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Does anyone have a link for an LED strip made for a modded Og xbox case? Saw a you tube video of one being made a few years back but it seems they are no longer available. The DVD cables were tapped to power the strip. Would like to find something similar. Any suggestions welcomed. Thanks

Hi all, I built an xbox mini a few years ago and designed a case based loosely on ghostavels well known xbox mini. I had it laser cut from plexiglass and it turned out ok, but could be better. I'm looking into possibly designing in CAD and making the cases but want to see if there's enough interest for it to be a worthwhile venture. I've attached some pictures of my original, any feedback or suggestions would be great. Currently it uses the breakaway part of the controller cables for controller ports, I have only used 2 on mine but 2 more can be added obviously. I also added internal wifi hence an extra cutout on the back to loop a small cat5 to an internally mounted wifi pcb, this could be omitted or the wifi pcb could be directly soldered to the ethernet port (I wanted to retain the port). There is also a small window for internal IR dongle, again this can be omitted. The 3 smaller "holes" are for hdd act LED, Power LED and network activity. Again optional. You would need to do the pico psu mod and have some aftermarket cooling for cpu etc (I used Iceberq 4 pro's) Face plates could be any colour, same for the side/back pieces. Also doesn't have to have the xbmc logo engraved Thanks

So my plan is to design an aftermarket original xbox case that keeps all the original components (mainboard with heatsinks, controller ports, dvd rom, psu, hdd, etc) with the possible exception of the rear fan and metal shielding. To achieve this I have been 3d modelling all of the internals to ensure everything fits. I have some ideas on the style I want to go for but have some questions. 1. Should I include a place to mount an lcd/oled? 2. Would you want to keep the xbox jewel? 3. Hdd/lan activity leds? 4. Any other requests Once I have some feedback the most popular features will be integrated. For now here are some of the 3d modelled components (to scale)

So as you may know i've already designed 2 different xbox mini cases and I'm also working on a full replacement case. This design sits in between these two, it loses the DVD rom and uses a 2.5" HDD/SSD instead of the full sized HDD. It also keeps the original PSU. The lid incorporates ducting to guide air over the heatsinks and also holds the HDD/SSD. Sttill a work in progress but heres a quick look so far:

I'm an absolute cretin and have wanted to go for a paint job similar to the look of the official Mountaindew xbox but instead of neon green i'll have it as neon orange or something. What would you guys recommend?

Hi I'm just fixing up a cheap faulty xbox from ebay, it came with no screws, anyway the bottom Case won't fit the motherboard all the holes are 2mm 3mm off centre? Although it fits in the tin housing great. No idea what version M/B it is so help would be great. So far I cut 2 noggins off the bottom Case, still no joy lol. See photos below. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/hlgzxwbzpzemvrd5j6zvv/h?dl=0&rlkey=yzsrj2j6jztmu42kj6mvczjd4

Hey guys take a look at this classic piece of case modding... Looks like it was either done by a kid or by a very impatient adult with the wrong tools!

So I want to build my ultimate XBOX, I already managed to get my hands on a 14.ghz 128 mb ram xbox (1.4 revision), planning to install stellar. But I also want to put it in a nice case. Luckily I can get my hands on a crystal xbox fairly cheap. But this is a 1.6 revision. I know there are issues putting a 1.6 in a 1.0-1.4 case with grounding, how about the other way around? And is there a fix for the grounding issue? Reason I’m asking is that I would probably put the 1.6 board in the 1.4 case to recoup some of my money. I briefly considered putting in a modchip, but sadly the marked for modded xbox in NL is rather slim. With chip, hdd, sata2ide connector and IDE cable I wouldn’t be able to recoup my money

1. Can the metal parts be separated from the housing without damaging the metal parts? and metal parts will not rust, but I want to clean the top case 2.With that said, what's a good technique for THIS case Crystal cleaning? 3.the casing is not yellow, but i want to clean it once and for all Anyone care to share their experience? p.s sorry, i don't speak english, just that is what google translate says

Anyone have a top and dvd bezel for a Halo Edition Console let me know. Need 1 to complete a set.

Hi, I'm currently try to install strip led lights in my OG crystal case, it need a 12v source. IV tryed the 12v direct from the power supply board and also from a hard drive power splitter. The problems I'm have is it keeps blowing MOSFETs on the motherboard? Is there a limit to how many LEDs can be installed? Thanks

I gave my friend a 1.4 crystal case I got in a bundle of Xboxes online, I forgot to tell him about needing to remove the metal shielding from a pin. Because of that, it would not boot or show any signs of power even when he put the board back in the old case. This case was completely empty so he did use the 1.6 power supply which is also important about not mixing them. There's this one particular transistor on the standby rail on the 1.6 motherboards that can fail. I have swapped this and it is working again

Xbox Original Modded Console. Custom Painted with Case Window and LEDs. Controller Custom Painted. RGB AV Cable. Power Cord. $160 USA Shipped Cashapp or PayPal goods and services.

