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I picked up one of the Vader Intec controllers at a flea market the other day for $5. The tag said "untested" and I figured that it probably had issues. When I got home and plugged it in the lights on the pcb lit up like they were supposed to and the vibration switch would make the controller rumble (I'm not sure if its only supposed to rumble when things happen in the game but this was rumbling constantly when I flipped the switch) but none of the other buttons would work at all. The only thing any of them did was when I pushed the right trigger in the lights in the controller would dim a bit. Since it has a programming button I don't know if it just needs to be reset somehow or if it is actually damaged. Does anyone have any experience with these things and might have an idea on what the problem might be?

Ive had a good sort out, I have 3 working tsop'd boards f/s, a 1.0 (with gpu fan and controller daughterboard), the other 2 are 1.2 and 1.4 (i think!), all have cerbios flashed to them, £25 ea plus post ppg. Other bits available on request, got 5 decent green jewels, loads of fans, case screws, controller ports, drive cables, front power boards, unlocked stock hard drives, basically anything from the original xbox apart from anything dvd drive or casing related (i do have a couple of plastic bases tho). also have a 1.6 board that has an Aladdin chip fitted, works fine but cant ftp to it for some reason

selling my skeleton black console with controller and original box, looking for $500 cad obo for it its been cleaned and clock cap has been removed. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/296589064582 for pictures

I have a few of these LED pcbs for the OG Xbox controller ports. I am trying to locate a tutorial on how to install these, but I cant find one. Can anyone please point me in the right direction.

I recently got an xbox and had to replace the capacitors and remove the clock capacitor. Before this the console would flash orange led. There was minimal damage done by the clock capacitor. After replacing the xbox would turn on and i would move passed setting the clock. I tested a game and it was going well until i got a reconnect controller screen. I was unable to move passed the screen so I restarted. When it rebooted the controller was unresponsive. I disassembled the xbox and checked the daughter board that the ports are connected to. Cleaned it and reinstalled it. Booted up and the controller worked again. I moved past the clock screen and again controller life disappeared…. I can only get the controller to work after i reseat the daughter board and the power completely discharged from the board… What do you think the problem can be? I have tested multiple. OEM controllers, on three different working xboxes. None other have daughter boards so i cant swap to test atm.

Hi, Does somebody have advise on the best and cheapest way to restore these controllers ? If joysticks needs replacement, which joysticks is the best ? ( also knobs ) Also L/R trigger potentiometers. can those be cleaned or do you need to replace them ? thanks a ton !

OGX360 - Wireless/Wired Controller Adapter - 1-4 Player Normal OGX360 1 Player £43 posted Normal OGX360 2 Player £50 posted Normal OGX360 4 Player £60 posted Minny OGX360 1 Player £43 posted OGX360 - Wireless Controller Adapter for Original Xbox 1-4 Player Come with the 1/2/4 xbox to usb cable and a 3d printed case 1Player It works best with the red brick 8Bitdo It come with a case You will need a 8 bitdo for it to work 8 bitdo are a an xbox 360 wireless receiver to run 4 players not included can Supports 4 players with Genuine and Third Party Microsoft Xbox 360 Wireless Receivers on the Xbox 360 Controllers. all the files are Available to build one you're self thanks to ryzee19

https://cyrix.ca/n-comm-w-modern-controller-on-ogxbox Went through the effort of testing this out as I know there are plenty of people wanting to play on Insignia, want to use a modern controller, but also want to be able to use in-game chat. This setup works and should give people a guide on how to get their own setup going.

