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Showing results for tags 'clock'.
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Check out the damage on this 2003 Xbox I opened up yesterday. Two traces needed repair on the board. Corroded right through the board in some places. Going to do a full recap on this one and got rid of most of the rust.
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thanks to redherring32 we are now able to safely remove the clock cap in a 1.6 rev xbox. research and testing done by redherring32
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Hey guys, I recently turned on my OG Xbox after MANY years in storage (mostly temperature controlled storage) and I had no idea about the issues about the capacitors and so on. The DVD Drive and HDD seems to still be working fine with no issues. All of my old data was still there and I wanted to save the data to a memory card. I have learned that it is possible to save the data to a USB as well, but I think it might require a Softmod or something. The Fan still blows heat normally so it appears to be cooling the unit properly. Sadly I can't get the data from the drive at the moment. I tried to show plenty of pictures below as well. I have a few questions and concerns. Shortly after plugging in the unit I heard: -- 2 pops, but the console turned on and ran fine for a while (XB Dashboard and within a game). -- After a while my video went fuzzy\scrambled, reset and it started to FRAG during the game. (2 resets and Red\Green blinking) with no video). -- No smoke\smell or anything and I was able to open the tray to remove my disk. -- Same results after hard reset (FRAG). I did some research and learned more about the capacitor issue. I didn’t know any of this stuff before. I saw 2 busted capacitors from what I can see (those 2 pops). -- The Clock capacitor, which I eventually removed + cleaned the area (top and bottom) -- The PSU appears to have one leaking capacitor. Clock Capacitor: Battery Cap Leak - https://i.postimg.cc/jdfhZk4D/Fresh-leak.jpg Acid Corrosion - https://i.postimg.cc/BnGBycmM/Corroding-leak.jpg Battery Leak Cleaned - https://i.postimg.cc/9QtYjRSV/Cleaned.jpg Bottom of board Cleaned - https://i.postimg.cc/sfqcPR7F/Bottom-Cleaning.jpg Not knowing any better I let the clock “acid” sit there for a few days before cleaning because I was thinking about sending it in for repairs or something, but after reading more I decided to open it up and remove the Clock cap. It was pretty much corroded at this point and the leaked acid started to look horrible on my board. I cleaned it with 91% alcohol + Q-tips. For the corrosion I also scrapped some of the left over residue and kept wiping the entire area gently. The spill traveled further than I originally though. I checked the bottom of the board and saw a light cloudy color, but nothing too serious so I cleaned it up as well. Since the board was opened I decided to clean\wipe down the entire board from top and bottom. The board was in great condition, not too dirty\dusty, but since I had it opened….why not right? Power Supply Unit: PSU Cap Leak A - https://i.postimg.cc/Fs0jjkhc/PSU-Capacitor-lea-A.jpg PSU Cap Leak B - https://i.postimg.cc/447vxFMW/PSU-Capacitor-leak-B.jpg PSU Cap Leak C - https://i.postimg.cc/W1ngyRF1/PSU-Capacitor-leak-C.jpg PSU Cap Leak D - https://i.postimg.cc/8CzMQyMB/PSU-Capacitor-leak-D.jpg PSU Cap Leak E - https://i.postimg.cc/j27y3LNp/PSU-Capacitor-leak-E.jpg PSU Bottom A - https://i.postimg.cc/PfgWpQnT/PSU-Bottom-A.jpg PSU Bottom B - https://i.postimg.cc/P5h1Kfq7/PSU-Bottom-B.jpg Based on my research I have an Xbox v1.3 revision. The PSU capacitor leak looks fine on the bottom of the PSU and it appears that I have one of the “reinforced” PSUs that should not spark or cause a potential fire due the power connector\solder joint issue (constant insertion and removal of the power cable from what I’ve learned so far). Also, I did NOT wipe the PSU clean\wipe down top and bottom and honestly I didn’t want to touch it. Can someone tell me how long it takes for the PSU to drain and becomes much safer to handle? I know that PSUs (not just OG Xbox’s) can hold a charge for a very long time after being unplugged. I never touched it while cleaning the Clock capacitor leak. I let it (PSU) sit for roughly 10 days so I suppose it was safe to handle. I wasn't going to touch it, but I wanted to check the bottom of the PSU to see if there was any damage. I pretty much pulled it out and re-installed it by using the cabling and not even touching the damn thing. I have a Foxlink PSU, but I wanted to replace it with another one of the three brands. I believe they are interchangeable from what I’ve read. I noticed that the cable “color” was a bit different on the Delta, but the pinouts are the same I believe. I have the OG Xbox surge protector on the way just to be safe. Before investing into another PSU I was wondering what could be the harm in plugging in my current Foxlink with the leaking capacitor that already popped just to check and “see” if the console boots with no errors. If it boots to the Dashboard then I could turn it off and place the order for a replacement unit. Any potential issues with trying this before spending money on a PSU? Also I'd like to know an estimated amount of time that the PSU can hold a charge.