Album: https://imgur.com/a/ptzp4Vl Saw this pop up for sale locally and made the trip to pick it up. He said his father-in-law was an IT contractor, and apparently he originally got the case empty. I got back home and opened it up to find the original case hardware kit sealed in its cardboard box, taped inside the drive bay next to a power cable in a bag. A silica gel pack was taped to the floor of the case. The IO connectors were zip tied together, tucked away in a corner. I am extra certain this case was never used, because the metal plate covering the DVD drive bay was not punched out. My assumption is that Microsoft ordered cases from a supplier (says Yeou Chih on the inside) and hand-assembled all 50 units themselves in Redmond. I'm guessing that this case was one that either arrived damaged, or just never got used. If there were rumored to be 50 units, then I suppose this is unit 51. The date code on the back is 4-18-01. I'm not entirely sure what to do with it. The inside is perfect, but the outside is a bit rough from kicking around in a basement. Ideally, I'd like to purchase the parts to remake the Alpha tower like N64 Freak did, but considering how difficult it is to find the Intel motherboard at a reasonable price I'm not sure how likely that is to happen. Maybe another 820 chipset board would work instead? I'm seeing a few similar candidates that are half the price of the Intel board. Another option I'm considering is building a similarly-specced PC inside and installing Windows 2000 for some Halo action. All I've done so far is clean it up. Thoughts?

I don't like that the Startech SATA-IDE adapter doesn't have a case, so I designed one for it, and thought I'd share it. It's printed in two halves and snaps together (if all goes well). sata-adapter-case.stl

I wanted to switch out the stock fan for a Noctua and still retain some of the OG look and feel, this is the result. Maybe it will be of use to someone else as well. The design is up on Thingiverse and PrusaPrinters, whichever you fancy. Print instructions are there as well. Enjoy. PS. I'm also working on a design that's more compact and easier to print (in two or three parts), I'll post it if I ever get around to completing it.

If even the slightest bit of pressure is placed on the case directly above the disc drive as it’s running, there’s a metallic “vibrating” noise. I actually had to loosen the screws on the case to stop it doing it all the time after reassembling it. I thought perhaps I’d tightened the two halves of the shell together too much. Also, is the read/boot time “normal” between inserting a disc and the black Xbox splash screen showing? Video here:

Hi I recently got a non working crystal xbox(1.6) for cheap, I already have a tsop 1.4 and was wondering if I can put all it's components(mobo,psu, dvd etc) into the crystal case.

Hello all. I recently installed one of those ‘quiet’ case fans (Nexus 70mm Real Silent case fan) with the expectation that I would get quiet performance with the same cooling. I was shocked that I had to drastically increase the fan speed to get the same cooling performance. So, now I want to rethink my choice and see if the somewhat noisy stock fan can be refurbished. Other then seeing advice to clean the blades, I don’t see any other suggestions. Before I tinker for myself, does anyone know if the stock fan can be disassembled, and lubricated with the hopes of getting the stock fan as quiet as it can be?

Looking for suggestions for Led lighting for a case mod. I would prefer not to solder anything. I would like to connect to an extra molex connector from recent hdd upgrade. Any suggestions welcomed. Thanks

https://youtu.be/SQiO5FDFtVY I built this a long time ago. Being an Xbox collector these days I've recently decided to give it a bit of love.

