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Hi all, I grabbed a v1.6 from a local seller and after confirming it worked fine, I opened it and gave it a good cleaning along with new MX-4 thermal paste on the CPU and GPU. I then soft-modded it and once UnleashX loaded, I saw the temps were floating around 65 degrees celsius. I figured ok, the pastes were fresh, those would go down. Long story short, they didn't. The system idles at 55 celsius and reaches 75 after gaming. Every other console I've owned/worked on hovers around 55 degrees under heavy load and drops back to 45 on idle. I opened it and took a closer look - the heatsink bracket seems to be warping away from the board. Where I've seen it sitting flush on other consoles, there is a good 2 mm gap under the GPU. I assume it means the heatsinks aren't as snug as they should be, causing the higher temps? The clips are still seated properly, but it looks like the heatsink bracket is pulling away. Is this a common issue? Should I just try to ignore it? Thanks all!

So, since everyone has 3d printers now days (except me) and doing no longer real craftsmanship *LÖL* (Just kidding guys) and little me already thought a long time about doing this mod, I like to show you a work in progress (~75% done). The CPU heatsink fits nice and snug on the GPU (Less movement as on the CPU). Pics: https://imgur.com/a/YlyDcjF And the last pic shows a final heatsink with slightly trimmed cooling fins and 50mm cooler on top. At the end both of the cpu heatsinks will look like this (Taken that pic of one of my slim builds). And yea, it's for my next slim build which I biuld for my own. Let me know what you guys think and what you belive could be done better.

Hi Everyone.after a long time of being away from the Original xbox I decided to buy one and get back into it for some of the games I have. I got a v1.0 and instantly removed the Clock Cap. I then softmodded it and tsop flashed successfully the latest cerbios v2.02 UDMA5 version (I also replaced the iIDE cable at the same time. everything was fine apart from the loud whine coming from the GPU fan so I bought the v1.2+ heatsink and went and replaced it in the Xbox today. After putting it all back together it turned on and booted into the dash fine (XBMC4Gamers) but after a minute of sitting there it glitched out and it restarted 3 times before doing the red/green flashing light. I think I may have used bad thermal paste that may have been out of date. I reused the metal clamp on the gpu. I also repasted the CPU at the same time but when I went to reattach the clamp it didn't seem to clamp down fully on the CPU either. could the BIOS get damaged while the Xbox is running causing it to now frag? does anyone have any advice on this?

Greetings from Japan, wonderful people of this wonderful forum! I have been a long time lurker and and even longer time dreamer (to have a OG Xbox). As you might know here in Japan Original Xboxes are rare and come pretty expensive (50 to 120usd depending on the conditions). Anyway I recently bit the bullet and for 4500jpy(40usd) got my hands on a semitransparent black limited edition with controllers HD converters and original cables, all in very good conditions (externally). DVD is finicky but after few shots works. MB should be a 1.0 according to serial number. The seal is still intact which makes me believe nobody has been in there. I got a copy of splinter cell, ordered usb port and ide-to-sata interface, ide cables. I am studying now right usb stick while I was looking my chances for a softmod and maybe an HDD upgrade (I have many laying around). I read discussions in which members say "chip or death" but I am noob with solder - I fix almost everything all the time so I do not know if it is a bit of a complex, Japanese humility or just I am still a noob for real. Let's just say I am not confident enough to try TSOP or modchips on this beauty while just remove the clock capacitor is something I would feel totally ok doing. Looking around for component I stumbled upon this seller online that offers what stated in the title: a modded xbox 128mb ram, 2tb, fanless heatsink, softmodded for 200usd. I mean just the components are about 150usd. The guy clearly loves xbox. The fan-less heat-sink and the lack of a modchip are the only two things that really make me go like "nani?" especially the heat sink so I decided to ask here... I know that later models did not have one but is it safe? also how it is the price? should I just drop it and buy this one or should I softmod it by myself? In case can I swap the "shell" with the one I have or depends on the MB series? Thank you for reading this huge thing. edit: also can you suggest me a reliable and noob friendly step by step guide to softmod?

I'm thinking of cleaning the inside of my xbox but i wonder if it is save to take the sink off and if yes do i just rip it off bby force or do i need something that shoots direct heat onto it in order to get it off.

Recently I got Xbox Classic (v1.0), and it has a little cooler on GPU heatsink (like every 1.0), which I would like to remove. Can I just take the fan off, and leave a heatsink without it? Has anyone tried it, and use the console that way? Also, I'll change a thermal paste with MX-4. Sent from my STF-L09 using Tapatalk

I've seen mods that replace the CPU and GPU heatsinks with fan heatsinks (like the Iceberq 4 Pros). I want to do the same thing to my console, but I'm not sure where I could connect them. I have a 1.0 motherboard, so I could use the original CPU fan connector to power one. But where do I power the other? I've seen people use the exhaust fan connector to power one of the fans. How is that done, while still being able to use the exhaust fan too? Could I safely use a 3 pin y splitter on the CPU fan connector to power both CPU and GPU fan heatsinks? Or if I wanted to use a 3 pin splitter for the exhaust fan and GPU fan heatsink, would that be safe as well? Also, I would like to install 2 sets of LED lights. One would be 2 pin and the other would be 4 pin. Where could I connect these to power them safely? Everything is 12 volt. And I would rather not do any soldering. If I have to solder, i would rather it be wire to wire soldering and not directly to PSU or motherboard.