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So I had the issue where the xbox would come on as soon as it was plugged in and the power button would not work to shut it off. So I did the trace repair on all 5 traces in the tutorial. Now the xbox will still come on as soon as it's plugged in but it will not shut off Randomly. Is there another trace other than the 5 in the tutorial That need repair?

Hi there, Noob that just join this community for some solid advice/direction for my upgrade, I have a working 1.6A xbox with a Super Aladdin Live modchip running XBMC on a 80 Gb IDE HDD My aim is to upgrade the HDD to a 500 Gb Sata HDD (I know I could go bigger) and also upgrade to Rocky 5 instead.... I currently have: - The 80 wire/40 pin IDE cable (ATA 100/133) - IDE to Sata converter - 500Gb Sata HDD What are my options? Do I have to hot swap the HDD with the disk drive with a program running on the xbox ? Thanks in advance for any help or links for guides/programs to help me !!

That shit is elusive now. Can't find it. Anybody still have the ips file and the ips application?

I would like to use my Xbox as an Arcade emulation machine but found that certain games don't run at full speed (e.g Outrunners plays at 40fps most of the time, Outzone has lots of slowdown when there's any paralax or lots happening on screen, etc). I was wondering if an Xbox with the 128mb RAM upgrade would help with these performance problems?

Hello guys, I just updated the fan of my Xbox and want to set now the default value of the fan to 100%. Unfortunately I don't have a Windows machine to edit the evox.m8plus.v16.fc.137.bin. If someone can tell me how to edit it on a Mac I'm also can also change it myself. Thanks for your help. Regards Nikolaj

I saw on reddit that they recommended a Taiyo yuden or Nichicon 1F 2.5V, but it seems these are now out of production.

As in the title, my xbox is TSOP'ed and splited with a switch for dualboot.

I have two Toshiba/Samsung drives that have bad lasers, I can only seem to find replacement lasers for Thomson drives available to buy online. Is there anywhere that sells lasers for the T/S drives, or are there lasers from other products that might be compatible? I saw someone online who replaced a Playstation 2 laser with one from a music CD player and it worked, not sure if something like that can be done with the Xbox drives?

