it a comparison.. is it the reason why my 2 controllers not working?? Thanks in advance

Hello, sorry for nagging you, but I am really don't know much about the og xbox modding stuff... My problem is, I have 3 og xbox, two of them working great, and 1 can't play two important games, everything else working great. Forza motorsport, and Counter-strike. When I launch them it gives me a black screen on my main xbox, in CS I can hear the background music as well. On my other 2 xboxes they can run these games without a problem. The only differences I can see with my newbie eyes are the "faulty" xbox has XMBC dashboard, while the others have that regular one, unleashx or evox (I can't really tell the differences), but would be the problem only this? I know the 2 working one is hardware modded, at least this is what I requested when I sent it to the service, the other, well, I don't remember seeing a chip inside, maybe tsoped, or softmodded. Oh and the xbox that doesnt run the games is a 1.0 xbox I guess, I mean it has a fan on the gpu, only the 1.0 had it, right? And among the working ones one is 1.6, the other I dont know. So that is all the hints I can give to you, but I am all ears what should I look for to post here, to be able to solve the mysteri. Oh, and I would like to mention a couple things I read about this black screen, one is a problem solve for others, but not for me: "Load up MSdash and switch language to any other. Then switch off and on again and go back to ms dash and select original language. Then restart with Forza. Worked for me first time with HDD and DVD backups" --> I could not step into the original MSdash, tried it switching inside XMBC, didn't work. An other post that I can't find now was about EEPROM and that I should disable something called "xbox persistent softmod", but I can't find any option like that to set... Thanks!

can someone help me? to get the voltage and capacity right, a part of my cap is gone, some I remove because its started to leak and 1 I accidentally knock by my arm oh and btw its a 1.6 revision for more detail C5G2 C2E2 C1E2 C1E1 C1F2 C1G10 that all the cap missing

I have this xbox PSU TUSCANY model but with missing components ,and i wanna repair it Can anyone help me with missing components reference. thnx.

Hi can some help me my Xbox has broken ied port see pic i know i can unweld this. What is this part called so i can buy this i show some on ebay 5Pcs 2.54mm 0.1" Pitch 2x30 Pin 60 Pin IDC Male Box Header Flat Cable Connector it looks the same but have no clue if it will work.

Hi all, I have a 1.6 Xbox which I believe has an xecuter 2.6 modchip installed (looks identical to the ones pictured) with the toggle switches. 3 with leds and one just behind them, underneath. I used the ogxbox installer 2021 disk with xbpartitioner1.3 to setup my hdd. I used the setup new large hdd as it’s 2tb. All went well, with drives F and G showing, I think, 927gb each. Yet on xbmc4gamers G drive is unavailable. I have the evox m8+ bios currently. What could be causing this and would it be worthwhile flashing the cerbios bios if at all this is possible? Thanks in advance, Rob 33DDEBF5-561E-425F-9059-2AB2128DD013.webp

Please see link to 10 images of board here https://imgur.com/a/nJotOX1 The machine in question is a v1.0 with fresh electrolytic capacitors installed everywhere a few weeks ago aside from the power supply (Foxlink, with resoldered power leads). It also has an Aladdin mod chip which I was running Cerbios 2.2.0 beta on previously. After successfully upgrading the RAM on a v1.4 machine yesterday I decided to do my primary xbox today. RAM in question is the leaded F-QC50 variant. They appear entirely to be authentic Samsung chips. With XBlast OS flashed to the mod chip, I began with the RAM install. First chip, test, success. Second chip, test, fail. Quick rework and second passes. Then I decide to do the last two together and test afterwards. Test shows 1-3 pass, number 4 fails. This is the one below the CPU and next to the connector from the power supply. Rework number 4 with an iron, not hot air, still fails, rework it again, still fails. Go for a third try and now the Xbox will momentarily boot with solid green LEDs (hard disk spins up, fans spin normal speed, LED on mod chip illuminates) then quickly cuts power. Then will turn itself on again about a second later, usually with no LEDs on the eject button, fans spin normally, LED on mod chip lights, then power cuts out. There is no display. I also swapped in a known good power supply from a different v1.0 and no difference was made. This cycle appears to repeat indefinitely. Sometimes the LEDs on the eject button light up green, sometimes they flash green, other times there is no light at all. I have tried with no disc drive and no hard disk, with just one of those, and with both of them. I removed the fourth RAM chip in an attempt to rule out the chip itself, however the same result ensues. I then removed a factory RAM chip (M-QC50) from a known good console and installed that in the fourth slot, no change. I ended up removing that chip so only ones that passed the test in XBlast are installed. I know it is possible for the chip to be bad, yet still pass. I took the utmost care not to “splash solder” around while installing and/or removing the memory. I taped up the surrounding areas of the board and components with kapton tape before performing any work with hot air or an iron. High quality flux was used and cleaned up. I examined the board thoroughly multiple times and I cannot physically see an issue. Using hot air I carefully reflowed the factory RAM as well as the three that I added. My question mainly is where should I be looking for a solution to this issue? This is not the typical 3 reboots then FRAG problem. Is there a power related component I should be looking at? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Opened up the Xbox to fix some trace corrosion. When I put everything back in and booted up, none of my controllers were working. Iv double checked the daughter board several times. Everything is plugged in correctly. On boot up it launches the clock and none of my controllers work in any of the slots. I found out I was atleast getting power through the controller port because when I plugged in my Wingman XB2 it lights up. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Bit of a conundrum. Using Rocky5 Soft Mod I registered my Xbox for Insignia. I did not null my HDD previously, now it says if I do null it it will "stop XBL (Insignia) from functioning until you restore the original HDD key" . I want to null it because I want to swap my harddrive right now to a bigger one, but I also want Insignia to work. Should I risk it? Do I have to null in order to swap harddrives or is there another way?

