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Found 14 results

  1. I'm moving this topic from: I would do it in a more polished fashion, but I'm not a moderator and don't have the means to do so. ----------------------------------------------------------------- Post 1: In response to what dash I was using. Old ass xbmc 1.1 dude. I actually want to change to evox or maybe xbmc 3.5.3 but I don't know what the previous owner did for the installation on this particular box and i don't want to de-stabilize anything. The dash boots from a mounted (I'm assuming it's mounted) q: partition. X3cl is configured to boot the dash from f:, but the only files present in the root directory are evoxdash.xbe.old and evox.ini... What the fuck? How is this thing even booting? What the hell is going on? I would just do a clean install but i won't have direct pc access for another month or so, so i can't back up. I do have slayer 2.7 and ogxbox 2021 discs. Can i pull it off with those?... Assuming that's even enough info for you to assess the situation! Post 2: Basically, when asked to clarify and provide more details. Kaos, the two files I listed (an .ini and an .old) are literally the only 2 files in the root of f:. There are no valid executables there so i have no idea what the x3 is booting to get me into xbmc. That's my main point of confusion - If the X3 is set to boot the dash from the root of F: and there's no dash executable located there, then how the FUCK is my Xbox booting at all? How can my bios launch a dashboard (the XBMC 1.1.0 I mentioned) that, by all available and tangible evidence, doesn't fucking exist? but it loads, so obviously it exists somewhere) but can't even load a I'll check the logs. The dash priority list in configlive is the default list. When I change to boot from E: a bare unleashx loads with no menu entries (games and emulators are empty) and is useless except for the file browser. Booting from c partition results in a boot loop, even though there is an evoxdash.xbe in the root, which I'm assuming was created as an old shortcut because there are no resource files/folders and trying to load it manually results in a dash restart... This thing reminds me of the house from poltergeist - full of randomness and wormholes and shit. Dave, thank you for confirming. Is it possible that the bios is just resetting the time every time I try to set it with the dash? Edit: Oh for fuck's sake. I can't open the .log file in unleashx because q: is only present when xbmc is running. And when I try to copy the log file from q: to any other partition so I can view it in unleash, xbmc just refuses to do it. For the life of me, I can NOT find the folder that is being mounted to q:, either. My xbox is a fucking sociopath. What the CHRIST? Edit 2: i found softmod install files in udata and some evox dash files in a subfolder of 41560017. So this thing was softmodded at some point in its life. No wonder it's such a mess. Still can't find the real q: directory... Edit 3: I'm able to get UnleashX to boot if I copy the files from the slayer's 2.7 disc to, say, the root of E:. But if I try to get EvolutionX to run by copying files from the same method, it fails to load and triggers a bios default-dash restart. Does the Evox dash have to be run/setup/installed a certain way, or something? I'm able to load any other dash like Avalaunch or XBMC 3.5.3 (if run as an application from a default.xbe). EvolutionX seems to be really touchy in that respect. Ironically, I was able to get the Evox menu from OGXbox (or slayer's, I can't remember now) actual installer to run from the root of E:, but not the one from the Dashes folder of Slayers. Wow. That makes no sense to me. ----------------------------------------------------- SS_Dave's responses to my time issue: -I tested this with a X3cp with the X3 bios and yes the date gets scrambled on each boot where the X2-5035 and Ind 5004 bios didn't reset the date/time I haven't noticed it before as my Xbox's are connected to the home network and the date/time is set automatically. -I tested that with 2 different Xbox's (1.6 and 1.1) and it did the same when booting direct to the dash and not loading the X3 menu 1st and the clock gets scrambled every time but not with the X2 or Ind on the 1.1, The 1.6 gets reset to 1/1/1900 on the Evox dash and 1/1/2000 in the M$ dash every time you power cycle it. It made no difference if the clock as set via the net then unplug the network cable and power cycle then the clock was scrambled or the clock setting in the M$ dash it did the same. When I get bit more time I will test the older versions of X3 bios. My Reply: So my problem is reproducing when you mimic my setup? Glad to know it's not just me. Definitely let me know when you get some time and are able to experiment further. I appreciate it, buddy. Do you have any insight into my dashboard clusterfuck, by chance? I'd appreciate your input on that, if you don't mind.