Listing of materials tested: OSSC V1.6 Chimeric HDMI Konig component Full RGB AV+optical Composite original Pound (2020) Mcable gaming Mclassic Monster component x400 Monster component x200 Variety of wall chargers and HDMI cables All the combinations and configurations had tested. Tested with 4 TV and two Xbox : V 1.6 no modded, V1.0 XBMC ( when it was possible, but no one did consequential differences ) Winner! Xbox+Chimeric+Mclassic (green led (alimented wall)) +Mcable gaming (alimented wall). Explanation The monster component x400 was a little better than konig component, and the monster x200 was like composite because the three plugs are video x1 and stereo x2. Not three RGB like I had thinking. Next, I tested all settings of the OSSC expecting upgrade my video with a HDMI solution. The picture was worst than the monster. With the good material, perhaps it's possible. But the OSSC loose always a part of the signal, event it is alimented. The pound (with mini usb port) was very poor. Yes, it's very better than composite but: Green filter. Not very sharp etc. But it's wasn't a problem because I had bet all on the Chimeric. Finaly, I recived the chimeric, and horror, the monster component smashes far more once again , with is colors very realistic and the picture very compatible with the signal source. I pluged the Mcable and the Mclassic, but this changed nothing. I thinking pass all my life with monster x400. There was some additionnal issues like horizontal lines "flapping" or noise in the textures. After to have expected an issus of fabrication, I Shipped an message to Chimeric system. Before to receive a response, I had set up the stuff again, and this is it! It work fine. Mclassic was alimented in the pc port, but we need to put it in the wall. We need to find the perfect Tv setting too because the signal is different of any sources. So the best mode need to be (desatured with wider spectrum. All spectrum of light and colors). Now it is better than the monster component. And better than the chimeric only. The stuff do all that it must to do. But, after that, I upgraded the output video another time with an astuce. I bought some different wall charger more powerful and the video become consequently much higher. Now with the good wall charger. It's a masterpiece. How setting this Winning combination. Xbox dashboard- Audio : Use Stereo if you have 2 speakers (or stereo+DTS). Souround + dolby for 5 speakers. Mclassic: Mode green. Alimented by a wall charger 5v- 1.8 A. Little bit hight or less. Mcable Gaming: Alimented by a wall charger 5v -2.4 A Tv(Flat): Here my setting for exemple : Contraste 100, Brillance 63, Couleur 50, Netteté 100, image-ia EF, cats HF, reduc HF If the TV has more pixels than the video source, zoomed in will not do appear new details in the pictures, but increase the sharpenes and clarity of theirs . See picture 1-2. A higher format TV will provide more sharpeness and natural with this set up. But it's the inverse result with a cheap ultra-HD tv. Picture 3-4. The winnig TV was : 1080p Panasonic TC-L32U3. Second place : Panasonic TC-L32X5. The two other TV ultra Hd (were very bad) : LG 47LN5750-UH and SAMSUNG UN50TU7000F The V1.6 xbox, with Panasonic tv and Chimeric, added vertical shadow lines with halo 2 and halo 1 on the sky and on the pale background textures. But nothing else. It run perfectly since 2004. The V1.0 XBOX XBMC added horizontal artefacts with all the games and emulators. But don't has the precedent problem with the shadow lines. His cd drive works poorly. The second best set up was : Pound alimented wall (with the same settings and stuff) . Only switch the chimeric by the Pound. For exemple, the set up with Chimeric seem that. The monster component x400 do the best picture and sound for easy and low budget. And the colors are more natural than the Pound. Konig: AV component RGB+optical in one. Show details clear. Dont't blur. But did a video quality inferior than Monster x400. The V1.6 OSSC : With all the settings, in x1 and x2 too, and with two TV, did the signal and the colors loose their intensity. The picture was pale and bleach. And in X1, there was no global difference compared good component (except the previews problems). In x2, the game was pixelised like 2D 1987 games, without degrad. He was made for keep the squarred pixels of old console. He was not made for the Xbox or consoles 480p or more. Audio problems : Not make to transfer the best audio possible because he can not out put the audio by HDMI. To plug somewhere, it need an extra connector because the input is a jack 1/8. and that cause a losing of signal. He is not do for the Xbox or console 480p or more. Good Generique HDMI cable: Make the stone texture more natural than the mcable gaming, but was less good for the shiny-lustred surfaces and did the picture more pixelised. The mcable gaming did the surfaces that was clear or polish (like water, electricity, and metal) more realistic and upgraded. Halo2 has textures 3d-like based on the details of mapping. So, when I added extra signal boost with the wall chargers, and used the mcable gaming, it was like if new textures was appears. Chimeric: Added red filter with the TC-L32U3 TV, and perhaps very little with the samsung TV . He did thin shaded lines in the bleach textures of Halo2 with the V1.6 xbox. Pound: Added green filter impossible to remove completly. Plus has the same issu than the chimeric (horizontal shaded lines) but this lines were only with halo 2 on the panasonic TC-L32U3 and the xbox V1.6) Mclassic : Works with all. TV Cartoon too. Need wall charger of 1.8 A (approximately). The two modes don't affect the defenition. Only the resolution. Audio Souround 5.1=5 speakers . Stereo=two speakers. That mean that dolby souround on XBOX is useless if you don't have the stuff. Note that the sound was really better with a good component than with the composite. But, I noticed no audio differences between monster and this winning set up. My external stereo speakers cleared the sound compared to my internal tv speakers. If you want speakers, you need receiveur Yamaha. Speakers only don't work. If you want for gaming, select the speakers with a natural sound, and did for classic-JAZZ musics. Games need hight frequency sound ( metalic, robots, cars crash, bullet impacts, shield, bird cry, wind, radio, snap-crunch). And take speakers that have not box shape, to have realistic sound. I am using a Yamaha receiver R-s300 with two small Paradigm that have a rounded plastic shape. Finaly, the https://makemhz.com/ seems to be better than the chimeric. So I will change the chimeric for it and keep all the settings and materials in this set up. Thanks SS_Dave for help.

I can't see it on Evox trainers list.. Basically I need to overcome a certain bug of the game that doesn't make you gain further skill points once you reach the top grade in career mode (not looking for a complete savegame or other cheats, just something that unlocks the stats).

Hello from the Yorkshire Dales. As many others have discovered, James Bond: Everything or Nothing won't run when ripped from disc to HDD without some sort of patch. I've found tantalising mention of this patch in a few different places, but all the links are years old and dead. Can anyone please point me in the right direction? And if you could tell me exactly how to install it when I've got it, as if I'm a complete idiot and don't know anything, that would be super helpful too. Many thanks!

