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Found 16 results

  1. Greetings all! First time posting anything but have gathered a lot of great tips and fixes from this forum for a few years now. This problem has me stumped though. Here’s the situation: The xbox boots fine to the ms dash. I can access the hdd, copy saves to memory unit (or usb via adapter), browse settings, etc. The eject button on the dvd player just flashes green. There’s no disc in the drive, it doesn’t make any horrible noises, it won’t open, and there’s nothing impeding it from opening. I took it apart, removed a lot of dust et al, cleaned the laser, checked to see that the manual eject via the release button worked, double checked the tray side rails, etc. Everything looked normal. Reassembled and had the same problem listed above. I put in a known good drive and that remedied the non stop green light flashing so I thought I’d figured out the issue. I go to test a disc and the known good drive starts to not eject or close intermittently. Additionally it won’t do anything with the disc. If I put a few known good and un scratched games it the drive just flashes green forever. It never gives a dirty disc type error or anything and again this is a drive I know works (tested it right before I pulled it out and put it for test in the current Xbox). I’m stumped. I thought about changing out power and ide just to see. Swapped out two known good AV cables just for grins. No effect. Nothing on the MB looks bulging and I can’t see and trace rot,etc on the top at least. Any ideas? Thank you, MaGee
  2. I've been having this same issue with several SSDs on this v1.6 but not with any HDD I've tried. When I boot the Xbox, the Microsoft logo appears and then it black screens until I press the eject button, then it will load the dashboard. I can tell the dashboard isn't loading at all until eject is pressed since the front LEDs don't change color (they're set to orange). I've tested with 2 SSDs of different models (both from TeamGroup), 2 Startech adapters, and 2 UATA cables with the same results. The console boots fine with video when I start it up with just a stock dashboard on the C partition. Things I've tried to resolve this: - Starting with a stock dashboard on C, copying Rocky5's XBHDM installer on there, and softmodding that way (black screens on first boot without even installing the softmod) - Directly copying the C and E partitions from a working softmodded HDD - Using the Phoenix BIOS Loader and Cerbios - Switching video mode between normal, widescreen, letterbox - Disabling 480p/720p/1080i - Switching video region between PAL and NTSC - Using both component and composite cables - Using several different disc drives I'm running out of ideas, this issue seems pretty weird to me since the same files work on an HDD and the SSD loads a dashboard just fine after the eject/soft-reboot. If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears.
  3. Due to some modification that previous owner made, when I turn on the Xbox it's working fine, but the circle is red,but there is no error at all. Its really annoying, I would like to change it back to the original green. Also, when I boot up the xbox the Xbox logo is blue instead of green. I would like to restore this too. Do I have to flash a new bios, or it can be done by only modifying a couple files? Before I reformated the HDD on the title screen there was a "Slayers 2.7" text, so I guess they made all this with that, I mean I dont know what is this Slayers stuff, but it maybe have to do with something with this case.
  4. Hi This forum is great but i've exhuasted searching for a solution to my problem. What I would like to do is be able to boot two bios. One with the power button to launch XBMC4Gamers and one with the eject button to launch XBMC-Emustation. I've been away from the xbox mod scene for about a decade until recently but from what I understand I should be able to do this with my new aladdin mod chip. My xbox is a 1.6 so i've had to rebuild the LPC. I have modified two M8 16 bios .bin files - One 512k bios to boot to XBMC4Gamers and one 256k bios to boot to XBMC-Emustation (both 480p bios, I have Wii2HDMI internal mod) Flashed the bios files to their appropriate banks on my Aladdin XT Changed the settings from within XblastOS to allow quickboot - power button 512k bios, eject button 256k bios Regardless of what settings I change my xbox will only ever boot the 256k bios and launch XBMC4Gamers. However if i flash bank1 (256k) with the XblastOS bios the settings then it will work and I can choose which bios to boot (either XblastOS or whichever bios i have flashed to the 512k bank). I have tried to flash bank2 (OS) on the modchip with the XblastOS bios but it made no difference. Im thinking perhaps it is a problem with my soldering but i've checked my connections for continuity and they all seem fine. I have also earthed the d0 to the ground screw but the picture below was taken before I made that connection. Hopefully ive explained that okay. Its not a major issue because I can use the xbox as it is but I would like the option to boot into two dashboards, with the touch of a button, if possible. tia
  5. I recently bought a few faulty Xboxes yesterday and I want to try sort out this 1.1 which FRAGs. When I press eject it will often not open the disc tray, sometimes it will open quarter or half way or not close when it does open. I've tried 3 disc drives and they all have the same issue indicating a motherboard or possibly daughterboard problem. I have removed the clock capacitor which was only starting to leak. I've cleaned up what little leakage there was. Any ideas?