Here is my version of a slim XBOX that I designed. I tried to make the case as small as possible, and still look like an original xbox. I removed the DVD drive and the power supply from the xbox. I pulled my 1.4V xbox out of storage and it was fragging. Got tired of troubleshooting it (the clock capacitor was already removed). So I bought a 1.0 on ebay with a broken dvd drive for $15. The finish on the XBOX is not super, planning to reprint in white filament ( I ran out on my test prints), and only paint the black portions of the case. https://imgur.com/gallery/o58Nul0 I am using a Xbox 360 slim power brick to power the system. The power brick has 6 wires: 2 Yellow Wires (12V), 1 Red Wire (5V), 1 Blue Wire (Power OK, when it receives a signal back it enables the 12V rails), 1 Grey Wire (needs to be grounded to enable the 5V rail), 1 Black Wire (Gnd). The 360 slim brick outputs 5V and enables the 12V rail when it receives 5V back. I wired in a tiny 5V to 3.3V convertor on the red wire on the power brick to the 3.3 standby on my 1.0 motherboard. The Power OK on the motherboard back to the blue wire on the power brick. I then wired in a 12V to 5V 20 Amp Buck/Step Down Convertor and a 12V to 3.3V 6 Amp Buck/Step Down Convertor to the yellow wires on the power brick and connected those to the 5V and 3.3 V spots on the motherboard, and wired 12V directly. Here is a crude drawing of the wiring scheme. I added a 6 pin molex connector to the back of the case and wired it directly to the power connector socket on the bottom of the motherboard. When the power brick is enabled it illuminates the led on the brick orange and the 5V rail is active. This is being dropped down to 3.3V and going to the standby on the motherboard. When the power button is pressed the motherboard sends 3.3V back to the 360 power supply (which is high enough to enable the Power OK on the brick) and enables the 12V rail. The led on the power brick turns green. This sends the 3.3V, 5V, and 12V back to the xbox and it powers on properly. When you turn the xbox off, it removes the 3.3V from the power ok line and the 12V rails are powered off (power brick led turns orange) and the SMC is reset. My xbox powers on just fine without removing any capacitors or anything, but the flubber does stutter occasionally, but always boots up to xbmc4gamers. I installed an openxenium chip in the console. I am running indbios. The system has a 500gb 2.5 inch sata hdd. The power button I put in the case interferes with the daughter board on the 1.0 motherboard, so I unsoldered the connectors for the motherboard from the daughter board and added wires to extend the board. this board is zipped ties to an ogx360 which is soldered to a 360 rf board I salvaged from a 360 console. I do not have any original controller ports in the system as I will only use the wireless 360 controllers. These board just sit in the front of the case for now. At some point I want to develop some sort of mount for these so they are not just loose in the xbox. I designed the mount for the hard drive to use some of the motherboard screw holes to mount it to the case. The fitment for the ide-to-sata board is very tight so I removed the sata connectors from the board, and soldered on a female sata connector I salvaged from a dead 360 console. I cut the ide ribbon to about 6 inches and I am using a 6" sata cable to run to the hard drive. The ide-to-sata board is powered from the dvd drive connector. I cut a molex to sata power cable and soldered it to the ide-to-sata board where the dvd connector attaches. This allows me to put the ide board on the side of the case besides the hard drive. The case is too small to use a stock case fan, so I am using the stock fan on the gpu, a 50mm fan on the cpu, and a 50mm fan in the rear of the case. I designed the case to have ports like the stock case on the side and added them to the top of the case as well. I have not seen temps go above 50C yet. I am using Noiseblocker BlackSilentFan XS-2 for the 50mm fans. The final mod I made was to remove the stock video connector and add an internal wii2hdmi board. For future revisions I am planning the following: an attiny board to allow the 360rf board to display the controller leds and run the sync functions. I will add these leds in the case similar to how the 360 displays them. Add a sync and eject button below the power button so I can sync the controllers and get into the openxenium menu if needed. Find a better connector for 6 wires for the power as the current connector is large and doesn't mount to the case very well. (feel free to post suggestions).

Finally time to let her go. (Plus I can't find the A/V cable, so your on your own there.) Boots to XBMC fully customized with emus, music, and games. 400 GB worth. - v1.6 xbox w/Red XCM Case (as mentioned, no AV cable. Case has some cracks, mostly on bottom.) - Xecuter 3 CE Chip - X3CP Crystal control panel w X3 XLCD (Not sure why, but the bottom of the lcd isn't working properly. It will with my hand close by, but text disappears when hand is removed.) - Used to have an X3IR, the board is still inside, but no IR. - 400 GB Seagate HD - Samsung disc drive Also have: Xecuter X2.6 CE Modchip (everything but the 5v wire for v1.6 consoles, so won't work on that console without some custom work) 007 Agent Under Fire Game Disc (exploitable to softmod) 4 controllers 80 GB WD HD 250 GB Seagate HD Another 400 GB Seagate HD Games Splinter Cell and Splinter Cell Chaos Theory (only the best games ever...) 4x USB port to xbox controller port adapter AVI to HMDI adapter. (Helped me when booting flashbios on newer TVs.) Let me know if interested in anything. Highest price wins. Everything as is (I've mentioned all issues I know about.)

HI, I bought the Halo 2 jewel from Chimeric system and would like to know if I must use super glue or is there another way to fix it nicely? The top case is ready with original jewel removed, I used sand paper and added a bit of spray paint to cover any scratches. Thanks,

Just if someone would like to sell one