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have some weird Power issues, researched previous posts but didn't want to hijack their threads and not sure if they were the same situation anyway. Here's the current situation: Bought console off ebay with acknowledgement that power button did not work and that it powered on by simply plugging in or hitting the eject button...(sounds like classic trace rot). Clock cap was removed by seller and area cleaned, he also replaced thermal paste on CPU/GPU and verified that the console worked and played games. I have not verified trace damage extent yet but he said there was a little. The console appears to have other things going on other than trace rot and I wanted to see if there was something else I could test on the top of the mb based on the below current working status before I get to trace rot stuff. When I got it, after a couple of power cycles where it remained powered on plugging it in, it now no longer powers on simply by plugging in, instead it only does by hitting eject button, and when that occurs it only stays powered on for about a second. Stby voltage checks good at 3.3V and POWON just gets to 3.3V before it powers off. POWOK doesn't fully spool up. When DVD removed and only HD power still attached (or even if HD removed), it powers on via eject button for 6 seconds and provides the following readings: Eject button triggers POWON voltage at 3.3V for 6 seconds. POWOK registers at 3.3V as well until it cuts off. Even if button remains held down, voltage drops off on both at 6 seconds and it powers down All other voltages read correct during the 6 sec power on except the yellow which comes in at 11.8vdc Eject button LED comes on and flashes red. If DVD plugged in, when eject button pressed DVD is ejected and retracts before powering down No obvious Cap leakages/bulges discovered. Any ideas? Thank you!

I wonder if it's a RAM compatibility issue or indicating definitely damaged RAM IC? Does anyone know the max temp the RAM ICs are rated for? I am working with a 1.4 revision board and an OpenXenium which should be booting straight to XBlast. I haven't seen much info anywhere about a solid green LED in the process of a RAM upgrade. However when I've got a chip installed it power cycles twice then goes to solid green LED but no video and the OpenXenium LED is yellow whereas if XBlast were to have booted the OpenXenium LED would be green. The board has default K4D263238D-QC50 and I have tested adding K4D263238M-QC50 (salvaged from a 1.0 revision board) and K4D263238F-QC50 (bought new on eBay but I used them). No additional RAM boots and works fine. Does the yellow LED on the OpenXenium indicate anything useful? What about the solid green LED on the console? Thanks

Hey all. Sorry if this has been posted, but I searched and couldn't really find anything. I have a 1.0 Xbox that was handed to me by a friend. He said he couldn't remember much about it, but that him and his kid tried to mod it a long time ago, and now it isn't working. Upon opening it, I found a pin header, no modchip, tsop points soldered, and the underside D0 pad ripped off. When I try to start the xbox, it cycles power 3 times then frags out. I'm assuming this is due mainly to the ripped D0 trace. I've tried repairing the trace, and bridging the two pads connected by the green line, but I can't seem to get the solder to stick. Is there any other way to repair this, or is this the only way? Relatively new to xbox modding so any tips would be appreciated. Thank you!

Having issues booting after an OpenXenium install on a 1.6 (using pcb). When power button is pressed, front light turns immediately from green to orange flashing, fails to power, then reboots and tries to power again with orange flashing light, then does it a third time. After the unsuccessful third try, it just completely cuts power and that's it. No flashing message, nothing at this point. Never able to get video either. Does the same thing regardless of whether drives are plugged in or not. While its trying to power on, I can see a solid red light on the chip, so I know its getting power. First time doing an Xbox mod, so hopefully this is just an issue of me being a noob. Board, power, and cables were all working before the mod. Solder points for the chip have been reflowed a couple times. I have also checked for possible solder splash, but there does not appear to be any that I can see. Traces also appear fine to me- no obvious burns or tears. Caps also appear good. Anything I miss? Maybe I need to re-check something more thoroughly? Mostly wondering what the 3x power cycle, orange light, no boot means.

As we know, v1.2-1.4 Xboxes don't have an easily-accessible LFRAME# signal, so modchips work on the assumption that the southbridge will never abort a cycle early by asserting LFRAME# and driving 0b1111 onto LAD[3:0]. That may be true for memory read cycles, but what about memory writes and I/O read/write cycles? Besides a timeout (which shouldn't happen anyway if long wait states are used), is there ever a case where the MCPX might abort an LPC cycle? EDIT: I may have posted this in the wrong section. I need this info for a hardware mod, but it might be better suited in the Modchip or General forum. Sorry about that.