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Redherring32 (of OpenTendo fame) has been putting in some research into bypassing the need for a clock capacitor on the 1.6 revision Xbox; unlike the prior models a 1.6 will not boot without it. By removing R7P3 and R7P6 current limiting resistors which go to the positive leg of the clock cap and then connecting 3v3 standby voltage to that same leg, you can remove it entirely and still have a functioning system.
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I purchased a broken no power Xbox (v1.3) at a game store recently, and decided to take a look and see what the issue was. When I got the Xbox, it did not respond to being plugged in or pushing the power button. I've heard that the clock capacitor is an issue with the Xbox, and noticed that there was corrosion by it. It took me a while to take the capacitor off, almost like it was fused to the board. I was able to eventually get it out, but I ended up breaking off the cathode. (I am relatively new to repairing electronics and although I feel confident soldering, my desoldering skills need some work :-P) It seems like the corrosion is much worse than I initially thought. I am aware that the clock capacitor alone does not cause a no power issue, but rather it corroding the traces around it. What should my next steps be for the repair? Should I take a look at the A trace, or write off the console? Thank you in advance for any help/advice!
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Hello everyone and thanks in advance for your help. As you can see from the pic here: https://imgur.com/a/Vvnf6uX I removed today the clock cap and I found some corrosion. I cleaned very carefully (probably more clean will need) with a soft brush and isopropil alcool. I have noticed that corrosion affect some SMD component that now are gone, so I navigate the web looking for pictures to find the missing component so I can but and resolder them. Please help me with the values of the following components from bottom to top: R7G2 = 3K ohm R7G1 = 1.1 K ohm Q7G2= 1AM R7G3 = 285 Ohm CR7G1= A11 R7F9 = 2K ohm R7F8 = 256 Ohm R6F7 = can't find any value on the net Can you help me with those values? Also, any tip to double check? thanks
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Time passes by, so does the life of our OG Xbox Clock caps (if they are not removed already) but also technology in cap replacement options. So I wonder what the most Reasonable/ Convenient/ Easieast/ Safest/ Cost efficient/ Clock cap replacement of today could be? I know some people are not bothered without it and some people (lile myself) that would like to have it working Through the years I read that it can be everything inbetween replacing it with a 1F 2.5v original spec AeroGel cap, 10F 2.5v AeroGel for longer working time, a CR2032 battery socket with 1N4148 diod in series to prevent REcharge, which would not be good, 2.4v NiMh rechargable battery. My idea, not yet installed and tested, is to solder an AAA batteries socket with two 1.2v 800mA replaceable batteries to the old Clock Cap points and try to fit it in somewhere. The batteries gives 2.7v fully charged and would (theoretically, if the Xbox can give them enough charging) give more than enough unplugged power time and it would all in all cost around 5$. So now in 2020, what is your clock cap replacement (ideas, pictures, pros/cons, results)?
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Hi all, I've found an Original Xbox which is a v1.6. After connecting it, it doesn`t powering on, so I opened it up and did a check of all the capacitors. The clock cap was a bit leaking, so I removed it, cleaned everything, checked all the traces on the board with a magnifier and didn`t find an issues. At this moment I use a wire instead of the clock cap (I found some topics on this forum and reddit about that). So before ordering a new clock cap I want to have the console working. The console turns on now, but no audio or video. The light around the eject button is solid green. I've no clue how to fix this.
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My main gaming system is a green Halo xbox I bought maybe a year ago off ebay - it was in great condition and had never been opened before I got it. When I removed the case to clean it out I found the motherboard is a 1.4 revision with a gold clock capacitor. I remember reading online this is a high quality capacitor Microsoft switched to after they realized the cheap ones were failing. Does anyone here have any more information on this? Pics attached I took today.