Hi Everyone, i'm currently offering these replacement cables in an effort to bring back to life as many original xbox Microsoft branded controllers as possible! This cable includes a 5 pin connector so it has all of the data lines that the xbox cable uses. It's a simple replacement, just de-solder the existent pin connector, and put this in it's place. This is a full length cord, includes the breakaway, ferrite cores, strain relief etc. It can also be used as a replacement on most (maybe all) of the cheap aftermarket controllers if you want to be able to use sit further from your monitor/TV. The new connector inserts vertically, the old one lays on it's side, this has no effect on the shell. There is one other difference i will point out for complete transparency. The original xbox controller uses 5 data lines, and has 1 chunky stranded line of shielding that is soldered as a 6th pin. These do not have that 6th pin. For comparison, the cheap aftermarket controllers use 4 pins in their wiring (missing the yellow wire), have no breakaway cable, and are only 5-6 feet in length. These ship from the US, and currently listed at $5.99 per cable. I do have a shopify store for easy payment options, but will not link that here until i have permission to do so. If you are interested, please drop a comment and feel free to PM me. Bulk rates are an option, just have to figure out the best method of shipping whatever qty it is you may be interested in.

As the title says. I have a console that sometime experiences a random power down. I have left the console running for ages on its own and the power down has not happened, then I have been just flicking around in PrometheOS or XBMC4Gamers for a few moments and the console has shut down. This console has been recapped and has no issues booting up at all. However the controller I have been using has a split in the cable right at the top where it joins the cable relief before going into the controller itself. Could this cause a short that causes the console to power down. I am running Cerbios which has a button combo to power down the console and wondered if it could this that is triggering. Pic of cable split for reference... If its not this what else could it be?? I'm stumped lol EDIT - So I have narrowed it down. Its nothing to do with the controller, it only seems to happen with in either the PrometheOS dash OR XBMC4Gamers. It can happen in seconds or it can happen after 15 mins, its totally random. As a test I left the console running with a game playing for 2 hours and no power down. Leaving it on either dash will eventually power down. I have checked and XBMC shutdown timer is OFF.

First of all... I absolutely love this site & community. You all rock. Period. Grab some popcorn, this is the fist 'official' time I'm telling the "brief" version... So my name's Toby Dziubala and I was the most junior member of the very original handful of people who were on the "Xbox Advanced Technology Group" or "ATG" group. Through a series of wild twists of fate, I was hired sometime in late 1999, when it was only about maybe 10 of us. I worked directly for Seamus Blackley, who interviewed me, and I was working shoulder-to-shoulder with Drew Angeloff. My first responsibility was to coordinate with the MS Hardware fabricators, external "interns" that were writing demos for us, and Nvidia who was producing us experimental graphics cards -- in order to produce what you guys know as the "Prototypes" or "Silver X's". So basically, when BillG and Seamus climbed on stage at GDC in March of 2000 to officially announce our existence, and it didn't go perfectly... it would have been *my* ass, and we wouldn't be having this story time right now LOL. If you heard stories about the prototypes being tossed down stairwells and such, well that was me. Now you're probably asking yourselves, "who is this dude and how come there isn't a mention of him in the book?"... well, simply put, really s**tty politics. I'll explain: I was actually hired about 8 months or so before into a product called "Commerce Server" (Bldg 25) as a newbie SDE/T through "Volt" (I was an "A Dash"). Just prior to my arrival, Microsoft had lost a huge court case over benefits and hours to their contractors. I had no part in all of that obviously, but it was such a cultural blow to the company that to this day you'll most likely still pick up on a vibe of animosity towards contractors. Back then it was, palpable. So when Dean Takahashi (sp?) was making his rounds around the office gathering materials for the "Opening The Xbox", he was specifically instructed not to talk to me or include me in any way. On record, Seamus totally went to bat for me, but "they" wouldn't have it. There was no way in hell some contractor puke was going to receive any positive publicity in light of the loss of the lawsuit , and moreover, the massive blow-to-the-corporate-ego that came with it. I've actually got some really cool stories about that time, so I'm working on putting together a little "addendum" to the story that I'll probably put out in some kind of e-book format. My fiancé has been busing my chops for the last couple years to "tell my part of the story", so I finally figured what the hell... there are enough people out there that would be entertained by it, and, I guess if I don't tell it, it just dies with me some day heh morbid!! Which brings me to my final bit and title of this post. I don't remember actually bringing it home with me, but, what you guys call the "Alpha" controller, has been living in a moving box that's been following me around all these years. Except this wasn't used on any dev kit, *I* used it when I was testing out the prototypes. Also, the dev kits didn't even exist at the time heh... I included a couple photos of it. The serial numbers on the back should tell you the rest. I figured it would be a shame to just have it live out it's days in some featureless cardboard moving box when it could be loved, appreciated, and shared. My days of working for big tech companies are more than over -- take a look at my banner image on my profile and that'll tell you why. So, since I'm trying to get a new 'reality capture' business off the ground down here where I live in Vegas, I figured why not auction it off. I'm probably going to take a few months to get all my stories typed out and compiled for the little e-reader I mentioned. But I'm of co got to save at least a couple surprises for that, but I'm happy to share whatever memories I still have with you guys, so ask away. Anyway -- Again this site is so cool to see; you all are runnin with a piece of what turned out to be a part of cultural history -- and a surreal confirmation that we actually did put something out in the universe that brought some happiness and fun experiences people.... happiness, and gamer-rage because "f*$k that! That was bu#(%*it!" [[*throws controller across living room*]] Ta-ta for now! Tob

