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About Me

  1. Interested in trying to find a protect button any help would really be appreciated
  2. First press of the power button turns power on for about one second. As soon as it starts to spin down if I press the power button again it boots normally. Any ideas what could be wrong and what I should try to do to fix it? Thanks!
  3. Greetings all! First time posting anything but have gathered a lot of great tips and fixes from this forum for a few years now. This problem has me stumped though. Here’s the situation: The xbox boots fine to the ms dash. I can access the hdd, copy saves to memory unit (or usb via adapter), browse settings, etc. The eject button on the dvd player just flashes green. There’s no disc in the drive, it doesn’t make any horrible noises, it won’t open, and there’s nothing impeding it from opening. I took it apart, removed a lot of dust et al, cleaned the laser, checked to see that the manual eject via the release button worked, double checked the tray side rails, etc. Everything looked normal. Reassembled and had the same problem listed above. I put in a known good drive and that remedied the non stop green light flashing so I thought I’d figured out the issue. I go to test a disc and the known good drive starts to not eject or close intermittently. Additionally it won’t do anything with the disc. If I put a few known good and un scratched games it the drive just flashes green forever. It never gives a dirty disc type error or anything and again this is a drive I know works (tested it right before I pulled it out and put it for test in the current Xbox). I’m stumped. I thought about changing out power and ide just to see. Swapped out two known good AV cables just for grins. No effect. Nothing on the MB looks bulging and I can’t see and trace rot,etc on the top at least. Any ideas? Thank you, MaGee
  4. I think this is just a "replace the power supply" issue (DPSN-96DP), but I'd appreciate anyone's insight if they have advice: (Video of issue) https://imgur.com/INZWEUK Summary -- push power, no LED ring lights, X3 mod chip front indicator panel briefly lights up, then turns off. Eject button has same result. Case fan briefly twitches when power/eject is pressed. Continuously holding the power button 'on' keeps the lights on the X3 front panel lit, and the hard drive can be heard spinning up, but then nothing appears and it powers back off after release. Removed the motherboard, examined the traces to see if there was any rot -- looks really, really clean, nothing was visible after several minutes of inspecting. (Shot of a section of board) https://imgur.com/HIuVLGm CPU capacitors look a little sussy and puffed, I should replace, but nothing leaking onto the board. Clock capacitor looks good, too, but I think I should replace that as well. (CPU caps) https://imgur.com/NR7H58m (Clock cap) https://imgur.com/pFDgFPA Probably will get capacitors from Console5, I have enjoyed ordering from them before. Should I just replace the power supply? Is that what this issue looks like? https://imgur.com/FVbfgB6 (Delta power supply) Thanks anyone that feels like replying! This is my daily driver, I'd like to have it back!
  5. Is there a carbon pad to buy - alternative that could be DIY? Because cleaning wont help it. Only fix is to replace worn conductive sticker. So i removed whole sticker, cut not worn parts and added other 4 good from scrap slimline controller, and it works all buttons 255 with no problems. In the picture you can see how botched it looks, but it works swell. Anyone with conductive paint willing to test by painting rubber membrane itself.
  6. I've been having this same issue with several SSDs on this v1.6 but not with any HDD I've tried. When I boot the Xbox, the Microsoft logo appears and then it black screens until I press the eject button, then it will load the dashboard. I can tell the dashboard isn't loading at all until eject is pressed since the front LEDs don't change color (they're set to orange). I've tested with 2 SSDs of different models (both from TeamGroup), 2 Startech adapters, and 2 UATA cables with the same results. The console boots fine with video when I start it up with just a stock dashboard on the C partition. Things I've tried to resolve this: - Starting with a stock dashboard on C, copying Rocky5's XBHDM installer on there, and softmodding that way (black screens on first boot without even installing the softmod) - Directly copying the C and E partitions from a working softmodded HDD - Using the Phoenix BIOS Loader and Cerbios - Switching video mode between normal, widescreen, letterbox - Disabling 480p/720p/1080i - Switching video region between PAL and NTSC - Using both component and composite cables - Using several different disc drives I'm running out of ideas, this issue seems pretty weird to me since the same files work on an HDD and the SSD loads a dashboard just fine after the eject/soft-reboot. If anyone has any ideas, I'm all ears.
  7. Hello all! A few months back a got my first OG Xbox, but the DVD drive was broken. I ended up buying a second Xbox for parts with a working drive and swapped them out (I ended up getting lucky, it was a Samsung drive). So a couple days ago I pulled out my spare Xbox and found the only problem with it was the power button not turning the console on/off. The console would power on when plugged in, which looking into this online told me its a common problem. So I ended borrowing the working drive and softmodding it. Everything was going perfectly until I was playing some snes9x and the console was smoking! Turns out the clock capicitor was leaking on the motherboard and melting. I knew about the clock capicitor issues, but stupid me thought I'd just do it later. So I cleaned up the mess and removed the capicitor, but it left some irreversible damage. Now the console will boot up and work fine for 5 minutes before suddenly turning off. I inspected the motherboard and noticed it had some corrosion on the "A Line" (Source: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.ogxbox.com/forums/index.php%3F/topic/29-how-to-fix-trace-corrosion/&ved=2ahUKEwjl4szT1bn7AhXbjokEHQddBoEQFnoECA4QAQ&usg=AOvVaw1PMDAuq47ME_GX_0VJ58Ll). I'm not sure if the clock capicitor melt down has something to do with this new issue (most likely do does) or if the corrosion has gotten worse from the whole incident. I'm posting pictures below. I think the best method moving forward would be to try and solder in a wire workaround (From source above). I need some advice, whats the best move moving forward? I want to save this Xbox if I can.
