Search the Community

Here is my version of a slim XBOX that I designed. I tried to make the case as small as possible, and still look like an original xbox. I removed the DVD drive and the power supply from the xbox. I pulled my 1.4V xbox out of storage and it was fragging. Got tired of troubleshooting it (the clock capacitor was already removed). So I bought a 1.0 on ebay with a broken dvd drive for $15. The finish on the XBOX is not super, planning to reprint in white filament ( I ran out on my test prints), and only paint the black portions of the case. https://imgur.com/gallery/o58Nul0 I am using a Xbox 360 slim power brick to power the system. The power brick has 6 wires: 2 Yellow Wires (12V), 1 Red Wire (5V), 1 Blue Wire (Power OK, when it receives a signal back it enables the 12V rails), 1 Grey Wire (needs to be grounded to enable the 5V rail), 1 Black Wire (Gnd). The 360 slim brick outputs 5V and enables the 12V rail when it receives 5V back. I wired in a tiny 5V to 3.3V convertor on the red wire on the power brick to the 3.3 standby on my 1.0 motherboard. The Power OK on the motherboard back to the blue wire on the power brick. I then wired in a 12V to 5V 20 Amp Buck/Step Down Convertor and a 12V to 3.3V 6 Amp Buck/Step Down Convertor to the yellow wires on the power brick and connected those to the 5V and 3.3 V spots on the motherboard, and wired 12V directly. Here is a crude drawing of the wiring scheme. I added a 6 pin molex connector to the back of the case and wired it directly to the power connector socket on the bottom of the motherboard. When the power brick is enabled it illuminates the led on the brick orange and the 5V rail is active. This is being dropped down to 3.3V and going to the standby on the motherboard. When the power button is pressed the motherboard sends 3.3V back to the 360 power supply (which is high enough to enable the Power OK on the brick) and enables the 12V rail. The led on the power brick turns green. This sends the 3.3V, 5V, and 12V back to the xbox and it powers on properly. When you turn the xbox off, it removes the 3.3V from the power ok line and the 12V rails are powered off (power brick led turns orange) and the SMC is reset. My xbox powers on just fine without removing any capacitors or anything, but the flubber does stutter occasionally, but always boots up to xbmc4gamers. I installed an openxenium chip in the console. I am running indbios. The system has a 500gb 2.5 inch sata hdd. The power button I put in the case interferes with the daughter board on the 1.0 motherboard, so I unsoldered the connectors for the motherboard from the daughter board and added wires to extend the board. this board is zipped ties to an ogx360 which is soldered to a 360 rf board I salvaged from a 360 console. I do not have any original controller ports in the system as I will only use the wireless 360 controllers. These board just sit in the front of the case for now. At some point I want to develop some sort of mount for these so they are not just loose in the xbox. I designed the mount for the hard drive to use some of the motherboard screw holes to mount it to the case. The fitment for the ide-to-sata board is very tight so I removed the sata connectors from the board, and soldered on a female sata connector I salvaged from a dead 360 console. I cut the ide ribbon to about 6 inches and I am using a 6" sata cable to run to the hard drive. The ide-to-sata board is powered from the dvd drive connector. I cut a molex to sata power cable and soldered it to the ide-to-sata board where the dvd connector attaches. This allows me to put the ide board on the side of the case besides the hard drive. The case is too small to use a stock case fan, so I am using the stock fan on the gpu, a 50mm fan on the cpu, and a 50mm fan in the rear of the case. I designed the case to have ports like the stock case on the side and added them to the top of the case as well. I have not seen temps go above 50C yet. I am using Noiseblocker BlackSilentFan XS-2 for the 50mm fans. The final mod I made was to remove the stock video connector and add an internal wii2hdmi board. For future revisions I am planning the following: an attiny board to allow the 360rf board to display the controller leds and run the sync functions. I will add these leds in the case similar to how the 360 displays them. Add a sync and eject button below the power button so I can sync the controllers and get into the openxenium menu if needed. Find a better connector for 6 wires for the power as the current connector is large and doesn't mount to the case very well. (feel free to post suggestions).

Finally time to let her go. (Plus I can't find the A/V cable, so your on your own there.) Boots to XBMC fully customized with emus, music, and games. 400 GB worth. - v1.6 xbox w/Red XCM Case (as mentioned, no AV cable. Case has some cracks, mostly on bottom.) - Xecuter 3 CE Chip - X3CP Crystal control panel w X3 XLCD (Not sure why, but the bottom of the lcd isn't working properly. It will with my hand close by, but text disappears when hand is removed.) - Used to have an X3IR, the board is still inside, but no IR. - 400 GB Seagate HD - Samsung disc drive Also have: Xecuter X2.6 CE Modchip (everything but the 5v wire for v1.6 consoles, so won't work on that console without some custom work) 007 Agent Under Fire Game Disc (exploitable to softmod) 4 controllers 80 GB WD HD 250 GB Seagate HD Another 400 GB Seagate HD Games Splinter Cell and Splinter Cell Chaos Theory (only the best games ever...) 4x USB port to xbox controller port adapter AVI to HMDI adapter. (Helped me when booting flashbios on newer TVs.) Let me know if interested in anything. Highest price wins. Everything as is (I've mentioned all issues I know about.)

HI, I bought the Halo 2 jewel from Chimeric system and would like to know if I must use super glue or is there another way to fix it nicely? The top case is ready with original jewel removed, I used sand paper and added a bit of spray paint to cover any scratches. Thanks,

Just if someone would like to sell one

Still a work in progress. Only part left to finalize is the front grill, then the kits go up for sale. Raw, or painted.

i will get a crystal for my birthday and i'm counting on hardmodding it but i already got a xecuter2 on one of my xbox should i juste change the case ?

Would like to swap my current original black case that has few stripped threads + fan cut mods from previous owner. Looking for a visually OK case or dead unit in EU to hold my v1.1 board Thanks

Hey everyone im looking for a crystal original xbox shell i dont need the components that go inside i just need a case so let me know if one of you have one for sale for a good price thanks.

here are a few custom case mods made for a customer.all done with airbrush and dremel tool all cuts are done by hand. ravens case mod cowboys case mod and this one just for fun tiger

Hey guys, Check this out.. https://www.ioffer.com/i/original-xbox-system-xtender-extender-case-mod-595802460 $500 dont you think that a bit steep... It only comes with one hdd. I know these things are like rocking horse shit but still!!

I've actually seen a few people talking about this all ready here and on facebook but just wanted to share it for those who haven't. A full tutorial on how to install a custom LCD screen in your original Xbox (NON-X3) that has a temperature monitor so you can constantly see what temp your console is running at to help prolong the lifespan and keep things cool! You can see it on my website by clicking the link below: Tutorial on how to install an LCD screen in your original Xbox console

Looking for a new case for 2 of my consoles. Any Colour XCM Case Halo Console shell. UK based preferred

hi does anyone know where i can get clear cases for the original xbox in the uk

Hi, anyone have a XCM ruby case to sell ? Thanks

One of the screws that holds down the DVD drive is stripped and the screw won't tighten. Other than the obvious, let it alone or even worse glue it (as I want to get it out again), is there something like a helicoil to repair the case? Just curious if anyone has experimented with this. Not a crisis but I would like a more permanent but removable solution. I was thinking even some kind of epoxy that I could pour in that would harden and I could re-thread it with the screw. Thanks!

If you are a fanatic (like me) and want to get all of that old sticker residue off of your game cases, Goo Gone works great!