Hey everyone. So, I find myself in a unique situation. I will try to break down my problem as simply as possible: ::I have an S-Type (small) Original Xbox controller with a bad cable. I only have this one controller. ::I do not have a breakaway cable to connect the controller to the Xbox, BUT I have an Xbox controller port to female USB port cable. (pictured here: https://ibb.co/wJTTYfL ) My question is this: could I desolder the Xbox controller cable from the controller board and solder on a USB cable with a standard type-A (male) USB connector to connect to the Xbox, through the pictured-above female USB port?

I am having some issues with a system I am working on hardmodding, and I'd like to save the system if possible. The issue: I have a 1.0 OG Xbox console where the controllers do not work History of this project: This console started off as a non-working console on Ebay that had never been opened. It had hard drive issues so would give an error code 8 on boot. I was able to install an aladdin mod chip, and throw in a new formatted drive an boot into xblast and gentoox to try to flash cerbios. Xblast did not recognize the mod chip, so I tried gentoox also. My controllers do not work in either dashboard. I have an original controller from ebay that was advertised as working, as well as a cheap 3rd party controller from amazon. I do not have another Xbox, so its possible neither controller works. What I have tried so far: All 4 controller ports (If that even works in those dashboards) re capping the motherboard replacing the daughter board (1.0) and controller ports checking traces for continuity near the clock capacitor (there was a bit of leakage but not really any damage), near the controller headers, and general spot checks My question is, what would you try next? I would really like to save this console, but I am running out of ideas on how to repair it. Any advice/insight/knowledge would be greatly appreciated.

Fuck the wires and shrinkwrap. That's retarded. I wire up the negative so I can anchor the LED in place with the resistor. MUCH easier to anchor from one hard point instead of between two hard points. I make sure it all fits under and within the metal shielding.

My other post was in the wrong sub, here's a fresh one. Sorry about that. There's a pre-v1.6 Halo Edition that just went up on the Arizona ShopGoodwill, with the matching controller. I'm not bidding on it, figured I'd let people know. There was one a few months back that went for over $500 on there. The prices for stock xbox's on that site have skyrocketed since last year. Used to be no more than $40 for a parts unit. https://shopgoodwill.com/item/190290748 Sorry about that, I'm new to posting to the site, I'll be more careful. But to tell if its a v1.6 or not, if the A/V port is all plastic, its not a v1.6.

Hello Xbox friends. I plan to play Shenmues 1 to 3 (father of all open world games by Yu Suzuki and SEGA) on macOS and Windows and want to use a controller that's as close to the Dreamcast as possible (I understand the Xbox is popularly known as the spiritual successor of the Dreamcast with Microsoft collaborating on Windows CE on the Dreamcast), also I like that it's big and won't cramp my hands but will an Xbox 360 USB breakaway cable work with the Xbox "Duke" controller flawlessly? Do they have the same exact pinouts? Thank you in advance. God bless, Revelation 21:4

Hi, I would like to buy a controller for my recently acquired Japanese Smoke Black XBox. If you have a spare that you would like to sell, please let me know. Thanks, Pete