  8. Hello all i have a hard modded Xbox with 2 bios banks 1 = IND _Bios 2 = CerBIOs both have the trigger + trigger back & black reset combo to exit to dash but CerBIOs has the extra trigger + trigger back + D Pad up turn off function to shutdown quickly how can I add this function to my IND_Bios? it would be useful just to use the 2 combinations to safely shut down my unit I don’t really want to break my setup but I apologise if this question is futile with a simple Dash Loader app I know nothing about please can you instruct my next options
  9. Hi, just diving into PCB hacks for an arcade build and found an old Big Ben controller. Problem: X-button doesnt work but when i press right trigger x-button is pressed also. cant see any short. could that be a leaking issue or anything else? is it worth the repair?
  10. chimp clones to new HDD with out problems but i get error 16 when i put in the new drive after cloning. i tried the 'fix error 16' button in chimp, it said it was good but when i put back in the new HDD i still get Error 16. The stock 10GB HDD i got with the xbox still works if i connect it. i then tired booting the xbox with the 10GB HDD then turning off the xbox and putting in the new HDD but then i got error 13. plz help i already spent like 70$$ on this shit. my xbox is soft modded i removed the clock capacitor i have a compatible HDD, 40-pin/80-wire IDE cables, a working SATA to IDE converter Thank you
  11. Due to some modification that previous owner made, when I turn on the Xbox it's working fine, but the circle is red,but there is no error at all. Its really annoying, I would like to change it back to the original green. Also, when I boot up the xbox the Xbox logo is blue instead of green. I would like to restore this too. Do I have to flash a new bios, or it can be done by only modifying a couple files? Before I reformated the HDD on the title screen there was a "Slayers 2.7" text, so I guess they made all this with that, I mean I dont know what is this Slayers stuff, but it maybe have to do with something with this case.
  12. Xbox original controller modded communicator shell with power button and USB port.... This requires modifications to be done to the console for this to function with the power button. USB port works as is. make sure you Google what this is before you ask me any questions. $20 USA Shipped. Cash App or PayPal goods and services only
  13. Looking to purchase power button for og Xbox. Would like power button with blue LEDs. If anyone has one available please message me. Thanks
  14. I recently bought a few faulty Xboxes yesterday and I want to try sort out this 1.1 which FRAGs. When I press eject it will often not open the disc tray, sometimes it will open quarter or half way or not close when it does open. I've tried 3 disc drives and they all have the same issue indicating a motherboard or possibly daughterboard problem. I have removed the clock capacitor which was only starting to leak. I've cleaned up what little leakage there was. Any ideas?
  15. My LE Green Xbox which is very little used and has been kept in practically retail state (never opened) completely out of the blue decided to start itself the moment I turn on the main's power. Its been connected to the same power block as my most used Xboxes for years so when either are on it will have been getting some power to the clock cap but TBH I can't remember when it was last actually used; it has to be at least a month ago. Then this. It won't turn off using the Xbox power button but will turn off using the UnleashX menu option > Shutdown but then immediately powers up again. Its working perfectly otherwise. Clearly something has happened, probably partly due to the hot weather but what? My theory is that I made a big mistake keeping it plugged in so that when the other Xboxes were being used its clock cap was indeed being charged. Despite it not being used regularly that has led to its premature ageing and leaking, doing some sort of damage. I suspect I'll only know if that is correct by cracking open the case which I specifically did not and still do not want to do. So if the cause could be something else which doesn't required me to take its virginity advice would be appreciated.
  16. Searched a good bit on the general symptoms of power button failure for Xbox original but most lead back to trace corrosion issues. The case here is a very small person got access to my original xbox and spent an unknown amount of time mashing the power button. The next time I went to turn her on, the power button flashed for a brief second and hard drive spun as well but then died. A few more attempts and now nothing happens. The switch still clicks audibly for what thats worth but no sounds that power is getting to anything and no light. I've opened it up to start looking at possible source of damage but have not come up with anything. Looking for any suggestions or guidance on where and what to probe. Thanks.
  17. I have an 1.6 Xbox with aladdin Chip and now I can't reboot the console using the combination both triggers and back + Start. It used to work before. I don't know what happened. I use Unleashed as default dash and XBMC4GAMERS as an app. Both doesn't work Thanks
  18. Greetings everyone. Here's the situation: both my xboxes' dvd drives died. One is a thomson which receives power,but won't read the disks; then there's the philips one which doesn't even get recognized. I have one of those lg drives for pc that can be adapted to work as a new xbox dvd drive, but i miss the yellow power cable to attach it to the mobo. So my idea was to get it from the power/eject buttons. Does anybody have already attempted this and some tips?Is it even possible?(i cannot get ahold of a newcable for experimenting for cheap,so imstuck with this). My idea was to build like a couple of buttons to short the pins on the connectors on the motherboard in order to prompt the power/eject switches(don'tcare about leds, i only care of a good functioning xbox). Thanks in advance.