Hi i have a Xbox 1.0 with a corrupt bios and i discovered that the TSOP mod wasn’t done before i flashed it and ended up corrupting the bios. I tried the 3 wire trick and that didn’t work and can’t seem to find any bios reflash settings on the Open Xenium mod chip. So that really only leaves me with flashing a new chip and soldering it in. Is that the only option i have?

I have an old Xbox that has an Xecuter 2 chip installed, it still has the stock HDD so i'd like to upgrade it to a 500GB SATA. Weirdly I cannot physically see any chip soldered to the board, I can see some yellow wires going out the front of the console so i'm not sure if this is where the chip is located? (see pic). In any case I have downloaded the HeXen 2018 installation disc, and I have the necessary parts required to convert from IDE to SATA. Is this disc capable of setting up a HDD with this chip? I took a couple of pics showing my kernel and the fact my current HDD is locked:

You've all be great in helping me get my two Xbox's to be awesome, I've got them both to a point I consider them perfect, my last little gripe is the time, they boot up thinking it's 2007. I've noticed the Xbox has a time server function where it can automatically connect to internet time servers and update the time with UnleashX and also XBMC, however every time server address I put in there doesn't work, even though the time servers do work on windows. Is there a time server anyone has found that actually works on the Xbox? I remember years ago I used to use this function and it used to work fine. If I can sort this out it's the last peace of the puzzle to Xbox perfection for me.

Greetings from Japan, wonderful people of this wonderful forum! I have been a long time lurker and and even longer time dreamer (to have a OG Xbox). As you might know here in Japan Original Xboxes are rare and come pretty expensive (50 to 120usd depending on the conditions). Anyway I recently bit the bullet and for 4500jpy(40usd) got my hands on a semitransparent black limited edition with controllers HD converters and original cables, all in very good conditions (externally). DVD is finicky but after few shots works. MB should be a 1.0 according to serial number. The seal is still intact which makes me believe nobody has been in there. I got a copy of splinter cell, ordered usb port and ide-to-sata interface, ide cables. I am studying now right usb stick while I was looking my chances for a softmod and maybe an HDD upgrade (I have many laying around). I read discussions in which members say "chip or death" but I am noob with solder - I fix almost everything all the time so I do not know if it is a bit of a complex, Japanese humility or just I am still a noob for real. Let's just say I am not confident enough to try TSOP or modchips on this beauty while just remove the clock capacitor is something I would feel totally ok doing. Looking around for component I stumbled upon this seller online that offers what stated in the title: a modded xbox 128mb ram, 2tb, fanless heatsink, softmodded for 200usd. I mean just the components are about 150usd. The guy clearly loves xbox. The fan-less heat-sink and the lack of a modchip are the only two things that really make me go like "nani?" especially the heat sink so I decided to ask here... I know that later models did not have one but is it safe? also how it is the price? should I just drop it and buy this one or should I softmod it by myself? In case can I swap the "shell" with the one I have or depends on the MB series? Thank you for reading this huge thing. edit: also can you suggest me a reliable and noob friendly step by step guide to softmod?

I've recently softmodded my xbox and came across this problem on 2 games so far out of 20 that i've tried, one being gta san andreas which i put on the HDD through ftp with the fix found on this forum to get it to properly launch as well as deus ex invisible war which i played off the disc https://imgur.com/vGzh0TE I have no idea what could be causing it as it's only been happening to 2 games so far, any help would be appreciated fixing this

So, I'm an old man and I can't remember how I flashed this XBox years ago. I have an Aladdin XT Plus2 with Evox +3935 and M8plus_16 fan 40.06 (not sure what size bios that is). I wrote a 2TB image to a drive and get an error telling me to upgrade to LBA48 ver 2. Can someone point me in the right direction. I do have FTP access to the box.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XFT1TPJ/?coliid=I34W0053FX96LE&colid=3BP1APT3T9SB8&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

hey all, Building a cocktail arcade cabinet, which requires the display to be mounted vertically instead of the typical horizontal orientation. The TV display we are using doesn't have the ability to do it within its menu. I've seen an option to do so on non Xbox arcade cabinets (and it actually flipped 180degrees for 2 player games as well) , i was wondering if anyone knew how to do it with a modded xbox, either natively within UnleashX or XBMC-emustation or XBMC4Gamers....or another way. CoinOps has limited capability to do so with certain games, but it also inverts controls when doing so. Any help or guidance you have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

hello my friends i have an xbox 1.0 and i want to install modchip for what is best one for it and also mine works with 100.125 ac and i want to change it to 200.245 ac because iam living in kuwait how i can change that and can i change hetsink fan and use thermal grizzly thermal paste