  2. Hi Everyone! I'm in the market for a 1.0 motherboard that has had the extra ram up to 128mb chips added, has had all the caps replaced, the clock cap removed, the TSOP write points restored, and CPU thermal paste replaced. Essentially a nicely restored 128mb 1.0 motherboard that won't give me any trouble for! Optionally it would be nice to have the LPC pin headers installed in the case recovery is needed. I know there is a lot of time in that request between the caps and the ram, so please name your price. I'm in the US.
  3. hey, im a bit of a newb when it comes to og xbox, but i just bought one for the first time off of ebay. it works great, but i know its a big deal to remove the clock capacitor. it looks like it may have been opened before but i dont have a torx screwdriver to open it up to check. im going to my uncle's on saturday so he can open it up and see. is it fine if i play it with the possibility the clock cap hasnt been removed? it works great in every other regard.
  4. Time passes by, so does the life of our OG Xbox Clock caps (if they are not removed already) but also technology in cap replacement options. So I wonder what the most Reasonable/ Convenient/ Easieast/ Safest/ Cost efficient/ Clock cap replacement of today could be? I know some people are not bothered without it and some people (lile myself) that would like to have it working Through the years I read that it can be everything inbetween replacing it with a 1F 2.5v original spec AeroGel cap, 10F 2.5v AeroGel for longer working time, a CR2032 battery socket with 1N4148 diod in series to prevent REcharge, which would not be good, 2.4v NiMh rechargable battery. My idea, not yet installed and tested, is to solder an AAA batteries socket with two 1.2v 800mA replaceable batteries to the old Clock Cap points and try to fit it in somewhere. The batteries gives 2.7v fully charged and would (theoretically, if the Xbox can give them enough charging) give more than enough unplugged power time and it would all in all cost around 5$. So now in 2020, what is your clock cap replacement (ideas, pictures, pros/cons, results)?
  5. Hi - I've recently picked up the orange xbox live beta tester memory card but it didn't come with the matching cap. Does anyone in the community have an orange cap they would sell or trade me? I've attached a pic I found online of what the caps look like. I appreciate your time and help tracking one down.
  6. https://imgur.com/a/OJsz0Uw please click that link so that u can see a video of what i'm talking about. you'll notice that there are vertical static(static as in fuzzy static on a tv not, static as in "unchanging") lines on the screen when there is a dark scene. the video doesn't show it too well but they are even easier to see in person. that is the opening sequence of xmen legends. i have this problem on 2 of my stock xbox v1.0's and on my modded v1.4(i also have the diagonal lines on it). the lines do not appear on my v1.6's. i've tried it on 2 stock and one modded 1.6 and none of the 3 have the problem. i am connected thru the official hd xbox thing(with the component cable outputs). i'm wondering if it is an issue with certain capacitors that cause this? if so, does anyone know which specific ones cause it? the reason i ask is because it would be a pain to fully recap each board of the xbox when they are functioning perfectly in all other areas so i'd rather just replace the specific ones instead of recapping the whole board. btw, none of the cap are bulging or show obvious wear. i know that the 1.4's are very prone to the diagonal lines because of bad caps but i don't which ones are the problem.