  19. My OG XBOX is a version 1.4 and has been TSOP modded and is running INDBIOS 5003 with F & G support. I am using Rocky5's ISO BIOS patcher as the first thing that runs at bootup (DASH1 in IND0BIOS.CFG) to get ISO loading working and that is fine (I used to run UnleashX and needed it, not sure I still need it with XBMC4Gamers but assumed so since I'm using INDBIOS 5003). I assembled the patcher.xbe (named it "XISO Loader.xbe") with it pointing to the dashloader.xbe at C:\DashLoader (renamed from C:\evoxdash.xbe) which, in turn, defaults to my XBMC4Gamers default.xbe at E:\XBMC4Gamers\ directory. I edited the "A" .cfg that resides within the C:\dashloader directory to point to the Enigmah PAL/NTSC app in my E:\Apps\ directory in case I want to switch video modes. All of that works great. I can boot to XBMC4Gamers by default or hold "A" and get to the Enigmah video switcher to select PAL or NTSC. Fantastic stuff! But, now, I am trying to get the dashloader configurator GUI to work for configuring the dashloader button settings and I can't get it to work. I installed the dashboard configurator from the URLDowloader within XBMC4Gamers into my E:\Apps\ directory and that seems to work fine as I am able to run the configurator which loads the settings from somewhere and will save settings somewhere BUT it does NOT really impact the A,B,X,Y, etc. .cfg files within the C:\cashloader\ directory. What am I missing? Thanks in advance for any assistance.
  20. My XBOX turns on and works but the green light around the eject button does not come on. The system is a 1.0 version and has been successfully Tsoped. A red light comes on around the eject button when booting with the Helen 2017 disk, but I don’t ever get a green light under normal operation. Any idea what would cause this or how I can fix it? Thanks.
  21. I have an xbox 1.4 I just TSOPed. For some reason the press the power button and nothing happens but if I press the eject button it turns On and Off. If I press it 5x it will stay On. I swapped power/eject boards but same issues. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
  22. the buttons on one of my controller are starting to take a lot of pressure to activate. the xbox buttons are not normal controller buttons with removable pads like most controllers have. so how do i fix it?
  23. Hard drive activity on the eject button led. To do that mod you don’t need an LED since we make use of the LED on the eject botton which give us a nice and clean look. Each time the hard drive read or write data, the orange (or “amber” if you prefer) led lights up and that will make you happy (Note: This just works for a man, not woman!). So what do we need: Wire. 30 AWG works for me. 10K resistor. Small piece heat shrink. Solder, Iron, Flux, IPA. Super duper glue or your hot glue gun. Optional : A beer a cup of coffee or tee. At this time you can choose the last time by your self until the tutorial is done! Ok, lets start by tear down your x-box like you normaly do and put the mainboard with the bottom side up in front you. The back ports should be facing upwards. When you have an v1.0 to v1.4 you should search for the resistor R3V2 (The v1.5 unicorne should have it one the same place, I guess). For v1.6 or v1.6b search for the resistor R3V3. (Yap, they are both on the same spot and do the same but M$ choose to lable those differently.) So when you have found the resistor, solder one end of the wire to the left side of the resistor. Now that this is done aim for the IDE connector. Measure how much wire you need to get to the IDE pin shown in the Picture (Don`t forget the length of your resistor.). It’s the first pin on the left side on top of the connector. Now solder your 10K resitor to the other end of the wire and put some heat shrink on it. Last but not least solder the end of the resitor to the IDE pin. Now it’ s time to put back together your x-box and test your new mod, of which, you can be unbelievably proud of– in case you didn't screw it up somewhere… like me on the 1.6 because I wasn’t aware that MS choose to lable the resistors wrong (remember?). But thats there fault and not mine so let us blame them for that! Still reading? Why? You have reached the end of, what ever you wanna call it, and can now make your own decisions again! (Except you have a wife/girlfriend, then you’re totally screwed cuz it’s on her to make decisions for you!). For real. I hope you had fun with this and you enjoy your new little mod. I’m out. PS. You found typos or i miss spelled something? See, you got that on top without a tip!
  24. I apologize if this has been covered but I came up empty when searching. So I finally powered on my OG Xbox with X3CE and X3CP after many years. The bios was old (3294) so figured I would update. Flashed 5035 and everything is working, however for some reason when booting with the white button pressed Config Live doesn't load. Any ideas?
  25. Hi all, I’ve just noticed that the blue leds are not lighting up on my X3 control panel bios bank switch buttons. They should light up blue when pressed in (on). Anyone come across this before? Know how I can fix it?? Ill take it apart and see if theres a lose cable cable or similar but that won’t be for a few days....

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Board startup date: April 23, 2017 12:45:48
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