  6. Hello, Got a v1.1 Xbox today that i wanted to TSOP flash, but it has some issues, before doing anything the console was tested. The hard drive is making some loud whirring sound, but it manages to boot to dash, this will be replaced with a bigger drive. The DVD ROM was locked solid, so after opening the console and the DVD ROM, and giving it a good clean, that is now working again. But when i tested the DVD to see if it ejects, which it does, every eject press the console now appears to soft reboot, i mean it restarts but doesn't power cycle. Anyways i soldered the points on the mobo, and continued to flash which was successful, but the problem still remains with the eject. The console hadn't been opened before today, as far as i remember it didn't reboot on eject when i 1st turned it on to test and was trying to eject the tray. Have tried an alternate power/eject board but no change, also the console boots with no DVD drive connected also with no change, so i am out of ideas. Has anyone experienced this, or know of a fix ? any help is appreciated.
  7. Hi Friends, I'm here to ask your help again. My friend ask me to repair his xbox. When I opened it I seen the following. Xbox 1.6 with an MSI DVD/DVD RW drive. The dvd drive was soldered to the eject button's board. I do not know this type of DVD MOD cause I always use LG 8163B drive. So the plan was the following. Soldering in an Aladdin XT modchip and change this unknown DVD mod to other --> LG 8163B (it was tested in some other xboxes and worked well) and change the HDD to a bigger one. Okay, chip soldered in, works well. DVD drive changed to 8163B, and here is my problem, the eject button won't work. I can open the DVD tray only with the eject button of the 8163B. I not tested the eject button before the changes. I checked the traces on the motherborad with multimeter, everythings fine. I checked the Poweron/Eject board, there is no problem with it. So, if someone has any idea what I have to try to fix it, that would be great. Thank you in advance.
  8. Greetings everyone. Here's the situation: both my xboxes' dvd drives died. One is a thomson which receives power,but won't read the disks; then there's the philips one which doesn't even get recognized. I have one of those lg drives for pc that can be adapted to work as a new xbox dvd drive, but i miss the yellow power cable to attach it to the mobo. So my idea was to get it from the power/eject buttons. Does anybody have already attempted this and some tips?Is it even possible?(i cannot get ahold of a newcable for experimenting for cheap,so imstuck with this). My idea was to build like a couple of buttons to short the pins on the connectors on the motherboard in order to prompt the power/eject switches(don'tcare about leds, i only care of a good functioning xbox). Thanks in advance.
  9. My XBOX turns on and works but the green light around the eject button does not come on. The system is a 1.0 version and has been successfully Tsoped. A red light comes on around the eject button when booting with the Helen 2017 disk, but I don’t ever get a green light under normal operation. Any idea what would cause this or how I can fix it? Thanks.
  10. it's a v1.4 hard modded xbox. i had sonic heroes on pause for several hours while i watched tv and did other things(in other words, i was not watching the xbox screen to see if it shot an error code or something). i have the xbox sitting behind my tv so i don't see everything that it does. i looked behind the tv and a saw the the eject led had turned yellow. i shut the xbox off immediately because i feared it was overheating so i didn't look on the tv to see if it was displaying an error code. anyway, what causes the yellow led? btw, it was a solid yellow led, not flashing.