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Hello! I decided to open up my softmodded Xbox made in july 2002. It has partially stopped working around 2008 and I remember replacing the hard disk did not help it back then. I dont remember the exact symptoms it had, but I remember considering it broken so I bought another one for cheap and stored this one for 15 years. So I wanted to give a try of repairing it today after learning about the clock capacitor problems, considering the fact that the console is still very clean globally and even have the OG box. When I first tried to turn it on, I had nearly no image showing on the screen, except a very dimmed and freezed green circle in the middle. I turned it back on and everything seemed fine, I was able to play a game with no problem for 5 minutes before deciding to turn it off and open it to have a look. Here is all the photos I took. The clock capacitor obviously leaked, but I can't quite tell how far the acid went as the whole board seem covered in dust. I plan on cleaning the surrounds with vinegar and then with IPA, but I don't know a lot about electronics so I wonder if there was anything you would do or avoid to do in this case. Also, can the softmod mess up something or has it likely absolutely nothing to do with potential failures? I must have played the console 1 or 2 years with the softmod without problems before it broke. Thank you all for your precious help!
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- 2002 clock capacitor leak repair corrosion
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Hello all! A few months back a got my first OG Xbox, but the DVD drive was broken. I ended up buying a second Xbox for parts with a working drive and swapped them out (I ended up getting lucky, it was a Samsung drive). So a couple days ago I pulled out my spare Xbox and found the only problem with it was the power button not turning the console on/off. The console would power on when plugged in, which looking into this online told me its a common problem. So I ended borrowing the working drive and softmodding it. Everything was going perfectly until I was playing some snes9x and the console was smoking! Turns out the clock capicitor was leaking on the motherboard and melting. I knew about the clock capicitor issues, but stupid me thought I'd just do it later. So I cleaned up the mess and removed the capicitor, but it left some irreversible damage. Now the console will boot up and work fine for 5 minutes before suddenly turning off. I inspected the motherboard and noticed it had some corrosion on the "A Line" (Source: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php%3F/topic/29-how-to-fix-trace-corrosion/&ved=2ahUKEwjl4szT1bn7AhXbjokEHQddBoEQFnoECA4QAQ&usg=AOvVaw1PMDAuq47ME_GX_0VJ58Ll). I'm not sure if the clock capicitor melt down has something to do with this new issue (most likely do does) or if the corrosion has gotten worse from the whole incident. I'm posting pictures below. I think the best method moving forward would be to try and solder in a wire workaround (From source above). I need some advice, whats the best move moving forward? I want to save this Xbox if I can.
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I saw on reddit that they recommended a Taiyo yuden or Nichicon 1F 2.5V, but it seems these are now out of production.
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hey, im a bit of a newb when it comes to og xbox, but i just bought one for the first time off of ebay. it works great, but i know its a big deal to remove the clock capacitor. it looks like it may have been opened before but i dont have a torx screwdriver to open it up to check. im going to my uncle's on saturday so he can open it up and see. is it fine if i play it with the possibility the clock cap hasnt been removed? it works great in every other regard.
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A while ago I removed the clock capacitor from an Xbox v.1.1. Some days ago came the new capacitor I had ordered and I got to install it. Now, since I'm a complete amateur on the soldering thing, I may have damaged the capacitor or the mb, or the soldering job I did isn't good enough, BUT, how long is the date/time expected to last with a same rating capacitor? I never actually used a new Xbox and I don't know. My first results show that I must have messed up the installation. As far as I can tell I put it in the same place where I removed the old one (there was a leftover capacitor leg in one of the holes) and I used the correct polarity (the negative of the capacitor to the white side of the board's schematic). The capacitor I used is the one in the picture below. Thank you!
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Hello I bought my another Xbox recently. First of all I decided to remove clock capacitor, when I opened console I saw clock capacitor but in different color (green). Is this replacement or should I removed it also? As I check there is no leak or something
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Hi all, I recently pulled my OG Xbox out of the garage to set it up for my 9yo to have a play on. Looking forwards to showing it off to her, I tested it and it worked fine but thought I had better remove the clock cap for safety (no leaking but checked to make sure). Then let her have a go at a game - worked fine. Then after rebooting, error 12.... I took the drive and put it on the PC and quickly took an image of it using HDDRawcopy, which showed around 8 bad sectors and the drive was reporting SMART errors too, so it's toast. I got a larger SATA drive and put it in using an amazon purchase IDE-SATA adapter, but still get the error 12 - is there any way to read the drive on a PC and repair the damage/reinstall whatever is used to boot (as there was a lovely setup of xecutor2 dashboards on there I would rather not lose). Otherwise, if there is no way to recover it. I tried using Tru Hexen 2020 to try and setup another drive, but the DVD won't boot (HDD is set to slave, I get error 17) Any help gratefully appreciated (it's a hard modded unit- xectutor 2 from memory)...