Hello, I am currently getting ready to upgrade my xbox HDD to a 2tb one. My question is how much space should I give to each partition? Realistically I'm going to fill this thing up with most of the emulators I can run on the xbox while being able to fit as many original xbox games on it as well. How have some of you done this? Thanks I'm not sure I'd be putting a playstation emulator/games on here because I'm not sure if the compatibility has improved on that front. Whats the latest on playstation emulation?

have some weird Power issues, researched previous posts but didn't want to hijack their threads and not sure if they were the same situation anyway. Here's the current situation: Bought console off ebay with acknowledgement that power button did not work and that it powered on by simply plugging in or hitting the eject button...(sounds like classic trace rot). Clock cap was removed by seller and area cleaned, he also replaced thermal paste on CPU/GPU and verified that the console worked and played games. I have not verified trace damage extent yet but he said there was a little. The console appears to have other things going on other than trace rot and I wanted to see if there was something else I could test on the top of the mb based on the below current working status before I get to trace rot stuff. When I got it, after a couple of power cycles where it remained powered on plugging it in, it now no longer powers on simply by plugging in, instead it only does by hitting eject button, and when that occurs it only stays powered on for about a second. Stby voltage checks good at 3.3V and POWON just gets to 3.3V before it powers off. POWOK doesn't fully spool up. When DVD removed and only HD power still attached (or even if HD removed), it powers on via eject button for 6 seconds and provides the following readings: Eject button triggers POWON voltage at 3.3V for 6 seconds. POWOK registers at 3.3V as well until it cuts off. Even if button remains held down, voltage drops off on both at 6 seconds and it powers down All other voltages read correct during the 6 sec power on except the yellow which comes in at 11.8vdc Eject button LED comes on and flashes red. If DVD plugged in, when eject button pressed DVD is ejected and retracts before powering down No obvious Cap leakages/bulges discovered. Any ideas? Thank you!

Hello All, I finally got my Xecuter 3 CE working! I had to swap to a whole new console since the video out died on the old one. Somewhere in the troubleshooting of the old console the bios seems to have been wiped from the Xecuter 3 CE. Currently I am succesful getting it to boot to FlashBIOS 3.0.1, but don't have a file to load there. I've been googling, but most of the old download links are broken. What is the latest version Xecuter Bios that I am looking for? Anyone have please? Should I load it on both 1MB banks so this doesn't happen again? I've been out of the scene 10+ years, so I welcome any advice. Thank you!

Hi all, As a fun educational exercise to wanted to replace the CPLD logic on the cheap AladdinXT 4032 Original Xbox modchip and convert it to a basic LCD driver, consequently it looses the ability to load a custom bios. I consider this to be something like the old X-addons generic LCD-display mods (but a fair bit simpler) The Lattice LC4032V CPLD on the cheap Alladin modchips is extremely limited, so this is a hacky bare minimum to reduce macro-cell usage to fit onto the CPLD. Therefore it can't really support any extra functionality over the bare minimum. It doesn't support backlight control (just full brightness always) It has some very basic contrast PWM control through the dashboard settings. Anyway just wanted to share what I came up with https://github.com/Ryzee119/AladdinLCD Ideally, you could design a small PCB (and maybe use a larger CPLD) to improve the installation. that is something I may do in the future

I grew up playing FPS on the PC, so it never felt natural playing them with analog controllers. I recently bought a used XIM4 and for me it makes a HUGE difference in gameplay, it actually feels like the games were designed from the ground up to be played with a Keyboard/mouse combination, minus the console button hints on the screen I also have an original XBOX and a PS2, so I'm trying to find used SmartJoy Frags for each of them. I know it won't be as good as the XIM, but I'm willing to try them anyway, as I'm intent on playing all HALO games, and I want to start with HALO 1 and 2, then eventually jump to the X360's Halo 3, ODST, Reach and 4. Every SmartJoy Frag I found for sale so far didn't include any of the original content: the Quick Start Guide manual, the Game Presets Table manual and the quick reference card. I did found an external forum topic from 2011 which included pictures of the complete packages for both XBOX and PS2, which I attached to this post Does anyone have any of these manuals, and is there any possibility of scanning them for Internet posterity and future reference?