Hello! I know there is a beta version of FATXplorer available and it supports the original Xbox. Is there any good tutorials on how to get started? Other than plugging in my OG Xbox hdd into my computer with FATXplorer running that is as far as I got. Nothing showed up for a drive to use so hopefully I'm missing a super simple step to get started.

I bought all the bits to make an openxenium and I've watched SMT soldering videos to learn techniques using soldering iron and airflow with solder paste, and I watch this video it makes it look so easy and they're zipping through it I've persevered trying to solder it all together a few times but im doing something wrong. I assume the guy in the vid above uses a magnifier like in my setup but its still too small for me, I can barely see the parts, so apart from good eyesight whats his setup off camera? is it likely a microscope/camera and looking at a screen? the next problem is soldering, dragging an iron across the legs makes the solder arches up the IC legs and really difficult to get off again no matter how much flux I use, it took me hours to solder on the IC's "nicely" and ripped a couple of pads trying to get solder off then running traces, absolute pain but all good practice. I ended up using a combination of the tips, the small one for fix ups. I used reflow and solder paste on the caps, resistors and transistors, that worked easy enough and they still showed near enough correct values after, I consider this luck with the way I blasted them to get the solder to melt into place. I had trouble trying that technique with IC's though. The end result doesn't look pretty but I've tested connectivity with the multimeter, found a huge blob of solder under one IC leg shorting to the neighbour, anyway next step programming the firmware see if it actually works I can't understand why soldering SMDs turns out painful for me compared to the video, he zips through it. does everyone go through this with SMT soldering? what do I need to improve? different gear or just more practice?

Hi everyone from Italy. I just purchased a component cable to improve the resolution of my xbox, modded with Evolution-X V+3935. I bought the cable after watching some youtube tutorials and reading some posts online where they claimed that by connecting the Xbox through the component cable and selecting NTSC in the game region settings of the Evo-X dashboard, the possibility to select different resolution would automatically appear in the Microsoft Dashboard also on PAL Xboxes. I have done all that but still no option to select different resolutions in the video settings of the Microsoft dashboard. I am stuck with the standard resolution. What am I doing wrong ? Am I missing something ? I read somewhere that on PAL Xboxes the hi resolution settings have been removed from the dashboard, and that this would require softmodding to reinstall them. Not sure if this is required also with an hard modded console, or if I am facing some other problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated !!

So I have all my games working and have tried XBMC-Emustation & XBMC4Gamers, Ive updated the dash to the newest version (tried the stable and non stable version). Ive downloaded and updated the Xbox Artwork Installer but every time i run it, it starts and adds the artwork but it stops in the middle of the of the D's in my library. The percentage bar hits 26% and then it quits and just sits on the artwork installer menu. I can run it again but the same thing just keeps happening. Is there a way to just manually add the artwork using fatxplorer, this is the last step. I just need the artwork so i can run Xbmc4Gamers as my dash and have it look amazing!

Hi. I just got a second xbox classic, but with the problem that it's missing the hard drive. It's hard-moded with xc-changer chip. I have some knowlage, but still need some help. My plan is to first backup the eeprom using rpi or arduino (i have both). After that I have to find a compatible hdd (or maybe ssd). And at the end I have to use the eeprom backup to change the hdd key using a pc (forgot the name of the program). Correct me if i'm wrong. I appreciate your help.