Hi, I recently bought four xbox one controllers not tested for repair them, I had very good surprises in the lot, only one needs micro soldering to be repaired, except that the problem comes that controllers are not 100% official (both brands appear have permissions from Microsoft to manufacture and sell controllers), the controller in question is a PowerA and I have to change the micro USB port except that I can't find a replacement micro USB port on the net and no one seems to have documented this subject, I wanted to know if one of you had already changed a micro USB port of a PowerA controller and if he still had the reference of the port used for the repair, thanks. Have a good day

Good night, I need help about the original Xbox Cromwell, my card is 1.6 and every time I start the Xromwell the screen is full of lines and the control stops working, I've tried changing the resolution to 480i and it still crashes I still don't know what it is. Could this be a BIOS issue?

Nothing special. Just a fun way to spend an hour.

I wanted more of a subtle lighting mod for this halo console. I used the extra fan header to power 3 LEDs. Left side was easy to see. I also placed one in the middle to have a subtle glow from the front. The right side was tricky, because of the downward facing CPU air baffle on the underside of the HDD tray. So I put the LED on the very edge of the motherboard and pointed diagonally up and at the underside of the newly chromed HDD tray. Had to point it at an angle under that smaller opening in the bottom of the vane. That gave me the light output I wanted out the vent and the front bottom of the case is now (more) symmetrically lit. I am hesitant to show the wiring because I'm not too proud of it. As long as the light I want is there, who cares? And yes, I know there's overspray. Good thing nobody will ever see it. Lol. My controller port LED mods are getting much better and neater.

Not sure if this is the right place to post this. Also, if it's stupid I'm sorry, I don't really know anything about electronics yet. I'm thinking about the possibility to convert the memory units ports of the S controller to put in a lithium battery and something like a bluetooth transmitter. I'm totally noob, so actually I don't know if this would actually work, with a usb bluetooth receiver plugged in or wired to one of the controller ports. Since it is the original controller no drivers would be needed and it should work like it was plugged in with a cable. I was also thinking about using the same kind of transmitters that are used in keyboards or mouses. I made some research on the net but seems that nobody did or even tried doing something like this with an S controller. Is that because this mod won't actually work?

Hi everyone! I come to you with the following problem. I have an XBOX 1.1 in which no controller port works. The console is unmodified and has not been opened before. I took it apart to replace the clock capacitor. Before the replacement, the ports did not work either. There is a picture and sound. XBOX asks to set the time but it is impossible. I have two controllers. One original and one non-original. The non-original one I tested on a PC and it worked there, the other one I haven't tested yet. The other controllers I do not have. I checked the motherboard looking for broken paths, but I did not find such, however, I will check again. There is corrosion around the clock capacitor. Especially at the components R7G1, R7G2, R7G3 and Q7G1. It seems to me that the corrosion is only superficial, but I would prefer to replace these components. I found information that R7G2 has a value of 1.1 kOhm (SMD code 112) unfortunately I could not find anything about R7G1 and R7G3. Q7G1 is npn transistor - MMBT3904LT1. The question is whether these components are related to non-functioning controllers //edit I forgot to write, there is a voltage of 4.95V on the power pins, in the controller ports

Friends, does Xbox have the ability to change buttons? The inversion of the camera is very annoying. There is an Xbox emulator with the ability to change the buttons, so their values are known, can they somehow be used to edit a file Default.xbe?

Hello all i have a 360 Controller that is just a standard usb (not Wireless). I tried to use a OG XBOX adapter to USB cable like the one here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331804441332?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=csiq_HSJSIm&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=pkpdgvjyta-&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY im not getting any joy with no response. The controller lights up for 1 second circling the green disc shape in the middle. I don’t have a 360 so I’m happy to dissemble the controller and change the connectors to work with the OG XBOX. the only information I could find was this quote Xbox connectors are some proprietary USB offshoot.<BR><BR>Xbox 360 connectors are standard USB.<BR><BR> Neither is compatible with the other.