  11. I have an xbox 1.4 I just TSOPed. For some reason the press the power button and nothing happens but if I press the eject button it turns On and Off. If I press it 5x it will stay On. I swapped power/eject boards but same issues. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
  12. Hard drive activity on the eject button led. To do that mod you don’t need an LED since we make use of the LED on the eject botton which give us a nice and clean look. Each time the hard drive read or write data, the orange (or “amber” if you prefer) led lights up and that will make you happy (Note: This just works for a man, not woman!). So what do we need: Wire. 30 AWG works for me. 10K resistor. Small piece heat shrink. Solder, Iron, Flux, IPA. Super duper glue or your hot glue gun. Optional : A beer a cup of coffee or tee. At this time you can choose the last time by your self until the tutorial is done! Ok, lets start by tear down your x-box like you normaly do and put the mainboard with the bottom side up in front you. The back ports should be facing upwards. When you have an v1.0 to v1.4 you should search for the resistor R3V2 (The v1.5 unicorne should have it one the same place, I guess). For v1.6 or v1.6b search for the resistor R3V3. (Yap, they are both on the same spot and do the same but M$ choose to lable those differently.) So when you have found the resistor, solder one end of the wire to the left side of the resistor. Now that this is done aim for the IDE connector. Measure how much wire you need to get to the IDE pin shown in the Picture (Don`t forget the length of your resistor.). It’s the first pin on the left side on top of the connector. Now solder your 10K resitor to the other end of the wire and put some heat shrink on it. Last but not least solder the end of the resitor to the IDE pin. Now it’ s time to put back together your x-box and test your new mod, of which, you can be unbelievably proud of– in case you didn't screw it up somewhere… like me on the 1.6 because I wasn’t aware that MS choose to lable the resistors wrong (remember?). But thats there fault and not mine so let us blame them for that! Still reading? Why? You have reached the end of, what ever you wanna call it, and can now make your own decisions again! (Except you have a wife/girlfriend, then you’re totally screwed cuz it’s on her to make decisions for you!). For real. I hope you had fun with this and you enjoy your new little mod. I’m out. PS. You found typos or i miss spelled something? See, you got that on top without a tip!
  13. Hi The other day I grabbed my console from my loft, it's a 1.1 with a Samsung Drive, fitted with an X2 chip from back in the day. Before switching it on I had it apart and removed the clock cap, I cleaned up the area and couldn't see damage apart from to one of the unused VIAs under the cap (it looks like it's designed to allow a different sized cap in this spot right?). I did a visual inspection of the other caps and couldn't see any bulges or obvious leaks. I don't know which version BIOS is on the X2, looking around the HDD it's likely 5031 or 5035, and it's got an EvoX dash on it, I found a Slayers 2.7 disc so I'm guessing I used this. Now the actual problem! The tray keeps ejecting whilst I'm sat on the dash. It ejects, I close it and the dash reports INIT in the disc status, i hear it trying to read and then it gives up and ejects again, then goes around in a loop. I had to goto work then, so switched it all off and left it. Returned from work later and try again. This time whilst it was doing the eject, init, eject ini loop I was searching for solutions and trying it with the X2 disabled and enabled. Finally the tray stays shut. I launch a game off of the HDD and it's fine. Booted my Slayers disc and it was fine. Search results were saying that Samsung have tray getting stuck issues normally. Check for things obstructing in the drive and give it a grease. Other results were saying that the clock cap could have caused some damage that relates to this (but that also depends on mobo version). I'm leaving it off again now, to see if it misbehaves after cooling down again (which is what happened earlier), and then I'll be pulling it apart again to have another look. I'm a bit gutted that I ordered a bunch of Cap Kits from Console5 last week for other machines but wasn't thinking about the old xbox at the time. Ordering just the xbox kit will cost more in shipping (to the UK) than the caps and be slow at the moment. I'll have to look for a UK supplier or stop being lazy and buy the individual caps! Can anyone advise on what is most likely out of the causes I mention, or even if there's more things to look at ta Pete
  14. Hi, One of my console with a v1.4 motherboard (it have a golden clock capacitor that I don’t have removed) suddenly didn’t work. It worked fine but now It have a solid Green light (no frag) with no eject dvd drive, no video and no sound. I’ve tried with 2 différent AV câbles that works fine on my others consoles. Is someone have any issue please ? This console have never been hardmodded, only softmodded.
  15. my eject and power button led's will not power on ive tried many panels and still nothing they both work and my xbox is tsop flashed and its a version 1.0..
  16. Custom Red LED controller Ports with matching Red LED Power/Eject Board. Comes with lifetime warranty. If one ever fails I will replace it for free minus the shipping cost. These are very bright and match 100% although the picture kinda takes away from how deep red these really are. $24.99 Shipped anywhere in the lower 48. Can ship worldwide. Other colors available: Blue, Green, White, Purple, Orange, Red Any questions, simply shoot me a message! Thanks guys!

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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