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G'day guys, Just a quick one, Today I aquired a Crystal XBOX, I was under the impression they were all 1.6 but after I soft mod'd its ID'ing it as a 1.4? From what I have read this may mean its actually a 1.5 as it was manufactured in 2004. So I know I need to pull the clock cap (which appears dead anyway) But I have opened her up and thankfully no damage to the board that I can see but its a different cap layout to the ones I have pulled before. Or is this actually a 1.6 and I can leave it be? So can you confirm its this cap I need to pull out? As you can see the board is totally filthy so tomorrow I intend on pulling the cap and giving it a good blow out Cheers.
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siting here running updates, with dave as my co-pilot, ive been thinking about permanent solutions, not just long term but something we can do once and never muck with it again, and yes im fully aware we can network out and get time untill something changes a site goes dead or we live with a wrong clock..... so the obvious one to me would be to run a set of wires off the clock cap pins out the back of the box and do an external battery backup mounted between the AV and the cat5, but..lets face it, how longs it going to last?, how long would it take to charge?..theres ALOT of variables and too much chance for a dead clock that needs reset me personaly i keep ALL of my vintage consoles on a switch box so that their bricks and power boards dont EVER see voltage unless they are in use, to preserve caps, boards and bricks, and heaven forbid..a power surge of some kind that manages to get past my ups, i figure setup like that my consoles should out live me..i hope, for the guys that dont unplug or kill power, you just replace the cap, or go with a small battery but its got me thinking about not only the xbox but any other unit with a clock cap that could be without power for weeks...months....lets face it we never know what life throws at us so what do we know, ..its a 2.5v cap...but what amps?..if we were to run 2 wires and add a port to the back of the box we should be able to add some manner of small wall wort brick and step down the amps/volts, heck you could use the same wall wort to keep clock voltage on multiple consoles depending on how they are displayed...im not just thinking the X but any/all systems anyway its an idea im tossing out there however dumb it may sound at the moment
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I have removed clockcapacitor the but I was unfortunate to find same exact specs. My understanding the clockcapacitor is 2.5v 1F is this correct? online order is not an option for me as of now...I am tring with local store, or to scrap from old motherboard a capacitor that would suffice so what would be the (range) of capacitor voltage/Farad ..... i.e would a capacitor with 6.3v /1000uF work as a replacement.
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It has been some years since our beloved xBox was released and some parts have begun to decay. It is commonly advised to remove your clock capacitor and replace any leaking. 1st step, clear any leakage. It's acidic afterall and you'll need a tight grip. 2nd Gently pull at the capacitor being removed while applying heat to the solder with your iron. 3rd Once removed, prepare your replacement capacitor. The longer pin is usually positive. Align these with the holes your old capacitor was soldered into. If you are unable to push it through, apply heat to melt any solder blocking the hole. 4th once pulled through, bend each pin iutward to hold the capacitor position. You don't want it falling out or becoming loose. Apply solder at the base of each pin. 5th trim pins just above the solder. I used nail clippers as they were able to achieve a shorter trim. That and i misplaced my wire cutters. Refit your motherboard etc Power up and pray
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I recently took my old xecuter 2 modded 1.4 xbox out of storage and have replaced the drive and removed the clock cap and its working great. The only issue is if i power off for a few mins and then power on I get a blank screen and it wont boot. If i disable the mod chip and go into the normal OS its looking to set the time(fair enough as i removed the cap). Once i set the time and enable the mod chip it boots fine. Is there a way to hard set the time so this doesn't always happen. My UnleashX front end gets the time from the internet correctly anyway. Any help or guidance appreciated guys.
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I finally got around to removing the clock cap v1.2 board, though i would completely strip it down as it was half way in bits anyway, and give it a good clean out. Washed the plastics etc cleaned motherboard, fan, heatsink (Still need to apply new thermal paste) popped her back together after the plastics had dried and to my amasement it works. The cap was fine to be honest, no sign of any problems at all. I was quite supprised how clean it was to be honest, just a light bit of dust on the motherboard. Thanks allf or looking.
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Are here any repercussions to that? i did it to prevent leaking but i'd like to know if it needs replacing for some feature or if it was unnecesary.
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I installed Rocky5's Xbox Softmodding Tool v1.1.6 on both my v.12 and v1.6. The clock is set to autoset the time /date but it seems to be getting the wrong timezone, and I can't find where to change it. Could it be it needs a different SMTP IP address? I'm on GMT +0 (Lisbon, London).
Board Life Status
Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48