  7. Hi all, I recently pulled my OG Xbox out of the garage to set it up for my 9yo to have a play on. Looking forwards to showing it off to her, I tested it and it worked fine but thought I had better remove the clock cap for safety (no leaking but checked to make sure). Then let her have a go at a game - worked fine. Then after rebooting, error 12.... I took the drive and put it on the PC and quickly took an image of it using HDDRawcopy, which showed around 8 bad sectors and the drive was reporting SMART errors too, so it's toast. I got a larger SATA drive and put it in using an amazon purchase IDE-SATA adapter, but still get the error 12 - is there any way to read the drive on a PC and repair the damage/reinstall whatever is used to boot (as there was a lovely setup of xecutor2 dashboards on there I would rather not lose). Otherwise, if there is no way to recover it. I tried using Tru Hexen 2020 to try and setup another drive, but the DVD won't boot (HDD is set to slave, I get error 17) Any help gratefully appreciated (it's a hard modded unit- xectutor 2 from memory)...
  8. G'day guys, Just a quick one, Today I aquired a Crystal XBOX, I was under the impression they were all 1.6 but after I soft mod'd its ID'ing it as a 1.4? From what I have read this may mean its actually a 1.5 as it was manufactured in 2004. So I know I need to pull the clock cap (which appears dead anyway) But I have opened her up and thankfully no damage to the board that I can see but its a different cap layout to the ones I have pulled before. Or is this actually a 1.6 and I can leave it be? So can you confirm its this cap I need to pull out? As you can see the board is totally filthy so tomorrow I intend on pulling the cap and giving it a good blow out Cheers.
  9. I'm a total newbie to soldering/electronics and I messed up while trying to replace the capacitor on my old xbox. I took a picture from underneath the motherboard and labelled which hole is positive and negative, and I'm trying to understand what my options are for getting a cap in there. For the record, I damaged the "via" rivets so the holes are damaged. Some people talk about scratching off the light green stuff to reveal the copper and attaching wires to it, to which a cap could go on the end? I'm really confused and would appreciate any help you could offer. First pic was the bulged caps. Damaged cap slot is on the far right. Next pic is of the underside of the 3rd cap slot. 3rd pic is from the top of the motherboard, same cap slot. I think the copper vias connecting the different layers in the board were damaged, as they came out with the cap that I had to remove (yes I'm dumb, got frustrated and had the temperature too high). What are my options here? Is there any way to go around this? Is it worth just filling in the holes with plenty of solder and installing the cap as normal? Really don't know what to do
  10. what's the difference in the blue capacitors and the solid silver ones?
  11. It has been some years since our beloved xBox was released and some parts have begun to decay. It is commonly advised to remove your clock capacitor and replace any leaking. 1st step, clear any leakage. It's acidic afterall and you'll need a tight grip. 2nd Gently pull at the capacitor being removed while applying heat to the solder with your iron. 3rd Once removed, prepare your replacement capacitor. The longer pin is usually positive. Align these with the holes your old capacitor was soldered into. If you are unable to push it through, apply heat to melt any solder blocking the hole. 4th once pulled through, bend each pin iutward to hold the capacitor position. You don't want it falling out or becoming loose. Apply solder at the base of each pin. 5th trim pins just above the solder. I used nail clippers as they were able to achieve a shorter trim. That and i misplaced my wire cutters. Refit your motherboard etc Power up and pray
  12. Im picking up a mint mountain dew xbox with box and paperwork. It looks perfect no scratches. Im wondering what the opinions are on opening it up to change at least the clock cap. Possibly replacing all of them. I hate to remove the labels on the bottom to get to the screws. Is there a way to do it without damaging them? The console has never been opened and from what I understand rarely played.
  13. I finally got around to removing the clock cap v1.2 board, though i would completely strip it down as it was half way in bits anyway, and give it a good clean out. Washed the plastics etc cleaned motherboard, fan, heatsink (Still need to apply new thermal paste) popped her back together after the plastics had dried and to my amasement it works. The cap was fine to be honest, no sign of any problems at all. I was quite supprised how clean it was to be honest, just a light bit of dust on the motherboard. Thanks allf or looking.
  14. HERE IS AN XBOX MODDERS FAVORITE CAP NOT TO WEAR. THANK YOU, I'LL JUST LOG OUT NOW.

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